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  1. #26
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    I bought my 785s on eBay so I just put goodridge lines on. So far so good. You need the 108 fitting kit. You also still have to use the stock bolt that bolts the banjo to the caliper. Works fine, no leaks and good feel at the lever. Chain reaction has the best price.

  2. #27
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    I left mine at shop today and they are going to try and get me a new pair. If not it will be new updated lines and pads. I am selling them once I get them back. Bought another pair in the meantime as I cant wait to get them fixed. Lemme know if anyone interested in them. Have extra pads and oil and bleed funnel not used.
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  3. #28
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    Yep

    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Has anyone tried retrofitting the new XT/XTR's with braided lines?
    Yep, that's a great question. I did a quick search and didn't find anyone making them. If you know of anyone who makes them let me know. That would be cool. Jagwire is probably the next best thing.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by GL1 View Post
    Yep, that's a great question. I did a quick search and didn't find anyone making them. If you know of anyone who makes them let me know. That would be cool. Jagwire is probably the next best thing.
    If the banjo bolts and fittings are the same as previous model years (which I realize they may not be since the redesign), Goodridge does have kits. If you could figure out which banjo fitting and compression washers are needed, you could probably get one to fit.

    I'd just wait a touch longer . . . can't be long before goodridge has something readily available. They may already to be honest.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I bought my 785s on eBay so I just put goodridge lines on. So far so good. You need the 108 fitting kit. You also still have to use the stock bolt that bolts the banjo to the caliper. Works fine, no leaks and good feel at the lever. Chain reaction has the best price.
    Thanks for the info! So I see the goodridge lines but I'm confused. It looks to me like the Hose Kit 107 is what you need but that also doesn't look like braided cables. The kit 108 you refer to is just the fittings and says it's for Saint.

    Also, this thread XT M785 brakes & goodridge hoses Singletrack Forum seems to indicate it's kit 107 for the new generation XT's but let me know if you know before I buy anything.

  6. #31
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    I put a 108 kit on my trailbike last week and on my dh this week (785s on both). Look at the fittings in both kits. The 107 has banjo's for both ends. 108 is the right kit. All goodridge are braided. The ones you saw are probably black, which don't really show the braid.




    Last edited by jimarin; 05-18-2012 at 06:35 PM.

  7. #32
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    My LBS got just hoses for me that they installed on Friday. I wasn't happy with just lines and felt that the pads should be replaced because of contamination (rotors should be fine). I called Shimano myself, and other than no toll free number and being on hold forever, they are sending the LBS replacement pads for me no questions asked..that easy! Don't know why that couldn't have happened when the call was made for hoses.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMac View Post
    My LBS got just hoses for me that they installed on Friday. I wasn't happy with just lines and felt that the pads should be replaced because of contamination (rotors should be fine). I called Shimano myself, and other than no toll free number and being on hold forever, they are sending the LBS replacement pads for me no questions asked..that easy! Don't know why that couldn't have happened when the call was made for hoses.
    Yeah, pads for sure. I am getting those. I was mistaken on the rotor. I am not getting a rotor and I'm okay with that.

    jimarin, thanks for the info on the goodridge. I am looking into those. Kit 108 then for sure! Thanks!

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I replaced my front and rear leaking shimano hose with Jagwire hyflow and has been leak free since. I didn't want to try shimano hose again because I had heard of people getting replacment shimano hose and have it leak again. Heres a picture of the jagwire hyflow setup.

    Ordered the Hyflows with a new lever for the rear brake and new pads (without fins this time). Hopefully everything will get back to normal as I'm tired of the lack of power.
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
    I'm having a lot of the same symptoms with a rear XT brake. It has been squealing and has a loss of power. After storing the bike upside down for a few days, the lever would bottom out on the handlebars, but then pumped back up after many pumps. I'll have to take a closer look at the banjo fitting and see if the there is leakage there.

    Has anyone called Shimano directly instead of working through a dealer?
    If you did the "bleed free line shortening" the levers will likely go to the bars after hanging the bike upside down. Mine did.

  11. #36
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    what are the item i need to get if i would like to change the m785 front brake host? any recommendation?

  12. #37
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    Thank you for posting this. I have had my brakes for a couple of months and thought they were the greatest brakes ever. But all of a sudden the rear started to howl, and the front lost it's great power and modulation. Looking at the rotor shows a darker substance on both the front and rear, and I have had problems with both levers pulling to the bars after longer downhills. I'm so glad to hear that this is a simple fix, and especially one that Shimano will pay for, good on you Shimano. And luckily for me, I just ordered a new set for my wife, so looks like I will use those while I wait for my warranty returns.

    But what is best to clean the rotors, as they definitely have a little bit of a film on them?

  13. #38
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    just wipe them down with isopropyl alcohol.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GL1 View Post
    I'm still waiting for my parts from Shimano...hopefully next week.

    In the mean time, I put super glue around the banjo nut...seems to help. Temporary fix.

    See pic...
    Glad I found this thread, because my front line started leaking at the end of the crimp to the banjo nut, exactly where circled in the above picture. I've had them since mid-September and absolutely love the brakes. Great performance for the price, too bad there is this little quality issue. But it's good to know there is a fix since mine didn't work so well on today's ride with oil on the pads.....

  15. #40
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    Glad you found the thread. Let us know if your LBS will help on the warranty. They should. As you've seen from the the thread the pads are toast once they get mineral oil on them. So a decent LBS warranty should include a new line with banjo nut, bleed, and pads. Then clean the rotor with 90% alcohol really good. Since my warranty, zero issues and that was almost a year and 60 rides ago. Still the best brakes I've ever owned!

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    If you did the "bleed free line shortening" the levers will likely go to the bars after hanging the bike upside down. Mine did.
    This isn't a problem with the brakes at all, or at least it's not related to the OP's topic of leaking XTs at the caliper end.

    If your master cylinder has air in in, when the bike is turned upside down, the air being lighter than the mineral oil rises to the top, which ends up in the caliper. That's why the levers go all the way to the bar, because the levers when squeezed are pushing air into the caliper...not oil. Unsurprisingly, turning the bike back to normal will again cause the air to move upwards, but back into the MC, and it's just a matter of time before the levers become firm again.

    To avoid this, ensure that there is no air in the MC i.e. fill it right to the top. Then it won't matter if your bike is upright, sideways or upside down, as no air will ever get into the caliper.
    Current Stable: 2011 Niner EMD, 2011 Vassago Jabba

  17. #42
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    Dumb question here:
    If your (metallic) pads are contaminated w/ oil, can't you just spray them down w/ disc brake cleaner or soak them in isopropyl alcohol to break up the oil? Hell, worst comes to worst, when you pull them out of the alcohol bath, set them on fire for a few seconds to burn off the oil/alcohol, then smother w/ a water dunk? Wouldn't this not work, instead of shelling out for another set of pads?
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  18. #43
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    Good luck with that...try it out and let us know.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Dumb question here:
    If your (metallic) pads are contaminated w/ oil, can't you just spray them down w/ disc brake cleaner or soak them in isopropyl alcohol to break up the oil? Hell, worst comes to worst, when you pull them out of the alcohol bath, set them on fire for a few seconds to burn off the oil/alcohol, then smother w/ a water dunk? Wouldn't this not work, instead of shelling out for another set of pads?
    Of course they can be salvaged. 20s in a natural gas flame takes care of the contamination very well. I ride with the original pads after having replaced the leaking BH90 with BH59 and XTR banjo a couple hundreds miles ago.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMac View Post
    The same thing happened to me. Both front and rear were leaking where the hose went into the fitting. My LBS quick fix was to heat up the pads, scuff the rotors and crazy glue the line at the leek to keep them from seeping and saturating the pads again. Here is my problem...they tell me Shimano refuses to believe there is a problem with the brakes. So now I have $400 worth of brakes that make noise, dont stop worth a damn and need hoses and pads replaced. Its been a week on Friday, gonna call them tomorrow and see whats up. If not, then Shimano gets the call from me.
    I have had this problem as well.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Dumb question here:
    If your (metallic) pads are contaminated w/ oil, can't you just spray them down w/ disc brake cleaner or soak them in isopropyl alcohol to break up the oil? Hell, worst comes to worst, when you pull them out of the alcohol bath, set them on fire for a few seconds to burn off the oil/alcohol, then smother w/ a water dunk? Wouldn't this not work, instead of shelling out for another set of pads?
    They just replaced mine with the warranty but at near $50 a pair it would be worth a try to salvage them.

  22. #47
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    The reason I ask is I just got my mitz on a set of the 988s for a pretty good deal and was researching these for Goodridge hose replacement (answered) before I pay the guy, and saw all the issues that you guys are having, specifically w/ contaminated pads. I've been an Avid guy since moving from Hayes and the resolution for dealing w/ DOT contaminated pads is a simple rinse w/ water. Mineral oil being different than DOT, I'd imagine you can just use a different rinse fluid, or in the worst case, oxidize the oil by heat (reads as burning) so it can be rinse w/ water...
    Anyway, the other issue was bleeding, ala Avid style, by degassing the fluid. Top to bottom method is fine and all, but doesn't do much for dissolved gases already in the fluid. Here, I think Avid has DEF go their act together. So, has anyone managed to get a proper seal at the caliper end to pull a vacuum and degas the fluid in the system? I saw a vid of some guy using an olive threaded on the tubing, then pushed up against the bleeder nipple once the tubing is attached to get a solid connex. Do any of you know if this creates the proper seal to pull negative pressure via a syringe?
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  23. #48
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    I've burned metallic pads with good results. I just tried a set of resin pads and
    would say that was a failure. Oh well, I 'll just buy metallic from now on.

    @Pau11y - I use the push pull method like you would with Avid brakes and it works fine.
    I bought the Avid bleed kit and gave the DOT to a buddy with Avid brakes. The brass threaded
    end thingy fits perfectly into the reservoir on the levers and I just push the plastic tubing over the bleed nipple on the caliper. It work perfectly.

    I did discover that if you overfill the reservoir you will get oil weeping from under the cover for awhile.
    I was worried that it was leaking, but its just the oil that spilled between the cap and the actual reservoir.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    I've burned metallic pads with good results. I just tried a set of resin pads and
    would say that was a failure. Oh well, I 'll just buy metallic from now on.

    @Pau11y - I use the push pull method like you would with Avid brakes and it works fine.
    I bought the Avid bleed kit and gave the DOT to a buddy with Avid brakes. The brass threaded
    end thingy fits perfectly into the reservoir on the levers and I just push the plastic tubing over the bleed nipple on the caliper. It work perfectly.

    I did discover that if you overfill the reservoir you will get oil weeping from under the cover for awhile.
    I was worried that it was leaking, but its just the oil that spilled between the cap and the actual reservoir.
    Hehehe... yeah, I didn't think the resin pads would be a good candidate to be set on fire
    Maybe just a alcohol bath w/ those...?

    And, thanks for the clue on using the Avid bleed method and that the tools work I'm kinda invested in the Avid tools...pro bleed kit...so it's nice to know I can reuse
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  25. #50
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    I have the same problem!

    Who did you contact? You LBS or Shimano directly? If Shimano, a phone number would be awesome.
    I ride a bike, therefore I am!

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