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  1. #1
    Lurking Homer
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    New question here. XT Lever adjustment blocks?

    How do the adjustment blocks work? It looked to me like you got more leverage with them in than out. I pulled out all of them and I do not think I can tell a difference. Any info on those little guys?

    Thanks,
    L-Dogg

  2. #2
    Do It Yourself
    Reputation: Homebrew's Avatar
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    Trash them. They put them in there initially when the V-brake first came out because people were used to grabbing a hand full o'brake to stop with cantis. The combination of max leverage and bad braking habits will throw you over the bars. Ah yes, I remember quite vividly trying out my first nice mtb that came with Avid Vs...road rash in the parking lot...it was ugly. Anyway, the blocks prevent the novice rider from setting the leverage too high. With a bit of common sense you'll be fine.

  3. #3
    Lurking Homer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew
    Trash them. They put them in there initially when the V-brake first came out because people were used to grabbing a hand full o'brake to stop with cantis. The combination of max leverage and bad braking habits will throw you over the bars. Ah yes, I remember quite vividly trying out my first nice mtb that came with Avid Vs...road rash in the parking lot...it was ugly. Anyway, the blocks prevent the novice rider from setting the leverage too high. With a bit of common sense you'll be fine.
    I am not worried about it as I have been riding without them for two months. Do they really adjust the leverage. I see how the speed dials would because the cable starts in a different spot. The XT ones have a roller that slides down the slot if the blocks are removed. I imagine this would do little to change the leverage ratio? Thanks for your input

  4. #4
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    Reputation: frank n. beans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L-Dogg
    I am not worried about it as I have been riding without them for two months. Do they really adjust the leverage. I see how the speed dials would because the cable starts in a different spot. The XT ones have a roller that slides down the slot if the blocks are removed. I imagine this would do little to change the leverage ratio? Thanks for your input
    Removing them will make a noticable difference, basically the same thing as Avid's Speed Dial thingy.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank n. beans
    Removing them will make a noticable difference, basically the same thing as Avid's Speed Dial thingy.
    argh- no one is answering questions about rim brakes on this board anymore. actually, shimano's setup is substantially different than avid's. avid's system is designed to adjust the leverage of the brake, but once you set the leverage it stays put until you change it again.
    the shimano system, on the other hand has varying leverage as you are actually pulling the lever. the brake lever starts off having low leverage, meaning the lever pulls lots of cable to get the pad to the rim. then, when the pads do touch the rim, the leverage increases. this way, you get to set your pads far from the rim, have a brake that isn't too mushy, and have lots of power.
    sounds great, right? well, yes, but in my experience, and in the experience of not a few others, the slot for the roller in the xt lever handle tends to develop a notch at the very top. this means that when you start to pull the lever, the roller gets snagged on the notch, then as you pull harder, the roller finally jumps all the way from the top of the notch to the very bottom. and when the roller is at the bottom of the notch, you have lots of power. so you start off with no power and then suddenly have a lot.
    this doesn't happen to everybody, but like i said, i know of others on this very board who had the same problem, as well as others i know personally.
    another solution is the lx or sram levers, both of which use a mechanism that has the same effect, but only by using a small plastic wedge- no moving parts. the catch here is that both the sram and lx levers are a little flexy.
    no free lunch.
    tim

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by uphiller
    sounds great, right? well, yes, but in my experience, and in the experience of not a few others, the slot for the roller in the xt lever handle tends to develop a notch at the very top. this means that when you start to pull the lever, the roller gets snagged on the notch, then as you pull harder, the roller finally jumps all the way from the top of the notch to the very bottom. and when the roller is at the bottom of the notch, you have lots of power. so you start off with no power and then suddenly have a lot.
    this doesn't happen to everybody, but like i said, i know of others on this very board who had the same problem, as well as others i know personally.
    another solution is the lx or sram levers, both of which use a mechanism that has the same effect, but only by using a small plastic wedge- no moving parts. the catch here is that both the sram and lx levers are a little flexy.
    no free lunch.
    tim

    I ran XTR levers for a while with Avid Mechanical disc brakes, and liked the feel of them with the "least pull" setting. However, that clicking sound (caused by the roller) was irritating. I really dislike noisy brake levers for any reason. On top of that, I had no need for a variable rate of cable pull... I wanted the "least pull" setting all the time!

    I was able to jam a really small zip tie into the roller slot area which prevented the rolled from moving, and kept it in the "least pull" setting without any detrimental effects. If you are having trouble with a notch in your XT/ XTR levers, and do not mind missing out on the variable pull mechanism, this might be worth a shot.


  7. #7
    Lurking Homer
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank n. beans
    I ran XTR levers for a while with Avid Mechanical disc brakes, and liked the feel of them with the "least pull" setting. However, that clicking sound (caused by the roller) was irritating. I really dislike noisy brake levers for any reason. On top of that, I had no need for a variable rate of cable pull... I wanted the "least pull" setting all the time!

    I was able to jam a really small zip tie into the roller slot area which prevented the rolled from moving, and kept it in the "least pull" setting without any detrimental effects. If you are having trouble with a notch in your XT/ XTR levers, and do not mind missing out on the variable pull mechanism, this might be worth a shot.

    Brilliant Idea! I will try it tonight when I get home. Thank you!

  8. #8
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    I did a similar thing with my XT levers, but no zip tie. I removed both leverage blocks from each lever. Then, I took one of the left-side leverage blocks and screwed it into the right side lever. I installed the left block into the middle (lower of the two) hole on the right lever.

    I did the opposite to the other lever. (right lever gets one of the left leverage blocks in the middle hole).

    This process 'holds' the roller at the bottom all of the time. The difference in power and feel is great!

    Does this make any sense?

    -Ryan
    I stopped driving my bike into my garage - I'm now protected with Roof Rack Ranger app for my iPhone.

  9. #9
    Lurking Homer
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    Thanks for the help

    Thanks for the great ideas guys. I just slapped some zip ties in there and we will see what they do in the morning. If they seem to have trouble I will try the reverse adjustment blocks.
    Thanks again for the input/.

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