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  1. #1
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    XT brake Squeak: no motion

    I just brought home a Trance X0 29er and noticed that the front brake squeaks when pulling it in with no motion of the wheel. Is this something normal or should I dig in?

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  2. #2
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    I think I figured it out, see pic below:

    Brake pad is only biting very little, Hmm should check the mounting. And should I be getting a new pad on my one day old bike with only 3000 feet or riding?



    Look at the spacers? Too many?


    Not much bite into the disc



    rear does not have any spacers:


    and the rear has a lot more bite:

  3. #3
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    Yes, there should be no spacers used.. id take them off and mount the caliper directly to the adaptor..spin the tire and make sure the rotor isn't rubbing the caliper , and where it contacts the rotor and go from there..for my bike,i had to add a small thin washer to pull my caliper away from my rotor---but once dialed- the pads hit perfectly..

  4. #4
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    Ah!!!!!

    The adapter is on upside down! The larger spacer end goes up, it even has an arrow for orientation.


    I consider this to be a pretty bad mistake, this is the brakes we are talking about. And then the person put extra washers to space it, not good. Does the bike store put on the brake or Giant?

  5. #5
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    Who knows who put it on--as least you now have it sorted and can make sure it's on correctly ...if it was my me, id take the pads into the bike shop-tell them what happened and ask them for a new set of pads on the house..make sure they are the same type of pads that came with the brakes..some xt's come with resin pads and some(like my xt) come with the metallic pads..you'll want the pads to be the same so they are balanced in feel..

  6. #6
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    I still have a little more playing to do, as I am getting a little rubbing from the edge of the calipher (rotor is not centered). I need to take a look at the directions for mounting. I thought you have the bolts loose and apply gently pressure to the brake then tighten but that is resulting in rubbing on the edge.

    I am not sure about the directions to apply pressure as it seems like only one side of the piston pushes out and the other is fixed? I made the rotor centered by eye but I still hear rubbing maybe just rotor on pad which would be OK.

    I did just use some sandpaper on a flat surface to get rid of the berm on the pad, the shop is like 45 minutes away and not worth the trip for new ones.

    Oh one more note the white spacers do belong in the system just up against the head of the bolt not as something to move caliper further out but to allow for mounting movement.
    Last edited by j__h; 10-13-2012 at 02:32 AM.

  7. #7
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    -Best way i found is to just adjust them by eyesight..turn the bike over so you can see the pads and rotor well-- lightly loosen the bolts so they are holding the caliper in place but you can move it slightly... get one side aligned, then tighten the bolt a bit..then align the other side and tighten that side a bit..this should be pretty close.. spin the tire-- any rub? If not then tighten the bolts up more--of there is some rubbing--loosen and readjust...you'll get it pretty quickly..

    As for the spacers== they come with the adaptor package but i never use them.. your rear is how i have mine..

    Also, make sure your rotor is straight..they often times come slightly out of round out of the package,,and can drive ya nuts trying to align the rotor without any rub..
    Last edited by SB Trails; 10-13-2012 at 02:42 AM.

  8. #8
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    Yeah the rotor seems straight, the rubbing I hear is consistent and the rotor does not look to wobble or move from center of the caliper when spinning. It just seems like it is rubbing on the pad now that I have set the rotor to center by eye.

  9. #9
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    Dude, take the bike back to the shop you got it from and VERY politely ask them what hack assembled it, cause they don't have a fvcking clue what they're doing. They owe you new pads and they should deal with installing and adjusting the brakes, but honestly after seeing that I wouldn't trust them, maybe look for another Giant dealer with more competent staff. Go visit the Park Tool Co. Park Tool Co. web site and look up installing and aligning disc brakes.
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    I went to a local shop and picked up some new pads, the price ($18) is cheaper than the gas for me to get back to the giant dealer.

    Centering rotor by squeezing pads resulted in rubbing, you can look at the pads and see that there was no clearance on one side. I then did it by sight until I had clearance on both sides. There was some very minimal rubbing at one point in the rotation from a very slightly off true rotor. I bent it a little with my hand and a cloth and it is almost entirely gone, I am happy with the amount it is so little and not worth worrying about.

    The last thing I am wondering is it seems that the brakes have very little clearance on either side when you release the lever, thus making it difficult to have them not rub. Is this tunable or is it a set characteristic?

  11. #11
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    There are Reach and Pad contact adjustments AFAIK, but no personal experience with the actual brakes, so not sure how great they work, but from reports 'sposed to work good and easy to adjust. Do a search on here, fairly sure that it's been covered and also check YouTube, did a rough search, didn't watch any, but give these a shot, see if they help any https://www.google.com/search?q=adju...w=1461&bih=953
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  12. #12
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    I would go over that bike with a fine tooth comb. Whoever assembled that bike hasn't a clue.... You could get hurt. Here's a pic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XT brake Squeak: no motion-036.jpg  

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  13. #13
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    Yup, that is how I have it now.

  14. #14
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    The bike shop appears to have used some CPS washers from an Avid brake, not exactly needed with XT brakes. The grey domed washers are likely to be causing the issues with the caliper not aligning correctly. It also looks like they used those washers as they have used too long a bolt for attaching your caliper to the brake mount. I'd ask the LBS for the correct bolts and flat washers from Shimano, which will probably solve the alignment issue.
    I'd agree with the other posters here in that your LBS are a bunch of clowns for assembling the brake like that.
    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  15. #15
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    I think that how I have it (and how natzx7 has it in pic) is correct.

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830772089.pdf

    lower left in the document with adapter.

  16. #16
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    Here is how the brakes should look - as you can see, there is just a flat washer under each bolt head, nothing else like what you have mounted on your adaptor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XT brake Squeak: no motion-csc_0311-large-.jpg  

    XT brake Squeak: no motion-csc_0310-large-.jpg  

    I don't crash, I just have slightly uncontrolled dismounts!

  17. #17
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    Hmm, I still think I am right. But if you prove me wrong I will be grateful and fix my setup.

    What do you think of this one?

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830667774.PDF

  18. #18
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    What size rotor do you have on the front? It looks like you have a post mount fork. With a 160mm rotor, you shouldn't need any adapters afaik.

  19. #19
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    My bike is a Trance x0 29er and has a 180mm up front.


    Trance X 29er 0 (2013) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

  20. #20
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    If you followed that tech doc, you should be good to go. I'd still go back to where you bought the bike to let them know how big an eff up that was.

  21. #21
    DGB
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    As has been said above, if you follow that Shimano doc you're right. That's what I have with my setup for the last few years and I have had zero issues.

    I'd definitely get back onto the shop who sold you this bike and give them a piece of your mind. That's very, very poor for a new bike and potentially very dangerous.

  22. #22
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    As has been reiterated several times, you need to call at least if not better yet go back to the shop and let them know how shoddily your bike was assembled and seriously go over the entire bike and make sure there's no other fvck ups like this.

    All this being said, I know that bikes come slightly disassembled with front brake off when they ship to the shops, so if by chance you happened to be in a rush and told them you could put it together yourself, you've luckily learned a lesson the easy way and were not injured.
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  23. #23
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    Bad shop builds are one of the main reasons I learned how to wrench my own bikes. A few years ago I picked up a bike that had close to a half inch clerance between the top of the big chainring and the derailleur (not the 1-2mm specified for proper shifting).

    It sounds like you got things working, but as others suggested, I would go over the rest of the bike. Or have a mechanic you trust go over it. And politely let the shop you got it from know the condition the bike was in when they sold it to you.

    Honestly, I don't think you should be covering the cost of new pads.
    Last edited by VeloZombie; 10-14-2012 at 10:32 AM. Reason: spelling

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    As has been reiterated several times, you need to call at least if not better yet go back to the shop and let them know how shoddily your bike was assembled and seriously go over the entire bike and make sure there's no other fvck ups like this.

    All this being said, I know that bikes come slightly disassembled with front brake off when they ship to the shops, so if by chance you happened to be in a rush and told them you could put it together yourself, you've luckily learned a lesson the easy way and were not injured.


    I have the shop owners email and I emailed a kindly worded email about it, I did not put it together myself this was how it came from the shop.

    Here is the email I sent yesterday in the morning but nothing back yet:

    Hey XXXX,

    I just wanted to bring something to your attention, I have it fixed now but I think that this is something to look out for in the future.

    I noticed some creaking from the front brake when pulling the lever without the bike in motion. So I took out the pad to see if anything was the matter. I found that the pad had very little bite on the rotor and had dug a groove. I then looked at the mounting and noticed that the adapter for 180mm rotor was on upside down and that the spacers with a radius to allow for motion were placed incorrectly (so that the rotor did not hit the caliper with an upside down adapter).

    attaching some pics and the link is the tech doc for proper assembly.

    Thanks,
    XXXX


    I also agree I should not have to pay but the gas cost to get the the Giant dealer would be more than the cost of the pads.


    I rode it today and the front brake is super sensitive, I need to get used to it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    The bike shop appears to have used some CPS washers from an Avid brake, not exactly needed with XT brakes. The grey domed washers are likely to be causing the issues with the caliper not aligning correctly.
    The XT 785 brakes come with those "CPS" washers as you get another range of movement from them but they can be a hassle when setting up. Although they go on the outside of course. I ditched them for some flat washers, all good.

    Upside down adapter.... For god's sake, it even has a big arrow on it. Sounds like some quality control on bike builds needed in that shop.
    Last edited by Reign2Rider; 10-14-2012 at 08:47 PM.

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