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  1. #1
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    XT brake bleed with Sram bleed kit?

    Is there any way this would work? I've already got the Sram bleed kit but now have shimano XT brakes and would rather not have to buy a new bleed kit, besides the mineral oil obviously.

  2. #2
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    No. Buy the Shimano kit and do it right. its a totally different style of bleed. You could do it with the correct adapters, but you can bleed Shimano without a kit and just mineral oil.
    Heres the kit you want. Its cheap. Do it right.
    Shimano TL-BT03-S Disc Brake Bleed Tool from ModernBike.com

  3. #3
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    I disagree, it's the same thing.

    You can just use an open top syringe vs the funnel.

    -Tom

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    That's what I want to hear!

  5. #5
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    I used the Sram kit to bleed my XTR brakes. It works well. Instead of having a funnel at the master cyl. the fluid just pushes the plunger back in the syringe.

  6. #6
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    Be cautious and flush parts with alcohol 1st. DOT and mineral oil do not play well together and enough will mess up the seals on the brakes. I am just over cautious probably though-have seen brakes that were bleed with the wrong fluid before!
    i own a bikeshop in WV thetruewheelwv.com

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29buzz View Post
    Be cautious and flush parts with alcohol 1st. DOT and mineral oil do not play well together and enough will mess up the seals on the brakes. I am just over cautious probably though-have seen brakes that were bleed with the wrong fluid before!
    I definitely wouldn't say that's being overly cautious. It's always a good idea to make sure all brake bleeding tools are completely clean before bleeding.

  8. #8
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    Completely agree with a very thorough cleaning!

    For the lever syringe, you don't really need the plunger even, just use it as a funnel with an open top

    -Tom

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    leaving the plunger in just keeps from making a mess when you remove the syringe from the master cyl.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29buzz View Post
    Be cautious and flush parts with alcohol 1st. DOT and mineral oil do not play well together and enough will mess up the seals on the brakes. I am just over cautious probably though-have seen brakes that were bleed with the wrong fluid before!
    Absolutely--good advice.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinizer View Post
    Is there any way this would work? I've already got the Sram bleed kit but now have shimano XT brakes and would rather not have to buy a new bleed kit, besides the mineral oil obviously.
    Hey Martinizer,

    Just checking on how this worked out for you. I'm in the same boat with an old Avid Juicy bleed kit. Now I wanna trim my XT brake line & wondering if you have any tips after having done it.

    Thanks in Advance!

  12. #12
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    Do the brake line trim correctly, and you won't have to bleed the XT's. Google it or do a forum search.

    Taken from one of my other posts:

    Bleeding your brakes, especially Shimano's is easy. And yes, you can shorten the brake lines without having to bleed if done carefully. But bleeding this isn't difficult if you induce some air into the system. My steps here are for shortening the brake lines on the XT M-785's, but I don't think there's any significant difference if any.

    When line is opened, air is introduced near the master cylinder. By expanding the brake pucks, we can force bleed any remaining air from cut and reinstalled line up into master cylinder by compressing pucks back into caliper.

    Remove rubber boot and loosen 8mm brake line at each master cylinder.

    Separate brake line from master cylinder and measure for proper length of brake line from caliper to master cylinder. Be careful to allow for unrestricted full front wheel side-to-side movement.

    Mark line for cut and carefully cut with cable cutter. Fluid will come out, so be ready for it.

    Remember…measure twice, cut once.

    After cutting line, you might want to slightly enlarge the opening with an awl to ease insertion of connector insert.

    Slip compressible brass olive over line.

    Place clamping blocks on line and secure with vice or vice grips to stabilize while driving insertion connector in line opening

    Reinsert shortened brake lines back into the appropriate master cylinders and torque to 45 – 60 in. lbs.

    To properly torque, you need an 8mm crows foot and perform the calculation for proper torque.

    I incorporated the calibrated wrist technique.

    Return to calipers and carefully press brake pucks back into calipers until flush with caliper body so that you can re-install brake pads. This will force any air introduced into the line from the line removal back into the master cylinder reservoir thus eliminating the need to bleed the brakes.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by turfnsurf View Post
    Hey Martinizer,

    Just checking on how this worked out for you. I'm in the same boat with an old Avid Juicy bleed kit. Now I wanna trim my XT brake line & wondering if you have any tips after having done it.

    Thanks in Advance!
    Using the old Avid bleed kit worked great. You'll just need something to help prop the lever side syringe up vertically, so it doesn't spill fluid (since you won't use the syringe plunger on this end.) Otherwise just follow the regular shimano bleed procedure.

    BTW I only bled mine bottom up, not top down. Shimanos seem way less finicky about bleeding, so the bottom up bleed was sufficient.

    As far as shortening cables, I also shortened mine and didn't have to do a full bleed. I did, however, just attach the avid syringe (w/out plunger) to the lever bleed port, add a few drops of mineral oil and then pump the lever to release any bubbles you may have picked up from the cable shortening. Then just remove the syringe and reinstall bleed port screw. Done. Worked like a charm.

  14. #14
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    Yepper, bleeding from the bottom up can be the better way to go and can be easier...most of the time. However, there are times when top down can save time and patience.

    When having to replace a puck seal at the caliper, I remove the caliper from mount (not removing brake line) and raise it to a level higher than the master cylinder (perhaps on the bench given enough available brake line). The objective is to keep any induced air isolated to the caliper area. Replace seal or 'O'-ring.

    Now all induced air is isolated closer to the caliper bleed port. Now tilt bleed port until it is the highest vertical spot and bleed from master cylinder through caliper bleed port. Mounting the caliper in a vice can make easier work of the bleed. A few quick strokes of the lever to remove any remaining air and you're done bleeding. You might prefer to add a very small amount of fluid, but prolly not necessary. Return the caliper to its mount and torque mounting bolts in accordance with spec's.

    When attempting this in the conventional manner and bleed bottom up, you would have to work the air up through the brake line and through the master cylinder.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  15. #15
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    XT brake bleed with Sram bleed kit?

    I use both kits one, then the other. Brakes are rock solid with no air bubbles. I cleaned the juicy bleed kit out real well and ran the mineral oil through without any problems.

    Good luck


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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