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  1. #1
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    xo trail bleeding help

    Just acquired a new set of xo trail brakes along with an avid brake bleed kit. My question is which "bleed block" from the bleed kit do i use to bleed these brakes? it seems the one for the xo trail isnt included.. Has anyone bled these new brakes? if so what bleed block did u use, thx

  2. #2
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    An Avid bleed kit should have come with a pad spacer/bleed block. If you don't have bleed block some old pads to protect the pistons and a wedge between them will work. just be careful not to wedge or pry against the pistons or caliper to avoid damage.

  3. #3
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    The majority of the time I bleed brakes without a bleed block, with the calipers installed on the bike. If the caliper is off the bike, then you need to stick a block in there to keep the pistons from popping out.

  4. #4
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    One of the chief purposes of a bleed block is to assure that the pistons remain full recessed into their bores. This is the most reliable way to end up with the proper volume of fluid in the system.

    As jlmuncie pointed out, you don't need Avid's block to achieve this, although it's the most convenient way since it assures the pistons are fully recessed (you will not be able to insert the correct Avid block if the pistons are not fully recessed). Another convenience of the block is one end is wedge-shaped and is intended for speading the pads apart to recess the pistons.

    RustyIron points out there are many ways to get things done, and all of them are right if they get you where you need to be. I have bled without using the blocks before and got where I needed.

    Good luck,
    Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  5. #5
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    I used whichever bleed block fit between the pistons when the pads were removed. I think it was the standard Elixer block. Make sure it covers all 4 pistons. The other tip is to make sure you remove the lever from the bars at the end so that the lever bleed port is facing up before you remove the syringe, then top off the fluid after t is removed. It took me a few tries before I figured out that key step and got a decent bleed.

  6. #6
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    I'm looking for some suggestions on bleeding my 2013 X0 Trails. Brakes worked awesome right out of the box for the first month. After a big trip and assembling the bike in the hotel, i flipped the bike upside down to work on it in a hotel room and then the brake got super mushy and the pads stopped engaging all the way. No big deal, probably a bad factory bleed i thought.

    I've bleed Elixir CR's, single piston 2012 X0's following Avid's procedure on Youtube and have always had great results. I've also bleed plenty of Shimano and Formula brakes as well so I'm fairly comfortable bleeding brakes.

    After removing pads, inserting bleed blocks, and bleed syringes on both the caliper and the lever, I go to push fluid from the caliper to the lever, nothing, can't budge it. The lever is mushy and so I try to push fluid from it down to the caliper, still nothing. Then I remove the bleed blocks and I can push fluid into the caliper, pushing out the pistons, so I know fluid is moving around the caliper.

    So my questions are:
    1) Should I order a replacement cable?
    2) Is there anything in the lever that might be causing this?
    3) Why would it work fine for a month of riding, then start? I can't see any external damage to the hydraulic cable, but that does not mean there is not internal damage preventing oil to flow between the caliper and lever.

    Any other suggestions I might have overlooked?

  7. #7
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    make sure you don't have the lever pulled any when you are trying to push fluid through the system.

  8. #8
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    Also make sure that the pad contact adjuster is turned all the way in and that your lever is adjusted so its not dialed in too close to the bars.

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