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  1. #1
    Happy Trails
    Reputation: Scott In MD's Avatar
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    Will I Have Trouble Routing Hyd Brake Lines?

    Hi from Maryland. I have a 2003 Specialized SJ Comp with V-brakes. The wheels and frame are disc-able, though, with ISO mounts on the frame and fork, and 6-bolt mounts on the wheels. I'll probably upgrade the wheels when I decide on brakes anyway, but then I'll set up the old stock Mavic 221's with smoothies for commuting.

    So... I have some anxiety about how to route and attach the cables when I switch to hydraulic brakes. I'll still have the V-brake threaded bosses on my frame and fork, which won't bother me, but I am concerned as to how I'll route the cables. Are there any tricks I need to know about? Are there any aftermarket cable-guide-thingamajibs or should I just use cable ties? Is the cable diameter the same as my V-brake cable, so the cable will fit on the top-tube cable guides? Has any one done this who has some experience and advice? I do a lot of my maintenance myself, but should I use my LBS for this ...brakes are sooooo much cheaper online, but not if I can't get 'em installed! Any thoughts, lessons learned, ideas and tips are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance. Happy trails!
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  2. #2
    Bike to the Bone...
    Reputation: rzozaya1969's Avatar
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    I don't think you'd have problems. If you're going with mechanical brakes, it will probably be easier to route, since they use the standard cables. You will need new cable and housing because you need more lenght of cable to get to the caliper than to the V-Brake. Hydraulic, I don't know. I had a 04 SJ that came with V which I put some HFX 9 brakes and had no problem. I don't remember if the frame had some issues or not, but I don't think they were a problem. You will need some zip tires, and a bit of patience.

    When instaling the rotors, remember to tighten the screws opposite (sort of like car tires), and keep tightening the whole set.

  3. #3
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    The brake bosses can be unthreaded.

    The hydraulic lines will not fit in the cable stops. Think about how thin that little opening is for the cable. The hose is roughly the same diameter as your housing.

    You can either drill out your cable stops... or... There are adapters that screw into your cable stops. There are stick on hose guides. There are zip ties.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: Berkley's Avatar
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    Zip ties for the win

  5. #5
    Happy Trails
    Reputation: Scott In MD's Avatar
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    XSL_WiLL,

    What does it mean when you say "The brake bosses can be unthreaded."?

    I think the threaded V-brake bosses on my Fox Fork and on my frame are welded/brazed on.

    Thanks for the comments.

  6. #6
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    I mean exactly what I said. The posts are threaded into the frame and fork. They can be removed. There's a little flat on the posts for a wrench. It may take a lot of force to remove... sometimes a strong thread locker is used. If you're not comfortable removing them, take it to a shop.

  7. #7
    Bike to the Bone...
    Reputation: rzozaya1969's Avatar
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    What I think XS Will is refering is the metal thingies that hold the V parts, and it can be removed.

    I removed the rear ones, but left the front ones on the pic.
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  8. #8
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    If you want to remove the....

    brake posts, the ones in the fork will come out fairly easily. The posts mounted to the rear will take some effort and need to be heated to get them out. Specialized uses a VERY strong thread locker when they install them. It takes heating with a butane torch to break the stuff loose. There are two other options as well, leave them in place, or you can but them off flush with a dremel tool and install filler bolts for a front boss. In any case the rear posts won't be easy to remove, but it can be done.

    As far as routing goes, it's pretty much a snap. For cable brakes the existing cable routing is fine. The only spot that you'll have to do something different is with the run from the the last cable stop on the frame to the rear caliper. A simple zip tire at about the mid point on the seat stay is all that is needed there. For hydraulic disc brakes, as previously mentioned, the hose can be attached to the frame with zip ties, stick on tire downs and zip ties, or, the cleanest method, anchors that are inserted into the cable stops like these... http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1606 . They're not cheap, but you rarely need more than two of them, and they look very clean and professional when your done. You'll still have to use the zip tie on the seat stay but it's better than having those danged zips all over the bike.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  9. #9
    Now with 3 more inches!
    Reputation: tigerdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squash
    brake posts, the ones in the fork will come out fairly easily. The posts mounted to the rear will take some effort and need to be heated to get them out. Specialized uses a VERY strong thread locker when they install them. It takes heating with a butane torch to break the stuff loose. There are two other options as well, leave them in place, or you can but them off flush with a dremel tool and install filler bolts for a front boss. In any case the rear posts won't be easy to remove, but it can be done.
    I had no problem taking them out on my 02 Stumpjumper and my wife's 04 Rockhopper. Just need a long wrench for leverage.

  10. #10

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