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  1. #1
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    What a drag....help me on my HayesHayes HFX-9 XC

    Drag drag drag. I have tried it all except bleeding, the rotors were never pumped out and dont behave as if they need to be bled. All they do is drag, sap the energy right out of my poor legs. I have adjusted caliper location many times, I have pressed the pads back in and relied on the auto-adjust and no help. I get them a bit better but they still drag. Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Are the pads new? Sometimes they need to wear in thinner. pull the pads and push carefully the pistons in so they are flush with the caliper (patience required) this should set them. Somtimes it helps to not use them unflat washers under the caliper bolts to get the final seating of the caliper straight.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywaybuzz
    Are the pads new? Sometimes they need to wear in thinner. pull the pads and push carefully the pistons in so they are flush with the caliper (patience required) this should set them. Somtimes it helps to not use them unflat washers under the caliper bolts to get the final seating of the caliper straight.
    Yup.

    With Hayes brakes, there is a little play when you mount them to the frame so you can position them. Tried loosening them up and moving them over/reposition them? This has fixed every single drag problem I've had on my bikes with Hayes disks (4 bikes.. HFX MAG's and Nine's).

    Also, if it's just a matter of pushing the calipers in, do you have the little plastic shim dealy that came with the new brakes (keeps the caliper open during shipping, etc.) I kept mine, and shove it in between the calipers to spread them to an almost perfect fit. Although I always have a slight bit of drag for thr first one or two rides until new pads wear in.

  4. #4
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    The pads are not new, the bike has been plenty used...I have tried every method of adjusting except bleeding and I think that is an extreme. I have had no problems on my hardtail with Avid BB mechanical discs getting perfect operation, not so with these Hayes brakes, no matter what they drag. I have pressed open the calipers, with the pads in, as far as I can, I remount the wheel, give a spin and all is fine, then when I grab a handful of brake lever and squeeze, the self adjust mechanism puts them right back on the disc...dragging away. Its almost as if internally the self adjust is set wrong.

  5. #5
    stay thirsty, my friends
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    I have the same drag issue . . . I'll try some of the suggestions in this thread in a few days when the schedule clears up.

  6. #6
    bike moron
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    If your levers feel solid (not spongy/mushy which would indicate air & need for bleed) Its possible that ther'e's too much fluid in the system. Had that problem with a new bike once. It was pretty obvious when I went to pick it up, they replaced the fluid and I figured that was all set. I kept having the same kind of problems until I took the bike to a different shop, which diagnosed the problem: still too much fluid. The guy told me what to look for when filling, but since I don't do that myself I've forgotten...sorry about that, but I guess the message is that if there's just a little too much it may not be any easy problem to diagnose.

    I've found that Hayes can be finickey on certain bikes. On my Stumpjumper I often need to fiddle with caliper alignment, bend a rotor a bit, etc. Much less so on any of the other bikes.

  7. #7
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    How much fluid did you let out....I tried this very quickly letting out a bit, and making sure not to get air in the system and this did nothing?

  8. #8
    bike moron
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodirt
    How much fluid did you let out....I tried this very quickly letting out a bit, and making sure not to get air in the system and this did nothing?
    The second LBS guy did it, so I don't really know; he did tell me what to look for but I'm really fuzzy on that since it was over a year ago...sorry....but if that sounds like something you want to pursue my advice would be to start at a pretty low fluid level & experiment...you can always add more.

  9. #9
    stay thirsty, my friends
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    I tried pushing in the piston and it was ok until I squeezed the lever. It rubs on the inside pad which leads me to my next attempt . . . shims.

    What size shim do I need? Brakes came with the bike and so I didnt get the shims that hayes supplies with them.

  10. #10
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    Hayes don't really use shims, If it rubs on the inside pad move the caliper in, if it still rubs the inside pad check that your pistons are about the same extended, if the inside piston is out more so than the outside piston push it way back in with the pads removed. Then remount the caliper semi loose and pull lever slow while holding the disc up against the piston you dont want to move as much as before. This will help get the pistons set right.
    Only thing to shim is the adapter out some with thin washers or the super thin shims that come with Magura or Hopes, Shimano. I've never had to do this thou. I have round filed the holes in the caliper to allow extra clearance.

  11. #11
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    I pushed the pistons back in till they were flush and when I got everything put back together the wheel turned fine with no drag. After I squeezed the lever though it rubbed again. Looked at the hayes manual and looks like shims will be the next thing to try for me.

  12. #12
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    My problem is even stranger still....I can loosen up the mounting/adjustment screws on the calipers and the wheel will turn truly and freely with no rub. I tighten up the caliper and whammo! the rub returns.

  13. #13
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    Are you still using the washers under the bolts?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywaybuzz
    Are you still using the washers under the bolts?
    Yes....your reaction makes me say that I will take them out and give it a try, seems too obvious though....hey ya never know.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodirt
    Yes....your reaction makes me say that I will take them out and give it a try, seems too obvious though....hey ya never know.
    In one of your earlier posts you mention that they are well used, I had a well used (4 years) set of hayes that I could not get the drag out until a shop mechanic suggested I clean/lube the pistons in the caliper. Simply pulled the pads out, pumped out the pistons a bit (not so much that they popped out) cleaned then lubed with......WINDOW cleaner.

    Voila pistons retract all the way now.

    Just my $.02

    TJ

  16. #16
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    my reference to "well used" was just in regard to the question of breaking in the pads....The bike and brakes are only 6 months old, they have gotten plenty of use in that time. Thats all.

  17. #17
    stay thirsty, my friends
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    So anybody know what size shims I need for the hayes nines?

  18. #18
    Trail Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodirt
    My problem is even stranger still....I can loosen up the mounting/adjustment screws on the calipers and the wheel will turn truly and freely with no rub. I tighten up the caliper and whammo! the rub returns.
    Which end of the bike do you have the problem? Is it a FS or HT?

  19. #19
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    Hayes 101

    First tip.
    Take the wheel out, pump the lever a few times to get the pads moving. Push the pistons/pads in and out several times to make sure they move freely.
    Then replace the wheel, pump the lever till the pads grip and realign the caliper so the rotor runs clean between the pads.

    Shims.
    Throw that crap away. Hayes do not need shims of any description. If you can't get them to line up then something is badly wrong with you or your bike. Hayes hydraulic pistons self align to the rotor, they do not need angled or pissed around with.

    If you need any more advice on how to setup hayes (incl bleeding) then it's on my site (dougal.co.nz).
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Service Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  20. #20
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    Been there....done that....and yes I know what I am doing.

  21. #21
    stay thirsty, my friends
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    I tried this technique described in one of my repair books for hayes brakes and it worked so far. (havent gotten to a trail, but pumped the lever and still didn't rub)

    Loosen the two upper bolts
    pull the brake lever while retightening the bolts

    should cause the brake unit to center perfectly with respect to the disk position. I'ma take it out and ride it in a few hours, I'll let you know if it worked.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brodirt
    Been there....done that....and yes I know what I am doing.
    Then it's bleed time.
    If there's any air in the system, the pistons won't retract properly.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Service Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBguy
    I tried this technique described in one of my repair books for hayes brakes and it worked so far. (havent gotten to a trail, but pumped the lever and still didn't rub)

    Loosen the two upper bolts
    pull the brake lever while retightening the bolts

    should cause the brake unit to center perfectly with respect to the disk position. I'ma take it out and ride it in a few hours, I'll let you know if it worked.
    Still dragged a bit. It was better today but the problem didn't disappear.

  24. #24
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    Tightening the bolt can cause the caliper to twist.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brodirt
    My problem is even stranger still....I can loosen up the mounting/adjustment screws on the calipers and the wheel will turn truly and freely with no rub. I tighten up the caliper and whammo! the rub returns.
    Sometimes, when you tighten a bolt, the caliper will move. The friction between the washer and the caliper causes the washer to grab the caliper. Watch carefully when you tighten to make sure the caliper doesn't move.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBguy
    Still dragged a bit. It was better today but the problem didn't disappear.
    Look thru the caliper with a piece of white paper behind it, you can see where it rubs when you spin the wheel. Then just losen the bolts and move the caliper so it doesn't rub anymore. That business of clamping the rotor and tightening the caliper doesn't always work so well. I sometimes shine a light behind thru the caliper to see if its centered.

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