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  1. #1
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    wanting red hope`s but how

    hay guys iam wanting some hope brakes but want them red,so i was thinking can i just strip them and get them anodized,or would striping and a full rebuild be a pain.

  2. #2
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    Stripping and rebuilding would be easy. In case it matters, all of their components are anodized already; even the silver ones.
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  3. #3
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    chees steve for that info i didnt know,would it affect the pistons master cylinders etc or would the anodizing be ok as its only 0.0001 thick

  4. #4
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    I imagine that Hope would recommend against it, but I suppose that the people who do the anodising would be able to advise you as to retaining tolerances and what the implications are of anodising an already anodised surface. I don't know enough about the process to give you anything useful.

    I know somebody who may have a set of red limited edition '07 Mono M4 (like these) if you'd like me to check?
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  5. #5
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    You could also try powder coat. They can do a candy apple red that looks close to a red anodized. They can plug any area you dont want coated. The powder coat won't fade either.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  6. #6
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    thanks for the offer steve,but iam looking for the new tech m4 ones,thanks once again.
    john

  7. #7
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    I thought you probably were. No problem, though. I'd be interested to know who you get on if you decide to have them anodised.

    The Tech lever is a little different to dismantle/rebuild than the earlier levers, though still pretty straightforward I would imagine. The tools are basic, apart from a tamper-proof (with the hollow center) T10 Torx. Here's a link for a caliper overhaul, which covers all you'll need to strip down and rebuild. The Tech M4 uses only one tool (M4 large) to remove both bore caps.
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  8. #8
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    that should be a sticky on the main page.

  9. #9
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    right iam going for a front 1st then get the back when i can.what iam wanting to know is the set-up on avid rotors and will i just be able to take the juicy3 off and mount the m4 to the juicy mount,or do i have to buy the hope disk mounts tooo.

  10. #10
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    As I understand it, the Avid mounts are different because they are designed to work with the tri-align, CPS stack carry-on that Avid uses. Hope brakes will come with the correct mount for the rotor size you are using. Hope adaptors will be for a 183mm rotor - I presume that your Avid is a 185mm.
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    What luck for rulers, that men do not think - Adolf Hitler

  11. #11
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    ohh thats a good point i think so,185mm bugger so i need a mount and rotor too.

  12. #12
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    righty hooo, got a front m4 without a mount or rotor,took the avid off and bolted the hope direrct to the mount fits perfect.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    anyone in the uk wants anything anodizing then let me know ive found a place i get it done cheap and can get a quote within a day for you.
    any shade of color as long as its not white as it cant be done.
    so bright red calipers are going to be done for me.

  15. #15
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    Any pics of those bright red calipers?

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    I would PC, but that's just me. Anything with bore tolerances in mind should be taken care of. Unless they can plug the caliper so the inside doesn't get stripped and then subsequently reanodized (due to the inevitable scratching and wear),then it would be fine.

  17. #17
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    New question here.

    Are you really that lazy that you can't clik on the link and see them?
    Quote Originally Posted by lornibear
    Any pics of those bright red calipers?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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    My Phantom pics

  18. #18
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    Anodizing is an electrochemical process of building a thick oxidation layer on the metal. The anodized part goes in a tank of acid (often sulfuric) and has an electrical current run through it. This builds up a thicker oxidation layer than would other wise be possible. The aluminum oxide layer formed is harder than the base aluminum. The thicker oxidation layer formed has small pores that readily accept dye. In order to re-anodize a part you would need to remove the anodizing already on it, not just the dye but the entire oxidation layer. A part may then be re anodized. A nice benefit of all this is, leave the existing anodizing on the inside of all the bores and other not externally visible parts with tight tolerances. Then when it is anodized again only the surfaces not oxidized will take to the anodizing, leaving the bore exactly how it was.

  19. #19
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    a hope caliper justwouldnt lok the same pc, the thickness of anodizing is 0.00015 so its thin, going to see a guy next week about it that does pace and orange gear.

  20. #20
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    Rize5boyuk, Have you had the anodizing done yet? saw a set of black tech x2's the other day which looked really cool and had been anodized by the owner.

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