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  1. #1
    JYB
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    TRP Spyke brakes???

    Anybody have any additional info about the supposedly soon-to-be-released TRP Spyke brakes? I haven't heard anything recently, and was wondering if anybody, maybe even someone from TRP, could address potential release dates. I really like my BB7s, but I am really curious abou these brakes. I'm definitely going to try them out.

  2. #2
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    I just ordered a set, arriving Wednesday, I'll run them on my Tandem to start (replaces a set of Spyres). If they stop better/feel firmer than the Spyres, then I'll try them on my FS.

    As far as I can tell, the Spyke is direct order only. $220 delivered, not cheap esp considering the they don't include levers or cables/housing.

  3. #3
    B A N N E D
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I just ordered a set, arriving Wednesday, I'll run them on my Tandem to start (replaces a set of Spyres).
    Why replace Spyres with Spykes?

    If they stop better/feel firmer than the Spyres, then I'll try them on my FS.
    The only real difference between the Spyres and Spykes is they are made for different types of brake levers which have different amount of cable pull.

    Spykes = v-brake levers / linear pull brake levers

    Spyres = road brake levers, cantilever brake levers, bmx brake levers

  4. #4
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    I am already running the Spyre's with Speed Dials and they feel spongy and weak, so the Spyke should feel better with the pull being matched.

    If they feel as good as BB7s, I'll be satisfied, but I'm hoping they feel better

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I am already running the Spyre's with Speed Dials and they feel spongy and weak, so the Spyke should feel better with the pull being matched.
    Speed Dials are 'long pull' levers, they aren't made to be used with the 'short pull' brakes you were using them on.

    You should of been using cantilever brake levers with the Spyres.

    A pair of cantilever brake levers would of been much cheaper then a pair of Spykes.

  6. #6
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    I always find it interesting when people onm internet forums tell me things I already now...

    So, because Speed Dials have an adjustable pull, they DO work with short pull calipers, they're just not ideal.

    The reason I use Speed Dials is because they work better with the Spyres than the crappy TRP short BMX levers, of which have two sets and would gladly sell them to you.

    Spykes shoudl be onthe doorstep when I get home today

  7. #7
    JYB
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    Looking forward to your impressions, Ben.

  8. #8
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    I always find it interesting when people onm internet forums tell me things I already now...
    I have no idea what you know.

    What's been written in this thread could be beneficial to someone, I'm sure that not everyone knows that certain combinations aren't 'ideal' or aren't really meant to work together.

  9. #9
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    So any update on the Spyke NB?
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  10. #10
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    I got them installed on our Fandango mountain tandem, using Speed Dials, they set up easy, no alignment issues, the pull is much firmer than the Spyres; as expected. No ride impressions yet as we were out of town, but we should get a good ride in this week.

    The Tandem works brakes about as hard as anything, so it's a good test bed. We ran the Spyres for the last year, they worked fair, but not ideal as there was a mismatch between the levers and calipers; they're little spongy. I could keep running the Spyres as they do work, but I was curious if the Spyke would be more powerful; I was getting arm fatigue on long downhills.

    For the most part I prefer mechanical calipers as I feel they are better at modulation than most hydraulics, though at the cost of being less powerful. In the past the mechanical calipers were generally not as good of quality as hydraulics, even BB7s are just so-so quality, so the TRP Spyres (cross/road) and the Spykes (MTB) are a nice addition.

    I also run Speed Dials/Spyres on my unis and they have been a great brake, surviving uncountable ground falls and rock shots. Unis use brakes much harder than an MTB.

    The differences betwene the Spyre and Spyke: The Spyke has a dust shield covering the back of the pads (furthest from the rotor), the cable feed has a rubber sleeve to keep dust out of the housing, and they are slightly wider which seems to be the result of redesigning the arms so there is pad adjustment (via a an allen bolt through the middle of the outside arm).

    I bought them direct, they come with a 160 or 180 rotor, $99 each plus shipping.

    BB7s are less expensive for sure, esp if you buy direct from Taiwan, the question is whether the Spyke is going to be as powerful. I have a new set of BB7, so I may swap back and forth and see which I prefer. For the unicycles, where crank clearance is very tight, the Spyre/Spyke is the only mechanical brake that fits.

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    Ordering one for the rear soon. Will be using them with Speed Dial 7's; though, these brakes can use Linear-pull v-brake style levers. Remember all the pretty levers there were when v-brakes were all the rage!

    If they work well, I want to mix the calipers with these BOX Genius levers...

    TRP Spyke brakes???-486095_red.gif

    Read the bottom of the clamp!
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  12. #12
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    Nurse Ben,
    have you had a chance to ride them yet? If so, what is your impression of the Spyke??

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    Yeah, I have ridden them, I posted feedback above ^^^^^

    They work great! I'm using Speed Dials, 200mm Hope Floating Rotors, the brakes are far more powerful than the Spyres, better than bb7, no problems locking up the rear wheel, no fade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yeah, I have ridden them, I posted feedback above ^^^^^

    They work great! I'm using Speed Dials, 200mm Hope Floating Rotors, the brakes are far more powerful than the Spyres, better than bb7, no problems locking up the rear wheel, no fade.
    Get any rotor rub after initial set-up? Was setting the pads up for equal force/distance to the rotor easy?

    Edit: My LBS has them in stock, so I'm getting one for the back to check them out.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

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    Thanks for the report, Ben! Can you elaborate on the "better than BB7s"?

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    BB7's can be hard to align, the cones are a PITA. I also feel like the BB7 pads don't center well at times they seem "canted". I don't dislike BB7's, I have used them for many years; I still have a set in use while I wait for another set of Spykes to arrive, and until the TRP brakes the BB7's the better mechanicals if that was your bent.

    The Spykes are a high quality mechanical brake, whereas BB7's are a "price break" component, the difference in fit and finish, function, all are why the Spyke/Spyre are so much more expensive.

    The Spyke?Spyre are better than BB7's because they are smoother, easier to adjust, lower profile, and higher quality.

    In the end, however, all brakes are simply mechanical devices that apply force to compress the brake pads against the rotors, so they are only as good as the pads and rotor. So picking a good quality rotor (I like Hope Floaters) and using the correct pad for your application (Metal, Semi Metallic, or Organic). The Spyke and Spyre use Shimano pads.

    I prefer mechanicals over hydraulics because they have more feel and adjustability, they are also tougher and more easilly repaired on the fly/trail. Many people feel that mechanicals are second class brakes, but in contrast to some of the hydraulics I have used as of late (Magura, Shimano, Avid, Formula), I don't really think any of the new brakes are all that, though Shimano has done a good job on their most recent brakes (M series) and the new SRAM (AVID replacement) is getting good reviews.

    The only "new" thing out there is the four piston brakes that use larger pads, such as the new Magura. A larger pad is going to provide more stopping power, but it will also increase friction and heat up faster.

    Honestly, what we really need is a high powered braking system that use carbon pads and carbon discs... or we need really burly rotors and brakes that don't overheat (heavy!).

  17. #17
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    Woot!

    Got my order in for the rear...

    The box and its plastic sleeve are sturdy, keeps the rotor from getting torqued. I couldn't wait to stab my knife through the sticker and cut it in order to slide the sleeve off, but there is not just one sticker, there are four holding the box in the sleeve... The inside of the box smells of new.

    The Spyke caliper is very easy to set up, the instructions to do so are easy to follow. Not having to use conical washers is nice. Getting the caliper and rotor centered and true takes little time. I set them up connected to a Speed Dial 7, leverage adjuster is centered. The TRP 160mm(x 1.83mm/t) rotor I received is true and has a nice design to it.

    Thanks to having a steep hill right near me, embedding took little time. After embedding, the brakes made a very different sound then what the BB7s do, the Spyke sounds like my friends hydros in operation. This is most likely do to how they operate: The Spyke has a similar concept to that of the hydros, to clamp the rotor, so if the caliper is set up properly you hear two pads putting near equal pressure to the rotor(I state "near equal", because there is no way to read the exact tension or depth in each piston to achieve an equal load, only way is with your eyes and your feelers). ANYWAYS, this brake sounds great when clamping down on the rotor, sounds and feels like it's doing its job, well too!

    Embedded; off to the park hill where there are few short descending trails of different terrain. After a couple of adjustments to the caliper, if I wanted, I could lock the wheel and keep it locked until I let go(lever not hitting fingers). Two turns from seated on the brake lever barrel and the modulation seemed infinite. I want to try the BOX levers with this caliper. The BOX lever does not have the leverage adjustment like the Speed Dial 7, but after tinkering with setting modulation on the SD7+Spyke, I'm not so sure the leverage adjustment is important. Guess I wont know til I try the BOX lever?

    You could compare the BB7 and Spyke, but in the end, they use different systems of operation, to were both most likely have their strengths and weaknesses. Though, I've only rode for an hour and a half after embedding the Spyke today and have yet to find a weakness in the Spyke caliper in combination with a bent SD7 lever.

    I'm more than happy with the TRP Spyke disk brake system. I'll be getting another caliper and 180mm rotor for the front, and I'm ordering some Disco Brake pads after this posting.

    Happy Trails!
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  18. #18
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    Any updates on the Spyke durability and use?

    Thanks
    Andrew

  19. #19
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    I have Spykes on a Fandango 29er and on two unicycles.

    I previously used Spyres on the tandem and unis, they worked okay, the road throw was a little wacky which made the brakes feel spongy with Avid mtb Speed Dial levers, but they worked.

    I upgraded to Spykes first on my solo bike, rode those for a year and they were just okay. I didn't like how the brake stopped when I was riding hard, they seemed to fade, so I changed to the Guides.

    Strangely I have not had any fading issues with Spykes on the Fandango, so maybe it was a bad set of pads on the solo bike or I just needed bigger rotors??

    On the unis the Spyres and Spikes work great, never had an issue with pad failure, fade, and for the most part they are squeak free when wet.

    I like how the Spykes have a cover over the back side of the pad to keep out the grit, it's also nice to have some external pad adjustment like the BB's; though it takes an allen wrench to adjust them.

    Alex at MTB Tandems is now offering Spykes as an option to the BB7's

    I also run BB7 on my fat bike and they are equally effective, though they are little more plasticky and all those little ball and sockets are a PITA.

  20. #20
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    Thanks Ben.

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    Been running the Spykes for over 5 months now and they are still awesome. The caliper can be set up in 2 to 5 minutes and the caliper is easy to clean.

    I recently developed a clicking in my rear spyke. It would occur while in motion, only, while apply braking force. I pulled the caliper, removed the pads, cleaned inside the caliper with a dry rag around a piece of wood, and put a few drops of oil in the dynamics. Removed any contamination from the back of the pads and re-applied automotive brake grease to the back of the pads and re-installed. The clicking was gone! Figured that the pad was moving around on the caliper piston while being engaged.

    The more you know!
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

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    I have Spyres on my cross bike and they're the only mechanical disc I've ever used and I feel like power is lacking. Adjustability/setup is easy. I'm running XTR rotors and metallic pads. They're not terrible but a lot less power than the rim brakes on my road bike or the hydro discs on my MTB.

    Again, all I've ever used that wasn't a rim brake or hydro disc, so comparatively they may be great but I don't have anything to compare them to.

  23. #23
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    Alias- what kind of cable housing are you using? I think compressionless housing should make a big difference, if you don't already have that. I have Spyres on a Vaya (touring bike) with standard cables and they are fine for my purposes, but I suspect that they will feel much better when I get around to compressionless housing like Jagwire Mnt Pro on my bike.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Alias- what kind of cable housing are you using? I think compressionless housing should make a big difference, if you don't already have that. I have Spyres on a Vaya (touring bike) with standard cables and they are fine for my purposes, but I suspect that they will feel much better when I get around to compressionless housing like Jagwire Mnt Pro on my bike.
    It says Jagwire on the housing, dunno what model within that brand though...

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    It says Jagwire on the housing, dunno what model within that brand though...
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle
    compressionless housing
    Meaning; full length, uncut housing; no cutting the housing for use in the frame cable stops. Best for longevity of drive and brake cables!
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

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    Put Spykes on my new Krampus a couple of months ago. I'm coming from road and cx (which has TRP canti's), so no experience with disc brakes.

    I'm riding in a maritime forest at sea-level. The forest comprises dune after dune, so up and down all day long. Zero trouble with the brakes, so far. Didn't notice any lack of power or modulation, could stop on a dime or slow carefully over downhill roots. (New mountain biker, so I'm careful!).

    Wanted the Spykes because they were supposed to be simple to maintain, and reviews said they were better than BB7's. No idea if that is true, but I see nothing wrong with them. Plus, it's a ss drivetrain, so wanted a very 'clean' bike mechanically. Spykes seem to do it.

    I did use Avid brake-levers. They were $16.00 versus $40.0 for TRP's. Used a sharpie to take care of that. Now they are generic with no name.

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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    Been running the Spykes for over 5 months now and they are still awesome.
    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    Zero trouble with the brakes, so far. Didn't notice any lack of power or modulation, could stop on a dime or slow carefully over downhill roots. (New mountain biker, so I'm careful!).
    Thank you for the additional feedback. Currently, Spykes are the only brakes that I'm considering to replace my aging BB7 calipers. The 7s have been flawless, but I'm looking to try something new. Thanks again!

  28. #28
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    old topic: my Spyres are working well my CX bike but rather noisy. when they get wet, they are LOUD! is this because of the pads, the rotors, or both? what do you recommend as a fix?

    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    Meaning; full length, uncut housing; no cutting the housing for use in the frame cable stops. Best for longevity of drive and brake cables!
    sorry for the long delay in response, but using one continuous length of housing is not the same thing as "compressionless" housing. compressionless housing like Jagwire MTN Pro housing has strands that run the length of the housing to stiffen it up, instead of just a coiled tunnel for the cable to run through, so when the cable is pulled it does not squish the housing like a spring, giving the brakes a squishy feel. if anything, using shorter bits of standard housing would firm up the feeling of the brake because there is less housing to squish under pressure. so if you are going to use one continuous length of housing, compressionless housing would be much better.

  29. #29
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    Loud when wet? That's pretty much all disc brakes. There are some pad materials that work better in wet conditions, and may be quieter, but I don't personally have any experience with them, so can't really make a recommendation beyond saying look for wet weather pads, and expect less useful life out of them.

  30. #30
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    when I say they are loud when wet, I mean deafening. I expect disc brakes to be loud, but this is ridiculous. they are much, much louder than any disc brake I have ever heard. they sound like a freight train.

    Shimano resin pads perhaps?

  31. #31
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    Yes, I think the Shimano resin pad would be an excellent start.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Yes, I think the Shimano resin pad would be an excellent start.
    Before you make any purchases, and with the weather changing, read this...

    Brake Pads - A break down...

    Edit: My Spykes are still going strong and have shown themselves to out perform my BB7's: I would rotate the two competing mechanical calipers between 160mm(V6) rotors on fork and frame to get the feel of difference. However, the BB7 caliper use Disco Brake Pads in Sintered, while the TRP Spyke uses oe semi-metallic. --I now have two Spyke calipers on my do all bike, but switched to a V8 Rotor up front because $12.

    I don't see a reason for hydros, unless I get some fancy FS rig(Transition Patrol).
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

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    I moved the Spykes from my tandem to an FS fat bike and have since gone through a set of factory pads, now running semi metallic aftermarket pads, no real issues to speak of, super durable brakes, easy to adjust, strong enough for a man...

    They're not as powerful as a hydraulic, but they are great brakes for modulation; they don't lock up easily!

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    continuous length of housing is not the same thing as "compressionless" housing.
    After reading you statement, I then realized that there was an issue with my brakes being a little soft, but they still stopped well. So I picked up some white Ripcord and installed. Compressionless not only got rid of that soft feeling, but also allowed more modulation. Thanks for the explanation on compressionless, I had not realized it was a thing for brakes.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  35. #35
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    In a german forum there were some pics of the spyRe. The caliper seems to be so big that in certain setups the caliper collides with the spokes. Since spyRe and spyKe are similar except for lever pull, does anybody know how this is with the spyke?

  36. #36
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    I've used Spyre calibers both with WTB LaserDisc Lite hubs, 3-cross laced 26" & 29er wheels and now those are in my road bike, front hub is WTB LaserDisc Lite & rear MTB270, both laced half-radial to 88mm deep rims.

    Would say no problems, not more than Hayes HFX-9 which were scraping spokes of these same wheelsets.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
    Cheers,
    -Mika

  37. #37
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    My Spyres (on a GT Grade with Rolf wheels) aren't any wider than any other mechanical brake I've worked with (couple of tektro models, BB7s) and actually have more clearance than my hydros on my MTBs to the spokes. Of course the closest thing to the spokes on my MTB's is the brake line that I always run to the inside to keep brush and crap from grabbing onto.

  38. #38
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    Mike and Cotharyus: thanks a lot! Since the spyKe should be similar, I think its not that bad as I thought.
    Last edited by cyclingdutchman; 11-29-2015 at 12:29 PM.

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    Been using the Spykes on my Jamis Dragron 650B for about 6 months now.

    Positives: I do like the fact that both pads retract which makes setup somewhat easier than with a BB7. I did need to use a business card between the right pad and disc on both the front and rear brakes for the calipers to center appropriately with the "squeeze the brake levers and tighten the caliper" method of installation. The fact that both pads retract also seems to help with modulation since, unlike the BB7, I do not need to run the inboard pad right next to the rotor to keep the rotor from bending too much when applied. Also, they are quieter than the BB7 brakes that were on my bike before. Lastly, the times I called TRP, I always spoke to to a friendly, knowledgeable techie.

    Negatives: TRP could have nailed this brake with a couple of refinements, but they left out some key features. First off, the barrel adjuster on the brake caliper seems to be a good idea but they left out any way to lock that adjuster down. There is no indexing and no locknut so dialing it out any will just have the adjuster migrating out of adjustment. OK, yes, you can just use the barrel adjuster on the brake lever for fine tuning but still...Second, beware that for my post mount 180 brake for my front fork, it does not come with the necessary adapter and bolts. The adapter from my BB7 worked, but I did need to use some conical washers to take up some space since the bolts were too long. Finally, and this is my biggest gripe, when making direct brake pad adjustments on the caliper, unlike the BB7, again there is no indexing. So it feels like there is no resistance on the adjustment screws and the pads need readjusting practically every ride. I called TRP and the rep told me to remove the pads and apply some locktite on the threads of the pad adjusters. I haven't tried this yet but to me, this seems like a temporary and less than satisfactory fix. You can't beat the positive clicks you get with Avid's adjustments.

    In summary, the brake is good, but the negatives make it hard to recommend as a substitute for the Avid mechanicals. Right now...it's a toss up.

  40. #40
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    ^ I've just switched from bb7s to spykes, so I feel it's too early to do a real review. But one thing I like about the hex adjustment is that it's not indexed - the avids often seemed to be too far out with one click, or rubbing with the next. I guess I'll have to watch for the adjustment slipping over time though.

    The other thing I like about the spykes is that the pads sit straight. BB7s cant inwards, which makes it impossible to get really tight pad spacing. Setting up the spykes was much easier.

    Also, tiny calipers, and after a couple of rides no squealing (unlike bb7s).

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    That's true, the BB7 pad adjusters do not have really fine adjustments. I got around this by getting it close and then fine tuning with the barrel adjuster at the lever. I didn't consider it a real problem.

    One thing that I do notice with both the BB7 and the Spykes is that even when the pads are adjusted perfectly on the stand (with no rubbing whatsoever), I do get a random rub (kaching, kaching) every now and then when I'm out riding. This is especially noticeable on my road rides to the trailhead. Not sure if this random rub is caused by a harmonic frequency when the knobs are buzzing along on the pavement at a certain speed or what. Never noticed this phenomenon when I was running hydro brakes.
    Last edited by hkmeup; 11-29-2015 at 05:01 PM.

  42. #42
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    I bought and installed my first TRP Spyke caliper and rotor to the rear on 10/03/2014. This replaced a BB7 with Disco Sintered pads. Using Speed Dial 7 with caliper.

    I'm not even sure how many miles I've put on it, but it has got to be well over 300 miles. Yesterday I replaced the semimetallic OE pads with some Disco-Brakes sintered pads and replace the OE TRP rotor with a Hayes V6 rotor. When the rain is gone again, I'll go embed them using the steep hill by my house and report back.

    To add; while switching out pads and rotor I pulled the caliper apart again and gave it a good cleaning with acetone, even though that click I reported on some time ago was not present. I just like my things clean, so I can get it muddy again!
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  43. #43
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    My update:

    I guess I've had my spykes for about 2.5~3 months (of grimy, disgusting winter) now? Yesterday was the first time I've adjusted them. I really should have just given the barrel adjust a couple of twists, but instead I figured I'd use an allen key. That is definitely slower that giving bb7.

    But I don't care, because I am a lot happier with them than I was with the bb7s. Much quieter, and I'm not constantly adjusting them.

  44. #44
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    I got my hands on a set of used spyRes that were delivered today. They only differ from the spyke by having less lever pull for road levers.

    I hope to be able to install them soon - will report after that. They are thought to replace the bb7s mtn on my commuter bike.

  45. #45
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    Oh btw: they build even bigger than the bb7 calipers and clear the spokes by only 2-3 mm.

    And newfangled: thanx for the update and keep us posted :-)

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    In a german forum there were some pics of the spyRe. The caliper seems to be so big that in certain setups the caliper collides with the spokes. Since spyRe and spyKe are similar except for lever pull, does anybody know how this is with the spyke?
    Ok have to correct this to: some people were afraid that the caliper might collide with the spokes.Now I am running a Rohloff in the back and a dynamohub in the front. Both are fairly wide AND have a high flange. So if there is no collision there, I think the possibility of that becomes very small. No guarantee though for those new fancy 140mm rotors that some use in the front.Will post some pics after installation.

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    I installed both spyRe calipers a few days ago and they both fit and have about 2-3mm clearance to the spokes. Some pics:

    rear:
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...5B1%25255D.jpg

    front:
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...5B1%25255D.jpg

    (Direct embedding in this post did not work somehow).

    What I also dont like is that the position where the inner exits the outer cable is exactly over the pads in the rear. When you have some dirt (or oil) dripping of there it is dripping exactly onto the pads. I will probably try to cover the pads with something or just put a piece of ducktape over it.

    Setup was fairly easy and pad adjustment is easy as well. I did not have time to break them in properly but power is more than ok.

    2b continued.

  48. #48
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    ^ the way that the cable exists the caliper is definitely stupid.

  49. #49
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    You are right newfangled.

    I forgot to mention that I have a 200mm rotor at the front and a 160mm in the back.

    In a germqn cx forum.somebody posted a pic of a bike with 140mm rotor which did not work, spyRe caliper collided with the spokes. I assume this would be the same for the spyKe too.

    And ist the cable in.the same location with the spyKe? (just asking to be very sure).

  50. #50
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    ^ no idea if they're actually the same, but you complained about it, which reminded me that I don't like it on the Spyke.

    With the spyke anyway, you have to put a 90deg kink in the cable after the pinchbolt, because otherwise it's right in with the rotor. I know lots of people kink the cables anyway, but I really prefer to just leave it straight, so I can rethread them if I ever need to. But with the spykes you really don't have a choice.

    I've used 4 other mechanical calipers with 180mm rotors (bb7s, bb5s, Hayes MXsomething, and a crappy promax) and none of them put the ferulle right in the rotor like the Spyke does.

    Edited to add:

    Not my picture, but here's the Spyke (with what I assume is a 160mm?):


    With my bb7s I actually had the cable get sucked into the caliper once, which made a mess. And the Spykes put the cable much closer to the rotor than bb7s do.

    Not a deal breaker. Just annoying.

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