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  1. #1
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    Trek/GF/Klein Disc-o adapter flex?

    I just upgraded my 2004 Klein to disc brakes, and I used the Disc-o adapter made by Trek in order to bolt the rear brake on. As soon as I had everything tightened up, I turned the crank and pulled the rear brake lever, and immediately noticed a considerable amount of flex on the Disc-o adapter as the brake engaged. This was while the bike was up on the stand, so I'm worring about what it might do on some downhill somewhere where there's some real force being applied to it.

    Anybody have any experience with these things sheering off when braking? If you have one of these on your bike, how has it held up?

  2. #2
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    I run the disc-o adapter on my 2001 Klein Adept Race, 2003 Gary Fisher Sugar 2+, 2003 Trek Elite 9.8 and my 2002 Trek 6700. None of them, visually or by feel, exhibit any kind of flex on the rear seatstay or adapter itself.

    I know that stopping is mainly done by the front brake (feathering it on downhill speed runs) so I keep the rear disc rotor quite small (165mm max) as a bigger rotor will lock up the rear wheel and cause skidding.

    The above are classed as XC bikes, but I do ride them beyond their intended purpose (3-4ft jumps and drops, moderate long downhill runs, urban tricks) and so far no problems as regards the adapters.

    This is how I install the adapter and various different callipers:

    1. Put a spot of grease into the two threaded holes of the adapter where it attaches to the frame.
    2. The two bolts must be used with washers under the socket cap to protect the frame and distribute pressure. Lightly grease the two bolts and thread them on by hand.
    3. Now tighten them using the same method as for stem faceplates - tighten each bolt a bit at a time.
    4. Kleins have a thick layer of paint that will sound like it is being crushed on the final turn of the bolt nearest the seat tube. It happens because the mating surfaces are not perfectly flat.

    5. Check that there no play in the wheel axle, and note how tight the wheel is bolted into the dropouts.

    6. Make sure that the pads are fully retracted then bolt on the calliper in a similar way.
    7. Spin the wheel and make a mental note of the rotor as it passes through the slit in the calliper - look for wobbles. Now centre the calliper body (not pads) onto the rotor using shims as necessary.
    8. Now dial-in the rear brake.

  3. #3
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    Anybody got an extra Disc-o adapter they want to get rid of or sell? Let me know, I need one for a older trek HT that I want to convert to disc brakes.

  4. #4
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    Bumping this up from the past. I plan on switching from V's to Hydro's on my Klein Adept Pro. I ordered a Trek adapter on fleabay and just want to make sure of a couple things before I pick up my brakes.
    A- The Trek adapter is strong enough for hydraulics right?
    B- Can I go 185 in the rear? Anyone know of rubbing issues on the chainstays with larger than 160 rotors? I'm 240lbs dry and do mostly XC but with sick technical downhills.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by farfromovin
    Bumping this up from the past. I plan on switching from V's to Hydro's on my Klein Adept Pro. I ordered a Trek adapter on fleabay and just want to make sure of a couple things before I pick up my brakes.
    A- The Trek adapter is strong enough for hydraulics right?
    B- Can I go 185 in the rear? Anyone know of rubbing issues on the chainstays with larger than 160 rotors? I'm 240lbs dry and do mostly XC but with sick technical downhills.

    I've got the Klein Adept Race 2001 model, size M = 17.5" (you can see pics of it in the manufacturers section).

    Regarding your questions:

    A - hydraulic disc brakes will work fine on the Adept. I've been running Hope Minis on the bike for almost 5 years with no real problems other than pad replacement. The rear is a silver Hope caliper No.3 on a 165mm rotor.

    B - yes, there is enough clearance to fit a 185mm rotor, but I recommend that you don't do it as a 165mm (or 160mm) rotor provides more than enough power to lock up the back wheel. Going bigger will just mean that you increase the chances of breaking the rear swing-arm, especially if it is made out of carbon fibre.

    Go big on the front instead.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the reply. I'm going to start with some Formula K24's at first in 160/160. I'm sort of a heavyweight (well, I AM actually) but I ride XC. After talking with a slew of LBS people, I feel confident the 6" combo will be more than sufficient. Even if I decide to go larger in the front later, I think I'll still stick with the small one out back because of the carbon stays (just in case!).

  7. #7
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    Just to update- I got a disc-go adapter off fleabay for $35 and have fitted Formula K24's 165's and it rocks. Way more power with much less lever pressure than before. Long, technical downhill sections used to light my hands on fire as I was braking for life with my old ceramic V's. Now those sections are much more manageable!

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