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  1. #1
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    Tektro IO Problems

    Got a Jamis Komodo 2 weeks ago and been riding it on and off because of the weather. The front brakes I have dialed in perfectly but the rears are becoming a nuisance. For one, they aren't as powerful as the front. The only way I can get them to work kind of right is to have them so close to the rotor that they rub a very very small amount. Now the other day I was riding on the trails behind my house and on the commute back down this big hill on the road, I was using the brakes pretty good. After I got to the bottom of the hill and let off the brakes, they started making god-awful low pitched rubbing sound. After they cooled down the sound went away. Is this normal? Once I get back on Thursday I'll mess with them some more...

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxxdout View Post
    Got a Jamis Komodo 2 weeks ago and been riding it on and off because of the weather. The front brakes I have dialed in perfectly but the rears are becoming a nuisance. For one, they aren't as powerful as the front. The only way I can get them to work kind of right is to have them so close to the rotor that they rub a very very small amount. Now the other day I was riding on the trails behind my house and on the commute back down this big hill on the road, I was using the brakes pretty good. After I got to the bottom of the hill and let off the brakes, they started making god-awful low pitched rubbing sound. After they cooled down the sound went away. Is this normal? Once I get back on Thursday I'll mess with them some more...

    Thanks!
    Pretty much normal when running the pads that close to the rotors and then heating them up like that. Things tend to expand when heated and any wobble in the rotor becomes a bit worse and can create excess rubbing. The fact that it stopped once the brakes cooled down points to this.

    There are a couple of things that could cause the rear brake to be weak. The set up/adjustment is one, or some form of contamination of the rotor or pads, or glazed pads could be the problem as well. Set up is something that you have to work through yourself. But if the pads aren't square and parallel with the rotor they won't perform as well. For contamination, check for dark streaks of pad material on the rotor. A dark streak can indicate a spot of road oil, finger print or other contaminant. This can reduce braking performance. If you see anything like that, remove the rotor and lightly sand both surfaces until clean, then clean with rubbing alcohol, re-install and wipe down with alcohol again to remove any finger prints. Also remove the pads and sand them lightly and clean with alcohol as well to remove any contaminants from them. Check the pads, if they are glazed, they'll have a glossy hard look to them. Again lightly sand them and clean with alcohol.

    The brake won't be as powerful as the front for a bit as you'll have to bed it in again. But it'll improve over a few rides. Just avoid heavy braking and heat build up or you'll end up glazing the pads over again.

    If none of the above applies or works, then there isn't much else you can do. Tektro mechanicals aren't known to be the best performing mechanical discs on the planet, but they do work. If you can't get them to perform the way you want, it may be time for an upgrade. But I'd see what you can do with them first.

    Good Dirt
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for the tips. I just spent 30 minutes trying to adjust them but couldn't get them to stop rubbing. I tore it apart and found out that whoever assembled the brakes threaded in the pad adjustment screw thing sideways so the brake pad was touching the rotor at an angle, which also means that the inside of the pad housing is striped. F$%*.

    I was able to straighten the bolt some what and I think it's better. They still rub a very small amount but it's not as bad as before. I think after some use they'll break in. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll try them out...

    Quote Originally Posted by Squash View Post
    Pretty much normal when running the pads that close to the rotors and then heating them up like that. Things tend to expand when heated and any wobble in the rotor becomes a bit worse and can create excess rubbing. The fact that it stopped once the brakes cooled down points to this.

    There are a couple of things that could cause the rear brake to be weak. The set up/adjustment is one, or some form of contamination of the rotor or pads, or glazed pads could be the problem as well. Set up is something that you have to work through yourself. But if the pads aren't square and parallel with the rotor they won't perform as well. For contamination, check for dark streaks of pad material on the rotor. A dark streak can indicate a spot of road oil, finger print or other contaminant. This can reduce braking performance. If you see anything like that, remove the rotor and lightly sand both surfaces until clean, then clean with rubbing alcohol, re-install and wipe down with alcohol again to remove any finger prints. Also remove the pads and sand them lightly and clean with alcohol as well to remove any contaminants from them. Check the pads, if they are glazed, they'll have a glossy hard look to them. Again lightly sand them and clean with alcohol.

    The brake won't be as powerful as the front for a bit as you'll have to bed it in again. But it'll improve over a few rides. Just avoid heavy braking and heat build up or you'll end up glazing the pads over again.

    If none of the above applies or works, then there isn't much else you can do. Tektro mechanicals aren't known to be the best performing mechanical discs on the planet, but they do work. If you can't get them to perform the way you want, it may be time for an upgrade. But I'd see what you can do with them first.

    Good Dirt
    Last edited by maxxdout; 01-12-2012 at 08:11 PM.

  4. #4
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    Hey, if it don't work out, I've never heard of a better reason to upgrade!

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squash View Post
    Hey, if it don't work out, I've never heard of a better reason to upgrade!

    Good Dirt
    what would be a better brakeset? If I do upgrade, I don't want to drop a lot of $$$ on brakes. Is under $100 doable?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxxdout View Post
    what would be a better brakeset? If I do upgrade, I don't want to drop a lot of $$$ on brakes. Is under $100 doable?
    BB7 Yes
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  7. #7
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    As mitzi noted, BB7s are the best mechanicals out there, and I know that Pricepoint has 2011 BB7s for $48 each with a 160mm rotor. You can use your current levers with them no problem, and you might even be able to use your current cables. Though personally I always recommend new cables and housing with new brakes.

    Of course when you add in shipping you'd be a bit over $100 I'm sure, but well worth it. So it's doable.

    Good Dirt
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squash View Post
    As mitzi noted, BB7s are the best mechanicals out there, and I know that Pricepoint has 2011 BB7s for $48 each with a 160mm rotor. You can use your current levers with them no problem, and you might even be able to use your current cables. Though personally I always recommend new cables and housing with new brakes.

    Of course when you add in shipping you'd be a bit over $100 I'm sure, but well worth it. So it's doable.

    Good Dirt
    ya what he said
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  9. #9
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    I've worked on Tektro IOs many times. If they didn't line up right I immediately pulled them apart and but em back together again. What you described is common with those.

    Ran BB7s for years and they were rock solid. Like they said best mechanicals out there. Went hydraulic a while back and love it! But you will not find a decent set of hydros for $100. For a little over that you can get a new set of BB7s. They're great. You will notice a huge improvement. (after bedding in the rotors) Plus, they are 10x easier to adjust.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the tips. I ended up sending my rear IO in and the IO's are currently discontinued so the rep offered to swap it out for a Shimano m416. I asked if I would be able to swap it for a BB7 and pay whatever the difference in price would be and he's sending me one at no charge! It's just going to be the rear brake for now as the front IO's are still fine. Eventually maybe I'll swap the front out if I feel the need to...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxxdout View Post
    ..... I asked if I would be able to swap it for a BB7 and pay whatever the difference in price would be and he's sending me one at no charge! .........
    now that's a good deal!!! sweet when customers get taken care of...

    was it the store? mail order? give them folks some advertising for being awesome

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    now that's a good deal!!! sweet when customers get taken care of...

    was it the store? mail order? give them folks some advertising for being awesome

    JensonUSA!!!

    Also, will I be able to use the same Tektro levers for the BB7's?

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