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Thread: Tekro Aurigas

  1. #1
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    Tekro Aurigas

    I have an entry level Specialized bike with Tekro Aurigas. This is my first bike with disc brakes and I'm not sure if this is common. When I pull the lever, the brake does engage at a reasonable pull, but to get full stop grip, the lever is practically hitting my middle finger. In fact, when pulling in an "oh sh*t" stop, I'm crushing the rest of my fingers against the grip.

    I see "bleed" as the universal answer to most of these types of problems, but does that mean there's no more tool-less manual adjustment without bleeding anymore? Is that the trade off for hydraulic brakes? Or is this just my cheapo levers not having adjuster knobs? I kind of miss barrel adjusters right about now.

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    Entry level brakes that lack adjustment knobs.

    It sounds like the brake levers need to be moved further away from your grips though.

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    Bleed is generally the solution to lever pull issues.

    The other is making sure your brakes are properly positioned. Generally, you will be braking with 1-2 fingers. Your fingers should be at the end of the lever, so that the lever hits the bar before your finger. Most likely you need to interchange the location of your shifters and brakes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by unaware View Post
    Entry level brakes that lack adjustment knobs.

    It sounds like the brake levers need to be moved further away from your grips though.
    Kind of figured that with these entry level brakes, but was hoping I'd be proven wrong. The old school BMX kid in my wants to just take a wrench to the lever and power bend it back for more clearance, but something tells me that's a bad idea with god knows what quality metal with these levers. Not sure how you mean to move the lever further away. I don't think there is a mechanical adjustment that I can make without said power bend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
    Bleed is generally the solution to lever pull issues.

    The other is making sure your brakes are properly positioned. Generally, you will be braking with 1-2 fingers. Your fingers should be at the end of the lever, so that the lever hits the bar before your finger. Most likely you need to interchange the location of your shifters and brakes.
    Because these are more entry level, the levers are a bit too long and parallel to the grip, promoting poor grip/brake form. They stick out to a point that moving them laterally away from my grip would result in better finger positioning, but pool mechanical leverage with the pivot.

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    They do not have tool-less lever adjust, but they can be adjusted with a small hex key (at least mine which are circa 2010). Look at the inside of where the lever meets the housing and you should see the screw. Assuming that they are not too close to the bar then you probably do need to bleed them and possibly add more mineral oil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    They do not have tool-less lever adjust, but they can be adjusted with a small hex key (at least mine which are circa 2010). Look at the inside of where the lever meets the housing and you should see the screw. Assuming that they are not too close to the bar then you probably do need to bleed them and possibly add more mineral oil.
    Thanks for the reply, but I thought that hex bolt was to adjust the lever closer to the bar, for those with short fingers who may require a bit of a closer pull.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostabroad View Post
    Thanks for the reply, but I thought that hex bolt was to adjust the lever closer to the bar, for those with short fingers who may require a bit of a closer pull.
    Yes - but in some cases they can be adjusted too close to the bar.

    Perhaps I misunderstood the problem. If what you are saying is that the lever reach is good, but you are braking with your index finger only and the lever is hitting your middle finger, then either switch to two finger braking (which is what these levers appear designed for) or move the brake levers farther inboard so that your index finger is only pulling the end of the lever. If needed switch the position of the levers and the shifters. Also make sure the levers are angled downward enough. For some reason bike stores (or the people doing the almost final assembly in taiwan) often install the levers too horizontal.

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    I guess my issue in a nut shell is that I'm not used to the amount of travel on the lever before the prime stopping power kicks in. I used to be able to dial rim brakes to the point that I could feather the levers and get reasonable stopping power. Now, it seems like I have to pull all the way to the bar to get that same effect, and I wasn't sure if that was just a bad factory set up or just how disc brakes work.

    I switch between one and two finger pulls, depending on how aggressive I'm riding. I'm having issues both ways.

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    Then it sounds like more than lever set up -it likely needs to be bled. One other thing you can check is the distance between the pads and rotor. They should normally be very, very close. If there is a noticeable gap then you can try removing the pads and giving the lever a careful squeeze to get the pistons farther out. But still ,a gap like this should not occur normally and could be a symptom of air in the system or insufficient fluid in the reservoir.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    ...move the brake levers farther inboard so that your index finger is only pulling the end of the lever. If needed switch the position of the levers and the shifters.
    ^+1 Rep.

    This is exactly what I ended up doing with my Tektro Aurigas. I swapped the position of the brake lever clamps on the handlebars so that the brakes are inboard of the shifter clamps. These have longer levers for index and middle finger use, so moving them inboard placed them at a perfect position for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostabroad View Post
    I guess my issue in a nut shell is that I'm not used to the amount of travel on the lever before the prime stopping power kicks in. I used to be able to dial rim brakes to the point that I could feather the levers and get reasonable stopping power. Now, it seems like I have to pull all the way to the bar to get that same effect, and I wasn't sure if that was just a bad factory set up or just how disc brakes work.

    I switch between one and two finger pulls, depending on how aggressive I'm riding. I'm having issues both ways.
    Swap the position of the brake levers inboard of the shifters. I would then adjust the reach so that they engage at a good spot when you pull the brake levers. If the pull is still too long, check your pads to make sure they are not too worn out. A new set of aftermarket pads made a huge difference for me on my brakes (Nukeproof Trail pads). The last thing to check is if they also feel spongy, have them bled.

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