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  1. #1
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    Strange problem with mechanical disk brakes.

    Hi.

    I have Tektro Aquilas on my XC bike. Cheap and nasty I know. Not forever.

    Anyway, the problem I am having is there is wear somewhere, so that when I pull the brakes, the cable anchor is pulled all the way to the cable barrel, where it hits it so that it can't go any further. (It needs to go further so that the brakes engage.)

    I got new disk brake pads. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=34823

    - Which fixed the problem for two hours... I went out in the rain and mud, and I had to adjust the barrel about 10mm back to take up the slack that occurred in quite a short time. Not even downhill, just normal XC riding.

    Witthin 2 hours, I was hitting the barrel again, and brakes were gone.

    Anyone ever experienced this? Is it the rotor worn and eating my pads (thinkness of rotor seems adequate though). Or is there something internal in the mechanism which is yielding or something? (I have not opened it up yet).

    Any help appreciated. Cheers.

  2. #2
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    Greetings Ronank;
    Tektro's are'nt bad brakes if adjusted properly, and I suggest going on youtube to watch the video 'Adjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes'. There are a few so watch them all. Once the caliper is properly adjusted and the cable stops screwed all the way in (bike looks better), loosen the cable clamp on the brake arm, hold tension on the cable with pliers, move the arm up just enough to remove cable slack(approx. 2/8ths inch) I've been adjusting mechanicals for a few years and afterwards you should have a lever with almost no slack. Take your time to get it right, clean the discs with alcohol and go riding.
    Regards

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoda View Post
    Greetings Ronank;
    Tektro's are'nt bad brakes if adjusted properly, and I suggest going on youtube to watch the video 'Adjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes'. There are a few so watch them all. Once the caliper is properly adjusted and the cable stops screwed all the way in (bike looks better), loosen the cable clamp on the brake arm, hold tension on the cable with pliers, move the arm up just enough to remove cable slack(approx. 2/8ths inch) I've been adjusting mechanicals for a few years and afterwards you should have a lever with almost no slack. Take your time to get it right, clean the discs with alcohol and go riding.
    Regards
    this^^^

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies. But those videos don't address my problem.

    You see the line I drew in red on the jpg below? - Well when I pull the brakes that line goes to zero. ie. the parts come in contact with each other.

    As I said, new disk pads corrected the problem, but only for two hours. Also, I have rolled the barrel out all the way.


  5. #5
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    On the other side of the brake (side closest to the spokes), there should be a hex key hole there or an adjustment dial. Turn that in so the pad moves closer to the rotor without touching.

  6. #6
    meow, meow.
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    On another note, I have seen a Tektro Novela mechanical disc caliper that had similar symptoms (pads not being able to contact the rotor despite all adjustments). Turned out one of the balls inside has fallen out of it's grooves and was wandering in there temporarily joining one of the other 2 balls in their respective grooves.
    What tread pattern does it take to maintain grip on reality? Is a rubber queen enough?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman1 View Post
    On the other side of the brake (side closest to the spokes), there should be a hex key hole there or an adjustment dial. Turn that in so the pad moves closer to the rotor without touching.
    That was it. Fantastic. A hex key hole. Thanks a mil.

    I missed it because there were three similar hex key holes on the back that I thought held the bolts that kept the calliper together. I thought this particular adjustment was not on the brake.

    Sorted now. Thanks again.

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