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  1. #1
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    Speed Dial 7 setup question

    I understand Speed Dial 7 levers offer increased or decreased modulation by turning a knob which changes how much brake cable is pulled via a given amount of lever throw. That means if front and rear calipers are setup and adjusted identically with the exception being a difference in the number of turns on the Speed Dial lever knobs, pad/rotor engagement and full pad lockup will occur at different positions of the lever pull. Thus more modulation dialed into a lever equals longer lever pull to lock the pads to the rotor. Am I correct on this or am I way off?

    I知 running BB7 brakes and have a 185mm G2CS front rotor that squeals so much I致e removed it and gone back to a 160mm rotor. Being a little over the 200 lbs., I really liked the extra stopping power of the larger rotor up front so I知 also thinking of trying the 185 again but with organic pads instead of sintered to quiet the squeal. I知 thinking of upgrading to SD7 levers at the same time to adjust out the difference in feel and match the modulation between front and rear. My only problem with this is I like my levers to engage and lock at the same point but I知 afraid with this setup I may not be able to achieve that. Am I wrong, can I have it both ways?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro S View Post
    I understand Speed Dial 7 levers offer increased or decreased modulation by turning a knob which changes how much brake cable is pulled via a given amount of lever throw. That means if front and rear calipers are setup and adjusted identically with the exception being a difference in the number of turns on the Speed Dial lever knobs, pad/rotor engagement and full pad lockup will occur at different positions of the lever pull. Thus more modulation dialed into a lever equals longer lever pull to lock the pads to the rotor. Am I correct on this or am I way off?

    I知 running BB7 brakes and have a 185mm G2CS front rotor that squeals so much I致e removed it and gone back to a 160mm rotor. Being a little over the 200 lbs., I really liked the extra stopping power of the larger rotor up front so I知 also thinking of trying the 185 again but with organic pads instead of sintered to quiet the squeal. I知 thinking of upgrading to SD7 levers at the same time to adjust out the difference in feel and match the modulation between front and rear. My only problem with this is I like my levers to engage and lock at the same point but I知 afraid with this setup I may not be able to achieve that. Am I wrong, can I have it both ways?

    Pad contact with the BB7 is achieved by adjusting the pad spacing with the inboard and outboard pad adjusters on the caliper. The Speed Dial knob adjusts the modulation. The difference in pull ratio from maximum to minimum on the speed dial usually isn't enough to affect your initial contact point that much unless you have one lever at max and one a minimum. However if you end up with levers adjusted like this, you can compensate by running the outboard pad one click closer to the rotor on the brake with the lever set to minimum. Usually, unless at the extremes of the adjustment as mentioned, pad contact is not noticeably affected. Also keep in mind that modulation is also affected by how close the inboard pad is to the rotor. The speed dial system is used for fine tuning.

    To set up the levers initially simply set the speed dial to maximum. To do this stand at the front of the bike and turn the speed dials clockwise until they stop, that's the maxiumum pull ratio. From there make sure there is no slack in the cables. Then set the inboard pad for minimum clearance. Simply turn the inboard adjuster in until you get rotor rub, then back it out 2 clicks. From there adjust your pad contact point using the outboard pad adjusters so that both brakes make contact with the rotors at the same point in the lever pull for both levers. From there you can adjust the speed dials to suit you.

    Speed Dial adjustments are best made while riding. Of course you don't want to be adjusting them while moving. But make an adjustment then test the brake. It's also a good idea to adjust one brake at a time. I usually start with the front brake, get it set the way I want it, then adjust the rear brake to match. Keep in mind that the front and rear will probably be adjusted differently. This is primarily due to the longer cable run for the rear brake. Also don't pay that much attention to lock up point. The rear brake should really never be locked up when riding/braking. Locked up brakes mean you are out of control because you have lost all braking traction. And if you lock up the front, unless you are in the proper position, your face will become intimate with the dirt or pavement. Also keep in mind that if you are using different sized rotors front and rear that your lock up points will ALWAYS be different. This is true even for hydraulic brakes. The brake with the larger rotor is simply more powerful.

    Anyway, bottom line is, get your initial set up done, then experiment with them. As noted your initial contact point is set up with pad adjustment. Modulation (within the adjustment range) is set up with the speed dial, and can be influenced with inboard pad adjustment within a limited range. Just make small adjustments, and set up one brake at a time.You should be able to get what you are looking for.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  3. #3
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    Thanks Squash. Don't get me wrong, I'm not locking up and skidding around on the trail. I know that's bad.

    Sounds like a set of SD7 levers are just what I need to tweak my BB7's a little. And with the price, why not...
    Now if some organic pads will quiet the squeal of my front rotor, all will be right in the world.

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