Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    735

    Sole rotor tinking when turning or swirving

    What gives, my front rotor is very noisy with tinky dinging sounds with quick turns and bumps. even in the front yard while swirving the bike around. Is a 9mm QR axle that flexible? i thought it was the wheel at first and tightened and trued my wheels. Could it be the sole single piston caliper design. i adjusted the pads all the way out away from the rotor to see if it would still do it and it did. The one thing i noticed was the caliper bracket between the fork and caliper s sort of close to the disc. I am at loss here. any help is appreciated

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    710
    Are your rotor bolts torqued to spec?


    Sent from my Nexus S 4g using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    735
    im not sure about spec but its on there snug and tight

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    6,691
    It's not the qr that flexes, nor the axle or the hub. But the lowers and or stanchions on some forks do. It also can happen on the rear of some frame designs, both hardtail and FS, that have a bit of lateral flex to them. It depends a lot on the brand, quality, and stiffness of the fork. I had an older Manitou Black with qr drop outs that would do the same thing. That fork wasn't quite a noodle, but it was close. I replaced it with an RS Reba qr and the brakes have never made a noise.

    So what you are likely experiencing is the fork flexing just enough to allow the brake pads to just barely tap the rotor. Not uncommon with low end, extremely light weight, or poorly designed forks.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    735
    thanks so much for the answer. its a tora 318 air 32mm. not the best but far from the worst, , about 400 retail. its a diamondback mission. some say the rear end flexes. this is diamondbacks flagship frame for all mountain so im hoping its just the front. well im not gonna worry about anymore, and just enjoy it F it.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    24
    It's definitely no guarantee, but I've seen one of these fix the problem:
    DT Swiss - RWS MTB steel

    They also have a thru bolt for use on normal 9mm dropouts, but I can't seem to find it.

    As was stated, the problem is not a flexy QR, but having a beefier QR that works as a sturdy cross member for the fork can help stiffen things for sure.

    The option that doesn't require you to spend any money would be to clean everything up real good. Pull the wheel out and clean the locknuts, and the surfaces of the dropouts. Clean the QR. Make all the interfaces have as good of contact as possible. Grease the pivots of the skewer so you can get it tightened easier. That all MIGhT help A LITTLE.

    ALSO make sure you have your wheel installed straight, and make sure your hub is adjusted well, and that the axle isn't bent.

    Basically anything you can do to make the dropout/hub contact as efficient as possible can definitely help stiffen things up.

    In the end, you might be beat just taking your own advice and not worrying about it until its time for a fork upgrade

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    24
    And as far as the hardware being close to the disc, if it is I.S. mount you may need to have your shop use there disc tab facing tool to clean things up. Take the excess paint off, and even things out.

    If it is post mount you might have some misplaced or otherwise confused hardware bits, or you might benefit from a facing tool if things arent sitting flush.

  8. #8
    MarkyMark
    Reputation: MarkMass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,005
    Is it a 185 Formula rotor? I don't think the QR matters. I had the same problem on my Mojo SL with a 15mm thru-axle. I think it's because the rotor is very light and flexible. Nothing you can really do about it except replace it. The 160mm Formula rotor on the back was silent.

    I swapped to XTR wheels w/XTR centerlock rotors there's no more noise (on the Mojo SL).

    Quote Originally Posted by akiracornell View Post
    What gives, my front rotor is very noisy with tinky dinging sounds with quick turns and bumps. even in the front yard while swirving the bike around. Is a 9mm QR axle that flexible? i thought it was the wheel at first and tightened and trued my wheels. Could it be the sole single piston caliper design. i adjusted the pads all the way out away from the rotor to see if it would still do it and it did. The one thing i noticed was the caliper bracket between the fork and caliper s sort of close to the disc. I am at loss here. any help is appreciated

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •