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  1. #1
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    SLX lever pulls to bar

    Even after thorough bleeding, I find my SLX 665 levers will still pull to the bar with enough finger input. I can't tell if its the brake blade flexing, air somewhere in the lines, or something with the servo-wave mechanism.

    My brake power is still sufficient, but I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I can still pull the lever to the bar. Anyone else notice this on other servo-wave brakes?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slurry
    Even after thorough bleeding, I find my SLX 665 levers will still pull to the bar with enough finger input. I can't tell if its the brake blade flexing, air somewhere in the lines, or something with the servo-wave mechanism.

    My brake power is still sufficient, but I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I can still pull the lever to the bar. Anyone else notice this on other servo-wave brakes?
    Checked pads, rotor for extra wear, reach adjustment? My SLX brakes would do this from time to time, but was usually always able to remedy just by winding out the reach adjustment some or replace the pads if this didn't help . If this is not the case, then I would say it sounds like some air still in the line more than likely.
    Ride On!

  3. #3
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    The brakes are fairly new, as are the pads and rotors. I don't see why I would have the change the reach adjust to fix the problem. I may give them another bleed...

  4. #4
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    You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

    This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc
    You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

    This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.
    Well that sounds like a logical explanation, but it's still annoying when it happens.

    Anyone have a good recommendation for stiffer aftermarket hose kits for SLX brakes?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc
    You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

    This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.
    You can't do that with my brakes - either the hayes or hygias. Weak lines will expand a bit though.

    Its not the same with auto brakes - since most cars have power assisted brakes, you end up with a lot of extra pedal power, but, they still don't usually go all the way to the floor.

    How much of the lever travel is being used by the pistons before they touch the rotor? If its more than you'd like, try taking the caliper off, giving the brakes a bit of a pump, and re-installing. Just don't let it get to far. Also, out of adjustment caliper to rotor/slightly warped rotor can also cause a longer lever travel, since you'd have to set it up for more stroke to keep the pads from touching.

  7. #7
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    I can do the same with my XT 775 brakes.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slurry
    Well that sounds like a logical explanation, but it's still annoying when it happens.

    Anyone have a good recommendation for stiffer aftermarket hose kits for SLX brakes?
    Look up Goodridge Fluid Transfer Systems. Their site is a bit hard to find their mtb stuff, goodridge scroll down for the "mountian bike application guide" or you can just look them up on chainreaction.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tyler243
    Look up Goodridge Fluid Transfer Systems. Their site is a bit hard to find their mtb stuff, goodridge scroll down for the "mountian bike application guide" or you can just look them up on chainreaction.

    Goodridge doesn't make any hose kits for newer Shimano brakes, as far as I could tell.

    The Jagwire 'Hyflow' kits seem to be the only available. I cant tell if they're any stiffer then the shimano hose, they don't make any indication of being any better then stock hoses (aside from using universal fittings and coming in different colors).

    Interesting to see someone with an XT brake also has this problem. I own two other pairs of non-servo wave shimano hydros, a BR486 and a Alfine. Both have similar, if not cheaper hoses, and neither of them will pull to the bar if properly bled. This makes me think the servo-wave mechanism is to blame.

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Rizzle
    How much of the lever travel is being used by the pistons before they touch the rotor? If its more than you'd like, try taking the caliper off, giving the brakes a bit of a pump, and re-installing. Just don't let it get to far. Also, out of adjustment caliper to rotor/slightly warped rotor can also cause a longer lever travel, since you'd have to set it up for more stroke to keep the pads from touching.
    The initial piston travel / lever throw is what it should be for a servo wave lever. I'd rather not manually forward my pistons, because a) you have to re-do it several times as the pads wear, b) the pads will contact the rotor during a point in the lever stroke that is designed for low leverage/high travel and provide less effective brake power.
    Last edited by Slurry; 03-16-2011 at 02:00 PM.

  10. #10
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    one thing that i tried and found worked for my hayes was to pump the pistons out a tiny bit before the bleed. normally, you want to make sure the pistons are pushed in all the way prior to bleeding. now, you won't be able to push the pistons all the way back in after that bleed because the fluid volume is greater. but after trying to firm up my levers by pumping out the pistons and re-installing, as the rizzle suggested, without success i found this other option to work. just be sure not to go to extremes with this method or you'll have constant drag.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro
    one thing that i tried and found worked for my hayes was to pump the pistons out a tiny bit before the bleed. normally, you want to make sure the pistons are pushed in all the way prior to bleeding. now, you won't be able to push the pistons all the way back in after that bleed because the fluid volume is greater. but after trying to firm up my levers by pumping out the pistons and re-installing, as the rizzle suggested, without success i found this other option to work. just be sure not to go to extremes with this method or you'll have constant drag.
    Cool. Unfortunately, this still doesn't help me.

  12. #12
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    Any updates?
    My rear brake does same unfortunately.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by twinracer
    Any updates?
    My rear brake does same unfortunately.
    Nothing yet. The verdict on the Jagwire hyflow hoses seems to be that they're worse or only just as good as the shimano hoses. I don't know of a stiffer hose will really help all that much either, I still think the servo-wave system is to blame.

  14. #14
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    i have a goodridge hose on my slx and the lever is solid
    Scott Voltage FR!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lel-95
    i have a goodridge hose on my slx and the lever is solid
    Can you give us more detail on which kit you bought from goodridge?

  16. #16
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    i cant unfortunately as i bought it used. Although the guy i bought it off told me he bough the fittings separate.
    Scott Voltage FR!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by lel-95
    i cant unfortunately as i bought it used. Although the guy i bought it off told me he bough the fittings separate.
    Nothing on the goodridge website mentions being compatible with the new Shimano brakes (new deore 595, SLX 665, new XT 775). Any chance you could get some photos of your setup?

  18. #18
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    sorry for the poor quality
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SLX lever pulls to bar-p4pb6170919.jpg  

    SLX lever pulls to bar-p4pb6170914.jpg  

    Scott Voltage FR!

  19. #19
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    hrmm, interesting. Maybe any of the non-banjo fitting kits for shimano brakes will work on the new slx brakes.

  20. #20
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    i e-mailed the guy that i bought the brake off, he said he took the calliper and lever to a bike shop and tried loads of different fittings and bought the ones that fit.

    You could try doing that if your LBS stocks goodridge parts
    Scott Voltage FR!

  21. #21
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    I got a response from someone at Goodridge. They said that the "MTB104 kit should work". With a Shimano SLX M665 brakeset.

    If BTI has one, I may consider trying it.

  22. #22
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    Shimano Saint lines will do wonders for you mid level Shimano brakes, no special fittings required.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab
    Shimano Saint lines will do wonders for you mid level Shimano brakes, no special fittings required.

    So thats the BH80/63 kit? Any comparison to the goodridge hoses?

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