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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Just did my XT's tonight. The original link was bad and didn't see the updated link until now.

    For anyone wondering if you can do this... I did front & rear in a hotel room. No stand, no vise, no vise grips. With the calipers on the bike (pads out)

    Just some Allen wrenches, tire levers, small Channel Locks, Crescent wrench and a utility knife with a fresh blade (simply cut the hose while it was laid horizontal on a table).

    Still need to pop the reservoir cap on the front brake, it's really stiff/firm.

    Followed similar (same?) procedure.

    Shorten Shimano Brake Hoses without Bleeding | Epic Bleed Solutions
    Impressive! How did you pound that thing into the line without v grips?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Impressive! How did you pound that thing into the line without v grips?
    Banged it against the desk My brakes did come with the yellow clamp block, but I could've made due without it.

    Just lightly loosened (1/4-1/2 turn) the reservoir caps. A small squirt of mineral oil came out of each (on its own). Tightened back up and now my brakes are good to go!

  3. #103
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    Another success story
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  4. #104
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    I'm reading the how-to on Shorten Shimano Brake Hoses without Bleeding | Epic Bleed Solutions and got one question about this:
    Reset the calliper pistons by pushing them apart with your plastic tyre lever or similar tool. This will ensure that any air which may have entered the system will be pushed into the master cylinder.
    So in the end is the air going to be kept in the master cylinder or it should be released somehow?

  5. #105
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    The air is forced into the reservoir by pressing brake caliper pucks back into the caliper. You then just top off the reservoir, seal 'er up and go ride.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    The air is forced into the reservoir by pressing brake caliper pucks back into the caliper. You then just top off the reservoir, seal 'er up and go ride.
    It's interesting that there's no mention about topping off the reservoir in the guide. Or I'm missing something here. Sorry, English is not my native language.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroZ View Post
    It's interesting that there's no mention about topping off the reservoir in the guide. Or I'm missing something here. Sorry, English is not my native language.
    Actually, you probably don't not need to top off the reservoir. By pressing the puck back into the caliper, you should have displaced any remaining air and thus refilled the reservoir. The whole purpose of expanding the brake pucks. Perhaps I should have said "check that your reservoir is topped" and go ride. It's just an accepted practice if you've done anything that affects your fluids to check or top off the reservoir.
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Actually, you probably don't not need to top off the reservoir. By pressing the puck back into the caliper, you should have displaced any remaining air and thus refilled the reservoir. The whole purpose of expanding the brake pucks. Perhaps I should have said "check that your reservoir is topped" and go ride. It's just an accepted practice if you've done anything that affects your fluids to check or top off the reservoir.
    So if you move the air into the master cylinder by resetting the pistons then from this point on you should not turn the bike upside down or the air goes back into the hose?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroZ View Post
    So if you move the air into the master cylinder by resetting the pistons then from this point on you should not turn the bike upside down or the air goes back into the hose?
    While you are pressing the brake pucks back into the caliper, you have the bleed port opened on the top of the master cylinder reservoir cap (which must be positioned level in order to allow all remaining air to escape). All of the remaining air will (or should) exit the reservoir cap bleed port. If you have pressed the pucks back in and you still have remaining air in the reservoir, then you will need to top off the reservoir thus eliminating any remaining air. Normally pushing the pucks back in performs the function of topping off the reservoir, but if not, then top it off. With no air remaining, you can turn the bike in any position and it won't matter.
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  10. #110
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    +1

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

  11. #111
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    Man, it's late, but just finished another one, this time I got the hose length down just right, but that vice grip was pita, finally remembered to wedge the blocks into the vice grips, like a diamond shape and then it hammered home!

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Man, it's late, but just finished another one, this time I got the hose length down just right, but that vice grip was pita, finally remembered to wedge the blocks into the vice grips, like a diamond shape and then it hammered home!
    Measure twice, cut once.
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  13. #113
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    Slightly OT, I'm getting very slight oil leakage where the hose enters the lever. Is the best bet to recut a bit of cable and install new plunger and olive, or just retighten the existing setup? In either case, I'm to ADD to just let it slide on a front brake.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by moosehead View Post
    Slightly OT, I'm getting very slight oil leakage where the hose enters the lever. Is the best bet to recut a bit of cable and install new plunger and olive, or just retighten the existing setup? In either case, I'm to ADD to just let it slide on a front brake.
    Probably no need to re-cut and install new olive and insert, just tighten up the line nut. I originally had some minor leakage when I shortened the hoses and incrementally tightened until seepage stopped. Technically these line nuts have a specified torque, but you need a Crows Foot and perform the torque calculations to do it properly. I have just used the 'calibrated wrist' technique and gotten by.
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  15. #115
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    I shortened my Shimano M615 hoses and bleed them just in case too. Now when I press the lever I hear some slurping noises or something similar under the reservoir cap. Is that normal? I don't remember if the levers made that funny sound before.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroZ View Post
    I shortened my Shimano M615 hoses and bleed them just in case too. Now when I press the lever I hear some slurping noises or something similar under the reservoir cap. Is that normal? I don't remember if the levers made that funny sound before.
    Nope, not normal. You introduced air some how and didn't get the air out. Sounds like some air might remain in the master cylinder piston. Did you expand the brake pucks, cut and re-install the brake lines and press pucks back in? Possible by bleeding (top down?) you might have just pushed what little air remained at the master cylinder reservoir down the line.
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  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Nope, not normal. You introduced air some how and didn't get the air out. Sounds like some air might remain in the master cylinder piston. Did you expand the brake pucks, cut and re-install the brake lines and press pucks back in? Possible by bleeding (top down?) you might have just pushed what little air remained at the master cylinder reservoir down the line.
    I removed the pads again, opened the reservoir cap and pushed the pistons in. A bit of oil came out of the reservoir. Put everything back together and it's still making the sound. It's really quiet tho - I have to put my ear next to the master cylinder to hear it. Rear brake makes less noise under the reservoir cap tho. Both levers seem to be stiff. Both reservoir caps seem to be nice and tight too.
    I also checked under the reservoir cap while it was off. The oil level decreased and increased while operating the lever. It still made that sound. Maybe it's the lever mechanism under the reservoir cap that's making it?
    Anybody else hearing noises from their Shimano (M615 or similar) levers when operating?
    Last edited by AeroZ; 05-20-2014 at 05:52 AM.

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