• 05-20-2012
    vortrex
    I did mine today. the brakes feel great (man do they stop!) but after the shortening I have rub in the front and rear that no adjustment of the caliper can fix. any ideas here?
  • 05-20-2012
    PerthMTB
    Quote:

    So the air can bleed out through the reservoir? Is there a one way valve or something to allow the air out , but not back into the reservoir?
    No, any air introduced during the shortening process gets forced into the reservoir as you push the pistons back in, where it stays, as its a sealed system. It's just that a small amount of air in the reservoir is not a problem, unlike if the air is in the master cylinder, calipers or hose. This is because the reservoir is just that, a store of oil, and is upstream of the master cylinder. The only issue is if the air in the reservoir somehow gets re-introduced into the 'working' side of the system, which can happen if you turn the bike upside down for example. For that reason it's a wise precaution to occasionally (and definitely if you know a large amount of air has gotten in) open the reservoir cover and fill with fresh oil to overflowing, which will displace any air in there. (Edit: Only do this with the pistons fully retracted, or you'll overfill the system.)
  • 05-23-2012
    HalFliP
    I need to shorten as well. I have been trying to read as much as possible before I tackle it tho. Anyway, my LBS advised to pull the wheel/rotor out but leave the pads in and squeeze till the pads touch eachother. This will prevent the pistons from pushing out too far....and then follow the rest of the shortening steps. Any opinions...??
  • 05-23-2012
    PerthMTB
    Quote:

    Anyway, my LBS advised to pull the wheel/rotor out but leave the pads in and squeeze till the pads touch eachother. This will prevent the pistons from pushing out too far....and then follow the rest of the shortening steps. Any opinions...??
    That's certainly one way of making sure you don't push the pistons out too far. However, it wouldn't be my preferred method for two reasons. First, have you thought about how are you going to get the pads separated and pistons retracted again? Secondly, I don't like to have my pads anywhere near when there's brake oil around - its just far too easy to accidentally contaminate them.

    So, my suggestion would be to use something 'brake pad sized' between the pistons, that is big enough to stop them coming out too far, can easily be slipped out when you want to press the pistons back in, and doesn't matter if it gets a bit of oil on it in the process. I use a plastic tyre lever, and its also good for pushing the pistons back in after, but anything the right size like a bit of folded card will do...
  • 05-26-2012
    danK
    I'm the type to never read instructions or follow them completely, but for this I sure did.
    Shortened my XTR 985 hoses and did not need to rebleed. Did not open reservoir afterward because the feel is perfect.
    Thanks to all who helped with the thread!!
  • 06-02-2012
    Wolfman82
    Brake rub post trimming.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by vortrex View Post
    I did mine today. the brakes feel great (man do they stop!) but after the shortening I have rub in the front and rear that no adjustment of the caliper can fix. any ideas here?

    I had a similar issue after shortening my front brake line. I bled them thinking that was the culprit. Nope, the pistons were still protruding from the caliper about 1/16" - 1/8" on each side and gently rubbing the rotor in a couple spots. I got the bright idea to push in on the pads while opening the bleed bolt on the brake lever reservoir just a bit. I heard a bit of pressure release and then retightened the bleed bolt. Pumped the break a couple times and now it's perfect. So far anyways. I did this last night so don't have a ride on it yet but it looks promising! :)
  • 06-02-2012
    Dan GSR
    yeah, the little bit of air that you push back into the levers creates too much pressure and doesn't allow the pistons to fully retract, after you push the pistons in, just crack the top 3mm allen bolt at the lever, and you will hear some air come out. this will let you set up the brakes without rubbing
  • 06-07-2012
    Solo Bellimino
    Just the kind of info I have been looking for.
  • 06-09-2012
    Dan GSR
    shortened the brake lines the other day
    rode, and the brakes felt the same
    just for the heck of it, i decided to bleed the levers, using the shimano funnel
    lots of air came out of the levers.

    would be a good idea for you guys that shorten the lines to do the same, all it takes is for you to put the bike upside down once, and you can have air in the lines

    i did not bother to bleed the caliper
  • 06-24-2012
    Racerx8000
    Just did this, went really smoothly. Coming from Avid elixir R sl's these brakes are so much easier to work on and so much more powerful. Thanks for the tip of letting the air out afterwards, that really helped.
  • 12-03-2012
    empty_set
    Did anyone find a new olive necessary? I've got a set that does not have any of the mentioned parts due to them being used.
  • 12-03-2012
    nmanchin
    Funny you ask. Yes, you will need a set for a hose trim. I JUST got a set. "Shimano BH96/BH63/BH62/59 Brake Hose Olive & Connecting Insert". Any of these part numbers will work. Also, if your shop uses Quality Bike Parts (QBP) to get parts, their part number is: BR0731.

    Retail is $3 each, order two as each bag comes with one brass barb and one brass olive compression sleeve.

    I'm home sick, so you ALSO get a picture.

    http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...E0CCD3EDD8.jpg
  • 12-03-2012
    jim-nc
    Can a barb and olive from another mfr, say avid or formula work on Shimano?
  • 12-03-2012
    Deep Thought
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by nmanchin View Post
    Funny you ask. Yes, you will need a set for a hose trim. I JUST got a set. "Shimano BH96/BH63/BH62/59 Brake Hose Olive & Connecting Insert". Any of these part numbers will work. Also, if your shop uses Quality Bike Parts (QBP) to get parts, their part number is: BR0731.

    Retail is $3 each, order two as each bag comes with one brass barb and one brass olive compression sleeve.

    I'm home sick, so you ALSO get a picture.

    http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...E0CCD3EDD8.jpg

    Make sure you get the right ones for your generation of brakes. The latest generation of XT (and XTR and SLX) brakes require a different barb. It's more of a gray/silver colored barb. The olives are the same though.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jim-nc View Post
    Can a barb and olive from another mfr, say avid or formula work on Shimano?

    I wouldn't advise it. I believe different manufacturers have different tolerances.
  • 12-19-2012
    goodmojo
    The barb kits are available on amazon and in many stores. I just replaced my elixir 5s with XTs and had to shorten the rear brake line. The only thing extra I had to do was open the reservoir cap because the pistons would not retract.

    During cutting etc I lost zero oil. I used a very small punch (1/16" or 1/32" not sure which size) in the center of the barb and a hammer to tap the punch to insert the barb in the brake line. My rear brakes came with a barb and olive.

    Took about 10 minutes to measure, remeasure, cut and install. Lightly clamped the hose in a vise to do the work. I have the park housing cutters but used an exacto knife based on recs here. After bleeding avid brakes, the shimano are way easier to bleed. I didnt think the avids were that hard, but the shimanos are 10X easier.
  • 12-19-2012
    Johnnydrz
    So the proper barb and olive for the latest generation of Shimano SLX M675 would be the "Shimano BH90 Hose Olive & Connecting Insert" as in this?:
    Amazon.com: Shimano BH90 Hose Olive & Connecting Insert: Sports & Outdoors
  • 12-20-2012
    thasingletrackmastah
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jim-nc View Post
    Can a barb and olive from another mfr, say avid or formula work on Shimano?

    Magura's olive and insert can be used instead of Shimano's.
    Also the used insert can be salvaged from the cut-off hose by heating it in a flame and extracting with plyers.
    The old olive cannot be used again.

    But it is always better to use new and original parts.
  • 03-05-2013
    jimi_v
    Just finished shortening my hoses per the instructions and took all of about 20 minutes to shorten both front and back. they both actually feel better than before. at least around the yard.
  • 03-06-2013
    chinaman
    2 Attachment(s)
    Never thought ... there was a new 'barb' out there ...
    Attachment 778201

    The golden one was what I have been using
    Attachment 778202

    Guess it is dependant on the type of hose you are using ...
  • 03-22-2013
    morkys
    I am replacing my Elixir 5 on my Giant Anthem X1 29'er and bought retail pre-bled front and rear brakes online (not quite shipped yet). I will need to shorten the hoses.

    Do I need a hose trim kit? Which one?
    My brakes are XT front and rear M785.
  • 03-22-2013
    authalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Do I need a hose trim kit? Which one?
    My brakes are XT front and rear M785.

    I bought the pre-assembled, pre-bled XT brake kits back in January. At least one of them, I think it was the rear, came with an extra olive and barb insert to use if you need to shorten the line. I haven't shortened mine yet. They were within a couple of inches of ideal when they arrived.
  • 03-22-2013
    morkys
    Sounds good. I think my retail kit comes like that too, I just thought there may be more stuff needed. Perhaps not. The Oem kits I saw online were shorter than my front by over 7 cm and the rear had to be shortened either way, so I opted for the retail kit. I guess it's good I did.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by authalic View Post
    I bought the pre-assembled, pre-bled XT brake kits back in January. At least one of them, I think it was the rear, came with an extra olive and barb insert to use if you need to shorten the line. I haven't shortened mine yet. They were within a couple of inches of ideal when they arrived.

  • 03-22-2013
    authalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Sounds good. I think my retail kit comes like that too, I just thought there may be more stuff needed. Perhaps not. The Oem kits I saw online were shorter than my front by over 7 cm and the rear had to be shortened either way, so I opted for the retail kit. I guess it's good I did.

    One of my kits was retail and the other was OEM. That might explain why I only got one extra barb and olive, and one of the yellow plastic blocks that you insert between the calipers when the pads are removed for bleeding. The OEM packaging must not include those parts. I read a few sites that mentioned a plastic hose clamp that you are supposed to use when you cut the brake line. I didn't get that. I did get two of the orange plastic spacers that go between the pads to prevent them from closing when the wheel is removed.
  • 03-22-2013
    cpfitness
    personally, all this jazz about removing brake pads and pushing calipers and opening reservoirs seems to be overkill. I did it according to the instructions in this video and it worked flawless. I will add that while I do plenty of my own wrenching, I come from a roadie background and didn't feel entirely comfortable doing my brand new 785 hydros. After seeing just how easy it looked in the video I said "screw it" lets do it.

    Super easy.

    Mechanic Mondays
  • 03-22-2013
    husonfirst
    If you're not bleeding the brakes, I see no need to remove the brake pads, although the process itself wasn't too difficult.

    I shortened my brake lines and must have messed somethng up because there was no pressure at the lever. I had to add new fluid into the system.