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Thread: Shimming rotors

  1. #1
    enjoys skidding
    Join Date
    Feb 2005

    Shimming rotors

    Hi everyone,

    I have a DMR Revolver hub, laced to an AtomLab PimpLite rim. It's a strong wheel, but there is one major flaw. I originally wanted to run a 160mm rear rotor, but the Avid Juicy 5 caliper was fouling on the spokes. In order to get it to clear, I had to run a 7" rotor, and even then it's not ideal (I think the rotor has bent a little).

    It's been suggested that I should shim out the rotor a bit. I tried shimming the rotor out 2mm, but it the caliper still fouled on the spokes. I could probably shim it 3-4mm more, and run longer hex screws, but is this good practice? Should I just replace the hub?

    Ideally, I'd like to run a 140mm rear disc, but it looke like even 160mm will be a stretch.

    If I was to shim it out that far, should I use the actual shims that are for sale (and are expensive!), or just some copper washers?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    What are you shimming with now? I like the full on shims that utilize all the holes as it distributes the load across the entire face of the hub and rotor, instead of just the circles from the washers. A proper stepped criss-cross torquing sequence is also a good idea to have keep the loads even. I don't think you'd have much of an issue shimming it out a ways, especially since it's the rear and will probably lock up before you can put enough stress on it to break anything. You're not using a super light hub so it would probably be okay. See if you even have that much room in the caliper to move it. Mount the caliper without a rotor and see if there is an orientation that will clear the spokes before you try anything that could possibly maybe damage something.

  3. #3
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    I prefer the shims like the syntace shims for the reason as the above poster.

    I don't think it'll be a problem if you use appropriately hardened longer bolts.

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