Shimano Zent

[Mr.Magura]

Inspired by another thread here, I decided to turn my Zee brakes into Zents.

Tool free reach adjust, and free stroke adjust, just like the Saints.

No biggie to do if you got a lathe handy. Like an hour of work or so.



Magura

[jeffscott]

Why do you want tool free reach adjustment...

I set mine up and havn't change them in years.

[Mr.Magura]

Generally spoken, I guess you're right.

I like adjustability, and I actually use it.
These brakes are going on a multi use bike, so it's neat to be able to set the brakes up for different needs.

Magura

[the-one1]

You can't post pics of the finished product an not tell us what you did. That's not fair.

[Mr.Magura]

You can't post pics of the finished product an not tell us what you did. That's not fair.

Well, long story short, I removed the blanking screw from the stroke adjust, machined a M4 stainless bolt to fit, and mounted it using Loctite 243. The rest inside the lever, is including the stroke adjust mechanics.

For the reach adjust, I just machined and anodized a knob (yes I am color blind, the Mrs. just told me it's purple. It was supposed to be navy blue), and glued it on with a piece of 2.5mm hex shaped steel pressed into the knob.

No big deal to do really.

If you need any help, let me know.


Magura

EDIT: I made a set of parts for a friend of mine, I'll see if I can make a couple of pics.

[Mr.Magura]

A pic of the parts involved in this little upgrade.

As you can see, none of them are hard to make.
The bolts are made of standard countersunk M4 bolts, where the head is machined down to 5mm.

In the back you can see the tool I made for removing the blanking bolt.
Center to center is 3mm, pins are 1mm hardened steel, the shaft is made of whatever you got laying around.

Magura

[BXCc]

Thanks for the info. How long are the M4 bolts for the bite adjustment? Probably going to do the same for my SLX brakes.

For people with out a lathe (most of us), another easy way is to put the threaded portion into any power drill and pass the head over a single cut file while running the drill. Just be careful not to damage the threads and just so we are clear, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PAIN OR DISMEMBERMENT CAUSED BY TRYING THIS.

[Mr.Magura]

The M4 bolts are 16mm long.

Keep in mind, that countersunk bolts are measured including the head.

Magura

[PerthMTB]

Real interested in this, but have a couple of questions 'bout the workaround on the free-stroke adjustment.

1. As you've made a tool that can turn the bolts already in there - why the need to replace them with different ones - is it something to do with length?

2. Why the loctite on the bolts - don't you need to be able to turn them to adjust free-stroke?

3. Does it work! By which I mean - have you noticed any discernable change in free-stroke by turning the new bolts? I ask, cos even on XTs people have reported that adjusting the free-stroke screw doesn't seem to do anything!

Just wondering if its worth going down this route with my SLX. Thanks.

[Mr.Magura]

1) The original bolt is too short

2) The 243 does not lock the bolt hard, so adjustment is still possible, the bolt just stays in position

3) Yes. You can simply see the lever moving when turning the screw.



Magura

[PerthMTB]

Thanks! Makes sense.

[chris.george]

I kind of sort of want that free-stroke bolt . I think this was inspired by the thread I started.

Awesome job on putting it together. If I was more handy with a lathe I'd do it myself.

[Mr.Magura]

I kind of sort of want that free-stroke bolt . I think this was inspired by the thread I started.

Awesome job on putting it together. If I was more handy with a lathe I'd do it myself.

It could very well be your thread. could you point to it in that case?
It was generally about if the free stroke, and if function was working or not as I recall.
Can't seem to find it though.

Machining a couple of bolts, like the ones I made there, does not require a degree in street cleaning, so if you have access to a lathe, just go make some.


Magura

[chris.george]

Sure! I think this was the one:
Shimano SLX M675 - Stroke or Play adjustment

[Mr.Magura]

Yes, that's the thread I thought of.

Thanks.


Magura

[chris.george]

So how's it working out for you do far?

[Mr.Magura]

As it says on the tin.


Magura

[whitedoom34]

Recently did did the "free stroke mod" on my SLX levers. Works perfectly, just like my XT levers. But much less fancy than the OPs approach!

Tried undoing screw with lockring pliers, was not able to get enough torque down before tips flexed. Then ground down a Craftsman flat head screwdriver with a dremel.

On one lever, it took a huge amount of force. Turns out there was an excessive amount of red locktite. On the other, it was much much looser. Much less locktite. I guess it depends on luck?

Using a M4 stainless screw, 16mm long. Had to grind down head to a smaller diameter so it would clear lever body. At first I used locktite to hold it from turning, but it got into my lever pivots and was a pain to clean out. Now using teflon tape, don't want locktite sticking up pivots.

Be careful to not break piece that the screw pushes against when threading in new screw. It is easy to bind/break. It is best (safer) to pull brake lever while screwing it in, as it retracts this piece.

Overall, great success!

[Mr.Magura]

Nicely done WhiteDoom.

Great to see somebody doing this simple mod.


Magura

[jduffett]

Is there any reason you wouldn't just use a set screw for the free stroke adjust? You probably end up with a 2mm key size instead of 2.5 for the FHCS, but otherwise I don't see a downside.

[whitedoom34]

It would be perfectly fine to use a set screw. I used what I used because I wanted stainless and thats what my local hardware store had.

[adleysh]

Hi there, just like to say looks like a good professional job. I also have a set of the shimano zee brakes coming in the post but don't have access to a lathe. So was wondering:

1. Would a normal M4 stainless bolt with its hex head chopped off and in place a more hand friendly head design welded back on work.
2. Does the shoulder under the thread head need to be present or can it be left off?

Cheers

adleysh

[Mr.Magura]

Hi there, just like to say looks like a good professional job. I also have a set of the shimano zee brakes coming in the post but don't have access to a lathe. So was wondering:

1. Would a normal M4 stainless bolt with its hex head chopped off and in place a more hand friendly head design welded back on work.
2. Does the shoulder under the thread head need to be present or can it be left off?

Cheers

adleysh

1) No, at least not in an easy way. What you can do is to take a bit of a hex wrench, and weld on something hand friendly. Then you can just glue it in like I did.

2) Yes, the shoulder can be omitted. It's just there to limit the travel of the screw.

Have fun

Magura

[adleysh]

Cheers Magura, will upload some pics when I sort out the fine details, might be a while tho as not got access to the machines until holidays are over.

Adleysh

[Mr.Magura]

Awesome job on putting it together. If I was more handy with a lathe I'd do it myself.

Well, the difficulty level is like 2/10, so just go ahead if you have access to a lathe.


Magura