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  1. #1
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    Shimano Deore M6000 disc brakes spongy

    brandy new bike with pretty much full XT set up EXCEPT brakes...they put on Deore M6000 disc brakes (why'd they do that?)
    first set of disc brakes as i was usung xt parallel push brakes before....

    i have no problem using the M6000 Deore brakes .....if they work and hell i am no awesome stunt riding, trans alp winning mt biker.....

    ....BUT they are a "little" spongy..... (as in TOO spongy)

    they work fine other than that.... pretty much have to squeeze the lever to where it's hitting my knuckle to lock them up....

    what do i do to adjust this?
    bleeding maybe?
    Àny other tricks, procedures and or techniques?

    is there a awesome youtube video that explains set up I am not finding?

    am i just an idiot?

    .....also where is my beautiful wife? and how did i get here?

  2. #2
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    Bleed.

  3. #3
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    I have replaced brakes on 20 or so cars but never bike disc brakes ......

    So I have watched about 10 YT videos on how to bleed shimano brakes.... so far this is the most complete I have seen is below and though directly apply to XT style but other than the adjusting lever all the way out and the free stroke it should be the same for the SLX or Deore......correct me if I am wrong....

    You'll need a 2012-on Bleeding kit which is just a syringe and hose and the Fluid Reservoir that screws into the master cylinder/lever
    Some tools but not many (allen keys, 7mm wrench)
    Mineral Oil for shimano hydraulic disc brakes
    rag and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning up....

    Method 3 (most complete IMHO) https://youtu.be/9ZYmW8i8TWQ Linky thing
    Part 1
    1- Remove wheel, remove pads, push caliper piston open if necessary
    2- install pad spacer
    3- Position Lever/master cylinder at 45 degrees from ground, Remove bleed screw on master cylinder/lever and screw in bleed reservoir, fill reservoir with fluid
    4- Remove caliper from frame or fork and let caliper hand straight down to allow the most direct line for fluid and bubbles to go through.
    5- Fill bleed syringe and remove all air from syringe and tube attached to it.
    6- Remove rubber bleeder nipple, put on the 7mm wrench put hose attached to syringe with Fluid to exposed bleed nipple
    7- While holding Caliper and syringe up… open bleed valve on Caliper (about 1/8th turn)and force fluid up through the system… look for air bubbles in reservoir on master cylinder, close bleed valve.
    Part 2
    1- Take off syringe and attached a bag or bottle to hose that is on Caliper to catch fluid.
    2- Squeeze and hold lever using Velcro strap, big rubber band, helper or very smart monkey.
    3- Open and close bleed nipple on caliper, repeat 2 or 3 times to force more air out.
    4- Ensuring blead nipple is closed on caliper, remove hose , put rubber bleed nipple back on.
    5- Remove Velcro strap, big rubber band, helper or very smart monkey from lever
    6- Squeeze brake lever looking for bubbles (they get trapped in master cylinder)
    7- Rotate lever up 30 degrees Squeeze brake lever looking for bubbles (they get trapped in master cylinder)
    8- Rotate lever DOWN 30 degrees Squeeze brake lever looking for bubbles (they get trapped in master cylinder)
    9- Rotate lever to be LEVEL ….Squeeze brake lever looking for bubbles (they get trapped in master cylinder)
    10- Put stopper into reservoir and unscrew it from Master cylinder
    11- Ensuring master cylinder is COMPLETELY FULL (add a drop or 5 If needed) put bleed screw & O ring back in
    12- Clean any oil with isopropyl alcohol from master cylinder
    13- Reposition Lever to desired angle, location.
    14- Back to Caliper, remove pad spacer clean it with Isopropyl alcohol
    15- Re-attach caliper to frame or fork leaving bolts semi loose to allow for centering.
    16- Install brake pads
    17- Install wheel
    18- Squeeze lever (that will center caliper on rotor) hold the squeeze and tighten caliper bolts.
    19- Test/Done

  4. #4
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    https://youtu.be/NxxWQ4lFHio

    here's a quick fix bleed also.

  5. #5
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    I've been doing a shortcut way that has given great results in the six times I've used it -

    Fill syringe and hose with fluid and attach to rear brake. Open the nut and forcefully flush all the fluid into the caliper while tapping on it with a wrench. This amount will almost fill the reservoir cup at the piston end. Close nut, remove cup and put the screw back in at the piston.

    The theory is that the fast moving fluid will flush all the air to the top. No bag is necessary.

  6. #6
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    I am 100KG and the Deore Brakes on my Camber work very well, I just get on with the riding. My other bike has XT and if I am honest the difference is not that great.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    I've been doing a shortcut way that has given great results in the six times I've used it -

    Fill syringe and hose with fluid and attach to rear brake. Open the nut and forcefully flush all the fluid into the caliper while tapping on it with a wrench. This amount will almost fill the reservoir cup at the piston end. Close nut, remove cup and put the screw back in at the piston.

    The theory is that the fast moving fluid will flush all the air to the top. No bag is necessary.
    I don't have the bleed kit (coming from the 'zon monday) and am going to try the short quick fix first
    ... if that doesn't work then I will go with the complete bleed......
    Quote Originally Posted by Kajjal View Post
    I am 100KG and the Deore Brakes on my Camber work very well, I just get on with the riding. My other bike has XT and if I am honest the difference is not that great.
    so you don't think it's worth upgrading?? ..... def not paying for xtr....but maybe xt
    ......but if they (straight deore) are 95 pct as good ...I don't think that's worth it and just stay with Deore

  8. #8
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    brakes bled ....... also no one mentioned the lever throw adjustment that is located between the lever and mounting bracket.....couple turns of that too and I am good to go.


  9. #9
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    Did you bed the pads in?

  10. #10
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    i did...
    How To: Bedding In New Disc Brake Pads - Mtbr.com
    After the pads are installed, get on the bike, pedal up to speed, and then gently grab the brake levers, slowly and smoothly applying pressure until you almost come to a stop. Do not stop quickly, but let the brakes drag you down to a slow walking speed. You want to heat the pads enough to lay down the transfer layer of pad material evenly across the rotor surface, and that’s all.

    Complete this slow stop process 10 to 20 times, and you’re good to go. Braking too hard and thus generating too much heat will build up an uneven transfer layer, resulting in noisy brakes, wobbly-feeling rotors and underpowered braking. Coming to a complete stop will also lead to uneven pad material transfer, so this should be avoided as well.

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