Ok so I must of read 6,000 threads about speed dial adjustments and how it related to modulation, power, and lever throw. In the end my head hurt and I still didn't understand how it all worked. So I decided to just do what I should of done in the beginning and go test the adjustments out in the real world. So feel free to correct me if I end up getting it wrong, but these were my results/notes. Assuming everyone is ok with it I'll clean it up and add more pics for visual definitions.
DISCLAIMER: This is my personal experience and may not be correct, so take it with a grain of salt.
Handle - part your hands go on
Lever - The screw that the block moves up and down on
Block - the square box you put the cable into that moves up and down the screw/lever
Cable end/block all the way up(furthest from the pivot point):
This setting gave me the smallest handle travel ratio (ie I didn't have to move the brake handle towards the grips very far). Now while it took less handle travel distance for the pads to contact the rotor, it took the most muscle/strength to actually lock them up. Now if we remember highschool math, you'll know that the screw that the block moves up and down on is the lever. The closer to the pivot the more leverage and less strength it requires to lock up the brakes. To me this made the brakes solid/tight. While I had to squeeze the hell out of the handles to lockup the rotors, it gave me a ton of feel to vary that force (my take on modulation). In other words I could vary my grip strength and easily see a difference in the rate of slowdown. I felt a lot more comfortable down declines because I could easily feel when I was getting close to lockup, and thus teeter right on the edge of max braking without locking up the brakes accidentally. The downside being your forearms will start screaming/fatigue much quicker if you aren't in shape. And I'd wager heavier riders/steeper declines would require some decent forearm strength to lock up the rotors.
Cable end/block all the way down(closest to the pivot point):
This setting gave me the largest handle travel ratio. On the flip side, however, I could VERY easily lock up the brakes with a single finger (required the least amount of strength). Back to math class this is because the block is now closest to the pivot and provides the longest lever arm/leverage. Brakes were extremely mushy and I had zero feel as to what was actually going on with the brakes. I found it extremely difficult to accurately adjust the rate of slowdown, as the brakes became very twitchy/grippy. It was almost like an on/off switch. Even though I had a lot more distance in the handle to vary, it didn't seem like it really made much of a difference in the feel to me. I could never tell how close i was to full lockup till it was too late.
Results 1 to 1 of 1
Thread: SD7 Modulation adjustment faq
Check out the hottest mountain bike products from these brands!
See All Interbike Coverage - Click Here »