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  1. #1
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    Rotors that dont warp?

    I just got BB7 for my Reken, and so far it has been a non stop adjusting. Both front and back rotors are warped, when I get them working right they warp all over again. Recommendations for a good set of 160mm rotors to replace the stock Avid BB7 Rotors?
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  2. #2
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    You sure they are warping? What kind of adjustments are you having to do? Because if you can get them adjusted right again before it needs readjustments, maybe it's not warping. In my experience, when i first got BB7s and adjusted them, after using the brakes a bit, it would rub again. I found that it was because when using the brakes, particularly when pulling the lever hard, it would shift the calipers slightly, but enough to change the alignment. So i just had to tighten the fixing bolts more (didn't have a torque wrench at this point so didn't know how much to tighten by feel). Anyways, this may not be the case with you but if you want new rotors, you could try the clean sweeps or the new xx rotors.

  3. #3
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    No they are warped, I can visually see the wobble when I spin my wheels. Its not a constant rub, but just a little touch every revolution. I am a big guy, 240lbs to be exact so I am not that easy on the brakes. I can just keep straightening the rotors every ride, if there isn't a more Clyde approved rotor.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  4. #4
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    Ah ok. How warped is it? Because if i adjust my pads in a bit getting it to rub, it'll also just touch every revolution. By definition mine are also warped. But i remembered reading somewhere on the forums that it's not uncommon to have rotors not 100% completely true, even out of the box.

    Either way, at your weight, you're probably generating a lot of heat on the rotors (could be the cause of the warping), so probably be better off with bigger rotors anyways. I'm guessing you got the roundagons? Upgrading to a bigger rotor will allow the heat to dissipate better, the clean sweeps as well by design dissipate heat better than the roundagons.

    How are you straightening the rotors by the way?

  5. #5
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    Crescent wrench with a rag, the same way I do a derailluer hanger. I believe they are roundagon, what ever came with 2008 bb7.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  6. #6
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    When you align your brakes are you positioning the rotor such that it is closer to the stationary pad? When you engage your brakes the pads should not be flexing your rotor in any particular way.

  7. #7
    Ride Responsibly
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM
    When you align your brakes are you positioning the rotor such that it is closer to the stationary pad? When you engage your brakes the pads should not be flexing your rotor in any particular way.
    That is not how I read the instructions. The rotor is supposed to be set closer to the moving pad, and the rotor is supposed to flex towards the stationary pad.

    Get the largest rotor your fork will allow. At least 180, you will need another adapter also.
    Might also want to look into different pads, softer I think would reduce heat.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LWright
    That is not how I read the instructions. The rotor is supposed to be set closer to the moving pad, and the rotor is supposed to flex towards the stationary pad.

    Get the largest rotor your fork will allow. At least 180, you will need another adapter also.
    Might also want to look into different pads, softer I think would reduce heat.
    Actually when I aligned the pads I did the suggested 2/3 of the inboard pad to 1/3 to the outboard pad tightened all the way down and then I backed them both out until they weren't touching.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  9. #9
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    I had a couple sets of BB7's and did end up warping the rotors fairly often, and not just from banging them in crashes or on logs even the rotors on my commuter started waving a little, the G3 rotors than came with my Elixirs have not been an issue and I read here they work with BB7's

    Ray

  10. #10
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    Hey don't mean to skew the purpose of this thread, but how do you like that frame? I still have my first hardtail, and I have since purchased a dual suspension. I was planning on having my frame powder coated and then building it back up as a commuter (i.e. a rigid fork, slicks, etc.). But the Reken frame is less than the cost of powdercoating. Thanks.

  11. #11
    trail addict
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtolds
    Actually when I aligned the pads I did the suggested 2/3 of the inboard pad to 1/3 to the outboard pad tightened all the way down and then I backed them both out until they weren't touching.
    1/3, 2/3 or 1/2, 1/2 whatever... just make sure the caliper is ALIGNED with the rotor vs the caliper slot. I never had issues with the spacing on one side vs the other.

    But when it comes to the setting the pads, keep the inboard pad about as close as possible so that rotor flex (wasted movement) is minimized (there will be some because that's how it works, but you don't want the rotor further from the inner pad than the outer pad).

    Just saying, there is alignment of the caliper and alignment of the pads... two different things (especially once pads start wearing).

    But to the original topic, sometimes you need to be satisfied with a small amount of warp/rubbing. As long as the wheel spins freely, don't worry if you hear a tiny rub here and there. I never bothered trying a rotor swap, but I was OK with the stock rotors that came with my bb5s, stock rotors with bb7s, and stock rotors with XTs. Some people bad-mouth avid rotors, but I am pretty happy with mine.
    You better just go ahead and drop that seatpost down to the reflector... the trail gets pretty rough down there.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rweakley
    Hey don't mean to skew the purpose of this thread, but how do you like that frame? I still have my first hardtail, and I have since purchased a dual suspension. I was planning on having my frame powder coated and then building it back up as a commuter (i.e. a rigid fork, slicks, etc.). But the Reken frame is less than the cost of powdercoating. Thanks.
    The Reken frame is a good over all frame, seems to be holding up to my weight. Comes with Disc brake and V-brake mounts, nice flat black or red which is nice because there didn't used to be a color choice. I have had no issues, would make a perfectly find commuter frame but its real home is on the trail.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  13. #13
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    240lbs and 6" rotors is a bad combo. I run in a clyde pack and even for XC guys are running 8's . I ran a cheapo A2Z rotor and it seemed to have more material to resist warping and overheating. As far as BB7's go after I went hydro the BB7's felt like V brakes in comparison - poor lever feel and too much fiddling. Not sure how well mechanical brakes (calipers) disspate heat. I ride DH w/ a 340lb. clyde aside from discolored rotors his Hope Moto 6's stop on a dime w/o any warpage.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
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    8 inch rotors are not a option with my frame or fork.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  15. #15
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    I'm 275 and run a 185mm clean sweep G3 on the front and a 160mm clean sweep G2 on the back. No problems with warping at all. I'm using Juicy 5s, though, not BB7s

  16. #16
    Happy in Happy Valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtolds
    8 inch rotors are not a option with my frame or fork.
    Even with an adapter? what fork are you running?
    Rigid Surly 1x1 650b--------Fixed CrossCheck--------Surly Pacer-------Salsa Ala Carte

  17. #17
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    It is a Dart 2, probably going to a Tora next year.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  18. #18
    cougarbait
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    floating, cross-drilled, and vented
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  19. #19
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    And i saw them for 150 dollars a piece, no thank you.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambdamaster
    floating, cross-drilled, and vented
    I don't think they are available in a size smaller than 203mm either.

  21. #21
    cougarbait
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    I think every other rotor is going to be more or less the same in terms of warp-resistance.
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  22. #22
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    In the end i am sure it will probably be fine, I will ride them till they need to actually be replaced. First ride with them was a very aggressive long fast fire road so it was very fast and all down hill.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  23. #23
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambdamaster

    floating, cross-drilled, and vented
    It should be noted that a "floating" rotor is one that is pinned to the aluminum carrier, and allowed to expand. A more traditional "one peice" rotor has no choice but to warp back on itself when it heats up, because it's held in place by the bolts that attach it to the hub. A "floating" rotor is free to expand radially when it heats up, keeping it from warping. I'm not going to say it's impossible to not warp, but the suggestion for the hope moto brakes is probably a good one from that perspective and from the vented perspective (heat dissipation). You could also just buy the hope floating rotors (not vented).

    The OP did say he's riding a dart 3 and that it can't take a bigger rotor, but on the other hand at that weight he's probably pushing that fork to the limit as well. The dart 3 is a low-end OEM fork that isn't mean to be pushed very hard.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  24. #24
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    I would suggest upping your rotor size to a 180mm if you are warping your rotors. The best rotors would have to be the hopes, hands down.
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  25. #25
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    Cool brake tips.
    roccowt.
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