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Thread: Rotor selection

  1. #1
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    Rotor selection

    Hi fellow bikers,
    I have a specialized camber comp that came with Tektro Drako brakes. I replaced the brakes with shimano deore which I absolutely love. However, they "take" quite late on the current rotors - which are the original tektro light wave rotors. I've bled the brakes thoroughly so its not a bleed issue. I took it into my LBS and the chap said I should look at replacing my rotors with thicker ones - such as Shimano ice tech.

    Before I spend the money - has anybody had any similar issues? I can't find thickness details on light wave and ice tech rotors so not sure. But if I were to find decent rotors that were minutely thicker it would make a big difference.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Hydraulic brakes self adjust, so as the pad wears, the brake adjusts for that wear.

    That's why you never grab the brake lever without a rotor in place, the pistons will set themselves up so they are pushed out. Same reason why when you replace pads you have to press the pistons back in to compensate for the new, and therefore thicker brake pads.

    So what's this mean? You're shop guy is keen to sell you Ice Tech rotors. Simple as that. Well, maybe not that simple, there could be something in it but I'm thinking not.

    The amount of difference between the thickness of 2 different brand rotors is going to be less than the amount of wear in new to old pads, so the brakes should set themselves up to work with the thinner rotor. Deores are a well regarded brake by the way, they should work regardless of the rotor thickness.

    When you say they "take quite late" do you mean it takes a while for the brake to grab, or the lever comes closer to the bar before the pads contact the rotor?

    It could be that the pads and rotor need to bed in to each other to get better power. Or that the pads or rotor aren't clean.

    Good luck. Keep us posted with whatever you find out when you've tried some more suggestions.

    Grumps

  3. #3
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    Thanks for a useful response Grumps. I'd made the salesman aware that I was going to buy online, so I don't think he had an agenda in this instance - but point taken.

    They "take" late in that it the brake lever is just about touching my knuckles once I start getting any power. They do provide quite a bit of stopping power by that stage, but I'd prefer not to have to pull the level 90% of they way before I start getting that power.

    clean pads/rotors could be an issue - for what its worth my brakes screech like mad so this could be a symptom of that. Will give them both a clean.

  4. #4
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    So you've bled the brakes and you're sure it's not a bleed issue. Hmm, does the problem get better or worse during a ride?

    I had some Avids that were crap for getting air in the system. The night before each ride I would get an elastic band, hold the lever closed and then tie it to the bars with the elastic band. That kept pressure in the system and any air bubbles would rise to the master cylinder in the lever. Next morning, the brakes were good as gold with plenty of feel at the lever.

    Try that, it might be some air trapped in the caliper.

    Hydro discs are really simple things in principle so unless there is something really idiosyncratic going on with the Deores, I just don't see why the rotor thickness should make that much difference when hydros self adjust to compensate for pad wear.

    Grumps

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