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  1. #1
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    Rotor rubs on pads when turning

    Bought some Avid BB7s for my all stock 2013 Trek Marlin. It seems that no matter what guide I use the rubbing still happens. I only hear it when I lean to one side during a turn. If I ride straight, no noise. I haven't had any crashes with the bike and bought it brand new.

    First I tried the directions that came with the BB7s in the manual. Then I tried this guide, still same thing. I made sure that I tighten each caliper screw a little bit at a time, going back and forth about 9 times. I torqued it to the proper in/lb too.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    not the brakes.. more likely the hub bearings are a tad loose wheel shifts when weight is twisted (you banking) guessing you have a Shimano hub? They are about the only cup and cone adjustable bearing hubs out there these day,... easy fix just need the cone wrenches and tighten the cone/axle...

    cone wrenches are reasonably cheap and a good investment with those types of hubs for service anyway...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the input. That's why I thought too. I have the Bikerepair app on my iPhone (got it when it was free a few days ago) and that was one of the possible causes. I'll get some cone wrenches.

    I was starting to lose my mind. Thanks for the help.

  4. #4
    007
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    Before you go to all that trouble . . . make sure your QR's are adequately tightened. Fork and/or frame flex will cause the exact same symptoms.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  5. #5
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Before you go to all that trouble . . . make sure your QR's are adequately tightened. Fork and/or frame flex will cause the exact same symptoms.
    ya.. what he said
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Before you go to all that trouble . . . make sure your QR's are adequately tightened. Fork and/or frame flex will cause the exact same symptoms.
    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    ya.. what he said
    The first time I tried to install the caliper I realized that the quick release was not fully tightened, but the next several attempts I had the quick release tight enough to leave a mark in my hand. Good call on suggesting it though.
    Last edited by Brave Little Toaster; 05-05-2013 at 05:04 PM.

  7. #7
    rebmem rbtm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brave Little Toaster View Post
    The first time I tried to install the caliper I realized that it was sort of loose, but the next several attempts I had it tight enough to leave a mark in my hand.
    Be careful not to over torque the bolts, people have striped the threads in the post mounts on forks by tightening the bolts too much.

    Avid BB7 Setup & Installation Guide: http://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2006_BB5and7_English.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by cobba View Post
    Be careful not to over torque the bolts, people have striped the threads in the post mounts on forks by tightening the bolts too much.

    Avid BB7 Setup & Installation Guide: http://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2006_BB5and7_English.pdf
    Sorry, when I said caliper I meant the quick release thing.

  9. #9
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    In the past when this happens I have just loosened the QR, let the wheel center itself again and re-tighten. Let us know the remedy

  10. #10
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    I bought this cone wrench set, which requires me to take off the rotor if I want to adjust the hub on my front wheel. It was very slightly loose when I took the rubber dust blockers out, but after adjusting it was smooth and had no play in it. I set up the caliper according to the instructions and torqued properly. I still hear the rubbing when leaning. I give up. Thanks anyway, at least I know how to adjust a hub now.

  11. #11
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brave Little Toaster View Post
    I bought this cone wrench set, which requires me to take off the rotor if I want to adjust the hub on my front wheel. It was very slightly loose when I took the rubber dust blockers out, but after adjusting it was smooth and had no play in it. I set up the caliper according to the instructions and torqued properly. I still hear the rubbing when leaning. I give up. Thanks anyway, at least I know how to adjust a hub now.
    What frame and fork do you have?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    What frame and fork do you have?
    Got me a 2013 Trek Marlin with a Suntour XCM fork. Low end fork, entry level bike.

    Edit: Forget it. I'm not going to give up. I'm gonna fix this mofo and not let it defeat me. If I end up finding the solution, I'll post it here.
    Last edited by Brave Little Toaster; 05-09-2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Cancelling my defeat

  13. #13
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brave Little Toaster View Post
    Got me a 2013 Trek Marlin with a Suntour XCM fork. Low end fork, entry level bike.

    Edit: Forget it. I'm not going to give up. I'm gonna fix this mofo and not let it defeat me. If I end up finding the solution, I'll post it here.
    And this is the front rotor thats giving you trouble? I'd bet you money its a problem with the fork . . . indeed it is a low end fork, and is probably flexing more than Arnold did at the Mr. Universe competition. The frame itself is a decent frame for sure, but the fork is certainly a weak-spot. Depending on your budget/long term goals, you can definitely find yourself a MUCH better fork for a couple hundred bucks.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    And this is the front rotor thats giving you trouble? I'd bet you money its a problem with the fork . . . indeed it is a low end fork, and is probably flexing more than Arnold did at the Mr. Universe competition. The frame itself is a decent frame for sure, but the fork is certainly a weak-spot. Depending on your budget/long term goals, you can definitely find yourself a MUCH better fork for a couple hundred bucks.
    Unfortunately it's both the front and the back. I really have no idea what it could be. Maybe some more riding will sort out the issue.

  15. #15
    007
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    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  16. #16
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    Could be that you've just set the pads too close to the rotor. It's impossible to eliminate flex entirely, but it's easy to get some clearance:

    If you hear the sound when turning right, the outboard pad (the one that moves) is too close. If you hear it when turning left, the inboard (stationary) pad is too close. I'm quite sure your problem will vanish by backing out one of the pads a click or three.

    I set my pads so that the inboard one is as close as possible (doesn't rub when turning aggressively) and I adjust the outboard pad to get the bite point to my preference.

  17. #17
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    Out of curiosity what type of QR are they? I had a similar situation a long time ago, purchased a set of reasonably priced shimano XT QR and it solved the problems. Turned out the cheap ones I had even though they were super tight to engage were not holding things completely tight when under load.

    Edit - also make sure the axle is squarly in the dropouts before activating the quick release, and that the dropouts are clean/free of debris.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Out of curiosity what type of QR are they? I had a similar situation a long time ago, purchased a set of reasonably priced shimano XT QR and it solved the problems. Turned out the cheap ones I had even though they were super tight to engage were not holding things completely tight when under load.

    Edit - also make sure the axle is squarly in the dropouts before activating the quick release, and that the dropouts are clean/free of debris.
    Really great suggestion. And cheap too.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  19. #19
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    Wow well that's an interesting thing I didn't think of. They're the ones that came with the crappy bontrager stock wheels. I guess I'll go pick up a couple soon. What's the worst that could happen, I got a couple of sweet new QRs?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    Could be that you've just set the pads too close to the rotor. It's impossible to eliminate flex entirely, but it's easy to get some clearance:

    If you hear the sound when turning right, the outboard pad (the one that moves) is too close. If you hear it when turning left, the inboard (stationary) pad is too close. I'm quite sure your problem will vanish by backing out one of the pads a click or three.

    I set my pads so that the inboard one is as close as possible (doesn't rub when turning aggressively) and I adjust the outboard pad to get the bite point to my preference.
    I already tried adjusting it but they still rub when they're close enough to still be able to brake effectively. Any farther than I tried and I won't have the stopping power that's considered safe.

  20. #20
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    Good point about the QR skewers - I've had a similar issue with boutique ones and I'm not making the same mistake again. For me it's enclosed units (like Shimano) or preferably thru-bolt, bolts or threaded axle and nuts.

    Might be a long shot but what levers are you using? If they are made for canti/caliper pull, could be that the pull ratio is too low and that's why you lose braking power before gaining sufficient clearance.

    But check that QR situation first to make sure it's as stiff as possible.

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