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  1. #1
    wafflemaster
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    Rotor bolts, grease or loctite

    Should I grease rotor bolts or use blue loctite? I just used anti-seize.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by furball
    Should I grease rotor bolts or use blue loctite? I just used anti-seize.
    I used grease once, it weeped onto the pads even though I used a very small amount. I then tried loctite. When I needed to remove the rotor, the soft bolt heads stripped out and I had to dig them out. I now use a small amount of teflon pipe compound on the threads. It doesnt weep on the disk and ruin the pads, and it won't glue the bolts in either. It keeps out water well also. It works wonders as a bedding compound for stems, bars, seatposts, headsets etc. Great for pedal threads.

  3. #3
    born again
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    Quote Originally Posted by furball
    Should I grease rotor bolts or use blue loctite? I just used anti-seize.
    Anti-sieze works well for me. Never had a bolt loosen and have been able to remove them easily later. Rotors get real hot and grease would likely overheat and vaporize.
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  4. #4
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    Small amount of blue loctite. Unless you're using those terrible weight weenie alu bolts, you won't have a problem removing them. The loctite also acts as an antisieze, while making sure the bolt won't loosen.

    You don't want those bolts coming out.

  5. #5
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    Small amount of blue loctite on the first few threads. Unless you're using those terrible weight weenie alu bolts, you won't have a problem removing them. The loctite also acts as an antisieze, while making sure the bolt won't loosen.

    You don't want those bolts coming out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by furball
    Should I grease rotor bolts or use blue loctite? I just used anti-seize.

    I do not use anything on mine at all, instead I use a torque wrench and torque the bolts to the manufacture speciifications. I have NEVER had a bolt back out on me, or stripped the head or the bolt either. A good quality torx socket helps with the stripping.

    If I was forced to use grease or loctite I would choose loctite.

    TJ

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbgrasshopper
    Small amount of blue loctite on the first few threads. Unless you're using those terrible weight weenie alu bolts, you won't have a problem removing them. The loctite also acts as an antisieze, while making sure the bolt won't loosen.

    You don't want those bolts coming out.
    Hmmm. I've not seen published that Loctite acts as an antisieze. I realize that you don't want the screws coming out but you don't want the screws to corrode into the hub either. I think if you torque them to spec they won't back out. I put antisieze on mine. It's too easy to strip out the heads of those screws. The Hayes manual for my brakes doesn't mention using Loctite, antisieze, or lube on the threads (it doesn't say not to use them either).

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee
    Hmmm. I've not seen published that Loctite acts as an antisieze. I realize that you don't want the screws coming out but you don't want the screws to corrode into the hub either. I think if you torque them to spec they won't back out. I put antisieze on mine. It's too easy to strip out the heads of those screws. The Hayes manual for my brakes doesn't mention using Loctite, antisieze, or lube on the threads (it doesn't say not to use them either).
    The primary function of loctite is not as anti-sieze, but it does work while adding friction to the threads as it hardens and expands to fill the gaps in the fasteners.

    Siezing is a product of electrocatalytic corrosion and can be a result of dissimilar metals interacting, or even the build up of salts in the areas of two similar mating metals. Anti sieze minimizes the metal to metal contact, while loctite coats the threads and does the same thing. A bolt that is thoroughly loctited will not sieze. It will simply have to be removed with greater torque, or in the case of the permanent red types, heat.

    Hope this helps.

  9. #9
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    no sence of adventure??

    Quote Originally Posted by 1niceride
    I used grease once, it weeped onto the pads even though I used a very small amount. I then tried loctite. When I needed to remove the rotor, the soft bolt heads stripped out and I had to dig them out. I now use a small amount of teflon pipe compound on the threads. It doesnt weep on the disk and ruin the pads, and it won't glue the bolts in either. It keeps out water well also. It works wonders as a bedding compound for stems, bars, seatposts, headsets etc. Great for pedal threads.
    I have to ride my bike through the salted roads to get to my riding grounds. I try to wash it good after I get back, but salt finds a way in unless I use pipe compound on my fasteners. I used loctite and after 2 years of riding, they were corroded in. Never happens with dope ( tried not to use that word....)

  10. #10
    Riding free's the mind
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    rotors bolt came with loctite

    My Avid Juicy rotor bolts came pre coated with something that looks like plumbers teflon white tape on them. When i screw the bolts in, it feels like loctite. For the application of rotor bolts, I can't think of a better place to have some kind of loctite added. The blue stuff works great.
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  11. #11
    pj.
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    Yep, medium strength Loctite, if applied correctly will seal out water and corrosion.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by HTail
    My Avid Juicy rotor bolts came pre coated with something that looks like plumbers teflon white tape on them. When i screw the bolts in, it feels like loctite. For the application of rotor bolts, I can't think of a better place to have some kind of loctite added. The blue stuff works great.
    Ditto. I use bolts from Maggies on my Formula rotors. Two sets came with brown thread locker on the bolts.

  13. #13
    nnn
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    So THATS why my rotor bolts had a bit of blue paint on em initially, I thought it was just for proof that they're brand new, never thought about the paint acting as anti-seize hehe

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