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  1. #1
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    Realignning front caliper each time front wheelset installed

    Hi all,
    currently I matched a pair of Mavic Crossride wheel set with Elixir R. It is common for all of us that when we install a new brake we have to align its caliper position against rotor so the pads are centered and will hold rotor only when brake levers being pulled. This procedure was carried well until I uninstall my front wheel (for transportation, cleaning purpose, etc) and install it again. Caliper position that was properly aligned suddenly are corrected and make one of the pads touches front rotor. This after-reinstalling condition forces me realigning my front caliper... reinstall front wheel, realigned front caliper... reinstall front wheel, realigned front caliper...arrghhh... it makes me dizzy finding out the cause... Any of you ever had this problem.? would you please share your experience and/or your solution..? please help me and maybe other MTBer's out there from other side of the world that may need this information. FYI the wheels and brakes were both bought new so I think failure due to worn-out can be left out and I can sure you when I install a wheelset its position is correctly secured on its drop out. thx

  2. #2
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    I have a Mavic SLR and a shimano XTR wheelset.

    I switch back and forth between the two wheel sets.

    I normally donot have to do anything to adjust the caliper to eliminate pad rub.

    I would suggest that when reinstalling thw wheel put the bike upside down and force the axle strongly into the dropouts. The do up the QR to the same tension while pushing the wheel into the dropouts.

  3. #3
    Hi.
    Reputation: jtmartino's Avatar
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    It sounds like your pads are moving when the wheel is off the bike. I recommend not grabbing the brake lever while the wheel is off, and using a spacer if you have one. It's unlikely that the whole caliper is shifting on the fork unless you're slamming your bike around while the wheel is off.

    I've also heard about people's brakes becoming mis-aligned due to temperature differences causing the hydraulic fluid to compress and swell, but we're talking significant temp. changes.

  4. #4
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    The spacer is a good idea. Or you may just try forcing the pads open a little before you install the wheel.

  5. #5
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    Are you by chance riding hard on a cheap fork or crashed real hard? I ask because my friend has this exact same problem, we checked just about every thing, the only thing left that it may be on his bike is misaligned dropouts.

  6. #6
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    or improperly worn dropouts.

    If it's the rear wheel, I would've said there's a nut on the rotor side that adjusts axle width but the front's nut should be tight

  7. #7
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    I use to have this prolem when I was running a 9mm QR front end. Now that I'm on a thru axle it never happens.

  8. #8
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    Use XT skewers and install the wheels w/ the bike flipped over - push the wheel into the dropout when tightening.

  9. #9
    simply me
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    The problem may be uneven faces on the hub axles. When u re-install the wheel and you get the mis-alignment try loosening the quick release, rotating the axle with your finger a quarter turn then tightening the quick release again.

  10. #10
    Tool
    Reputation: Pedalphile's Avatar
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    This happened with my old Super V, which had rim brakes, but it was the same deal - whenever I took my wheels off and reinstalled them, I would get bad brake rub.

    What worked for me was to simply ride the bike around the driveway a bit after putting the wheels on, making sure to do a few bunny hops to subject the wheels to a little force. After a few hops the wheels would seat back to where they wouldn't rub the brakes.

    I never experimented with a way to eliminate the problem since the workaround was so easy. The root cause is definitely the axle/dropout interface.

    -Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  11. #11
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    Brake Rotor Rubbing Pads

    Index your hub axle to your fork.

    Ensure your wheel axle is firmly in the dropout and the retention mech is properly tightened. Usually loosening the retention mech and wigglying the wheel side to side with the bike in the normal wheels down position and then with a hand on the stem pushing down and a uniform tightening of the retention mech is sufficient.

    Now...


    Take a marker and put a dot/line parallel with the axle on one side of the external cone/dropout biter. What you want to do is have a reference to how the axle is orientated in the dropout frame.

    Place a mark on the fork leg or extend the line on to the fork leg. Now when you reassemble the front wheel and fork ensure you line these two marks up.

    Now with the two marks lined up readjust the caliper so that you are happy with as little as rub as possible, feel free to tweak the rotor if it is really out, take the proper tool or a clean crescent wrench and gently and slightly move it away from the rubbing side.

    Get the rotor and caliper happy and tighten it up as usual.

    Now, hopefully every time you reassemble the bike, line it up and things should be ok, however realize that if you are bending the rotor each ride you will have to still adj it, just hopefully less frequently.

  12. #12
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
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    I agree with all the above and...

    Try to get a feel for the same tension every time you lock down q/r lever. Use quality parts

  13. #13
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    I found that rotating the axle ~90 degrees usually fixed this. I assumed that one part of the locknut had a slightly higher point on it than other areas and the fork (and therefore the caliper too) would sit slightly closer or further away from the rotor.

    Tim

  14. #14
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    Thanks to you all for the responses, When I'm installing wheelset I always put my bike upside down, do that all the time as always as I put spacer into my caliper whenever I go carrying my bike with its wheels put off. I know Cross Trail is not the highest end product in the market but it's not the low one either I think when it brings Mavic name along we can agree that it has good quality. Anyway a few days ago I tried inspecting my wheels, and it results in when I put my wheel on to fork (mine is Vanila R) in the first place with loosen QR the condition was normal, wheels could spin perfectly but when I was tightening QR what I saw was that my wheel moved very slightly to the right so it touched inner pad. Ok, so I realigned my caliper with my thought that if it always moved right then it would be no more alignment. put off my wheel, rolled it few times to get random condition then installed it back. Surprisingly now my wheel moved slightly to left, maybe it backed to previous position, leaving my outer pad rubbed the rotor. So from my inspection I saw that my wheel could move slightly to either side (left or right) while I was tightening QR. I wonder, could it be the bearing inside? but I bought it new... Anyhow I will try what you suggested and post what it come up with.

  15. #15
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    Huka,
    You are not alone. I have the same problem with my Fox RL fork / Stroker Trail combo. Over the past 3 years I've had 4 different sets of wheels (3 pair of Bontrager Rhythms and a set of Stan's 355's with Hope Pro II hubs) and every set has been hard to set up consistently. It sucks but I think it's more common than people let on. Maybe it's time for me to switch to a thru axle fork. Just my $.02
    Last edited by ppfeifer; 02-06-2011 at 03:26 PM.

  16. #16
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    In case you want some mavic info, this link shows how to access the service manuals.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15102050

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