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  1. #1
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    Problem with Hayes brakes sticking

    I have a Jamis Dakar xlt that came with Hayes hydrolic brakes. I have not been able to adjust the brakes so they don't rub. My lbs told me that its almost impossible to get Hayes brakes not to rub. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Not True...

    Quote Originally Posted by Sticks140
    I have a Jamis Dakar xlt that came with Hayes hydrolic brakes. I have not been able to adjust the brakes so they don't rub. My lbs told me that its almost impossible to get Hayes brakes not to rub. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?

    Thanks!
    I don't think the brakes should rub. My Hayes took some fussing with, but they work fine without any rub. My riding buddies don't have a problem with theirs either... It did take some patience - I'm an amateur with disk brakes - I can't believe a LBS would have any problem.

    Does the rotor need straightening?

    Do the tabs need aligning?

    This sounds like someone took the "L" out of "LBS"...

    Tell me more...

    GEVELTERSCHMIDT RACING

  3. #3
    something
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    I have the hydo hayes disc brakes on my bike and don't have any problems with them. If you need tips setting them up properly try the FAQ at the top right of this page also read the teck tips on http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/

    I am not an expert, but if you have specific questions there are lots of good people on these boards that will help. Just ask away.
    "POLICE STATION TOILET STOLEN ... Cops have nothing to go on."

  4. #4
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    Thanks for replying. It's good to hear that it's possible to fix, but I've brought the bike back to my lbs that sold it to me twice and they kept it for a week and they still rubbed. My local lbs looked at them and did a quick adjustment by loosening two adjuster screws, and retightened them while pressing down on the brake lever. I'm a total amateur when it comes to working on hydrolics. I've read alot of bad reviews on the HFX 9's and I'm wondering if I'd be better off replacing them. However they have only been ridden 9 or 10 times so I kills me to have to replace something that is almost new.

    Any suggestions??

  5. #5
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    Take the wheel off and the pads out.
    Carefully push the pistons back in as far as they will go, dont force them just use steady pressure.
    Reinstall the brake pads.
    Put the wheel back on.
    Get two buisness cards and place one on each side between the disc and the brake pad.
    Pump the brake lever a few times to reset everything.

    This will reset the brake pads but leave a bit of room between them and the rotor.

    Hope this helps. Further explnation of this is on the Hayes site. Let us know how this works out.

    Jeremy
    "POLICE STATION TOILET STOLEN ... Cops have nothing to go on."

  6. #6
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    Now that sounds like it just might work. Thanks man!! I'll give it a try.

  7. #7
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    How do you best back the pistons out?

    I often have a hard time getting my pistons to go all the way back into the bore. I use the prescribed 10mm closed wrench, but the piston always seems to wander out a little. Do I have too much fluid? My brakes are over a year old and do fairly well. The rear rubs and is somewhat finicky - the front not normally such.
    I replaced the pads tonight and the front seemed like it would absolutely not go on without rubbing.
    Any ideas?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesterrider
    I often have a hard time getting my pistons to go all the way back into the bore. I use the prescribed 10mm closed wrench, but the piston always seems to wander out a little. Do I have too much fluid? My brakes are over a year old and do fairly well. The rear rubs and is somewhat finicky - the front not normally such.
    I replaced the pads tonight and the front seemed like it would absolutely not go on without rubbing.
    Any ideas?
    It's very possible that you have too much fluid in the system. A buddy of mine had the exact same problem with the pistons not pushing back into the caliper. The LBS bleed them and now they're perfect... no rub.

    Btw, my friend's brakes came that way from Hayes or the shop he bought it from because he has never worked on them before.

    I have a pair of Hayes pads (brand new) that I got brake fluid on. I now use these to perform all my bleeds. I'll install them and them jam a Hayes Anti-Fallout Transport Clip in between the pads with the wheel off. That plastic clip seems to be the perfect thickness; It's a little thicker than a rotor. Works perfectly every time.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slack
    It's very possible that you have too much fluid in the system. A buddy of mine had the exact same problem with the pistons not pushing back into the caliper. The LBS bleed them and now they're perfect... no rub.

    Btw, my friend's brakes came that way from Hayes or the shop he bought it from because he has never worked on them before.

    I have a pair of Hayes pads (brand new) that I got brake fluid on. I now use these to perform all my bleeds. I'll install them and them jam a Hayes Anti-Fallout Transport Clip in between the pads with the wheel off. That plastic clip seems to be the perfect thickness; It's a little thicker than a rotor. Works perfectly every time.
    COOL - thanks for the details - I think after the main biking season I'll take them in for bleeding and monitor fluid levels!
    btw - where could I get an anti fallout transport clip?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesterrider
    COOL - thanks for the details - I think after the main biking season I'll take them in for bleeding and monitor fluid levels!
    btw - where could I get an anti fallout transport clip?

    http://cambriabike.com/brakes/hayes_...e_adapters.htm

    About 2/3rds down the page.

  11. #11
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    Thanks!

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