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mtbr member
Reputation:
opinions about the shimano XT brakes
so i recently bought some shimano xt brakes in order to replace my hayes stroker trails.....after i got them put on and hose's cut to length, i started to have problems with the lever feel, the front isnt bad and grabs pretty good but the rear feels squishy and the lever isnt firm as it should. i like my hayes alot better because of the power and better lever feel. the power is some what the same but the hayes pulled alil better in power.....i have no clue on what to do at this point, im debating going back to my hayes since i liked them alittle better...any ideas on what to do?
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Bleed the rear brake again.
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Did you bleed them after you trimmed the lines? I know it isn't always necessary but I trimmed mine and got away with it but my levers are not lacking any pull whatsoever. Did you replace the olives when you trimmed? Maybe try a bleed and see if that solves your problem.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
ya both got bleed i mean i just dont understand that the front feels good and grabs with no problem but the rear i have to pull alittle harder for it to lock up and grab, i know i was hearing the lines expand giving it not a good feel at the lever
Last edited by konajumper; 02-02-2013 at 05:45 PM.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by AlienRFX
Bleed the rear brake again.
another vote for a rebleed. sounds like air in the lines
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mtbr member
Reputation:
opinions about the shimano XT brakes
Bleed them again.
You could also try adjusting the free stroke in a little. Small screw on the lever marked Free Stroke.
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I'm not sure when they were manufactured, but before April of last year Shimano was having problems with the banjo fitting leaking on the rear XT brake. My SS in the shop right now having it replaced under warrenty. May be a long shot but could be your problem since you said it was the rear giving you problems.
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opinions about the shimano XT brakes
Yep, see that thread further down in this section. The banjo nut thing has been an issue but warrantied in most situations. What's crazy is even with that issue I'd buy them again. Best brakes I've ever ridden hands down. Great value for price.
2011 Santa Cruz Nomad
2011 Specialized P1
1999 GT Zaskar
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mtbr member
Reputation:
Bleed again, but this time with the caliper from the frame.
Keep it in a similar position as the front brake.
The brakeline should be the heighest position, to allow air to go up to the reservoir.
Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
i would also look at the alignment of the caliper,
put a small amount of copper grease under the washers between the caliper as i had trouble with no power from the rear and this fixed it. it wasn't out by much near undetectable. now not spongy and very powerful
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mtbr member
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by blingman
i would also look at the alignment of the caliper,
put a small amount of copper grease under the washers between the caliper as i had trouble with no power from the rear and this fixed it. it wasn't out by much near undetectable. now not spongy and very powerful
I'm little confused, where exactly did you put the copper grease?
I'm trying to narrow down the problem with my M665 SLX brakes at the moment.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
Hi, the bolts(capscrews) that shimano supply to hold the caliper on to the adapter have a non removable washer, the copper(high heat) grease goes between the head of the bolt and the washer. they are not made very accurate and when u tighten them up the washer can skid the caliper sideways. just dont use too much just a smear is enough.
let us know how u get on.
good luck.
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Some sort of install error. Likely air in the system as mentioned above.
I had Hayes Stroker Carbons before going XT. The Hayes are "good" brakes, but the XT are vastly superior in terms of both power and modulation when installed correctly.
'95 M2 StumpJumper FS
'11 Cannondale RZ 120-two
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mtbr member
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by blingman
Hi, the bolts(capscrews) that shimano supply to hold the caliper on to the adapter have a non removable washer, the copper(high heat) grease goes between the head of the bolt and the washer. they are not made very accurate and when u tighten them up the washer can skid the caliper sideways. just dont use too much just a smear is enough.
let us know how u get on.
good luck.
Thanks for information!
I finally figured out my issue, the rotor was glazed.
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