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Thread: Oil on pads

  1. #1
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    Oil on pads

    Some oil leaked onto my pads will I was bleeding my brakes. I'll probably just replace them with new pads but might try one or two things first.
    What's the best thing to try to do to clean it off? In the past I've used sand paper and rubbing alcohol which works ok. I also saw these recommendations in the FAQ:

    There are a few things you can try.....you can boil your pads in a pot of hot water, you can run them in the dishwasher, you can cook them in the oven, or you can cook them with a blow torch……none of which are condoned by any brake maker.

  2. #2
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    Old fry pan medium heat about 15 mins, wait till they stop smoking....

    Turn on the fan if you want .

    Light sanding to remove the ash and carbon

  3. #3
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    Buy new pads...... your safety is worth it.
    Monte
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  4. #4
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by STT GUY View Post
    Buy new pads...... your safety is worth it.
    This. Why people even bother to try and save a $25 set of brake pads when they KNOW they are contaminated is beyond me.

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    Alright, new pads it is.

  6. #6
    ballbuster
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    ??!?!??

    Quote Originally Posted by STT GUY View Post
    Buy new pads...... your safety is worth it.


    Wow... fear monger much?!?

    What safety? Is the oil going to spontaneously spring back on the pad? They're either contaminated... which you figure out pretty fast right there in your driveway, or they're fixed... unless your brakes leak on them again. But, then you'll have is the same issue with brand new pads, as with decontaminated pads.

    I use either a Propane torch or jet style pocket lighter. Light sanding, maybe some Brake Kleen, clean the rotors too,... done. Works great.

    I have no idea why people throw out pads when they get contaminated when they are so easy to clean. It's like throwing out your car instead of washing it.

    Heh... once I had a fitting open up on me in Tahoe, dumping a bit of brake fluid on the pad. I actually just kept applying the one brake until I got it crazy hot, and burned off the oil. Worked well enough to finish the ride safely (but it was pretty noisy until I got a proper cleaning done).

    I have 3 bikes with disc brakes... two sets of XTRs one set of Hope Mono Mini. I've done this procedure probably 8 times over the last 8 years for various reasons, and never had one issue, never had to re-do it (except when I had repeated banjo fitting failures... not the pad's fault). If I did, I carry spare brake pads in my Camelbak and I have two brakes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    I have no idea why people throw out pads when they get contaminated when they are so easy to clean. It's like throwing out your car instead of washing it.
    I suppose it is....if your car cost £7
    Bin them.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post


    Wow... fear monger much?!?

    What safety? Is the oil going to spontaneously spring back on the pad? They're either contaminated... which you figure out pretty fast right there in your driveway, or they're fixed... unless your brakes leak on them again. But, then you'll have is the same issue with brand new pads, as with decontaminated pads.

    I use either a Propane torch or jet style pocket lighter. Light sanding, maybe some Brake Kleen, clean the rotors too,... done. Works great.

    I have no idea why people throw out pads when they get contaminated when they are so easy to clean. It's like throwing out your car instead of washing it.

    Heh... once I had a fitting open up on me in Tahoe, dumping a bit of brake fluid on the pad. I actually just kept applying the one brake until I got it crazy hot, and burned off the oil. Worked well enough to finish the ride safely (but it was pretty noisy until I got a proper cleaning done).

    I have 3 bikes with disc brakes... two sets of XTRs one set of Hope Mono Mini. I've done this procedure probably 8 times over the last 8 years for various reasons, and never had one issue, never had to re-do it (except when I had repeated banjo fitting failures... not the pad's fault). If I did, I carry spare brake pads in my Camelbak and I have two brakes.
    I know, it's crazy fear mongering wanting solid performing brakes and to know 100% that they will work as designed by offering the power and modulation they were designed to give. Call me the crazy guy with prfectly functiong brakes.
    Monte
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  9. #9
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    I still like riding down a big shallow hill at moderate speed to burn off contamination. It's neat feeling them come back as the gunk burns off and they dry out.

    If I threw away pads every time I contaminated them a little bit, I'd have spent a couple hundred dollars on pads. Mostly not even from myself. People tend to not be careful with tri-flow in an aerosol can for some reason.

    -Eric

  10. #10
    ballbuster
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    So...

    Quote Originally Posted by STT GUY View Post
    I know, it's crazy fear mongering wanting solid performing brakes and to know 100% that they will work as designed by offering the power and modulation they were designed to give. Call me the crazy guy with prfectly functiong brakes.
    ... clean your pads properly and that is exactly what you'll get. Duh.

    Believe me, I'm 215 pounds on 160mm rotors on weight weenie brakes slamming down lots of steeps. I know exactly to the single BTU where the limits of my brakes are. Okay, that was a bit of hyperbole.... but yeah, I know what I can do and what I can't. I know exactly where the line is. Cleaned pads are the exact same thing as new pads. I'm Mr Safety, and the last thing I like is a surprise on the trail.

    If you wanna set fire to your cash at the LBS, I guess that is largely a good thing for the economy. They could use the income.
    Last edited by pimpbot; 09-22-2011 at 09:38 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    ... clean your pads properly and that is exactly what you'll get. Duh.
    If you wanna set fire to your cash at the LBS, I guess that is largely a good thing for the economy. They could use the income.
    Or buy your pads online 4 sets for £25/$38 and throw away the contaminated?Then again I've run hydraulic brakes for around 6/7 years and never contaminated any
    I don't repair tubes either If I get a flat on the trail I replace the tube and bin the punctured one when I get home....life's too short and consumables are cheap

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibbo View Post
    Or buy your pads online 4 sets for £25/$38 and throw away the contaminated?Then again I've run hydraulic brakes for around 6/7 years and never contaminated any
    I don't repair tubes either If I get a flat on the trail I replace the tube and bin the punctured one when I get home....life's too short and consumables are cheap
    Face it most time the oil gets on by accident, so to finish the job and have a rideable bike, the fry pan gets you there in 15 minutes...

    Bingo now you can go for a ride, and pick up the brake pads when you get a chance (if you even need to)....

    You might even be able to ride to the bike shop to get the pads...

    Course you could always order them on-line and wait till they show up....personnally I ride way too much for that.

  13. #13
    ballbuster
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    Nah, tried that

    Quote Originally Posted by ibbo View Post
    Or buy your pads online 4 sets for £25/$38 and throw away the contaminated?Then again I've run hydraulic brakes for around 6/7 years and never contaminated any
    I don't repair tubes either If I get a flat on the trail I replace the tube and bin the punctured one when I get home....life's too short and consumables are cheap
    The quality of mystery brand pads bought online is spotty at best. The only aftermarket pad I liked were Kool Stop Reds for my Hope Mono Minis. All other brands I tried sucked, overheated, glazed, made crazy noise. etc. I unfortunately have to stick with Hope semi-metallic pads which are $$$$ and hard to find. On the plus side, a set seems to last me forever.

    I use XTR $$$emi-Metallic$ on all of my Shimano brakes, but like the Hope pads, they seem to last me forever. I'm honestly kind of afraid of setting fire to any more of my money with other brands when the factory pads have worked so well for me.

    I have a little jar of slightly used pads on my garage shelf. I keep one set of crappy pads in my camelback in case I have some sort of failure on the trail, like a separated back. Hasn't happened to me yet, but it happened to a bud of mine .I did wear my pads down so far the rotor ate the anti-rattle spring once. I thought there was still enough meat for a couple rides... and I was wrong.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by STT GUY View Post
    Buy new pads...... your safety is worth it.
    Oh yeah! Throw 25 bucks at a 50 cent problem. Thatll do it.

    @ the OP. The heating method will work. Too involved for me though. Personally, I'd soak it a few times in solvent. Believe it or not, brake cleaner works wonders on brakes The immediate oil will dissipate in the solvent, the deeper oil in the pads, if any will bake off in use.

    Believe it or not, brakes need lubrication too

  15. #15
    007
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing! View Post
    Oh yeah! Throw 25 bucks at a 50 cent problem. Thatll do it.

    @ the OP. The heating method will work. Too involved for me though. Personally, I'd soak it a few times in solvent. Believe it or not, brake cleaner works wonders on brakes The immediate oil will dissipate in the solvent, the deeper oil in the pads, if any will bake off in use.

    Believe it or not, brakes need lubrication too
    Okay, I'm not questioning you on this, but this seems to be such a simple fix to a really common problem and yet I've not read about it before

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Okay, I'm not questioning you on this, but this seems to be such a simple fix to a really common problem and yet I've not read about it before
    Can't say I invented it.

    Description - Features & Benefits
    Quickly removes brake dust, brake fluid, grease and other contaminants from all types of brake systems including ABS.
    • Safe on most automotive plastics
    • Degreases instantly
    • Leaves no residue
    • Non-flammable


    Ive used it on stanchion oil, tri-flow (the pulleys can drip when the bike is inverted ) and brake fluid contamination. If the contamination is from light oil, you can simply blast the caliper. Heavier oil requires a soaking. A few minutes will do. A resoak if its really bad.

  17. #17
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    i got some teflon lubricant on my rear disc accidentally and was able to hit it with general purpose bike degreaser, let it dry a few minutes and went for a spin. after a couple hard stops, good to go.
    Gary Fisher HiFi Deluxe 29er

  18. #18
    ballbuster
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    I'll guess...

    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Okay, I'm not questioning you on this, but this seems to be such a simple fix to a really common problem and yet I've not read about it before
    You haven't used the search function. It's come up about half a zillion times on these boards.

    Sorry, didn't mean that to sound snarky.

  19. #19
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    how exactly does the baking/frying method work? do you put the pad braking surface up or down? does the fry pan also have to be completely clean?

    how about baking them in an oven?

  20. #20
    Look at the time!
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    The baking method can result in your pads suddenly coming off the carrier plates. I've seen it. The guy was riding in front of me when his back brake pads came apart and he ate it hard (rolled down a steep bank off the side of the trail and landed in some trees).
    He'd "burned out" the pads the day before. Maybe he got them too hot, maybe they were crappy pads, and maybe you just shouldn't burn out pads. Who knows.

    I've burned out pads myself in a pinch, but i never feel all that good about it.... and very often the pads will start acting up again after a while, especially when they get wet, because little droplets of oil were still caught somewhere in there and eventually surface. They are made of a very very porous material and you can't always get every last bit of oil out.


    So to sum it up, get new pads.
    wanted: Cannondale Lefty w/ V-brake studs

  21. #21
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    30 seconds in a deep fryer should do the trick!
    Grit, spit, and a whole lot of duct tape!

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