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  1. #1
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    No lever resistance after bleeding MT6.

    I shortened the lines and must have gotten air in the lines, even tho I tried so hard not to! Anyways the brakes needed bleeding and I flushed both well, till no bubbles. Watched the you tube video as well just prior, did exactly how Magura says. I have done before on my old Marta's, so I am not a complete noob.

    So what the heck. How am I not getting all the air out? Never struggled this much with bleeding, even an old pair of hope minis years ago.

    What am I doing wrong?

    Warm regards,

    Puffy

  2. #2
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    Did you take them off the bike, so you have a straight vertical line upwards, so all the bubbles can escape easily?

  3. #3
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    Tried that and same issues. When I depress the lever I hear a squishy sound, like squeezing a sponge, not feel, sound. Idk what's going on.

  4. #4
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    Re: No lever resistance after bleeding MT6.

    Leaking sound first comes To mind

    Sent from my S3 using Tapatalk 2

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by popoycanton View Post
    Leaking sound first comes To mind

    Sent from my S3 using Tapatalk 2
    in order to get a good bleed,after removing all air bubbles, i had to pressurize at the caliper after removing the one at the lever and buttoning it up. I could hear a hissing noise at the lever with this.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrickd72 View Post
    Tried that and same issues. When I depress the lever I hear a squishy sound, like squeezing a sponge, not feel, sound. Idk what's going on.
    This sounds like when fluid gets between the back of the master cylinder and the handlebar. There is a weep hole there and that causes the squishy sound.

    Some of the MT6 and MT8 is currently under recall. Might want to check on the Magura site to see if yours need to be sent in. Probably doesn't have to do with your issue, but it's worth looking into. I sent my MT8s in and the replacement master had a few changes.

    Haven't had any issues bleeding the MT's here.

  7. #7
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    I checked awhile back and they are not. But something's up. I did see a procedure to pressurize the master, so i may try that. But I have done everything right I believe and it shouldn't be this hard.

    Frustrating.

  8. #8
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    If you have no bite point at all the procedure is being done wrong or there's a issue with the brake itself.

    I had to try alot of times before I got a grasp of how to do it and I ended up with no bite point at all a few times, just as you. I still can't manage to set the brakes as they come from the factory using Maguras manual so I really do not know what kind of magic they use. Perhaps Jude can chime in on this?

    I'll post the steps on how I bleez in the morning.

  9. #9
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    Post away, I need a solution.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I had to try alot of times before I got a grasp of how to do it and I ended up with no bite point at all a few times, just as you. I still can't manage to set the brakes as they come from the factory
    .
    i managed to dial in the front better than the factory with less lever travel using a slightly(1 0r 2 mm) smaller spacer and correct bleeding. For some reason rear is a little more difficult

  11. #11
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hey Puffy, sorry you are having issues.

    First, since you have bled the brakes a couple times now and aren't a newbie with Magura brakes, I would suggest checking the caliper pistons for stickiness.

    You didn't say but I assume before shortening the lines, the brakes were fine??
    So, before trying another bleed, with the wheel removed (rotor out of the way) pump the brake pads completely together with the lever blade and watch for movement. Do both pads move together nicely or is one obviously hesitant and stays stationary in the caliper bore?
    This is one way to assure the piston seals are lubricated and not affecting the feel of the brake. If only one piston moves, this exaggerates the lever blade movement making it feel as thought there is air in the system.

    Hold the previously observed freely moving piston back in its caliper bore, pump the lever blade again and allow the stuck piston to break free.
    I do this with a tire lever wedged in the slot where the rotor would spin holding the previously free piston/pad. Push the now freed piston back again in its bore and repeat to assure the seals are lubed. You should have a good lever feel now and if not we would need to look elsewhere for a solution.

    The squishy noise is just from fluid that has found its way between the MC and the handlebar, slightly blocking the "weep" hole. Beneath this weep hole is a bladder that slightly pulsates when the lever blade is actuated, thus making the noise. Nothing to worry about however and you can silence the squishy sound by removing the MC and cleaning the area thoroughly with alcohol and letting it dry.

    Let me know id you need a little more assistance. Good luck.
    Jude

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