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  1. #1
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    New wheelset, Stroker Trails won't stop dragging.

    I picked up a new wheel set for my bike and got some new rotors to put on as well. Thought was that I would have two usable wheel sets anytime I wanted. I'm having some problems with the front brake though. Same rotor as the old wheel set, but it keeps dragging no matter how I fiddle with it. Looking in to the caliper with the rotor between the pads it looks as if there is absolutely no room. Any solution to this?

  2. #2
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    Try pushing the caliper pistons deeper/back into their seat in the caliper body. When they are fully retracted, you should have plenty of room for the rotor.
    White Clouds - Heart of Idaho

  3. #3
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    What you describe doesn't make sense to me. The new rotor should only be negligibly thicker. Only thing I can think of is the hub/rotor spacing is different so you'll need to realign calipers.

    try this:
    -push pistons back
    -loosen mount bolts
    -squeeze lever (may take a couple squeezes to clamp on rotor)
    -then tighten mount bolts (while still squeezing lever) making sure you don't screw up the alignment while tightening. you can tighten each bolt a little at a time to make sure

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudflap
    Try pushing the caliper pistons deeper/back into their seat in the caliper body. When they are fully retracted, you should have plenty of room for the rotor.
    That seemed to help a little but they are still dragging slightly, not once per revolution or something like that, but constantly throughout the revolution.


    Quote Originally Posted by vk45de
    What you describe doesn't make sense to me. The new rotor should only be negligibly thicker. Only thing I can think of is the hub/rotor spacing is different so you'll need to realign calipers.

    try this:
    -push pistons back
    -loosen mount bolts
    -squeeze lever (may take a couple squeezes to clamp on rotor)
    -then tighten mount bolts (while still squeezing lever) making sure you don't screw up the alignment while tightening. you can tighten each bolt a little at a time to make sure
    I've done this many times before (-pushing pistons back, which I just tried a couple times.) And tried a few more a minute ago, but I am still getting the same results, a dragging throughout the revolution.

  5. #5
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    Get two .015 feeler gauges stick them between the pads and rotor. Put a section of hose on the bleed nipple on the caliper then open the bleed, fluid should rise into the hose. Snug bleed carefully remove hose have a rag handy because the fluid will drain out the hose. Remove the feeler gauges go ride.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Get two .015 feeler gauges stick them between the pads and rotor. Put a section of hose on the bleed nipple on the caliper then open the bleed, fluid should rise into the hose. Snug bleed carefully remove hose have a rag handy because the fluid will drain out the hose. Remove the feeler gauges go ride.
    Thanks dogon, I'll have to try that later tonight (off to go help someone with some wiring in their house). Where can I get a .015 Feeler gauge? I'm assuming it's just a metal shim. Something harbor freight might have?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Thanks dogon, I'll have to try that later tonight (off to go help someone with some wiring in their house). Where can I get a .015 Feeler gauge? I'm assuming it's just a metal shim. Something harbor freight might have?
    You got it, they are used for checking valve lash and such, one person said if you drink a beer then cut the aluminum fold it in half it's dang close, I havent tried this yet but sounds logical.

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cat...ler-gauge-sets
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    You got it, they are used for checking valve lash and such, one person said if you drink a beer then cut the aluminum fold it in half it's dang close, I havent tried this yet but sounds logical.

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cat...ler-gauge-sets
    isnt coke the same can - do you guys drink so much more beer than coke that a can = beer can

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by vk45de
    isnt coke the same can - do you guys drink so much more beer than coke that a can = beer can
    Coke cans are different, all correct measurements are done by beer.
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  10. #10
    Meh.
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    Have you checked that the caliper's side to side adjustment is not maxed out?

  11. #11
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    The stroker trail doesn't have a pad contact adjustment. Harbor freight closes at 8 and wiring took longer then expected, looks like another project for tomorrow.

    Also, dogon, I don't have any cans here, beer or otherwise, haha.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    The stroker trail doesn't have a pad contact adjustment. Harbor freight closes at 8 and wiring took longer then expected, looks like another project for tomorrow.

    Also, dogon, I don't have any cans here, beer or otherwise, haha.
    Putty knife about .022, razor blade for sheet rock knife .027. Going thicker increases lever freeplay thinner decreases.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Putty knife about .022, razor blade for sheet rock knife .027. Going thicker increases lever freeplay thinner decreases.
    How many times folded over for aluminum foil? I'm guessing 6 or so?

  14. #14
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    Just go buy a 6 pack, slam it all, then afterwards, it won't matter anymore.....hehehe.
    It's so much better to just get feeler gauges like dog said.
    I bought 2 sets and keep em in the shop.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Just go buy a 6 pack, slam it all, then afterwards, it won't matter anymore.....hehehe.
    It's so much better to just get feeler gauges like dog said.
    I bought 2 sets and keep em in the shop.

    Haha, I wish I could, not 21 yet, April 25th I will be. I plan on stopping to get a set tomorrow after my morning ride.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Haha, I wish I could, not 21 yet, April 25th I will be. I plan on stopping to get a set tomorrow after my morning ride.
    Ohhh I see your a sweet innocent angel of paradise and has never nor even thunk about having a brew till your of proper age.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Ohhh I see your a sweet innocent angel of paradise and has never nor even thunk about having a brew till your of proper age.
    Did I say anything about not downing my fair share? I just can't go into a store and buy some. Which sucks. You can go ahead and keep thinking I'm a sweet little innocent angel though haha, I'm sure the ones who raised me would approve.

  18. #18
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    Make ya a deal you fly out here with your bike clean up the wiring in my house I'll set up your brakes for free.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Make ya a deal you fly out here with your bike clean up the wiring in my house I'll set up your brakes for free.
    Halfsies on the plane ticket? My buddy just moved in to this place, and the wiring is ridiculous: breaker boxes main labels for the house are bedroom, bathroom, living room, kitchen. It's a 4 bedroom, 1 bath upstairs, living, dining, half bath downstairs. Haven't touched the downstairs stuff yet, but when we started, the bathroom breaker supplied the upstairs bath, 1 bedroom and half of another. The kitchen one was supplying half of the bedroom upstairs, and the hallway upstairs. The bedroom has got two bedrooms and one light downstairs. And apparently nothing is supplying the last bedroom because there is a random switch that turns it on and off. Electrical nightmare.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Halfsies on the plane ticket? My buddy just moved in to this place, and the wiring is ridiculous: breaker boxes main labels for the house are bedroom, bathroom, living room, kitchen. It's a 4 bedroom, 1 bath upstairs, living, dining, half bath downstairs. Haven't touched the downstairs stuff yet, but when we started, the bathroom breaker supplied the upstairs bath, 1 bedroom and half of another. The kitchen one was supplying half of the bedroom upstairs, and the hallway upstairs. The bedroom has got two bedrooms and one light downstairs. And apparently nothing is supplying the last bedroom because there is a random switch that turns it on and off. Electrical nightmare.
    Sounds like my house. We had a short that would lose lights to one bedroom or bedroom closet intermittently only during a rainy day. Called a budy to come over when it went out as soon as he pulled up they turned on. Come to find out when vacuuming one day it's the wall plug in the joining bedroom. They ran the wiring to light bedroom 1 then the wall plug of bedroom 2 to the closet light of bedroom 3.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Sounds like my house. We had a short that would lose lights to one bedroom or bedroom closet intermittently only during a rainy day. Called a budy to come over when it went out as soon as he pulled up they turned on. Come to find out when vacuuming one day it's the wall plug in the joining bedroom. They ran the wiring to light bedroom 1 then the wall plug of bedroom 2 to the closet light of bedroom 3.
    I don't get that sort of stuff, If I were building a house: one breaker switch per room, one switch for larger appliances, pair the washer dryer, fridge stove, stuff like that. Then if I needed to add any more boxes, just tie into preexisting lines for that room. People are illogical.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    I don't get that sort of stuff, If I were building a house: one breaker switch per room, one switch for larger appliances, pair the washer dryer, fridge stove, stuff like that. Then if I needed to add any more boxes, just tie into preexisting lines for that room. People are illogical.
    Since were on electricity hows the fluid coming.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Since were on electricity hows the fluid coming.
    Hmm, well about that... I had to go back to help my buddy again, I've been in and out of the apartment doing stuff all day including my orbital mechanics homework, and by the time I was finally finished with everything else I needed to do, wouldn't you know it every store was closed. No feeler gauge today. Hopefully tomorrow won't be so eventful.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Hmm, well about that... I had to go back to help my buddy again, I've been in and out of the apartment doing stuff all day including my orbital mechanics homework, and by the time I was finally finished with everything else I needed to do, wouldn't you know it every store was closed. No feeler gauge today. Hopefully tomorrow won't be so eventful.
    I would think that plane ticket is looking worse, Ok lets try this you pay the ticket I cover the labor, parts, room and board plus brake set-up only thing you need to do is electrical plus parts. Sounds like a great deal for you now.
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  25. #25
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    Nowhere did I say that the brake has a pad contact adjustment. I said the caliper has a side to side adjustment. Are you sure that you know how to adjust these brakes?

  26. #26
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    will strokers are the least complicated hydros ever, they dont have a lot of the crazy madness others sets do, my strokers do the same thing all the time, i reset the pistons, squeeze and adjust caliper and then after a while of riding boom slight rubbing, mine is cause my rotors are a lil out of true...but i can correct almost all the rub by adjusting the QR on both front and back...

    also hayes says that the amount of rub you get from this kind of thing, that like slight annoying shhhhh sound is negligable and doesnt do much to the pads or speed...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    I would think that plane ticket is looking worse, Ok lets try this you pay the ticket I cover the labor, parts, room and board plus brake set-up only thing you need to do is electrical plus parts. Sounds like a great deal for you now.
    Sounds like a very fair deal to me. Haha.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Nowhere did I say that the brake has a pad contact adjustment. I said the caliper has a side to side adjustment. Are you sure that you know how to adjust these brakes?
    Your confidence in my abilities are awe-inspiring. I misread your first post. The front hub is a bolted through axle and there is no room for itself to move left or right. I thought that all hubs are meant to have the disc rotor in the same spot, plus or minus some small tolerance, and that the rotor would fit smoothly between the pads. Also, the fact that I can see no space on either side of the rotor between the pads leads me to believe dog has the right idea. I'll verify today, and also check to make sure that the screw isn't pressing up against one side or the other in the caliper mounting hole, and the rotor is mostly pushing on that same side within the caliper.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Your confidence in my abilities are awe-inspiring. I misread your first post. The front hub is a bolted through axle and there is no room for itself to move left or right. I thought that all hubs are meant to have the disc rotor in the same spot, plus or minus some small tolerance, and that the rotor would fit smoothly between the pads. Also, the fact that I can see no space on either side of the rotor between the pads leads me to believe dog has the right idea. I'll verify today, and also check to make sure that the screw isn't pressing up against one side or the other in the caliper mounting hole, and the rotor is mostly pushing on that same side within the caliper.
    Thats my long lost son WiLL dude knows his shnitz.

    Check this video out, your mainly concerned with the last 1/4 but it's great info.

    Stroker bleeding video
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  30. #30
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    Different components can be produced to varying degrees of tolerances of the international standard.

    k1lluaA - that does not have anything to do with what I have said.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Thats my long lost son WiLL dude knows his shnitz.

    Check this video out, your mainly concerned with the last 1/4 but it's great info.

    Stroker bleeding video
    Great info dog, thanks. It looks like I'll have to do what you said about bleeding some excess off, it's just a little tight, even after what I did below.

    I also checked to make sure maybe my through axle didn't have any play in it (Will got me thinking about something else.) And the rotor still rubbed after I loosened the axle end cap but not near as much. Looking closely at the caliper leg of the fork (bike is upside down, I was standing at the front end), the leg, and caliper rotated clockwise as I tightened the through axle end cap so that it pinched down onto the rotor.

  32. #32
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    I set up MTB front ends like we do on moto's, With the pinch bolts on the axle loose grab the brake and push the fork down a few times to allow every thing to settle in then tighten pinch bolts. Since brake calipers on motos float they will center themselves but MTB is solid mount and may need recentering so it's always good to double check this just in case.
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    I set up MTB front ends like we do on moto's, With the pinch bolts on the axle loose grab the brake and push the fork down a few times to allow every thing to settle in then tighten pinch bolts. Since brake calipers on motos float they will center themselves but MTB is solid mount and may need recentering so it's always good to double check this just in case.
    Hey Dog, just wanted to give an update so you didn't think I forgot . I went back and forth between my old wheel set and my new one, and the front still did not line up. The old front wheel is fine and there is no rub, but the new wheel is still grinding. I got the feeler gauges and everything seems fine. I suspect that the only reason it looked like there was no room in the calipers before was because the caliper was actually slightly bending the rotor causing it to be angled within the pads.

    The new wheels are at my parent's house because they have the air compressor, and I'm experimenting with tubeless. So for the time being I'm using the old ones.

    The caliper is maxed out all the way toward the hub as far as adjustment goes and there still isn't enough room, I failed to see this before. Do you think I need to mill a custom adapter so that the caliper will line up with the rotor?

  34. #34
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    You prolly just need to shim the adapter or the caliper.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    You prolly just need to shim the adapter or the caliper.
    I don't understand how you can shim the caliper or adapter left or right. The slots on the caliper where the screws mount to the adapter are maxed all the way in, and the adapter is a non-sliding solid mount into the fork. You could shim it out away from the edge of the rotor by putting something underneath where the caliper and adapter touch, but I don't believe that shimming anything would help my situation.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    You prolly just need to shim the adapter or the caliper.
    I'll drink to that!! Work with shimming/washers to adjust the caliper where it fits properly.

    What brand wheel is giving you tantrums??
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    I don't understand how you can shim the caliper or adapter left or right. The slots on the caliper where the screws mount to the adapter are maxed all the way in, and the adapter is a non-sliding solid mount into the fork. You could shim it out away from the edge of the rotor by putting something underneath where the caliper and adapter touch, but I don't believe that shimming anything would help my situation.
    U have a radial mount so your correct you can not move right to left. You forgot to mention this so I guess your getting a 120V shock for lack of info.

    Bump the voltage please.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    I'll drink to that!! Work with shimming/washers to adjust the caliper where it fits properly.

    What brand wheel is giving you tantrums??

    I've attached an image, for my own edification, so that you guys can show me what you mean when you shim. I know what the term means, I just don't know where you want me to apply it. I assume since Dog said something about washers, that they are meant to go around the screw lifting either the caliper or the adapter. But, I don't believe this will help my situation.

    Look at the picture as if the bike where on it's back on the floor and you were standing at the front facing the rear. In the image, the red arrow is where all the rub is occurring. The green screw is a solid mount that can not move left or right. The yellow screw is slide mount so that the caliper can be moved left or right. (I know you all know this, I'm just doing it for my own clarification). The caliper is moved all the way to the right, but it still is rubbing on the right side, which means it needs to be moved further to the right.

    I only see shimming as a way to move the assembly up or down on the image, which is not where my rubbing is occurring.

    The wheel is a 823 laced to a hope pro 2.

    Also, my apologies for the sh!te paint drawing, I still have massive amount of homework to do and time is fleeting.

    Edit: Actually attached image, it's late.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    U have a radial mount so your correct you can not move right to left. You forgot to mention this so I guess your getting a 120V shock for lack of info.
    Well dang, it's the current that kills you anyway!
    Still need that house wired up? haha

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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    I've attached an image, for my own edification,
    Edit: Actually attached image, it's late.
    Dang thats quite the wire schamatic oh wait thats a fork with caliper and rotor sorry.

    Nice drawing.

    So the mount has round holes and the caliper has oval holes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    Well dang, it's the current that kills you anyway!
    Still need that house wired up? haha
    Good thing I'm not an electrician ayy.

    Ya as well as many other things that are wrong. Well it's raining and still have consistent electrical power since I found the last problem.

    Funny I bought a new compressor and plugged it in where the old one was and no power. Thought I got a bogus motor till I plugged it into the socket bellow and walla it works and no power surge at start up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    I've attached an image, for my own edification, so that you guys can show me what you mean when you shim. I know what the term means, I just don't know where you want me to apply it. I assume since Dog said something about washers, that they are meant to go around the screw lifting either the caliper or the adapter. But, I don't believe this will help my situation.

    Look at the picture as if the bike where on it's back on the floor and you were standing at the front facing the rear. In the image, the red arrow is where all the rub is occurring. The green screw is a solid mount that can not move left or right. The yellow screw is slide mount so that the caliper can be moved left or right. (I know you all know this, I'm just doing it for my own clarification). The caliper is moved all the way to the right, but it still is rubbing on the right side, which means it needs to be moved further to the right.

    I only see shimming as a way to move the assembly up or down on the image, which is not where my rubbing is occurring.

    The wheel is a 823 laced to a hope pro 2.

    Also, my apologies for the sh!te paint drawing, I still have massive amount of homework to do and time is fleeting.

    Edit: Actually attached image, it's late.
    O.K. here is what you need...http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=757
    Since the caliper adjustment is maxed out, try going about it the opposite way...shim the rotor out with Syntace rotor shims so that you aren't maxing out the caliper adjustment. They come with several per pack, so you can also use them to adjust for differences between the two wheelsets. You should be able to get them so you won't have to make any brakes adjustments when switching wheels.

    Larry
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Dang thats quite the wire schamatic oh wait thats a fork with caliper and rotor sorry.

    Nice drawing.

    So the mount has round holes and the caliper has oval holes.

    Thank you for the praise . Ya'know if I wanted to be ridiculed for my spectacular drawing skills I'd go back to elementary school.



    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Good thing I'm not an electrician ayy.

    Ya as well as many other things that are wrong. Well it's raining and still have consistent electrical power since I found the last problem.

    Funny I bought a new compressor and plugged it in where the old one was and no power. Thought I got a bogus motor till I plugged it into the socket bellow and walla it works and no power surge at start up.
    Sounds very well wired indeed good sir.

    Thanks for all the troubleshooting and help (to the other guys as well). You all rock

    I'm going to try Larry's idea as it seems the most feasible. And you two were right, I do need to shim, just.. a different way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventanarama
    O.K. here is what you need...http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=757
    Since the caliper adjustment is maxed out, try going about it the opposite way...shim the rotor out with Syntace rotor shims so that you aren't maxing out the caliper adjustment. They come with several per pack, so you can also use them to adjust for differences between the two wheelsets. You should be able to get them so you won't have to make any brakes adjustments when switching wheels.

    Larry
    www.mtnhighcyclery.com

    Thanks a bunch Larry, didn't even know they made rotor shims. PM sent, if you've got them or can get them, I'll order through you.

    Time to sleep

  45. #45
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Munin2889
    I'm going to try Larry's idea as it seems the most feasible. And you two were right, I do need to shim, just.. a different way.
    I forgot all about them till I read Larrys post then it was Duuuuu stupid.
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  46. #46
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    I haven't bothered reading the whole thread... What fork do you have? If it's a post mount, then you can't shim it side to side like you need to. You'll need to shim the rotor out. Those syntace shims are nice because you don't have to fumble with 6 individual shims (one for each bolt).

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    I forgot all about them till I read Larrys post then it was Duuuuu stupid.
    Thanks Dog

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    I haven't bothered reading the whole thread... What fork do you have? If it's a post mount, then you can't shim it side to side like you need to. You'll need to shim the rotor out. Those syntace shims are nice because you don't have to fumble with 6 individual shims (one for each bolt).
    Yeah no worries, it's a '05 Manitou Dorado. Already on the syntace shims, waiting on Larry to get back to me, I'd like to reward him for his help if I can. Thanks for the input!

  49. #49
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    I haven't bothered reading the whole thread...
    Son Pimpin aint easy!!
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