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  1. #1
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    New Stroker Trail rotor rubbing bad

    I have tried several times to center my rear rotor with no luck. I sort of hijacked a similar thread and was given this answer...........

    "With the Stroker trail, the pistons are self adjusting. Remove the wheel, insert a flathead screwdriver between the pads, rock back and forth. Reinstall the wheel. Loosen the two bolts that attach the caliper to the adapter. Pump the lever a few times, squeeze the lever. Alternately snug the two bolts back up while making sure the caliper does not shift. Repeat if necessary."


    I have tried several times, I must be doing it wrong. I finger tighten the caliper, Pull the lever and hold it inplace with a strap. Thighten down the caliper and release the brake lever. As soon as I tighten down the caliper to the mounting bracket is pushes the inner pad against the rotor. Everytime!! "making sure the caliper does not shift" IT SHIFTS EVERY TIME!! Where am I going wrong?

    I stopped by my LBS and they suggested putting a washer in between the caliper and maouting bracket to create space. But if the pads are self adjusting, wont they just compensate to the gap created by the washer?

  2. #2
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
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    Have you tried the feeler gauge between the pads and rotor yet??

    Basically all hydros are self adjusting just like a moto or car would be.
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  3. #3
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    Feeler gauge? Educate me please

  4. #4
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiveo
    Feeler gauge? Educate me please
    Kids http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge

    Stroker bleeding video

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  5. #5
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    Ok got it. I assume I need to place a gauge in between the pad and the rotor then follow the centering process. What width gauge should I use?

  6. #6
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Take it to a bike shop. You may have maxed out the side-to-side adjustment of the caliper, thus the need to space over the adapter.

  7. #7
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    Space over the adapter. Wouldnt that be using the washers like my LBS told me to do?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiveo
    Ok got it. I assume I need to place a gauge in between the pad and the rotor then follow the centering process. What width gauge should I use?
    .015" is what Hayes recommends.



    Quote Originally Posted by fiveo
    Space over the adapter. Wouldnt that be using the washers like my LBS told me to do?
    Basically yes.
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  9. #9
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    If you don't want to pay for a feeler gauge, a beer can is about 0.007" thick. Cut one up and fold it over...0.014" white trash feeler gauge.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by midgetorama
    If you don't want to pay for a feeler gauge, a beer can is about 0.007" thick. Cut one up and fold it over...0.014" white trash feeler gauge.
    Formotion Products
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  11. #11
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    Did the home made feeler guage today. Worked like a charm after a few attempts, I finally got them dailed it. Now I got to focus on getting them bleed right.

  12. #12
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiveo
    Did the home made feeler guage today. Worked like a charm after a few attempts, I finally got them dailed it. Now I got to focus on getting them bleed right.
    One six pack per feeler gauge.
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  13. #13
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    Thought I had ny problem solved.....NOT! They didnt seem to drag today. but where noisy all ride long. Normaly the squeak for the first few minutes of my DH then go quiet. Not today, the squeaked all down the mountain. I think its time to take them to the shop and get set up by someone else.

  14. #14
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    Was the weather different on that day? Foul, cold weather can contribute to brake squeal.

    I would take the pads out and lightly sand the surface by putting a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pad back forth until you knock any glazing from the surface. Then use the sandpaper to chamfer the edge of the pad material all the way around. Clean the braking surface of the rotor with rubbing alcohol.

    I use a feeler gauge on hydraulic discs too and found .015 to work very well. If your rotors are very true, you might try an even smaller gap.

    If I don't have access to a feeler gauge then a thin putty knife will do in a jam. Also, a matchbook cover or a common business card are usually about .016" (close enough) and work OK too.

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