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  1. #1
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    New rims, brake drag after first ride.

    Installed a set of mavic cross trail discs using the center lock to six bolt adapters. Stock shimano M445 brakes. Loosened and reset calipers after everything was installed. After the first ride (about five miles) I noticed both rims were dragging on the brakes a little. I had noticed a little firmer brake lever feel during the ride which was probably the pad/caliper/rotor misalignment.

    Anyway, just worried I might have caused an issue somewhere along the line. I reset everything again and don't see anything wrong but it's my first wheel swap and want to make sure I didn't miss anything. I'm assuming it was just settling in of the new parts but never know.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    We def. have to distinguish between "rim", "hub", "rotor", and "wheel".
    If your "rim" is touching your disc brake you have a serious problem.

    Start by making sure the rotor is locked securely to the adapter and the hub.

    Then make sure the wheel, specifically the axle, is fully in the dropouts and locked securely to the fork.

    Then align the caliper. If you leave it crooked it will eventually wear in and work pretty much the same, but your pads wear crooked = bad.

    If your brake pads are not moving equally, then you might need brake service.

    If your axle is fully in the dropouts and locked, but the wheel looks to be off center or something, the dish of the wheel needs adjusted by a capable wheel tech.

    -F

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    We def. have to distinguish between "rim", "hub", "rotor", and "wheel".
    If your "rim" is touching your disc brake you have a serious problem.

    Start by making sure the rotor is locked securely to the adapter and the hub.

    Then make sure the wheel, specifically the axle, is fully in the dropouts and locked securely to the fork.

    Then align the caliper. If you leave it crooked it will eventually wear in and work pretty much the same, but your pads wear crooked = bad.

    If your brake pads are not moving equally, then you might need brake service.

    If your axle is fully in the dropouts and locked, but the wheel looks to be off center or something, the dish of the wheel needs adjusted by a capable wheel tech.

    -F

    Ok, yes I did mix terms there, sorry!
    After the ride, loading the bike I noticed the rear wheel did not rotate freely (slight drag). The front very slightly as well. Near the end of the ride I had noticed a slightly firmer brake lever feel, this could be explained by the rotor being slightly cocked in the caliper.

    When I got home I loosened the calipers slightly and the drag went away. I also noticed when I released the rear wheel it felt odd (I wasn't expecting anything unusual so I can't descibe it perfectly, although my impression is that the rim moved slightly in the dropout).
    I did not change any brake parts other than the rotor swap and it was all fine prior.

    I agree that chances are the wheels either moved or were not fully seated in the dropouts. I did triple check this before the ride (wheel falling off=bad!) but again, that's the thing that makes the most sense. I will take the wheels off, check the centerlock tension, and make sure the axles are properly seated before resetting the calipers again.

    Question: my procedure on caliper alignment was:
    With rims installed, loosen calipers. (just enough for them to move)
    Press brake lever to allow caliper to center on rotor, tighten calipers in that location.
    I was thinking I should try to tighten the calipers with the brake lever depressed so nothing moves while tightening the caliper mounts. That might have been an issue also.
    Sound correct? I'm all ears if not.

    FWIW, I did check all this before putting the bike on the ground, but I certainly could have missed something.
    Thanks for the reply and the advice!
    Dave

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by extremedave View Post
    ... I also noticed when I released the rear wheel it felt odd (I wasn't expecting anything unusual so I can't descibe it perfectly, although my impression is that the rim moved slightly in the dropout)....

    Looks like it's just the 2 of us on here...


    I think maybe there is something up with your QR's. Next time you ride, put your wheels on like you normally do. Then do a few really hard stops just using the front brake. Don't crash - just stop. See if you get any rotor drag. Then open and close your front QR to see if your wheel settles back into the dropouts. Do the same with the rear - stop hard, check for drag, open and close the QR. You may either need to tighten your QRs OR they just kinda suck (there are a LOT that do) and you need better ones. Good old steel Shimano QR skewers are tough to beat for clamping force. The DT-Swiss RWS skewers hold very well, too and are made in 5mm skewer, and several thru-axle sizes (if you have that type of hub). They cost a bit more, though. Good luck with it.

    -F

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Looks like it's just the 2 of us on here...


    I think maybe there is something up with your QR's. Next time you ride, put your wheels on like you normally do. Then do a few really hard stops just using the front brake. Don't crash - just stop. See if you get any rotor drag. Then open and close your front QR to see if your wheel settles back into the dropouts. Do the same with the rear - stop hard, check for drag, open and close the QR. You may either need to tighten your QRs OR they just kinda suck (there are a LOT that do) and you need better ones. Good old steel Shimano QR skewers are tough to beat for clamping force. The DT-Swiss RWS skewers hold very well, too and are made in 5mm skewer, and several thru-axle sizes (if you have that type of hub). They cost a bit more, though. Good luck with it.

    -F
    Yeah, apparently I ain't all that popular. I love ya, man!

    Very good ideas, I'll try what you suggested. I pulled the wheels off last night and did notice a few little white paint flecks on and around the hubs (bike is white, rims/hubs black). That does somewhat support the wheel getting loose and moving around in the dropout. The QR's that came with the wheels have a smoother feel than stock, so I was perhaps erring on the side of less tension rather than more. I'll see if the stock QR's are maybe Shimano and try a swap if so.

    Honestly, the thing that bugs me the most is thinking I did something wrong! Not that I'm all that, but I've been doing all the wrenching on the bike and very much enjoying the tinkering part. This rattled my confidence a bit and was quite the bummer.

    Thanks for all the ideas, I'll go with a little more torque on the QR's and try your braking test. If it moves, new skewers, or the old ones if they aren't cheesy.
    Cheers, owe ya a beer!

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