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  1. #1
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    The New Marta MT6 and MT4 vs 2011 Marta SL

    The new Martas MT6, MT4, how do they stack up agains the 2011 Marta SL.

    Anyone can compare..?

    I only have experience with Martas... but from reading (forget the marketing junk about specially layered carbon, etc... I do not want to even consider the lightness of MT8). All that is realy not that important- MT8s might be superlight but also super expensive which makes them much less affordable and at the end the weight savings in non-rotational mass realy does not matter that much unles one counts every gramm.

    So MT4 and MT6 vs 2011 Marta or 2011 Marta SL.
    * reliability
    * performance
    * durability (crash durability)
    * serviceability

    Is there enough new technology in the MT series to give the preference over the tried and tested 2011 Marta series.
    Which one would you get?





    (and also MT8 but those a bit overpriced now and not worth it unless one has ton on cash

  2. #2
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    ...love is the absence of fear....

  3. #3
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    I just picked up a set of Marta SL 3 weeks ago. The MT4 and MT6 may be as good. In my research i did not hear anyone say they are better than the 2009-2011 Marta - and they are untested long term. I hope they are better as I am a big fan of magura - seems like a great co. Agree the weight dif is minimal. If money was no object I would have picked up the mt8.

  4. #4
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    ...love is the absence of fear....

  5. #5
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hello and thanks for your interest in Magura!

    Below are a few reviews I have been collecting for my boss and you can also take a peek.
    The new brakes have been well received so far and are working real good. They have some strong points and the older Martas have some strong points but you can't go wrong with either. The Martas have been rock solid and championship winners but these new brakes will be even better in short time.
    All of our sponsored racers have been on them most of the year (Pua Mata, Sabine Spits, Irena Kalentieva, Jeff Kerkove etc. and they are liking the power and modulation even better than the Martas.
    Durability has yet to be determined but nothing unexpected yet from the brake itself. We have had a couple alloy rotor bolt heads snap and a couple alloy clamp bolts strip but nothing dangerous and those areas have already been addressed and rectified.
    Crash durability has been better than anyone expected. These master body's can take a hammer repeatedly to them (I know) and are absolutely fine, no marring even!

    The Magura USA crew have all been on MT-8's since May with absolutely zero issues aside from the above mention and really impressive modulation and feel feedback from all of us.
    Tony lives in Sante Fe and rides the steeps daily putting tons of heat into his brakes, Ruthie is in Durango and hitting her brakes real real hard, Paul G is in Seattle area submerging his brakes to constant wet weather, Jeff rides daily in the slop of Illinois and I am in Austin where the single track is about to burst into flames. Nice variety of testing for the US.



    Bike Radar, MT-8 - Magura MT8 Disc Brake ? First Ride Review - BikeRadar

    Bike Radar Brian Lopes ride - Pro Bike: Brian Lopes's Ibis Mojo SL-R - BikeRadar

    NSMB.com MT series brakes - Magura 2012 | NSMB.e.MAGAZINE - Freeride, Extreme and North Shore style Mountain Biking

    Pinkbike.com MT-8 - Magura MT-8 Disc Brake - Tested - Pinkbike.com

    Pinkbike.com Ryan Barrecloth and his Magura Brakes - Ryan Berrecloth and his Magura Brakes. - Pinkbike.com

    Go for it, you won't be disappointed and thanks for the consideration!
    Jude

  6. #6
    DB4L
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    I'm currently running the Marta SLs and I've also had the opportunity to ride the MT6 (we're a magura dealer) and I can say that they're very nice brakes. They feel like all Magura brakes i've ridden which is not a bad thing. They have excellent modulation and great bite at the extremes. I'll stick with my Marta's because they're light and awesome but when I feel like upgrading I'm definitely going to the MT series. 5 year leak-proof warranty is also a huge +.
    Shop Mechanic at Bikes Unlimited Williamsburg
    Diamondback and Raleigh Fan

  7. #7
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    Can you point out the differences in MT6 and MT4 brakes... I do not see any except for 20 gramms of weight; which is you replace Storm for Storm SL you get the same weight for both models..

    * BAT- what ever that is in practical life ? is present for both brakes..
    * EBT is in both models too.
    * Is is carbontecture sl VS carbontecture for the body the difference?

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Ok sure and thanks for the interest.
    Yes you are correct, the MT-6's master body which is made of the carbon/ fibre material, "SL" and the MT-4 is constructed of the heavier glass/fibre composite materiel. Same caliper as the "6" but with a different bore plug and steel vs. alloy hardware in some areas.

    The BAT is a lever adjustment feature that allows more lever blade position and sweep preference. Some folks don't need or want it, a few do.
    Jude

  9. #9
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    judemonica,
    thanks again.
    Can you then tell me why would someone go for MT6 which is almost $100 more than MT4, especially when they come at the same final weight?

    Can please explain what the different bore plug means in reality. How will the MT6 and MT4 be different in the performance/ feel.
    Is the BAT system only on MT4 brakes; does the MT6 have some other system instead?

    Thanks

  10. #10
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    The MT-6 is lighter overall than the MT4 and is constructed with Carbon/Fibre VS Glass/Fibre so the Master Body itself is lighter. The finish also looks nice like the MT-8 but with out the carbon blade, alloy instead. (but a light alloy blade as apposed to the heavier MT-4 blade with its extra components for the BAT adjustment.) The MT-4 is painted which also looks good but again adds a little weight.

    The technology and materiel of the master body itself is the main cost variation.

    Bore plug- is the plug used to seal the caliper after machining the piston bores and surrounding areas. The caliper is a one piece design and all machining is preformed from one side and then a "plug" is threaded into the face of the caliper (the red on the MT-8 caliper is a good example.)
    The plugs differ on the brakes subtly from 8,6 and 4 with amount of material and color.
    Jude

  11. #11
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    I suppose both: Storm rotor and Storm SL rotor work interchangeably on all MT models? is that correct?

    Also, are the IS adapters for Marta series identical to the ones used for MT series?

    Thanks

  12. #12
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Yes, you can use any of the Storm or Storm SL's, even the old Marta and Louise SL's are fine.

    The adapters are the same as the past with just a few more options for 5" rear rotors.
    Jude

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    The new Martas MT6, MT4, how do they stack up agains the 2011 Marta SL.

    Anyone can compare..?

    I only have experience with Martas... but from reading (forget the marketing junk about specially layered carbon, etc... I do not want to even consider the lightness of MT8). All that is realy not that important- MT8s might be superlight but also super expensive which makes them much less affordable and at the end the weight savings in non-rotational mass realy does not matter that much unles one counts every gramm.

    So MT4 and MT6 vs 2011 Marta or 2011 Marta SL.
    * reliability
    * performance
    * durability (crash durability)
    * serviceability

    Is there enough new technology in the MT series to give the preference over the tried and tested 2011 Marta series.
    Which one would you get?





    (and also MT8 but those a bit overpriced now and not worth it unless one has ton on cash
    From the way you wrote this thread, can I assume that you own 2011 Marta SLs???

    If so, I have to assume that you are very happy with them, just as I am with my 2010 Sls.

    If so, then why fix what is not broken??? Keep your 2011 Sls and enjoy what they offer for years to come!
    fee-fy-fo-fum...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    From the way you wrote this thread, can I assume that you own 2011 Marta SLs???
    Little off the topic to answer your comment:
    Actually I do have 2008 (or 2007 ...not sure exactly) Martas which is the model before current Marta model with easy bleed technology.
    Those 08 model are major pain to bleed (even though I mastered it relatively well) and my rear one is IS mount which is terrible to align on the rotor.... Messing up with all those shims.. I would say I am quite handy mechanic but this gets me every time I need to fix it.... which I do quite often- when a wheel is swapped.

    So it is time to upgrade.. for lighter, better bleed technology, better mounting (post with adapter for rear brake), and hopefully also better piston retraction and I hope less drag .... yes I did experience relatively a lot of drag issues with 08 Martas especially on the rear IS mounted brake, when the rotor is not 100% true.

    BTW... is there any way (any adjustment/trick) - for older models and current models too, that allows the pads to run further away from the rotor to limit the drag when not engaded.... I think not, but maybe someone has a trick for it....

    (but when the Martas and tuned properly- the performance is great even on the 08 model)

    Thanks

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    Little off the topic to answer your comment:
    Actually I do have 2008 (or 2007 ...not sure exactly) Martas which is the model before current Marta model with easy bleed technology.
    Those 08 model are major pain to bleed (even though I mastered it relatively well) and my rear one is IS mount which is terrible to align on the rotor.... Messing up with all those shims.. I would say I am quite handy mechanic but this gets me every time I need to fix it.... which I do quite often- when a wheel is swapped.

    So it is time to upgrade.. for lighter, better bleed technology, better mounting (post with adapter for rear brake), and hopefully also better piston retraction and I hope less drag .... yes I did experience relatively a lot of drag issues with 08 Martas especially on the rear IS mounted brake, when the rotor is not 100% true.

    BTW... is there any way (any adjustment/trick) - for older models and current models too, that allows the pads to run further away from the rotor to limit the drag when not engaded.... I think not, but maybe someone has a trick for it....

    (but when the Martas and tuned properly- the performance is great even on the 08 model)

    Thanks
    As far as I know, the calipers are set to run at a non-adjustable gap away from the rotors. This is the case on my 2010s. You'll just have to keep the rotors pretty true and be careful not to hit them on stuff as you ride.

    Let it be known that other brakes (Formula, I believe?) run with an even narrower gap between the pads and rotor.
    fee-fy-fo-fum...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    Let it be known that other brakes (Formula, I believe?) run with an even narrower gap between the pads and rotor.
    That is good to know... thanks !

    BTW: I think the SRAM XX probably have the pad gap adjustment... looking at their last year model I see there on lever: "PAD Contact in" or is that for something else.....link with that picture here:
    2011 Avid XX Disc Brake - Competitive Cyclist

  17. #17
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    XX 'pad gap adjustment'. if it was not so sad it would be funny.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerth View Post
    XX 'pad gap adjustment'. if it was not so sad it would be funny.
    ???

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerth View Post
    XX 'pad gap adjustment'. if it was not so sad it would be funny.
    ha ha ..at first they worked perfect then 2 weeks later the pads started to rub on a perfectly true rotor so i spun the contact adjuster out and again they worked perfect 2 weeks later the pads started to rub badly on a perfectly true rotor and there was no more adjustment

  20. #20
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    Magura MT4- DISAPPOINTED OUT OF THE BOX

    Well I got the MT4 in hand today to play with and...

    * Let me start with false claims about the weight- Maybe Magura should invest $20 into digital scale and stop the false advertisement about weight of their products:

    A)
    1) WEIGHTED: 260g- MT4 brake, uncut hose, with 2 caliper screws- (2 different sets weighted)
    CLAIMED on Maguradirect.com: 216g (330g - 114g (Storm 160mm Rotor) = 216g)

    2) WEIGHTED:370g- MT4 complete system, uncut hose, with STORM SL (weighted on 2 sets)
    =>WHICH IS: 388g- MT4 complete system, uncut hose, with STORM (just adds 18 gramms to line above which is difference between Storm SL- 96g and Storm-114g) and you get: 388g
    CLAIMED on Maguradirect.com: 330g see that here

    WOW 58 GRAMMS ERROR .

    B)
    * Now talking about idiotic design for a screw... just look at brake clamp screws. Those are hollow screws with inner thread and torx 25 head. Now what a genius thought of using a torx head?? Don't they know that torx is not on all multi tools....?
    Secondly those soft Aluminum screws screw onto steel studs coming from the brake body and were chewed up already on a brand new brakes I saw and no one even used it.

    That is just by looking at the brakes weighing them, makes me wonder what surprises will come next..?
    Last edited by Ride_2_Fast; 09-01-2011 at 06:16 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride_2_Fast View Post
    Magura MT4- DISAPPOINTED OUT OF THE BOX

    ...

    That is just by looking at the brakes weighing them, makes me wonder what surprises will come next..?
    Well, have you tried actually riding with them? How do they work? (the extra weight certainly sucks, though)

    I'm still waiting for my MT4s to arrive.

  22. #22
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    Well, I did not like it for now.
    Comparing the old 07 (08) Marta; I like the Marta feel better.
    I did install only rear one, cut the hose as it was too long.. this was an easy process and I did not loose any fluid. Then when I pressed the lever it was engaging too close to the bar. Tried to use the BAT and but that did not make real difference. So magura manual says you may need to blade the brakes.

    Which I did next.
    I followed the shop manual from Magura web site, because there is no instructions in the box how to bleed the brakes. After pushing the Royal Blood couple times through the system and following all the details per instruction I closed the system and tested.
    I did a long ride on the bike over the weekend and have the same problem, the brake lever starts working very close to the bar. BAT system again.....
    Now sure what next?

    I am sure the bleed process was correct. Maybe I will try again.

    One question... if I have this problem with lever engaging too late (too close to the bar), in which position should I put the BAT adjuster. The SHOP manual does not say that.

    BTW... the instructions suck totally; there is nothing in the box about the BAT function or adjustment.
    No bleeding instructions in the box.
    The shop manual has 60 some pages but you will have to look it up on magura WEB site...

  23. #23
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    I have used the MT4s for about two weeks now. I must admit i was a little perturbed about the bite of the brake coming in when the lever was closer to the bar than I would have expected. I will agree that the BAT does not really help this at all (maybe makes it even closer and I have a Rohloff twist grip that the lever could stop against). However, when riding the bike I have not had any problems at all, in fact it feels very good with excellent modulation and power when needed. The alloy bolts have to be tightened in a sequence of the top first and then the bottom to provide sufficient friction on the bars to prevent rotation in normal use. I have not had any problems with this arrangement either, although it may seem a little unorthodox at first. Set up is really easy and there is not much more I can say though I do agree that the amount of individual adjustment of the lever is curtailed by the bite point that cannot be given a better range by use of the lever adjustment and BAT without the lever coming ever closer to the bar.

  24. #24
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    Have you tried to shorten the lever throw by moving the pistons / pads out a bit? I did this on my Marta SLs by taking the wheel off, pulling the lever until the pads are just close enough so that it looks like the rotor will go back in. Put the wheel back in. (If the pads are too close, then just spread them apart a bit. I used the blue, metal Park ruler in between my pads when pulling the lever without the wheel on.)

    I now have very little pads to rotor clearance, but my lever throw is short. No idea if this will work on the MTs.

  25. #25
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    Grok Jude Monica's video from Magura USA on bleeding:

    Magura MT8 Brake Bleed with Jude Monica www.mountainflyer.com - YouTube

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