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  1. #1
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    New question here. New BB7s limited Stopping Power...

    I just installed a new set of Avid BB7s on my bike.

    Is there a "film/coating" of something when the rotors and pads are shipped? When breaking, there is very limited stopping power as if something has to be worn off first. There is no grease, oil or finger prints on any of the parts. There is no noise associated with braking as if there were contaminants on the rotors/pads.

    I'm I missing something?
    Last edited by FlyBye; 10-06-2012 at 04:38 PM.
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBye View Post
    I just installed a new set of Avid BB7s on my bike.

    Is there a "film/coating" of something when the rotors and pads are shipped? When breaking, there is very limited stopping power as if something has to be worn off first. There is no grease, oil or finger prints on any of the parts. There is no noise associated with breaking as if there were contaminants on the rotors/pads.

    I'm I missing something?
    what brakes did you have before?
    what size rotors?
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  3. #3
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    Check your adjustments

  4. #4
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    Tektro 160mm came on the bike. They were fine for the flats, but I really wanted something with a little more "bite" for extreme downhill/mtn. The BB7s are an upgrade.
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpatt28 View Post
    Check your adjustments
    Adjustments are fine, nailed in pretty well... The pads are just having a tough time stopping the bike!
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBye View Post
    Adjustments are fine, nailed in pretty well... The pads are just having a tough time stopping the bike!
    i hear swiss stop makes some good pads for bb7s.
    check ebay.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBye View Post
    ... Is there a "film/coating" of something when the rotors and pads are shipped?
    Anyone that has installed new BB7s with the same dilemma?
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarr View Post
    i hear swiss stop makes some good pads for bb7s.
    check ebay.
    These pads are brand new. I shouldn't need to replace them or outsource another pair.
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  9. #9
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    Have you bedded them in well yet?? If not, that's what you need to do. Stopping power increases tremendously.
    '01 GT Aggressor 2.0
    '97 Jamis Dakota (CrMo)
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    Why am I on the computer and not riding???

  10. #10
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    look on ebay under swiss stop disc brake pads in the sporting goods search.
    they are about 24 bucks a set...i hear they work quiet and good.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by joqpub4 View Post
    Have you bedded them in well yet?? If not, that's what you need to do. Stopping power increases tremendously.
    This did the trick for me when I installed new BB7s several months ago. Haven't had any issues since.
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by joqpub4 View Post
    Have you bedded them in well yet?? If not, that's what you need to do. Stopping power increases tremendously.
    No I haven't. Thanks for the info. I was clueless on this until I ran a search. Thanks again!

    "Rotor and Brake Pad Bed-in

    To achieve full braking power the brake pads and rotors should be fully bedded in before the first ride. Proper bed in can prevent noise and vibration in a system, if done incorrectly these problems cannot be solved without pad and/or rotor replacement.

    The purpose of bed in is to apply a thin even layer of pad material to the brake rotor. At a basic level this layer allows the brake pad material to generate friction on the rotor surface in use. Bed in should be done on a new brake and after any pad/rotor replacement.

    To achieve proper bed in the rotors and pads must be brought to operating temperature allowing a transfer and then allowed to cool fully. During this process it is very important the rotor does not come to a complete stop with the brakes applied, this can create a thicker layer of material at one point leading to vibrations later in use.

    To bed in a rotor:

    1) Select a riding area which allows for a moderate speed, for safety remain seated.

    2) Accelerate to a moderate speed and apply brakes evenly, slowing to a walking pace. It is important to prevent a complete stop. Do this 20 times, braking power will increase during this process.

    3) Accelerate to a slightly higher speed and apply the brakes, slowing to a walking pace. Do this 10 times, do not come to a complete stop.

    4) Allow the brakes to fully cool before riding.

    After the bed in process the brakes should operate at full power without noise."
    "Maybe somebody ought to tell 'em they only need one gear... Nah!"

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by joqpub4 View Post
    Have you bedded them in well yet?? If not, that's what you need to do. Stopping power increases tremendously.
    +1 on this. Bed the brakes in, and your problem will likely be solved. Workshop: How To Bed In Disc Brake Pads - BikeRadar

  14. #14
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    if you installed new cables, they may stretch as you continue to use them. the same holds true for shifter cables.
    so you will need to readjust your cables.
    make sure your cables and housing are not too long.
    Using compressionless housing like this will help too, because of it's stiffness.
    Alligator STSP Housing 25-ft Roll at Price Point
    ...are you using avid speed dial brake levers?
    Avid Speed Dial 7 Brake Levers 2011 at Price Point
    ...folks like 'em with bb7s, etc.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  15. #15
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    Glad to see you got the right advice here. This applies to all disc brakes, and some people don't know about it. It's an important step though. Once a set of BB7's gets right, they are capable of huge amounts of stopping power.

  16. #16
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    Compressionless housing makes a huge difference as noted above. I have collected lots of older Avid/SRAM Full Metal Jacket sets and use them on all my BB7 bikes (4) wherever possible. Basically, it's stainless steel conduit with a liner. If you take your time and work from one end, you can get very nice bends. And sore fingertips. But it's worth it.

    I have found that Paul Love Levers work really well with BB7s, and as far as I can tell, SRAM road levers are just a bit better than Shimano. I have heard that new Dura Ace works better with BB7 Mtn than BB7 Road.

    Avid Flak Jacket and Nokon also work well and are easier on your hands.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New BB7s limited Stopping Power...-stainless1.jpg  


  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBye View Post
    No I haven't. Thanks for the info. I was clueless on this until I ran a search. Thanks again!
    Yeah it's very important to bed in new brake pads before hitting the trails/road. This goes with any disc brakes let it be mechanical or hydraulic, bicycle or car brakes. What you need to do is make 30 to 40 hard stops in a controlled environment (not on a singletrack...). The truth is you were lucky to notice the lack of power before going offroad because you could get seriously injured.

  18. #18
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    I'm amazed at how people don't understand the simplest thing about disc brakes. Until there is pad material embedded into the rotor, the brakes are essentially useless. The steel rotor is like ice until its burnished with the pad material.

    Go find a big hill and bed your brakes. Don't clean them with anything storonger than soap and water or you'll strip out the bedded material.

  19. #19
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    I heard full length cable housing helps not only to seal out contaminants but also to cut down on friction added by cable ends.This is true for shifter cables too, but if you drill out the frame cable stops to allow housing to go full length, it may void your frame warranty.You could use these to allow the housing to go full length though.
    Alligator The Gripper Bolt-On Hydraulic Hose Guide at Price Point

    Alligator The Gripper III Stick-on Cable Guides at Price Point

    Alligator The Gripper 2 Zip-Tie Hydraulic Hose Guide at Price Point alig26&detailName=Alligator The Gripper 2 Zip-Tie Hydraulic Hose Guide&dept_id=3&deptName=Parts&sub_id=49&subName=Cables&lprice=3.98&hprice=3.98

    Also, I read an article about how to remove the inside of the ferrules (if they have any) and then using heat shrink tubing to go over the ferrule and the housing to seal everything.

    I also know people debate using plain stainless steel cables vs.slick or treated type cables. I guess that's a matter of opinion.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

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