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  1. #1
    Braugh Bro.
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    Need some more heat resistant rotors.

    So i spent the weekend doing lift runs at Big Bear, and my braking performance was pretty pitiful about half way down each run, so bad that I once had to yell to my friend who is usually much faster than me to go faster so i wouldn't hit him because I could not control the speed of my bike. So I'm guessing/ hoping it's something as simple has my rotors heating up way too much, since usually the first half of the run would go fine and I would be perfectly in control.

    My current brake setup is Magura Louise brakes with 203mm storm (non sl) rotors.

    i was thinking of upgrading to avid HS1 rotors or Shimano icetech.

    icetechs are a big spensive for my blood, so I am open to suggestions. i'm on an extreme budget, so the cheaper the better.
    Last edited by Buggyr333; 09-26-2012 at 09:43 PM.

  2. #2
    rebmem rbtm
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    One thing to consider with the HS1 is that it has a narrower braking track then some other rotors, Avid sells that rotor with certain calipers which have a pad size that matches the size of the braking track on it.

    Example: In the photo below there is Code pads on the bottom and BB7/Juicy pads on the top.
    The size of the Code pads match the braking track on the HS1 rotor, the BB7/Juicy pads don't. The BB7/Juicy pads will overhang the inner edge of the braking track and a section of the pads will only be rubbing on the rotor arms. My way of thinking is that less pad material rubbing on the rotor's braking track makes a less efficient brake, if you're already having braking problems it mightn't be any better with the HS1. After saying that there are plenty of people using the HS1 with pads that don't match up with it's braking track and say it works well, the question is what sort of riding are they doing and how hard are they using the brake.


  3. #3
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    Are you dragging the brakes? Brake in short strong bursts, that way the brakes have time to dissipate heat in between applications.

  4. #4
    Braugh Bro.
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    definitely had to drag the brakes... STEEP terrain and i don't have the skill to control my bike at the speeds that letting off the brakes would provide.

  5. #5
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    If your running 203 rotors already.....time to work on your skillz

  6. #6
    DIY all the way
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    Just get yourself some carbon ceramic pads and rotors


    Magura

  7. #7
    Braugh Bro.
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    ceramic rotors? where? specifics?

    @jeffscott, if more skill were the only option, why do heat dissipating rotors exist? not like i'm not working on my skill, i'd just prefer to crash as little as possible while working on it.......

  8. #8
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    what fluid are you running? If using something like dot 3 or dot 4 you can upgrade to dot 5.1 which will have a higher boiling point. It sounds like you are boiling your fluid, I would try a flush and bleed as if the fluid is old it can contain water and air and would cause what you are describing. I am not really convinced that changing rotors would solve your problem.

  9. #9
    Braugh Bro.
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    i believe maguras use mineral oil. so im guessing thats what im using

  10. #10
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    Yes, Magura uses mineral oil, so do NOT use dot.

    I would have to agree that it is probably not your rotors that is the problem. Even if you are riding the brakes, they shouldn't fail that miserably only half way down. I would first replace the oil (Magura Blood), with all new oil, bleed and replace pads -metallic pads should withstand dragging better. This should help.

    After that, than definitely work on proper DH braking skills. You really don't need to drag your brakes, even if you are a novice rider and not comfortable with too much speed yet, you can keep a slower, controlled pace with proper braking at the proper location on the trail.

    Good luck.
    "If it ain't broke, don't fix it - it'll be broke soon enough !" - ILOJ

  11. #11
    DIY all the way
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    ceramic rotors? where? specifics?
    This one is DIY.
    It works rather well, and so far I have not been able to overheat it.


    Magura

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    ceramic rotors? where? specifics?.
    Found: Alligator’s Prototype Carbon-Kevlar-Ceramic Disc Brake Rotor - Bike Rumor

  13. #13
    DIY all the way
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    That's not a bad solution they've got there. It will be interesting to see if they ever get it over the prototype stage.

    Theoretically it could be made relatively cheap, at least compared to a full carbon ceramic rotor. If the performance is the same or better, this might be the hardcore rotor of next year.


    Magura

  14. #14
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    Just get your hands on a set of Magura Gustavs - no longer manufactured, heavy, but you will not cause those things to fade.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    definitely had to drag the brakes... STEEP terrain and i don't have the skill to control my bike at the speeds that letting off the brakes would provide.
    It's not your brakes thats letting you down, it's your still level.
    New brakes/rotors wont make you a better rider, work on your braking skills.

  16. #16
    Braugh Bro.
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    let me quote myself:
    " if more skill were the only option, why do heat dissipating rotors exist? not like i'm not working on my skill, i'd just prefer to crash as little as possible while working on it......."

    If rotors overheating is not a problem, why do hs1's and icetechs etc. exist?

  17. #17
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    For people that drag their brakes overheating will be an issue, simple solution...don't drag your brakes. Glazing would be an issue with dragging brakes as well.
    Your looking for a product to compensate for your skill level...there is no such thing.
    Why do they exist? new riders and such don't have the skill level to stay off the brakes, simple as that, hence for this thread's existance.

  18. #18
    Braugh Bro.
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    so, what your saying is that, they exist for people like me. We have established that. so instead of derailing the thread further, how about some recommendations on which ones work best?

    for the time being, i'll give em some new fluid and a bleed, but if thats not enough, i would like to know peoples experience with heat shedding rotors.

  19. #19
    DIY all the way
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    The simple solution would be Saints and Ice-tec rotors.


    Magura

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333 View Post
    so, what your saying is that, they exist for people like me. We have established that. so instead of derailing the thread further, how about some recommendations on which ones work best?
    I don't use rotor's of that nature so I can't recommend them. You have to take into account the braking surface of your rotor, it might be bigger than the braking surface on icetech rotors.
    You won't have much to lose by trying them out, just make sure they are compatible with your brakes.

  21. #21
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    "Braking performance was pretty pitiful" doesn't provide enough information to diagnose any problems or to provide specific solutions. Exactly what were YOU doing, what was the BIKE doing, and what did you WANT to happen that was different than what you experienced?

  22. #22
    Braugh Bro.
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    i would be squeezing down with all my might, front and rear, while still bouncing down the trail, my wheels would not lock up. they would work fine at the top of the run, and fine again after they cooled off after the run.at one point a run ended in a 300ft or so straight away, i slammed my brakes and kept going, and hit a fallen log at the end of the straight away. (didnt hit it hard though)

    not that i was slamming them down the whole way down the trail, but as the brakes got progressively weaker, i kept using them harder and harder, until i was slamming them the hardest.

  23. #23
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    I have heard good things about the Shimano XT SM-RT76 Disc,you could check it out.Its about $40.Also if your getting new discs get new pads,dont run your old pads with new discs
    and break them in proper,its a pain to break them in but its worth it.

  24. #24
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    When squeezing down with all your might, were the brake levers bottomed out against the handlebar or your other fingers? Or did you squeeze the lever and have it stop half way as you would expect, but just didn't get any friction to slow you down?

    If the symptoms were the former, then you're ending up with vapor in your brake lines as a result of overheating. This could be because of old brake fluid or a low grade brake fluid. Flushing and bleeding is the first thing to do. Rather than a generic DOT 5.1 fluid, get a high temp brake fluid intended for racing. You can get brake fluid rated at 600 degrees Fahrenheit at an automotive store for less than you can buy generic fluid from a bike store.

    If the symptoms were the latter, you might have been experiencing fade related to a thin layer of gases between the rotor and the pads. That's not uncommon with cheap, aftermarket pads. I've used ceramic pads from Disco and found them to be virtually unusable. Now I run Kool-Stops, and they work well. When in doubt, OEM pads are a good way to go.

  25. #25
    Braugh Bro.
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    it's the latter, but the pads are stock magura pads. not cheap aftermarket ones.

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