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  1. #1
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    Need help with Formula The One FR...already searched

    The history: Brakes were bought new this past winter, they are 2011 models. Installed on my Stumpy with stock pads and 185f 160r Formula rotors. I gave them a quick parking lot break in going from light to hard braking in ~15 stops. They started to grab decently by end. My normal trails do not have long braking periods what-so-ever.

    My initial impression were so-so. I felt the rear was way too weak so I put a 185mm rotor on that also, it helped, but did not solve.The front has been ok, but again not great. Both were very noisy!

    Over the past 500 miles they have gotten weaker up to the point a week ago the rear wouldn't even lock the tire up! I bought some Formula organic w/alloy backing pads for the rear. I sanded the rotor lightly to give a nice fresh braking surface. When I went to install the rear wheel the rotor would not fit between the pads...no biggie, put old pads in and used a big straight screw driver to push the pistons back in....PROBLEM: the pistons will come right back to their starting point every time. I can see the piston retract, then come right back out. Took the pads out, pulled the lever completely and clean around the pistons with alcohol. Still didn't work. I asked my LBS and they were a little puzzled, said to let a little fluid out of the MC. That helped but the piston is still not retracting and rear rotor still drags.

    I broke in the pads very lightly with constant light braking for 5 minutes per Formula's instructions. Slowly gave more pressure until I felt the bite coming on. 2nd PROBLEM: now the brakes have so much initial bite they are basically unusable! The moment I touch the lever the rear tire locks up. I let even more fluid out on my ride last night and it helped, but not much.

    3rd PROBLEM: My front brake is not grabbing at all. It has gotten so weak it doesn't even stop me on the trails. I think I will sand that rotor down and hit the pads lightly too?????

    I am looking for suggestions without buying some XT's!!!!
    www.quinnphoto.smugmug.com
    07 S-Works Enduro SL - Sold
    08 Epic Marathon - Sold
    2012 Stumpy EVO 29er frame up build

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Tarekith's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to get them bleed by someone who knows what they are doing, both brakes sound like that would fix them.
    Tarekith.com

    '12 RM Slayer70, i9 Torch, Flow EX, XT Brakes, 5050 s3.

  3. #3
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    My The Ones have been great, but they require a bit of TLC that the old magura's never got / needed.

    Make sure they have been bled perfectly.
    Retract the pistons during bleeding and make sure the are aligned.
    Align the rotors with the calliper body, NOT the pads.
    Sand the rotors lightly
    Make sure you pads are not contaminated

    the pads MUST be worn in correctly, have a look on formula USA website for details, I'm too lazy to link.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uphill=sad View Post
    My The Ones have been great, but they require a bit of TLC that the old magura's never got / needed.

    Make sure they have been bled perfectly.
    Retract the pistons during bleeding and make sure the are aligned.
    Align the rotors with the calliper body, NOT the pads.
    Sand the rotors lightly
    Make sure you pads are not contaminated

    the pads MUST be worn in correctly, have a look on formula USA website for details, I'm too lazy to link.

    +1. I need to bleed my brakes again. They work awesome but seems like my martas never needed TLC like these did. Tempted to buy some MT2 or MT4, anyone have any experience with these?

  5. #5
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    I've got The One, Greg Minaar SE's, these brakes are a bit of a pain to bleed - you have to take off the whole brake and fix them in a position so the bleed screws are pointing upwards, first time it took me 7hrs to get them bled! - my rear has got a bit week over the last few weeks but the front is dynamite, when they are both working they are true one finger DH brakes - tonnes of power - I have heard that you can fix the grabbing issue by running a Dremmel cutting wheel over the pad surface and cut a thin channel across it.

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