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  1. #1
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    Upset Need help bleeding my Magura Marta SLs

    Here's why I'm in this situation: transported the bike upside down with the wheels removed but without using the yellow transport clips (forgot about that requirement); levers jostled a few times; air introduced into system; levers now pull all the way to the grips; barely any braking power; brakes worked perfectly before screwing up like this.

    Here's what I did to troubleshoot: called Lonnie at Magura, who confirmed that I need to bleed.

    Here's what I have: 16 oz of Magura fluid, bleed kit, proper tools, work stand.

    Here's what I've referenced: the shop manual that came with the brakes and the FAQ on Magura's website, both of which detail the bleeding process.

    Here's what I tried to do: bleed the @#$%^&*&^%$#@ front brake for two straight evenings for three hours each night, and I still can't get rid of all of the air bubbles. I haven't even tried the rear yet - I seriously have spent this much time just on the front, and I'm about ready to throw my bike out the window. I really have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

    I insert the yellow transport. I align the caliper so that the hose is vertical and I move the master cylinder to the horizontal position. I fill the bleed syringe/hose and attach it to the caliper. I then remove the master cylinder cover and rubber membrane. I then push the entire bleed syringe contents through the system, sucking up the excess from the master cylinder to keep it from overflowing. At times, I'm not even getting any air bubbles in the master cylinder at this stage. I then push in the brake lever while pulling out on the bleed syringe while also keeping the master cylinder full (this is painfully difficult and slow, because the master cylinder is small and runs empty very fast) and preventing it from running dry. When the lever is all the way in, I continue pulling on the bleed syringe while slowly releasing the lever, still keeping the master cylinder full. At the lever pull/release stage, I'm getting a TON of air bubbles coming out of the caliper each and every time. Enough so that my bleed syringe fills mostly with a lot of air that I have to expel (by removing the hose from the syringe after folding the hose to seal it and emptying the air from the syringe). I can do this 10 times in a row, and I'm still getting a ton of air at this stage. I can't get to a point where I'm no longer getting air out of the caliper.

    What's strange is that I am losing fluid somewhere during this stage, because my fork lower is soaked and my floor rags are soaked. If I seal the system back up, there is no leak. I'm losing fluid during bleeding at the caliper, which makes me think that my connections aren't entirely solid. I attach the bleed hose fitting securely, but that's the only thing I can think to check.

    Weather is supposed to be in the 60s this weekend, and I haven't ridden in weeks due to this. PLEASE HELP me find a solution before I start cursing these brakes. I'm sure that it's my fault, but I have no idea what to check at this point. Are there any other bleed guides to reference? Any step-by-step with pictures? Anything? This is driving me insane.

  2. #2
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    Don't use the o-ring when attaching the syringe ferrule thing to the caliper bleed hole. Tightening it down with a wrench will give a much better seal. Make sure the brake hose exit of the caliper is pointing straight up when bleeding. It's not necessary to suck the oil with the lever squeezed. Just push the oil in from the bottom until the bubbles stop, then pump the oil down using the lever without touching the syringe (occasionally you may tap the caliper with a plastic driver handle and suck lightly with the syringe - caliper not applied). Last step, fill the reservoir completely to the top, close it, release syringe, insert grub screw, done.

    BTW, it's easier if you start with an empty system, i.e., with all oil removed. Test only with pads installed. You won't get the correct lever feel with the yellow spacer.

  3. #3
    A wheelist
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    I supporty the "get rid of the o-ring" suggestion already given here. The last time I bled my Martas I had the same problem - suck and out comes a zillion bubbles that could NOT have been stored inside the system. They had to have been getting past the o-ring on the suck cycle.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  4. #4
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    Tip

    A key i've found when bleeding most all disc brake/magura hs-33's is to have the caliper and brake lever resevoir parallel to the ground I've found this to be the best method to a successful bleed. To make the resevoir parallel to the ground you may have to remove the bottom caliper bolt then tighten the top bolt when the caliper is level. Then take the brake lever and adjust it so its level..

  5. #5
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    Thanks, everyone. I think I figured out what's wrong. I don't have the proper bleed syringe fitting! My bleed kit is from several years ago way before the Martas ever came out. So, I don't even have that O-ring fitting. My fitting is longer, and is obviously not sealing well at all. So, air must be creeping in from that junction, unfortunately.

    I only realized this after reading Mike T's FAQ, which is apparently slightly newer than the FAQ on Magura's site. Mike's FAQ references the O-ring fitting, while Magura's FAQ and the shop manual do not.

    Anyway, hopefully Lonnie or someone else at Magura can send one to me ASAP. I'm sitting at home today, and it's 65 degrees outside.

  6. #6
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnoBlur
    Mike's FAQ references the O-ring fitting, while Magura's FAQ and the shop manual do not.
    Hmmm that's weird, both the Magura site pdf downloads on bleeding Marta and my paper manual say (page 15, section 9, step 3) - "............pushing by hand the M6 barbed fitting which you have mounted an o-ring........".
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  7. #7
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    My bleed kit came with several screw in fittings since the kit was designed for all the brake models. I had trouble until I figured out that the one I had chosen was too long. It bottomed out before sealing completely, once I switched to the shorter fittings all went well.

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