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  1. #1
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    My Mono Mini Pro Experience

    About 1 month ago I ordered a set of Mono Mini Pro's from my LBS.

    The day after I ordered the brakes, I get a call from the LBS. They tell me there will be an up charge for the floating rotors. After work, I go by the shop and together we look at the Hope website's description of the Pros. There will be no upcharge

    Several days later the brakes arrive.

    Only the front brake has the cap with the union jack logo (This is painted on not machined, The HopeTech rep says that the machined cap didn't make it into regular production)

    The rear brake looks right (the color of the caliper, rotor, and carbon lever) but the cap on the reservoir is the standard Hope cap) Also, the rotor is 160mm not 140mm.

    Most of the hardware is titanium but the 'post mount to IS' adapter is Aluminum and the screws to mount the IS adapter to the bike are steel.

    After reading several posts on here regarding the brakes, and some of the hope reps comments that were passed on to me via the bike shop, my feeling is that the Hope distributor assembed my 'Pro' kit themselves and I certainly don't have the as advertised kit.

    Installation:
    The bike is a Salsa Mamasita, the wheels are Bontrager Race X Lite (29'er),the fork is a Reba (05).

    Front caliper is a tight fit but everything clears. The caliper is all the way 'out' or away from the hub and it just centered over the rotor. there isn't much wiggle room for adjustment.

    Rear caliper has plenty of room for adjustment and alignment.

    This is my first set of Hydraulic disks (had Avid Mech's before). So far they are great. They don't grab like the avids did.
    The first couple downhills were interesting as I was expecting more stopping power from the rear brake than was there. The pads are either bedded in now or I have adjusted to them but I like the way they work much more than the Avids.
    Rotors are straight
    No howling.
    Bleeding was easy..just like a car. Messy though because you have to fill the reservoir completely full then put the cap on which spills DOT5.1 (in my case 4) over the sides of the reservoir. I had a rag wrapped around everything then flushed it with rubbing alcohol followed by water.

    No one where I live has even heard of DOT 5.1. The auto parts stores have either sythetic 4 or 5 (silicon bases). The bike shops have even less of clue.

    So, despite not having a 'proper' set of Mono Mini Pro's, I'm very happy with them.

    As for the caps, they requested a matched set from Hope. They haven't arrived yet though.
    But you were just a blood sucking demon, these guys are lawyers.

  2. #2
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    The synthetic 4 fluid, (goes by Valvoline Synthetic) is fine, also very good is Ate Super Blue, although it's 3x the price for the same performance. Don't bother looking for 5.1.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by yz400e
    ....No one where I live has even heard of DOT 5.1. The auto parts stores have either sythetic 4 or 5 (silicon bases). The bike shops have even less of clue....
    Do they still say 5.1 on the cap? My old school Hopes had that machined into the cap but it turns out all US distributed Hope brakes have dot 4 in it.

    Dot 5.1 is actually pretty easy to find, some motorcycles use it. I got mine at Cycle Gear, i believe its a pretty big chain.

  4. #4
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    5.1 will offer zero benefit over using Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4. It will only cost more.

    I have five sets of Hopes and some say both, some say 4.

  5. #5
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by yz400e
    Most of the hardware is titanium but the 'post mount to IS' adapter is Aluminum and the screws to mount the IS adapter to the bike are steel.
    I understand about the steel bolts, but what material where you expecting the adapter to be?

    Quote Originally Posted by yz400e
    Front caliper is a tight fit but everything clears. The caliper is all the way 'out' or away from the hub and it just centered over the rotor. there isn't much wiggle room for adjustment.
    you might get some additional space if you face the fork tabs...

  6. #6
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    The adapters are aluminum.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    The adapters are aluminum.
    I know that JC.. but they always are AFAIK... I haven't seen any adapter made of other material but alu.. what I meant to ask is what yz400e expected them to be made out of... Ti maybe? (that would be a first..and may save nothing, but add some weight)

  8. #8
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    FWIW...

    The shop I got mine from got them directly from the UK, and are difficult to come by in the US.

    They told me that the ones generally available here are assembled by the distributor and are not the same.

  9. #9
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    dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point than dot 4

    thats about it for the difference in fluids

  10. #10
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    I have seen the LMA DOT4 fluids with higher BP's than Motul 5.1. As I've seen, there's a viscosity difference between 4 and 5.1.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    I have seen the LMA DOT4 fluids with higher BP's than Motul 5.1. As I've seen, there's a viscosity difference between 4 and 5.1.
    I have the older Mono Minis with the non-phenolic pistons and sintered pads but i would get these 'floaties' forming in the fluid that would clog the master cylinder reservior hole. My roommate, a former Mr. Goodwrench, said the fluid was boiling and congealling. So I switched to dot 5.1 and haven't had a problem since. I have noticed like JerkC that the higher end dot 4 has some specs that match your average dot 5.1

  12. #12
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    Just want to say thanks for the information on brake fluids and answer some of the comments.

    Regarding the adapter: for just under $300/wheel it would have been nice to have a Ti adapter.and bolts. After all, they do advertise it as coming with Titanium hardware.

    facing the tabs: they were lightly faced once before but more could be machined. I'm not sure how that would help as the caliper centers over the rotor; it's just that it is at the outer limit of adjustment The only way I can think of to get more clearance between the caliper and the spokes would be to space the rotor out from the hub.

    The more I use these brakes, the more I Like them.
    But you were just a blood sucking demon, these guys are lawyers.

  13. #13
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by yz400e

    Regarding the adapter: for just under $300/wheel it would have been nice to have a Ti adapter.and bolts. After all, they do advertise it as coming with Titanium hardware.
    ti hardware usually means ti bolts... a Ti adapter may be actually heavier than the alu one..which would defeat the purpose

    Quote Originally Posted by yz400e
    facing the tabs: they were lightly faced once before but more could be machined. I'm not sure how that would help as the caliper centers over the rotor; it's just that it is at the outer limit of adjustment The only way I can think of to get more clearance between the caliper and the spokes would be to space the rotor out from the hub.
    I understood the opposite sorry...if so you can use rotor shims like the ones Syntace makes


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikedesign
    dot 5.1 has a higher boiling point than dot 4

    thats about it for the difference in fluids

    What are those pemperatures ?

    Does disk caliper for bicycle ever get to those temperature ?

    I just bleeded my Mono Mini and had a hard time finding 5.1, Dot 4 is so easier/cheaper to find. Wouldn't it be enough ?

    Thanx
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  15. #15
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    I have a set of Mini Pros, and the official Hope 5.1 fluid (you should be able to get the fluid within the full bleed kit). I looked at the 5.1 temp rating for boiling points. They're actually pretty low, lower than ATE 4, and definitely lower than Valvoline synth 4.

    My Hopes came with some hard pads. It took 100s of miles to bed in. For a while I thought the brakes really lacked power. Now, they're working very well. The pads last a really stinking long time. I'm going with softer pads next time. I have 160s f/r.

    I also had the same thing with the caliper adjustment being all the way to one side, leaving no room for further adjustment. Instead of shimming the rotor out, I shimmed the bracket in towards the wheel. Well, I didn't need to shim it, but that is what I would do, as it just worked for my wheel fork combo.

  16. #16
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    I don't have much time on my Minis but couldn't stand the stock pads. I bought the "standard" Mini pads from JensonUSA and they immediately gave better feel and modulation. The original pads on the back brake also caused some squealing which is now gone. These pads won't last as long I'm sure but I am not DHing this bike so I'm not too concerned. BTW the pad compound on the new pads is black vs. the more metallic look of the orig. pads.
    Pivot Firebird, Tomac Snyper, KTM 250SX

  17. #17
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    for some reason i can't get my new mini's to stop dragging. I have less than 100 miles on them. I re-bled them, re-aligned then and went for a ride today. Day started with very little drag. By the time i got home it was dragging big time. It as if the piston is not contracting all the way in. The pads on both sides are dragging when the rotor is centered in the middle of the caliper. Where did i go wrong or what am i missing?

  18. #18
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    My experience with Mino Pro's & Formula Bianco's.

    I hear ya on the brake drag thing. I had a set a few months ago & couldn't believe how tight the clearance was on the pads/rotors. Easily the tightest I've ever experienced. I couldn't see any space what-so-ever between the pads & rotors, but amazingly I never heard them rub either....... in the 30 feet I rode them. I took 'em off & sold 'em. Admittedly I am not a world class mechanic, but I know one & took the bike to him & he couldn't get the pads to retract either. Yes, bleeding was tried, letting some fluid out was also tried. After several hours of trying to adjust these I asked myself "what in the world are you messing with these brakes for?" There are better choices out there. Sold 'em & bought a set of Formula's Bianco's. Easy set-up, good pad clearance, & they look as good as the Mini Pro's. Also, according to a digital read-out rotor truing dial (it's not made for that, but it works awesome for it), the Pro's floating rotors could only be trued within fifteenth thousanths, the Bianco's came within three thousandth's. That's 5 times truer in my mathmatically challenged brain, and much less likely to rub as a result.

    I loved the looks of the Hope's, the weight was awesome, but I made a decision to bolt on an extra 75 grams or so (don't know exact weight of Bianco's, but they are only SLIGHTLY heavier than the Mini Pro's) with the Bianco's & couldn't be happier.

  19. #19
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    Sorry to hear that. My Pros do not drag, and haven't dragged for the year that I've run them. In fact, the pad retraction is quite good. Haven't bled them or anything.

  20. #20
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    It was probably overfilled/bled with the pads not immobilized in the spread out position.

  21. #21
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    Problem fixed. I faced the mounting surface on my rock shox reba, recentered the calipers and then rebled the system. Everything is pretty much perfect now. I was amazed at the difference just facing the fork surface made. The caliper mounted noticebly(sp) flatter and inline.

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