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  1. #1
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    Are my elixirs leaking?

    I'm sure this is in here already, but a search didn't find much.

    I have a set of bought new 2010 elixir r's (still under warranty) which I have been riding on for months. The other day I went out to Keg Creek near Augusta GA (IMO one of the worst trails I've been on) and to avoid hitting a turtle following a somewhat quick downhill section I put some heavy force on my breaks. Immediately after coming to a stop it kind of felt like the front lever was all the way to the bar, but that could be my imagination.

    On the rest of the ride though I felt like the dead band was significantly larger than it was before (again might just have been my imagination). I noticed a little bit of fluid near the base of the lever. I figured it was just grease. I parked it and went out of town for a couple days and came back and noticed that it felt the exact same (using the rear break as a comparison).

    Seeking to repair what might have been imaginary I gave the front system a good bleed. there was plenty of air in the caliper, little in the line, but when when I got to the lever end I noticed that there was a sound coming from within the barrel around where the piston arm enters the lever body that responded to the forces being placed on the lever syringe. It sounds basically like bubbles coming into and out of the system. There was some air in the lever, but not an infinite amount as I would expect with a leak. I sealed the system up and gave it a good ride to test function. Breaking force appeared to improve and dead band shortened, but after a short ride the dead band seemed to lengthen, while breaking force remained the same.

    Is this a leak or is it all in my imagination? Is it something I should have my LBS take a look at?

  2. #2
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    Hi, I have the exact same problem which I posted here:

    Avid Elixir R bleed problem

    how did you solve it ? Did you get a replacement ?

  3. #3
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    Damn I am having the same issue with my set I just got!! Bleeding the front lever I can hear the noise also.

  4. #4
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    The sound of air leaking is supposedly normal but if you feel the braking performance is bad you should test for bubbles and try alternate bleeding procedure. If a day or less after you bled your brake you open it again and find plenty bubbles inside then something is wrong. Try sucking the air out only with the lever completely pressed down ( using a strap band ), do it on both ends, suck all bubbles out. Close the lever bleed port, use caliper surynge to push the lever to it's rest position and finaly close the caliper bleed port. Sucking bubbles out with lever pressed down won't produce the air leaking noise and therefore won't introduce new bubbles into the system.

    My lever behaved great after a good bleed, but then after I pressed it hard for 10-20 times the feeling became squishy again and it filled up with bubbles again because I found lot's of them again on the second bleed just after. Feeling to the press of a lever shouldn't change in such short period of time so I suspected some air was going in.

    I bought a replacement part, internals for a lever, it comes cheap, I'll change it when it arrives. It has some rings and parts which can come or become damaged and you can pump air through there just by using the brake.

    In the meantime I swapped levers for front and rear brake. Since the front brake lever was bad I had no problem putting it on the rear brake which doesn't need much power anyway since it locks quickly. Now, the front break is behaving much, much better wich proves the left lever was bad.

    Changing lever is very easy, you can do it in 5 minutes and then bleed according to the instructions I gave and see if it behaves better.

  5. #5
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    The Elixers have been reported to not have the greatest initial bleed done from the factory. Some require a re-bleed even before the first ride. Its possible that you jarred loose an air bubble hanging up in the master cylinder, and has worked its way to where it has affected braking.


    Get a bleed kit and re-bleed them.

  6. #6
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    Ok I've bleed the brakes twice so far and yes there was tons of air bubbles in them. My guess was because I had to shorten the lines on both front and rear. I followed the procedure here http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tu...akes-2010.html , and also just now found out that the squisy noise is the taperbore bladder expanding and shrinking. Double checked no fluid leaks anywhere.

    QUESTION:
    So far with the bleed block in the lever feels very firm and grabs almost right away, BUT when I mount the wheel/rotor the lever grabs at the half way point (parallel to the handlebars). I have everything adjusted out to the furthest and this is as far as I can get the levers out away from the handlebar. Is this how they are normally?

  7. #7
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    The bleed block is a tight fit, so there is very little piston movement until they make contact with the bleed block.

    With the pads installed, there is still a gap between the pad and the rotor, so more movement of the piston is required before the pad touches the rotor. Hence more lever movement. As long as the lever is firm and and does not go to the bar, its ok.

    For better lever positioning, use the lever adjustment.

  8. #8
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    Makes sense. Yea I currently have the lever adjustment all the way out to the furthest. I guess I will just leave it at that and see how it goes. Thanks

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