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  1. #1
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    My BB7 brakes are a symphony of noises

    I have BB7's on my Mukluk 2. When I first took it out of the box and mounted the front wheels, they were great! No adjustment needed, no noise. I took them out to a trail, rode through some puddles and eventually squeeled. I think you can hear me more than a mile away. So I washed them off with a hose, used an air compresser to blow off the water, and cleaned off the rotors with alcohol. The squeeling stopped, well, not as loud. I was started to hear some annoying squeeks as well, more rotational. I brought the bike into Performance and had some things done, as well as the brakes. I told them maybe the rotors need aligning or something, but they said they were fine when I got it back. I took them home and after about a block or 2 of the ride, the brakes started to squeek again. I adjusted the brakes with the dials so the squeeking stopped, but eventually the noise came back. Brought the bike back into Performance to have some other things done, as well as the brakes. Brakes were fine. Again after a few blocks of riding, the squeeks started again. Still more rotational sound. I adjusted the brakes again, via the dials by the rotors. They were loose to the point where I have to squeeze the levers hard. So I started adjusting them again and finally the noise was gone. Unfortunately, after about a block or so, the noise came back.

    So what can be the issue with my brakes being fine after being adjusted, but after some distance, the noise comes back? Should I have the brakes and rotors totally removed and then reinstalled?
    Last edited by ecub; 02-01-2012 at 02:14 PM.
    - Ed

    2012 Trek Madone 6.7 SSL
    2013 Specialized Tricross Comp Disc
    2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL
    2012 Salsa Mukluk 2

  2. #2
    Clueless genius
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    I've had a similar issue. It's very irritating, but usually easy to fix. First check and make sure that all bolts are tightened down properly. I've had plenty of squealing issues that were just due to loose bolts. Next, I'd check the pad alignment. With the BB7's it's best to have the pad that doesn't move closer to the rotor than the one that is on the actuated arm. Another thing you could do is take some scotch brite and scrub the rotor incase they're glazed over. Make sure to properly bed them afterwards as well.

    Hope this helps!
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  3. #3
    dru
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    Your brake pad adjustment may be off fair bit from thye caliper being loose as well as improperly located over the disc. When BB7s are set up properly the pads do not touch the rotor at all. Like Spykr said, the inside pad should be much closer to the disc than the outboard one.

    They are fairly easy to set up right, and once they are you are golden.

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

  4. #4
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    I've also found certain pads you can not quiet down. The best pads I have used so far are the EBC Gold Sintered, granted sintered pads do run noisy most of the time. I have had the worst luck with Avids pads, they just never got quiet.

    My fool proof method for setting up BB7s after 3 years of use is this:

    - Loosen CPS bolts, caliper bolts AND brake cable cinch bolt
    - Click inside pad all the way until it touches then do about 10 to 15 clicks back
    - Click outside all the way until it touches and is firm but do not overtighten
    - Pull cable and make sure it is firm, then cinch cable bolt down
    - Now here I usually undo both sides all the way out so the wheel is moving free
    - Tighten inside pads until it touches, once you get it to not touch do one more click
    - Same for outside but two clicks

    I realize I put a lot of additional steps but this has always worked for me on setting these up, and I have it down to a science now. Takes me maybe 10 minutes to do the whole thing. A big advantage to twisting the pads all the way out then spinning the wheel is to see if you're rotor is out of true or not or if the align it did end up off as the pads will run with then all the way out if it is wrong.

    EDIT: I like to set mine up with a LOT of modulation, usually I squeeze my levers until they almost touch the bar. Some like them to activate much sooner then this, with all this modulation the pads are a bit further out so I can get away with a few errors here and there.
    Last edited by Mr Pink57; 02-01-2012 at 03:04 PM. Reason: more info
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  5. #5
    Brake. Fix. Repeat.
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    There are a few anti-squeal gels/compounds that are used in the car world to stop brake squeal. I'm having the same problem with my avid codes and this is the next step I'm taking, I'll let you know how it turns out.

    Sounds like your brakes are only making noise when they are hot?

  6. #6
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    Thanks. The noises I was concerned about occur only at one spot, which is happens when the brakes are not applied. For example, I would hear the noise, like a whistle in the area of the tire label when the brakes are not applied. I would loosen both inner and outer pads further out 1 click. Of course, that would make me press down harder on the lever to apply the brakes. The brakes would be quiet, but eventualyl, the noise would come back again.
    - Ed

    2012 Trek Madone 6.7 SSL
    2013 Specialized Tricross Comp Disc
    2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL
    2012 Salsa Mukluk 2

  7. #7
    Brake. Fix. Repeat.
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    Sounds like you might have a warped rotor, or the caliper is mounted crookedly. It must be one of these things, or perhaps you just have to pull that hard on the brakes to make them work.

  8. #8
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    Speaking of BB7 Squeel. I just upgraded to the BB7's new rotor as well. Brakes work great but just right before lock out and LOUD squeel occurs. I have read in many forums that this is common with the BB7. What should my next plan of action be?

    A. Ride them out to see if the break in period stops the noise
    B. Rub down rotor with alcohol
    C. Sand down rotor to remove a glaze (not sure if there even is one, don't know what to look for)
    D. change brake pads to organic

  9. #9
    SANCTUS
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    I am nearly certain you bedded in the pads/rotors improperly, getting the brakes contaminated with trail spooge right off the bat? common mistake that can be corrected however you need to get the crud ground into the braking surfaces off. Proper Disc Brake Wear-In - How to Break in brake pads | Mountain bike product reviews, bike builds, trail reviews, forum, and tips - MTOBikes.com

  10. #10
    Workin for the weekend!
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    Every time my BB7's get wet, the squealing starts. A few hard stops and it's gone.

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