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  1. #1
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    MT8 Post Bleeding Issue

    My left MT8 felt like I had to pull the lever almost to the grip in order to get power. I figured I should bleed it to see if that fixes it. Well after watching both Jude and Bernards video's twice each, I tried to do it. There was a lot of air bubbles. Everytime I pulled the fluid back into the syringe, there was air bubbles gathering in the hose. I stopped when I had the air out of the hose in fluid in both the syringe and the reservoir. I capped everything back up. The brake lever was now very stiff and didnt take much to stop the front wheel on the stand or pushing the bike. The problem, is when I got on the bike and rode it. There is barely any stopping power what so ever. I changed the pads to see if that fixed the problem but I still have no stopping power. The bummer is that I have a race tomorrow and I don't have a front MT8. So what did I do wrong, and what can I do to fix this?

    Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    My left MT8 felt like I had to pull the lever almost to the grip in order to get power. I figured I should bleed it to see if that fixes it. Well after watching both Jude and Bernards video's twice each, I tried to do it. There was a lot of air bubbles. Everytime I pulled the fluid back into the syringe, there was air bubbles gathering in the hose. I stopped when I had the air out of the hose in fluid in both the syringe and the reservoir. I capped everything back up. The brake lever was now very stiff and didnt take much to stop the front wheel on the stand or pushing the bike. The problem, is when I got on the bike and rode it. There is barely any stopping power what so ever. I changed the pads to see if that fixed the problem but I still have no stopping power. The bummer is that I have a race tomorrow and I don't have a front MT8. So what did I do wrong, and what can I do to fix this?

    Thanks for the help.
    Did you remove the pads and wheel, and use the yellow spacer block while you bled the brakes?

    Sounds like you may have gotten mineral oil on your pads/rotors.
    Search in this forum and you'll find plenty of discussion. In the meantime, you can try cleaning your rotors and pads with alcohol and see if you can re-bed them.

  3. #3
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    I did all of that. Removed the pads, placed a yellow block etc. I've even put different pads on the bike that work just fine with my other brakes and I cleaned the rotors. The other pads work fine on the same Storm rotors.

  4. #4
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    Did you try lightly sanding the pads and rebedding them?

  5. #5
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    Just alcohol. But like I said, I tried new pads but still didn't work.

  6. #6
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    I have same problem, is nothing about the pads, the lever goes down to the grips, maybe aur in the lines, very dificult to bleed

  7. #7
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    I hope the race went well. Were the pads ever fully bedded in? Even new pads won't do much until they are bedded in.

  8. #8
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    The "new" pads were actually from my old Avid brakes that were barely used since I bought these brakes shortly after the bike. The brakes worked fine after I installed them and cut the cables. But over time the lever pulled too far and that's when I thought bleeding them would help. Probably going to throw these on eBay and get some Formula R1's or new 2012 XX. I'm not happy right now.


    As for the race, it went as good as it could, I won!

  9. #9
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    The breather hole for the reservoir is under the clamp, remove brake from handlebars and check is it leaking there.

    Both of my MT-6 lever bodies are dead, the insert un-threaded itself from the composite upon removal, one of them is leaking now.

  10. #10
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    Thanks, I'll look more into that. I noticed fluid but assumed it was me making a mess. I'll give that a look tonight.

  11. #11
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    Trust me, you don't want XX.

  12. #12
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    Even the 2012? I heard they fixed their issues.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    The "new" pads were actually from my old Avid brakes that were barely used since I bought these brakes shortly after the bike. The brakes worked fine after I installed them and cut the cables. But over time the lever pulled too far and that's when I thought bleeding them would help. Probably going to throw these on eBay and get some Formula R1's or new 2012 XX. I'm not happy right now.


    As for the race, it went as good as it could, I won!
    I wasnt aware that Avid pads worked on the MT8 - Good to know!

    See, you won - thanks to the lack of brakes!

  14. #14
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    Yes, they fit. Maybe not technically supposed to but they did enough to go up and down the dirt road in front of my house. I didn't go for a long ride. Didn't need to.

    As for the race, well, not really because of the bad brake, because I put the Avid Elixir front back on
    Last edited by Alexgonzalezmi; 03-19-2012 at 05:56 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    Even the 2012? I heard they fixed their issues.
    I can't speak from experience with the 2012's, but if you look at the massive number of complaints across the entire Elixir line, you have to ask yourself, do I feel lucky?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoL View Post
    I have same problem, is nothing about the pads, the lever goes down to the grips, maybe aur in the lines, very dificult to bleed
    Now i have bleeded them correctly, awesome brakes!!

  17. #17
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    Well I ordered new pads because the pull seems perfect after bleeding them again. Hopefully this solves the issue although I'm not real sure it will since I tried different although not the same type of pads and still had the issue after rebleeding again.

  18. #18
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    One other question - Are you tightening the syringe fitting into the bleed port with a wrench? You can draw air from that fitting if it's not tight enough.

    I'm not crazy about the Magura bleed kit. It seems like a toy kit compared to Avid's. And it's difficult to draw the plunger when you're trying to pull the fluid back. FYI- the Avid syringe fitting will fit the MT's.

  19. #19
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    I wasn't tightening it and the last time I did. Seemed to work much better. I'm hoping the new pads finish this off. I need the brake back so I can finish my wife's niner.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    I wasn't tightening it and the last time I did. Seemed to work much better. I'm hoping the new pads finish this off. I need the brake back so I can finish my wife's niner.
    Alex,

    this weekend I destroyed one of my MT organic pads, so I stuck an Elixir set I had (one of many from my trials and tribulations with XX brakes) into the rear, and wow, they actually jerk the bike back when I tap them. It was noticeably stronger than with the Magura pad. Modulation required a lot less force than with the M pads.

    I'm going to try another set on the front this weekend.

    They're not quite the full dimension of the Magura pads, but they seem to work better with less surface area.

    And they're cheaper

  21. #21
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    Dirtyjack, can You make a picture of MT's caliper with Avid's pads or compare size of Magura and Avid pads?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabgi View Post
    Dirtyjack, can You make a picture of MT's caliper with Avid's pads or compare size of Magura and Avid pads?
    I'm on the road till Saturday. I'll try to remember when I get back.

  23. #23
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    Finally fixed this. I put on some Koolstop pads and the bike stops on a dime. Actually stops much quicker than before with the Magura pads. So rebleeding and new pads fixed it. Happy again!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabgi View Post
    Dirtyjack, can You make a picture of MT's caliper with Avid's pads or compare size of Magura and Avid pads?
    Here ya go. dimensions shown are pads, not plates.

  25. #25
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    Thanks a lot Dirtyjack.
    OK- I'm going to buy some Elixir pads and I hope it will works.

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