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  1. #1
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    Mineral oil brake fluid....on the cheap

    Just wanted to give a heads up to people running hydraulic disc brakes compatible with mineral oil.

    Shimano charges something like $25 for a 16oz bottle. Well, I went to my local PWT store (you choose: Target, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Walgreens....) and picked up a 16oz. bottle of mineral oil for $1.52. Mind you the Shimano brake fluid is pink/red, and the mineral oil I purchased is clear. If it makes you feel better you can purchase some red food coloring and make yours pink/red as well.

    Don't fall for the hype. Go on the cheap and spend the extra coin you saved on something cool

    Keep it simple.

    BFE

  2. #2
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    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sghost
    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.
    I'm pretty sure Pentosin is synthetic.

  4. #4
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    Err, I don't drive a BMW. I ride a bike with hydraulic brakes, which call for mineral oil to be used for brake fluid. My brakes don't need Pentosin CHF 7.1, just mineral oil.

    I bought mineral oil, exactly. If you need further clarification on what I bought you can consult the link below.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

    Simple.

    Did you post in the wrong forum? This is MTBR

    Quote Originally Posted by Sghost
    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.

  5. #5
    nnn
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    I've head citroen power steering fluid is normal mineral oil with the right viscosity (very important) but have never tried it.
    "Life begins at 140" Richard Burns
    http://www.nikolay-k.com

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro

    Yeah PVD has great info there....

    especially this part

    "DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL FROM THE DRUGSTORE!!!! What you are buying at the drugstore is a laxative, not a specific industrial oil. This oil does not have the specific viscosities (up to 3X too thick) or additives for perfect functionality with a hydraulic system. A MSDS for drug store mineral oil is available HERE. If you were in a jam and just had to use this crap, use DrakeolŪ 10 or 10B, Ultraol 100NF.

    This is what Magura says about drugstore mineral oil:

    What type of oil should I use in my Magura hydraulic brakes?

    Magura Blood mineral oil is the recommended oil, which is a 10 weight mineral oil. By far, our most common problem we encounter is consumers putting off-the-shelf mineral oil (from a drug store) in their Magura hydraulic brakes. Off-the-shelf mineral oil is normally 30-50 weight which will make the brake very sluggish. In addition, off-the-shelf mineral oil has additives, perfumes and different boiling points, all of which can cause brake failure. USE ONLY MAGURA BLOOD IN YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. Use of any other fluid besides Magura Blood mineral oil will void your warranty. (HERE)"

  8. #8
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    personally I got the 1 ltr bottle from CRC for 15 EUR
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=5620

    and have done various brakes sets and I still have more than half left...

  9. #9
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    Hey, now there is some useful information. Thank you. I did actually notice that the drugstore mineral oil looked thicker.

    Guess it is a good thing that I am bleeding my rear brake again before todays ride.



    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    Yeah PVD has great info there....

    especially this part

    "DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL FROM THE DRUGSTORE!!!! What you are buying at the drugstore is a laxative, not a specific industrial oil. This oil does not have the specific viscosities (up to 3X too thick) or additives for perfect functionality with a hydraulic system. A MSDS for drug store mineral oil is available HERE. If you were in a jam and just had to use this crap, use DrakeolŪ 10 or 10B, Ultraol 100NF.

    This is what Magura says about drugstore mineral oil:

    What type of oil should I use in my Magura hydraulic brakes?

    Magura Blood mineral oil is the recommended oil, which is a 10 weight mineral oil. By far, our most common problem we encounter is consumers putting off-the-shelf mineral oil (from a drug store) in their Magura hydraulic brakes. Off-the-shelf mineral oil is normally 30-50 weight which will make the brake very sluggish. In addition, off-the-shelf mineral oil has additives, perfumes and different boiling points, all of which can cause brake failure. USE ONLY MAGURA BLOOD IN YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. Use of any other fluid besides Magura Blood mineral oil will void your warranty. (HERE)"

  10. #10
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    From Wikipedia:

    There are three basic classes of mineral oils:

    * paraffinic oils, based on n-alkanes
    * naphthenic oils, based on cycloalkanes
    * aromatic oils, based on aromatic hydrocarbons


    So which one did you get, exactly? And which one did Shimano spec? At what viscosity, with what additives?

    Brakes are kinda important to me...not something I'd personally want to screw around with trying to save a couple of bucks. My suggestion to the OP is to drink a few tablespoons of the drugstore stuff...that should clear your mind a bit ( ) and get some approved mineral oil from Shimano, Magura, or Finish Line. Worry about saving money somewhere else.
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  11. #11
    Arnborg strik
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    Does anybody know?

    If i can use Shimano's mineral oil in Magura's disc brakes??
    Single dad, and proud of it!

  12. #12
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    Okay, I'm going to go ride. I'm sure I'm going to plummet to the to the bottom of earth do to my ignorance. Pardon me for posting. I will not longer waste your time.

    You should look on the Shimano brake fluid bottle in order to find out which mineral oil they spec'd for their brakes. I no longer have any bottles to check.

    Good day! Time to ride.

    Oh ya, and FLAME ON!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dad Man Walking
    From Wikipedia:

    There are three basic classes of mineral oils:

    * paraffinic oils, based on n-alkanes
    * naphthenic oils, based on cycloalkanes
    * aromatic oils, based on aromatic hydrocarbons


    So which one did you get, exactly? And which one did Shimano spec? At what viscosity, with what additives?

    Brakes are kinda important to me...not something I'd personally want to screw around with trying to save a couple of bucks. My suggestion to the OP is to drink a few tablespoons of the drugstore stuff...that should clear your mind a bit ( ) and get some approved mineral oil from Shimano, Magura, or Finish Line. Worry about saving money somewhere else.

  13. #13
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    I used drug store mineral oil for a year in XT brakes with no problems at all.

  14. #14
    ballbuster
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    Dang, how cheap do you wanna be?

    Quote Originally Posted by BIGfatED
    Just wanted to give a heads up to people running hydraulic disc brakes compatible with mineral oil.

    Shimano charges something like $25 for a 16oz bottle. Well, I went to my local PWT store (you choose: Target, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Walgreens....) and picked up a 16oz. bottle of mineral oil for $1.52. Mind you the Shimano brake fluid is pink/red, and the mineral oil I purchased is clear. If it makes you feel better you can purchase some red food coloring and make yours pink/red as well.

    Don't fall for the hype. Go on the cheap and spend the extra coin you saved on something cool

    Keep it simple.

    BFE
    I mean, really.... that $20 bottle ($20 at my LBS) of brake fluid is like a liter. THat should last you many many many bleeds and fluid changes. I would be surprised if you emptied that bottle in less than 5 years for personal use even with multiple bikes with Shimano hydraulic brakes.

    I'll bet they are just repackaging some industrial supply mineral fluid, but at least you know when you are buying it at a huge markup in a Shimano bottle, you are actually getting the stuff Shimano engineers designed their stuff to work with, like. (bad grammar, I know, but you know what I mean)

    Personally, its not worth it to me. If they start acting funky, that is one less thing to point a finger at as a source of the problem. Maybe I am throwing money out the window, but it isn't much money. If I blow $350 on a set of brakes, another $20 in brake fluid isn't going to kill me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN
    I'm pretty sure Pentosin is synthetic.
    Incorrect. My history with Audi goes back almost 20 years now.

    11s is the synthetic/red one. "S" stands for "Synthetic".

    You can get some form of Pentosin as Febi Bilstein hydraulic fluid for Mercedes, Castrol for Jaguar, Lubro Moly Audi/VW Zentralhydralik Flussigheit, and a host of others on the cheap.

    The Pentosin is commonly available online at those storefront auto parts suppliers that are similar to QBP storefronts.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnn
    I've head citroen power steering fluid is normal mineral oil with the right viscosity (very important) but have never tried it.
    Incorrect, look above. They use a mineral type of hydraulic fluid that is specially engineered with viscosity additives, anti-foaming agents, seal neutral chemistry, and additives to handle high temperatures.

    At one point, I also tried to get an industrial supplier to make a substitute on the cheap, also using my chemistry education, and it was not possible due to the combination of additives. They put all the ingredients on the backs of cans of Pentosin, which I left in the US.

  17. #17
    AW_
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    I literally trust my brakes with my life. I'm gonna buy the OEM fluid when it comes to mineral oil. As for DOT 3/4, well, yeah, I'll get that at the auto parts store because it is more or less generic.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxotty
    I used drug store mineral oil for a year in XT brakes with no problems at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by AW_
    I literally trust my brakes with my life. I'm gonna buy the OEM fluid when it comes to mineral oil. As for DOT 3/4, well, yeah, I'll get that at the auto parts store because it is more or less generic.

    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm

  19. #19
    AW_
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro
    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm
    Just curious, what specifically did I say that you thought was ignorant? I read all the posts.

  20. #20
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    The OP strikes again....

    Ignorance is relative. I read your link PsyCro and appreciate the information. It is nice to know someone has taken the time to research all of these mineral oils, and has been able to decipher the differences between them.

    Voicing that by putting mineral oil, with a greater viscosity, into a brake system, will have that brake system end in utter failure is ignorant. Some posts in this thread were very informative, some not so much.

    My solution to purchasing mineral oil on the *cheap* is not flawless, but neither is using Stan's Notubes on 29er rims, and people are still taking the risk. Blowing a tire off of a rim at speed could put you in the hospital and in a heap of trouble. Running brakes with "drug store mineral oil"...........I see it as less of a risk.

    This is a public forum and you take things with a grain of salt. Live and learn, go against the grain, and look for new and different solutions. Such is life.

    Now stop reading this stupid post and go ride your bike. Just make sure your brakes are dialed.

    BFE

    PS. I want to post an apology to Sghost, because Pentosin CHF7 fluid (mineral oil, not synthetic) seems to be a very good solution to finding a cheap alternative to Shimano mineral oil. Thanks



    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro
    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AW_
    Just curious, what specifically did I say that you thought was ignorant? I read all the posts.

    Ahh... i just figured that you didnt read up and considered the oem stuff the only solution. So, i guess it just makes you stubborn instead .

  22. #22
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    Hope Mineral Oil is not hydraulic oil

    Lot's of talk about the use of straight mineral oil vs. hydraulic oil of a mineral oil base. I am not sure I would be so quick to go to a straight mineral oil. My company (non bike related) makes heavy industrial equipment, some of our equipment incorporates hydraulic systems and we provide explicit specifications of the type of hydraulic oil that should be used for proper operation, safety and longevity of the equipment (seals and pump, etc. . .).

    What Shimano calls for is a Mineral Oil based hydraulic oil, not mineral oil! To say that these two are the same thing is not accurate. Just because somebody can stick straight mineral oil from the pharmacy in their brakes and they work does not mean that this is the correct approach.

    Your hydraulic brake system would also work is you put straight water in as well, understanding how a hydraulic systems operations teaches you this. The water will allow for compression and the operation of the brakes - but I won't recommend water either.

    If you can get the Shimano labeled material for $30 for a half litre, that isn't a bad price. Castrol makes a mineral based hydraulic oil, it lists for $12 for a half litre. Dont' know if the viscosity is the same, additives the same or similar enough or not. But I would suggest that if you are going to not buy the Shimano, then I would at least buy the right kind of product and not to confuse straight mineral oil with a mineral oil based hydraulic oil.

  23. #23
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    Been writing around in some other threads.

    Here's what I said:
    I've done some research now. I think this is a great topic, kind of funny to see all these year old posts and how ppl thought using drug store pure M-Oil was good...lmao.

    Pentosin actually differs a bit from most hydraulic fluids with its rating @ "18 cSt@40C/6.0 cSt@100C/VI 340." So it's thinner than Castrol Brand (and Shimano)

    What's great about Pentosin is that its functional down to -40c. You'd be frozen by then and dead. Also, it'll work to 110c, past boiling point. So, great for variable environments..not that you should be in those environments in the first place....You get what I'm saying. Plus, another article confirmed that Pentosin is of a lighter WT (ratings compared), more so than other fluids, including Shimano's M-Oil. One should actually see an increase in performance from using Pentosin 7.1 or LHM Plus (Green). Do NOT use the CHF11S.

    Btw, Pentosin 7.1 is not synthetic, CHF11S mix is.

    Pure Mineral Oil from Drug Stores is NOT the right kind. It's much heavier (wt) and you'll lose performance, if not degrade internal housings. So unless you want your brakes to: A) Smell Good like its your guys first date, B) Shi* Pistons Out, C) Stop working/Work too slow as you fly off the cliff, I would not use Drug Store M-Oil. It's not even rated as a HYDRAULIC FLUID. Get it? Hydraulic Mineral Oil vs. Pure (Laxative) Mineral Oil...hmmm.

    Pentosin 7.1 is perfect. Do people really think that Auto-Grade Hydra M-Oil CANNOT handle being in a simple sealed Brake system? It's not like Auto-Grade M-Oil wants to degrade your internal housing components lol. If anything Pentosin is a higher grade made to handle higher pressures with the RIGHT additives. It'll work, so stop buying Rebranded Mineral Oil as Shimano goes to the bank laughing at our stupidity and ignorance. Open your eyes, and don't fall for the BS.

    Pentosin is the way to go and has my FULL PERSONAL Recommendation. I actually drive a Mercedes so naturally as per recommended I have a Pentosin 7.1, I was happy when I figured all this out and now my Shimano Saint M810 brakes are even more responsive/stronger to the point where I feel they'll rip out my rotors...
    Easy Does It.

  24. #24
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    To stay in the spirit of the posts, why would you want to use mineral oil in a brake. Ever seen a car/motorcycle with mineral oil?

    DOT fluid all the way, babe.

  25. #25
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    Been using Pentosin for 5 or more years in my brakes without issues other than better performance in the cold.

    I recently used Pentosin in one of my fox shocks during service, cause I can..and its been several months as my main ride and the shock damper is good so far.

    DOT fluid is best when its used to make use of its high boiling point. I've worked on so many of my autos brakes in the past 35 years and i hate the stuff..kinda like baby wipes, hate the smell. And it hates paint. It inhales water. Not as slippery as mineral either.
    lean forward

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