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  1. #1
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    Mineral oil brake fluid....on the cheap

    Just wanted to give a heads up to people running hydraulic disc brakes compatible with mineral oil.

    Shimano charges something like $25 for a 16oz bottle. Well, I went to my local PWT store (you choose: Target, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Walgreens....) and picked up a 16oz. bottle of mineral oil for $1.52. Mind you the Shimano brake fluid is pink/red, and the mineral oil I purchased is clear. If it makes you feel better you can purchase some red food coloring and make yours pink/red as well.

    Don't fall for the hype. Go on the cheap and spend the extra coin you saved on something cool

    Keep it simple.

    BFE

  2. #2
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    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sghost
    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.
    I'm pretty sure Pentosin is synthetic.

  4. #4
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    Err, I don't drive a BMW. I ride a bike with hydraulic brakes, which call for mineral oil to be used for brake fluid. My brakes don't need Pentosin CHF 7.1, just mineral oil.

    I bought mineral oil, exactly. If you need further clarification on what I bought you can consult the link below.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

    Simple.

    Did you post in the wrong forum? This is MTBR

    Quote Originally Posted by Sghost
    errr, I dont know exactly what you bought...

    But use Pentosin CHF 7.1 fluid. Its used in some BMW power steering systems.

  5. #5
    nnn
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    I've head citroen power steering fluid is normal mineral oil with the right viscosity (very important) but have never tried it.
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  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro

    Yeah PVD has great info there....

    especially this part

    "DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL FROM THE DRUGSTORE!!!! What you are buying at the drugstore is a laxative, not a specific industrial oil. This oil does not have the specific viscosities (up to 3X too thick) or additives for perfect functionality with a hydraulic system. A MSDS for drug store mineral oil is available HERE. If you were in a jam and just had to use this crap, use Drakeol® 10 or 10B, Ultraol 100NF.

    This is what Magura says about drugstore mineral oil:

    What type of oil should I use in my Magura hydraulic brakes?

    Magura Blood mineral oil is the recommended oil, which is a 10 weight mineral oil. By far, our most common problem we encounter is consumers putting off-the-shelf mineral oil (from a drug store) in their Magura hydraulic brakes. Off-the-shelf mineral oil is normally 30-50 weight which will make the brake very sluggish. In addition, off-the-shelf mineral oil has additives, perfumes and different boiling points, all of which can cause brake failure. USE ONLY MAGURA BLOOD IN YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. Use of any other fluid besides Magura Blood mineral oil will void your warranty. (HERE)"

  8. #8
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    personally I got the 1 ltr bottle from CRC for 15 EUR
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=5620

    and have done various brakes sets and I still have more than half left...

  9. #9
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    Hey, now there is some useful information. Thank you. I did actually notice that the drugstore mineral oil looked thicker.

    Guess it is a good thing that I am bleeding my rear brake again before todays ride.



    Quote Originally Posted by crisillo
    Yeah PVD has great info there....

    especially this part

    "DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL FROM THE DRUGSTORE!!!! What you are buying at the drugstore is a laxative, not a specific industrial oil. This oil does not have the specific viscosities (up to 3X too thick) or additives for perfect functionality with a hydraulic system. A MSDS for drug store mineral oil is available HERE. If you were in a jam and just had to use this crap, use Drakeol® 10 or 10B, Ultraol 100NF.

    This is what Magura says about drugstore mineral oil:

    What type of oil should I use in my Magura hydraulic brakes?

    Magura Blood mineral oil is the recommended oil, which is a 10 weight mineral oil. By far, our most common problem we encounter is consumers putting off-the-shelf mineral oil (from a drug store) in their Magura hydraulic brakes. Off-the-shelf mineral oil is normally 30-50 weight which will make the brake very sluggish. In addition, off-the-shelf mineral oil has additives, perfumes and different boiling points, all of which can cause brake failure. USE ONLY MAGURA BLOOD IN YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. Use of any other fluid besides Magura Blood mineral oil will void your warranty. (HERE)"

  10. #10
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    From Wikipedia:

    There are three basic classes of mineral oils:

    * paraffinic oils, based on n-alkanes
    * naphthenic oils, based on cycloalkanes
    * aromatic oils, based on aromatic hydrocarbons


    So which one did you get, exactly? And which one did Shimano spec? At what viscosity, with what additives?

    Brakes are kinda important to me...not something I'd personally want to screw around with trying to save a couple of bucks. My suggestion to the OP is to drink a few tablespoons of the drugstore stuff...that should clear your mind a bit ( ) and get some approved mineral oil from Shimano, Magura, or Finish Line. Worry about saving money somewhere else.
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  11. #11
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    Does anybody know?

    If i can use Shimano's mineral oil in Magura's disc brakes??

  12. #12
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    Okay, I'm going to go ride. I'm sure I'm going to plummet to the to the bottom of earth do to my ignorance. Pardon me for posting. I will not longer waste your time.

    You should look on the Shimano brake fluid bottle in order to find out which mineral oil they spec'd for their brakes. I no longer have any bottles to check.

    Good day! Time to ride.

    Oh ya, and FLAME ON!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dad Man Walking
    From Wikipedia:

    There are three basic classes of mineral oils:

    * paraffinic oils, based on n-alkanes
    * naphthenic oils, based on cycloalkanes
    * aromatic oils, based on aromatic hydrocarbons


    So which one did you get, exactly? And which one did Shimano spec? At what viscosity, with what additives?

    Brakes are kinda important to me...not something I'd personally want to screw around with trying to save a couple of bucks. My suggestion to the OP is to drink a few tablespoons of the drugstore stuff...that should clear your mind a bit ( ) and get some approved mineral oil from Shimano, Magura, or Finish Line. Worry about saving money somewhere else.

  13. #13
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    I used drug store mineral oil for a year in XT brakes with no problems at all.

  14. #14
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    Dang, how cheap do you wanna be?

    Quote Originally Posted by BIGfatED
    Just wanted to give a heads up to people running hydraulic disc brakes compatible with mineral oil.

    Shimano charges something like $25 for a 16oz bottle. Well, I went to my local PWT store (you choose: Target, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Walgreens....) and picked up a 16oz. bottle of mineral oil for $1.52. Mind you the Shimano brake fluid is pink/red, and the mineral oil I purchased is clear. If it makes you feel better you can purchase some red food coloring and make yours pink/red as well.

    Don't fall for the hype. Go on the cheap and spend the extra coin you saved on something cool

    Keep it simple.

    BFE
    I mean, really.... that $20 bottle ($20 at my LBS) of brake fluid is like a liter. THat should last you many many many bleeds and fluid changes. I would be surprised if you emptied that bottle in less than 5 years for personal use even with multiple bikes with Shimano hydraulic brakes.

    I'll bet they are just repackaging some industrial supply mineral fluid, but at least you know when you are buying it at a huge markup in a Shimano bottle, you are actually getting the stuff Shimano engineers designed their stuff to work with, like. (bad grammar, I know, but you know what I mean)

    Personally, its not worth it to me. If they start acting funky, that is one less thing to point a finger at as a source of the problem. Maybe I am throwing money out the window, but it isn't much money. If I blow $350 on a set of brakes, another $20 in brake fluid isn't going to kill me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN
    I'm pretty sure Pentosin is synthetic.
    Incorrect. My history with Audi goes back almost 20 years now.

    11s is the synthetic/red one. "S" stands for "Synthetic".

    You can get some form of Pentosin as Febi Bilstein hydraulic fluid for Mercedes, Castrol for Jaguar, Lubro Moly Audi/VW Zentralhydralik Flussigheit, and a host of others on the cheap.

    The Pentosin is commonly available online at those storefront auto parts suppliers that are similar to QBP storefronts.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnn
    I've head citroen power steering fluid is normal mineral oil with the right viscosity (very important) but have never tried it.
    Incorrect, look above. They use a mineral type of hydraulic fluid that is specially engineered with viscosity additives, anti-foaming agents, seal neutral chemistry, and additives to handle high temperatures.

    At one point, I also tried to get an industrial supplier to make a substitute on the cheap, also using my chemistry education, and it was not possible due to the combination of additives. They put all the ingredients on the backs of cans of Pentosin, which I left in the US.

  17. #17
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    I literally trust my brakes with my life. I'm gonna buy the OEM fluid when it comes to mineral oil. As for DOT 3/4, well, yeah, I'll get that at the auto parts store because it is more or less generic.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxotty
    I used drug store mineral oil for a year in XT brakes with no problems at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by AW_
    I literally trust my brakes with my life. I'm gonna buy the OEM fluid when it comes to mineral oil. As for DOT 3/4, well, yeah, I'll get that at the auto parts store because it is more or less generic.

    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro
    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm
    Just curious, what specifically did I say that you thought was ignorant? I read all the posts.

  20. #20
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    The OP strikes again....

    Ignorance is relative. I read your link PsyCro and appreciate the information. It is nice to know someone has taken the time to research all of these mineral oils, and has been able to decipher the differences between them.

    Voicing that by putting mineral oil, with a greater viscosity, into a brake system, will have that brake system end in utter failure is ignorant. Some posts in this thread were very informative, some not so much.

    My solution to purchasing mineral oil on the *cheap* is not flawless, but neither is using Stan's Notubes on 29er rims, and people are still taking the risk. Blowing a tire off of a rim at speed could put you in the hospital and in a heap of trouble. Running brakes with "drug store mineral oil"...........I see it as less of a risk.

    This is a public forum and you take things with a grain of salt. Live and learn, go against the grain, and look for new and different solutions. Such is life.

    Now stop reading this stupid post and go ride your bike. Just make sure your brakes are dialed.

    BFE

    PS. I want to post an apology to Sghost, because Pentosin CHF7 fluid (mineral oil, not synthetic) seems to be a very good solution to finding a cheap alternative to Shimano mineral oil. Thanks



    Quote Originally Posted by PsyCro
    Im sorry but some posts seriously border on ignorant.
    Are you guys even reading the previous posts??
    I posted this earlier... http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikemineraloil.htm

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AW_
    Just curious, what specifically did I say that you thought was ignorant? I read all the posts.

    Ahh... i just figured that you didnt read up and considered the oem stuff the only solution. So, i guess it just makes you stubborn instead .

  22. #22
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    Hope Mineral Oil is not hydraulic oil

    Lot's of talk about the use of straight mineral oil vs. hydraulic oil of a mineral oil base. I am not sure I would be so quick to go to a straight mineral oil. My company (non bike related) makes heavy industrial equipment, some of our equipment incorporates hydraulic systems and we provide explicit specifications of the type of hydraulic oil that should be used for proper operation, safety and longevity of the equipment (seals and pump, etc. . .).

    What Shimano calls for is a Mineral Oil based hydraulic oil, not mineral oil! To say that these two are the same thing is not accurate. Just because somebody can stick straight mineral oil from the pharmacy in their brakes and they work does not mean that this is the correct approach.

    Your hydraulic brake system would also work is you put straight water in as well, understanding how a hydraulic systems operations teaches you this. The water will allow for compression and the operation of the brakes - but I won't recommend water either.

    If you can get the Shimano labeled material for $30 for a half litre, that isn't a bad price. Castrol makes a mineral based hydraulic oil, it lists for $12 for a half litre. Dont' know if the viscosity is the same, additives the same or similar enough or not. But I would suggest that if you are going to not buy the Shimano, then I would at least buy the right kind of product and not to confuse straight mineral oil with a mineral oil based hydraulic oil.

  23. #23
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    Been writing around in some other threads.

    Here's what I said:
    I've done some research now. I think this is a great topic, kind of funny to see all these year old posts and how ppl thought using drug store pure M-Oil was good...lmao.

    Pentosin actually differs a bit from most hydraulic fluids with its rating @ "18 cSt@40C/6.0 cSt@100C/VI 340." So it's thinner than Castrol Brand (and Shimano)

    What's great about Pentosin is that its functional down to -40c. You'd be frozen by then and dead. Also, it'll work to 110c, past boiling point. So, great for variable environments..not that you should be in those environments in the first place....You get what I'm saying. Plus, another article confirmed that Pentosin is of a lighter WT (ratings compared), more so than other fluids, including Shimano's M-Oil. One should actually see an increase in performance from using Pentosin 7.1 or LHM Plus (Green). Do NOT use the CHF11S.

    Btw, Pentosin 7.1 is not synthetic, CHF11S mix is.

    Pure Mineral Oil from Drug Stores is NOT the right kind. It's much heavier (wt) and you'll lose performance, if not degrade internal housings. So unless you want your brakes to: A) Smell Good like its your guys first date, B) Shi* Pistons Out, C) Stop working/Work too slow as you fly off the cliff, I would not use Drug Store M-Oil. It's not even rated as a HYDRAULIC FLUID. Get it? Hydraulic Mineral Oil vs. Pure (Laxative) Mineral Oil...hmmm.

    Pentosin 7.1 is perfect. Do people really think that Auto-Grade Hydra M-Oil CANNOT handle being in a simple sealed Brake system? It's not like Auto-Grade M-Oil wants to degrade your internal housing components lol. If anything Pentosin is a higher grade made to handle higher pressures with the RIGHT additives. It'll work, so stop buying Rebranded Mineral Oil as Shimano goes to the bank laughing at our stupidity and ignorance. Open your eyes, and don't fall for the BS.

    Pentosin is the way to go and has my FULL PERSONAL Recommendation. I actually drive a Mercedes so naturally as per recommended I have a Pentosin 7.1, I was happy when I figured all this out and now my Shimano Saint M810 brakes are even more responsive/stronger to the point where I feel they'll rip out my rotors...
    Easy Does It.

  24. #24
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    To stay in the spirit of the posts, why would you want to use mineral oil in a brake. Ever seen a car/motorcycle with mineral oil?

    DOT fluid all the way, babe.

  25. #25
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    Been using Pentosin for 5 or more years in my brakes without issues other than better performance in the cold.

    I recently used Pentosin in one of my fox shocks during service, cause I can..and its been several months as my main ride and the shock damper is good so far.

    DOT fluid is best when its used to make use of its high boiling point. I've worked on so many of my autos brakes in the past 35 years and i hate the stuff..kinda like baby wipes, hate the smell. And it hates paint. It inhales water. Not as slippery as mineral either.
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  26. #26
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    Learux, to answer you question, yes! There are actually quite a few cars that use mineral oil based hydraulic fluid - BMW, Audi, Jaguar and others.

    The use of a mineral oil based hyd. fluid is determined based on the parts used in the hydraulic system and the materials that are suitable for them to be exposed to.

    Spicy, I ended up with the Castrol HSMO (hydraulic system mineral oil) which is a Jaguar specified part (actually has a Jaguar part number). My BMW dealer no longer carries the Pantosin as it was discontinued for use in their cars about 2 decades ago and has been replaced on newer cars (making it tougher to find, but certainly not impossible).

    Not one single car parts store had either product in my area!

    In reality, there are a lot of fluids that will allow the brakes to work. The bigger question is which of them are safe for your seals and valves over time. To date, I would be 100% comfortable with three products that I know of, Shimano, Castro HSMO and the Pentosin (suitable 2 choices as referenced by Spicy).

    The Castrol HSMO at the Jaguar shop was $7.50 for 500 ml.

  27. #27
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    ^ Castrol has very similar properties to Pentosin. Yeah, all the new cars are switching over to synthetic I believe. And our 'Cedes uses a lot of that stuff up, so we bought a 6L pack...hence my surplus lol. Should last me a lifetime. But Castrol is just as good, no doubt.

    I've seen Pentosin in my local stores, but online has the best deals for cheap as $25 for 6L.

    And not a bad price. Shimano for 50ml is like 12 dollars lol.
    Easy Does It.

  28. #28
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    I have been tinkering with Euro Cars for about 15 years now and have seen Pentosin go from CHF 7.1 to CHF 11S to the new standard, CHF 202.

    I love shimano brakes (XTR M988) and ALSO love riding in the cold. Below 20 F I have experienced not only sketchy braking but pure lack of braking with the OEM fluid. This is a major safety issue with OEM fluid so I'm not that afraid of trying something new. I flushed my power steering in my Audi over Thanksgiving and had some extra 202. This IS a synthetic. It's designed to be compatible with the older mineral based CHF 7.1 fluid (that fluid has been discontinued, so it has to be)

    Last night I bled a spare Shimano XT M785 with the 202 and installed it as my rear brake. What I can tell you now is that lever actuation feels identical at 65 degrees F and there are obviously no leaks. Hopefully we'll ride this week and hopefully it will be super cold so I can compare.

    What I won't know is long term stability. CHF 202 is used in such a variety of cars I'm thinking it will be just fine on the seals of these brakes. CHF 11s (the older yet still fully synthetic stuff) looks to have a slightly lower kinematic viscosity than the CHF 202 so it may work even better.

    Stay tuned.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmanchin View Post
    I have been tinkering with Euro Cars for about 15 years now and have seen Pentosin go from CHF 7.1 to CHF 11S to the new standard, CHF 202.

    I love shimano brakes (XTR M988) and ALSO love riding in the cold. Below 20 F I have experienced not only sketchy braking but pure lack of braking with the OEM fluid. This is a major safety issue with OEM fluid so I'm not that afraid of trying something new. I flushed my power steering in my Audi over Thanksgiving and had some extra 202. This IS a synthetic. It's designed to be compatible with the older mineral based CHF 7.1 fluid (that fluid has been discontinued, so it has to be)

    Last night I bled a spare Shimano XT M785 with the 202 and installed it as my rear brake. What I can tell you now is that lever actuation feels identical at 65 degrees F and there are obviously no leaks. Hopefully we'll ride this week and hopefully it will be super cold so I can compare.

    What I won't know is long term stability. CHF 202 is used in such a variety of cars I'm thinking it will be just fine on the seals of these brakes. CHF 11s (the older yet still fully synthetic stuff) looks to have a slightly lower kinematic viscosity than the CHF 202 so it may work even better.

    Stay tuned.
    pinkbike(dot)com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=140344

    Here's my write-up I did a long time ago. Still using 7.1S and in XTR M988 w/ 810 Calipers. Been 7months so far, no problems what so ever. Still solid braking and the noticeably consistent power over temperatures. Now, I know they discontinued the one I use, but I suspect the performance will be the same. The qualities of any Hydro M-Oil is that they offer the system excellent corrosion superiority vs. DOT. So doubt anything will come up as I have had anything wrong for this time.

    Now, can I mix the 7.1s with the new 202? Cause I know the Synthetic wasn't suppose to be mixed with the older 7.1 or LHM Plus series?
    Easy Does It.

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    Rocking. This thread makes me happy

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    Spicy.Mike, the 202 bottle says to NOT mix with older 7.1.

    The bad news is the brake I was testing with CHF 202 still freezes up in the cold. It was only around 25 degree when I was out this week. I guess I'll just throw on those Elixir's I have sitting around. C'mon Shimano, give us a fluid we can use year around.

    Good news is, no seal swelling or leaks with the Pentosin CHF 202. I would use the CHF 11s next time. It's a wee bit closer to the shimano fluid viscosity.
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  32. #32
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    So I had to redo my hydraulic line to my front brake. Right before a ride, I find out I don't have enough fluid because I wasted on a botched bleed. No time to go to LBS. So I went to drug store and bought some Johnson and Johnson mineral oil.

    It actually worked. But I noticed the viscosity sucked when it got cold out. And who knows what it'll do when I'm on a long downhill.

    In any case, I bought a 1liter jug of the Shimano oil for $20. I think I still have 0.9l left...probably enough to bleed brakes for the next decade or so...
    Just get out and ride!

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    Anyone ever had an issue with XT brakes leaking at the lever piston after useing Pentosin 7.1? Used it for about a year and now have a leak at the lever. Wondering if Pentosin causes issues with the Shimano Seals.

    Thanks.

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    I just filled my Shimano BR-M486 brakes with Audi power steering fluid. It's just a mineral oil and the viscosity is the same. So far so good, my braking feels strong.

  36. #36
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    Seriously Drug store mineral oil is just plain stupid. Might as well just pee in there. It's fluid right? And free?

    You can put whatever you like in your brakes, they will fail and you can sell em to some ignorant buyer as "needs a bleed" and be on to your next set. That's grounds for a time-out.

    Buy the right brake fluid, hell get it cheap and post it here, but don't spread the idea that this Drug Store Mineral oil is any where near ok. For the sake of the ignorant readers among us.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by traffic002 View Post
    So I had to redo my hydraulic line to my front brake. Right before a ride, I find out I don't have enough fluid because I wasted on a botched bleed. No time to go to LBS. So I went to drug store and bought some Johnson and Johnson mineral oil.

    It actually worked. But I noticed the viscosity sucked when it got cold out. And who knows what it'll do when I'm on a long downhill.

    In any case, I bought a 1liter jug of the Shimano oil for $20. I think I still have 0.9l left...probably enough to bleed brakes for the next decade or so...
    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    Seriously Drug store mineral oil is just plain stupid. Might as well just pee in there. It's fluid right? And free?

    You can put whatever you like in your brakes, they will fail and you can sell em to some ignorant buyer as "needs a bleed" and be on to your next set. That's grounds for a time-out.

    Buy the right brake fluid, hell get it cheap and post it here, but don't spread the idea that this Drug Store Mineral oil is any where near ok. For the sake of the ignorant readers among us.
    I read:
    Right before a ride, I find out I don't have enough fluid because I wasted on a botched bleed. No time to go to LBS.
    Seems like a good idea.
    In that case any mineral oil will do.
    But if you 've got time on your side, just order the real thing.

    (instead of peeing in your brakes, I would use plain water)
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  38. #38
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    What about DOT5? Its OK for my HARLEY.
    Will it mess up the brakes on my mobile if it calls for mineral oil?

  39. #39
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    Don't know any bikes that use DOT5. DOT4 and DOT5.1 yes, but not DOT5. One reason for using the mfg spec fluid is to make sure the seals and stuff are compatible, and don't get eaten up by the fluid. That and to ensure optimum performance.

    Generally speaking, the simple and easy path is to just get desensitized to spending $10-20 for various fluids and small replacement parts etc. to fix your bike, if you want it to work at its best without the worries of "surprise consequences" and voided warranties. There's also chain lube, fork bath fluid, damper fluid, air piston fluid, tire sealant, carbon "grease" or friction paste, various greases for different parts of the bike... buy each once and they should last years, but pay attention to shelf life (ex. DOT5.1). Not to mention all the specialty tools, like for the BB cups, the chain, spoke nipples, etc. Hard to be cheap if you want the convenience of doing maintenance in your own mini-shop... perhaps try to research to see if there's a bike co-op near you, which might stock the mineral oil (and/or other fluids, specialty tools, spare parts). Doing all this research to save $10 or so over the course of 2+ years... I dunno, I'd research for a big purchase, but I think my time is more valuable than this.

    Looked up the Pentosin 7.1 and found a thread on it: - Pentosin Hydraulic Mineral Oil - Save Money & Gain Performance - - Pinkbike Forum Dang, spicy mike is spreading the word all over. This, I'll pass on, but I'll try that Torco equiv over Fox green 10wt.

  40. #40
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    DOT5 fluid damages some car brake seals. Don't out that stuff in brake system made for mineral oil.
    Just get out and ride!

  41. #41
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    DOT 5 is a silicone based brake fluid. Not to be confused with DOT 5.1 which is a polyethylene glycol based fluid. These two are not compatible.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

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  42. #42
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    relevant thread. user has issues with shimano brakes after using drug store mineral oil
    Ridiculous Resistance in the lines when bleeding M785 XT brakes

  43. #43
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    not so simple

    Quote Originally Posted by BIGfatED View Post
    Err, I don't drive a BMW. I ride a bike with hydraulic brakes, which call for mineral oil to be used for brake fluid. My brakes don't need Pentosin CHF 7.1, just mineral oil.

    I bought mineral oil, exactly. If you need further clarification on what I bought you can consult the link below.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

    Simple.

    Did you post in the wrong forum? This is MTBR
    Pentosin 7.1 IS mineral oil.Pentosin 11 is ynthetic. Fork and suspension oil ARE mineral oil. These oils are typically 5-15wt viscosity. Drugstore mineral oil is much thicker. Will it work? Yes, but brake response will be sluggish and the levers will feel spongy. It may also boil under heavy usage. However after much research I have found a cheap source of compatible mineral oil. Coastal hydraulic jack oil iso 32 mineral oil and contains the same stabilizers and anti foaming agents as suspension fluids and has a high flash point for brake systems. It is sold at Auto zone for $5 a quart. ERRRR better have someone take a look at your speech tick ERRR

  44. #44
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    Weird. Just read this thread. Ridden xtr and xt brakes exclusively for 8 years and 10000 miles+ on drugstore mineral oil. I guess I'm stupid. 0 problems. No replaces seals, original xtr that I bought 7 years ago have been flawless, maybe 2 bleeds in 6-7000 miles?
    After reading this thread, though, think I'll get some Castrol.

  45. #45
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    It means you likely haven't gotten your fluid very hot which is not surprising as Shimano has taken many precautions to keep heat out of the fluid. My fluid typically runs less than 100F over ambient when pushed fairly hard on cross country style riding with several decent hills to go down. I'm 240lbs before gear. Even water would work for me in most instances.

    But, there are some really fun downhill runs with 8,000' descents hitting over 41mph in places where the rotors hit over 700F and the fluid hits 350F+. That's where you would run into trouble.

    The other problem is viscosity index. Manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to provide a fluid with a very high VI. The goal is to have a fluid that stays close to the same viscosity no matter what the temperature is. You want it to thin less when hot and thicken less when cold. This is essential for consistent performance when it can go from ambient to 300F in 5 minutes in the caliper and literally thin out 10x its original viscosity and this is for a good oil. The cheaper stuff can literally thin out in the order of 100x its original viscosity.

    Many liquids will work and feel great. It's not until you push the thermal limits that you run into unexpected and dangerous problems.
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  46. #46
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    Wow. Old thread resurrected.

    I bought pentosin about 4 years ago and am using in xt brakes. They have worked great and without issues. Biggest reason was I wanted to use them on a fat bike in cold winter conditions. I had a set laying around and didn't want to buy new brakes.

    The pentosin 7.1 Has been working great the entire time. I've ridden in terms down to -20F without significant performance degradation.

  47. #47
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    Pentosin 7.1 is a commonly accepted mineral based hydraulic brake fluid that has been 'tribal' accepted for many years. Unfortunately for those who use it, it has been discontinued, but can still be found on FleaBay on occasion. The point is that it was designed to be a hydraulic brake fluid with corrosion inhibitors and stabilizers as part of its design, not as a drug store laxative and make-up remover.
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  48. #48
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    This still baffles me.

    You drop $2000, 3000, 4000, 6000 on a rig and you go cheap on the fluid for the brakes the mfg specifies??? ok a shimano bottle cost you $15 more than an automotive brand. At least you know the shimano stuff will work correctly.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  49. #49
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    Yes! I bought a bottle of Shimano fluid and it lasted a few years. $5 a year!? What a ripoff!! I'm going to Walmart to buy a 5 gallon jug!
    My name is Chris and I ride a Prophet 650b with a Lefty.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prophet Julio View Post
    Yes! I bought a bottle of Shimano fluid and it lasted a few years. $5 a year!? What a ripoff!! I'm going to Walmart to buy a 5 gallon jug!
    Ha...yeah this is quite accurate. Truthfully I wasn't opposed to the shimano because of price. It was low temp performance. Otherwise, I could care less about a few bucks on approved stuff. Which I also have a bottle of and works great on my fs bike.

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