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  1. #1
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    Magura MT8 leaking

    One of my MT8's is leaking behind the master cylinder where it mounts to the bars. There's a tiny hole there and the fluid I is squishing its way out. What is this hole for and how can I fix this?

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  2. #2
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    I think that's a weep hole. I had that when I first installed my MT8s. Remove the lever and clean it up.

  3. #3
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    If you have an early version, it was possible to have the mounting stud un-thread while removing the clamp nuts. The studs actually clamp the red cover to seal the master cylinder. If this is a new problem and you just happened to remove the clamp or loosened it for any reason this might be your problem. You can double nut the stud and re-tighten to seal it. I can tell you this too, I still heard the "squishy" sound for a couple of days after I tightened it because of the fluid that was already trapped between the gasket and cover. This is all first hand experience I have had with my set, not guessing. I hope it helps.

    Magura USA told me that they have an updated the design slightly to fix this. I have a new design and an old design, but by looking at it, I can not tell the difference.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info. It is an old version so I'll try that trick.

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

  5. #5
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hello Alex

    BPD 131 is correct (thanks BPD) that the hole is "as designed" a weep hole for atmospheric pressure changes which allow an area for expanding fluid when heated and also to allow the automatic pad wear adjustment feature of all modern hydraulic brakes.
    If there wasn't a "weep" hole, think of the thumb over the end of a straw as it will hold the fluid in the straw until uncovered, then the fluid will be released.
    The weep hole allows this fluid to drop and to allow the brake pads to always self adjust due to pad wear so the engagement point (lever contact point) stays the same.

    So, Your fluid evidence is most likely from the bleed process and not a leak. As BPD mentioned, the early designs had a "triangulated" posts that provided a natural hardware locking feature and is common on all designs coming out of Germany for autos and motos but we have changed this quite awhile ago.
    Even so, If you have an early design, Its repairable like BPD states by locking two nuts together and re-tightening the stud but this may not be your issue.

    I find on every bleed (due to the 45 degree MC position we recommend) allows any residual fluid from the MC bleed port after removing the syringe to run down the MC body directly to the clamp back plate/handlebar and can work its way in between the bar and weep hole.

    The fluid can then position itself right in this junction and cover the weep hole slightly and when you pull the brake lever, the bladder inside the MC slightly pulses and can push and pull the residual fluid making this "squish" sound. Think of a squirt gun.
    There is nothing to worry about as it will not adversely affect function but if it bothers you, like BPD stated, remove the MC and just wipe the residual fluid clean.
    Your done!

    Let me know if there is anything more I can assist with. Don't hesitate.

    Thanks for your patience!
    Jude

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexgonzalezmi View Post
    Thanks for the info. It is an old version so I'll try that trick.

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
    If cleaning up around the weep hole doesn't fix the issue, then maybe you should look into that. It's likely just a bit of oil around the weep hole causing the issue. No need to overthink it. My advice came from first hand experience as well, BPD...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    My advice came from first hand experience as well, BPD...
    I was not insinuating otherwise, nor did I have your post in mind when typing that. In fact in your post you stated that it happened to you and your set during install. Sorry if you felt it was direct at you or your reply. I was simply trying to provide an example of what did happen in my case which was in addition to your find.

  8. #8
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    All Good BPD, no worries and thanks for your expert comments and assistance!
    Jude

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by judemonica View Post
    Hello Alex

    BPD 131 is correct (thanks BPD) that the hole is "as designed" a weep hole for atmospheric pressure changes which allow an area for expanding fluid when heated and also to allow the automatic pad wear adjustment feature of all modern hydraulic brakes.
    If there wasn't a "weep" hole, think of the thumb over the end of a straw as it will hold the fluid in the straw until uncovered, then the fluid will be released.
    The weep hole allows this fluid to drop and to allow the brake pads to always self adjust due to pad wear so the engagement point (lever contact point) stays the same.

    So, Your fluid evidence is most likely from the bleed process and not a leak. As BPD mentioned, the early designs had a "triangulated" posts that provided a natural hardware locking feature and is common on all designs coming out of Germany for autos and motos but we have changed this quite awhile ago.
    Even so, If you have an early design, Its repairable like BPD states by locking two nuts together and re-tightening the stud but this may not be your issue.

    I find on every bleed (due to the 45 degree MC position we recommend) allows any residual fluid from the MC bleed port after removing the syringe to run down the MC body directly to the clamp back plate/handlebar and can work its way in between the bar and weep hole.

    The fluid can then position itself right in this junction and cover the weep hole slightly and when you pull the brake lever, the bladder inside the MC slightly pulses and can push and pull the residual fluid making this "squish" sound. Think of a squirt gun.
    There is nothing to worry about as it will not adversely affect function but if it bothers you, like BPD stated, remove the MC and just wipe the residual fluid clean.
    Your done!

    Let me know if there is anything more I can assist with. Don't hesitate.

    Thanks for your patience!
    Hi,
    I ve the same problem ... I have tried to bleed my MT8 and the brake lever are squizing ... when I put some pressure with a seringe by the bleed air hole of the lever, I can see oil coming out between the the red part and the bar????
    How I have to do?
    How to know if is the new design or not?
    Thanks

  10. #10
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hi Frederic,

    First, do not thread a bleed fitting into the MC. Only use the nipple of the syringe (no added hose or fitting) and press it into the bleed port on the MC.

    But you should be able to pressurize the MC with a filled syringe in this way without fluid pushing past the internal bladder.
    The pressure will expand the internal bladder and pass just the smallest amount of residual fluid but nothing significant.
    Make sure the fluid you see is not from a prior messy bleed so clean well, let dry and then test.

    5 year warranty will cover a leaky MC.

    Good luck and let me know what we need to do next.

    Jude



    Quote Originally Posted by Frederic Zanchi View Post
    Hi,
    I ve the same problem ... I have tried to bleed my MT8 and the brake lever are squizing ... when I put some pressure with a seringe by the bleed air hole of the lever, I can see oil coming out between the the red part and the bar????
    How I have to do?
    How to know if is the new design or not?
    Thanks
    Jude

  11. #11
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    Hi Jude and thanks for your quick answer.
    Then I cleaned up all the parts and make a new bleeding and no squizing at all...
    Good new but...
    The bleeding is not good... Travel of the lever is too big... I like when you touch the brake lever then you have directly the brake on.
    Then I had a look on the forum and find a other bleeding solutions. I make it with a smaller transport tool who makes 8mm instead 10mm.
    It s better but the travel and power are not perfect...
    Do you have some tips for me?
    I m a little bit disappointed about the brake till now...
    Thanks in advance
    Quote Originally Posted by judemonica View Post
    Hi Frederic,

    First, do not thread a bleed fitting into the MC. Only use the nipple of the syringe (no added hose or fitting) and press it into the bleed port on the MC.

    But you should be able to pressurize the MC with a filled syringe in this way without fluid pushing past the internal bladder.
    The pressure will expand the internal bladder and pass just the smallest amount of residual fluid but nothing significant.
    Make sure the fluid you see is not from a prior messy bleed so clean well, let dry and then test.

    5 year warranty will cover a leaky MC.

    Good luck and let me know what we need to do next.

    Jude

  12. #12
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    MAGURA - NEVER MORE
    On September 2014 I received my brand new OPEN 1.1 from Opencycle (great bike). It came with Magura MT6 disc brakes.
    After less than 200 km on the new bike, one day, riding slowly, I actuated the rear brake to stop and the brake hose came off at the lever squirting fluid.
    Took it to the local bike shop to refit the hose in position and bleed it. After that the brake started to feel sluggish and spongy. I rode it for several weeks and than took it to the mechanic to bleed it again. No improvement; always spongy and the engagement point getting lower and lower. The front brake engagement point started to get also low. At this point I drove to the big city and took the bike to a Magura certified mechanic. After bleeding the rear brake with no result, he removed the master cylinders from the handle bars and noticed that they were leaking, especially the rear one and said that this could be result of overtightening the clamp nuts, which I'm 98% sure was not the case.
    Carefully examining the master cylinder under good light and with a magnifying glass, it seems to be in perfect condition. Still under good light, actuating the lever, the leakage seems to be coming out of the little weep hole behind the master cylinder, where it mounts to the bars. The mechanic said that there was no way to fix it and that the only solution was to replace the master cylinders at a huge cost. Total disappointment! He also admitted that Magura brakes are very sensitive and often have complications. His personal advice was: switch to Shimano XT or XTR and will never have problems.
    A pair of complete Shimano XT disc brakes is cheaper than the repair of the Maguras.
    Last edited by Ricardoedmundo; 06-14-2015 at 12:06 PM.

  13. #13
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    Hope you didnít pay much for all that great advice from your mechanic.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    Hope you didnít pay much for all that great advice from your mechanic.
    No. It was all free. Didn't even charge for the bleeding because it didn't solve the problem.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardoedmundo View Post
    MAGURA - NEVER MORE
    On September 2014 I received my brand new OPEN 1.1 from Opencycle (great bike). It came with Magura MT6 disc brakes.
    After less than 200 km on the new bike, one day, riding slowly, I actuated the rear brake to stop and the brake hose came off at the lever squirting fluid.
    Took it to the local bike shop to refit the hose in position and bleed it. After that the brake started to feel sluggish and spongy. I rode it for several weeks and than took it to the mechanic to bleed it again. No improvement; always spongy and the engagement point getting lower and lower. The front brake engagement point started to get also low. At this point I drove to the big city and took the bike to a Magura certified mechanic. After bleeding the rear brake with no result, he removed the master cylinders from the handle bars and noticed that they were leaking, especially the rear one and said that this could be result of overtightening the clamp nuts, which I'm 98% sure was not the case.
    Carefully examining the master cylinder under good light and with a magnifying glass, it seems to be in perfect condition. Still under good light, actuating the lever, the leakage seems to be coming out of the little weep hole behind the master cylinder, where it mounts to the bars. The mechanic said that there was no way to fix it and that the only solution was to replace the master cylinders at a huge cost. Total disappointment! He also admitted that Magura brakes are very sensitive and often have complications. His personal advice was: switch to Shimano XT or XTR and will never have problems.
    A pair of complete Shimano XT disc brakes is cheaper than the repair of the Maguras.
    Did you register only to talk bad about magura,you write the same on every magura topic.i have magura and wouldnt change them for something else.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    Did you register only to talk bad about magura,you write the same on every magura topic.i have magura and wouldnt change them for something else.
    Yes, I did post it on different threads. Not to talk bad about anything, but to report facts.
    Of course, there are thousands of happy customers for every product in the market and certainly a few hundred unhappy. That's why manufacturers give a warranty. I'm glad to know you've been lucky to be included in the first group. Unfortunately I was not.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardoedmundo View Post
    He also admitted that Magura brakes are very sensitive and often have complications. His personal advice was: switch to Shimano XT or XTR and will never have problems.
    Facts?? No...These are clearly opinions, and not even yours. These statements are about as subjectively charged as it gets.

    Sorry youíre having such a negative experience with Maguras...and I mean that. But it sounds to me like part of the problem is the people youíre relying on for help and advice. Have you tried posting on the Magura forum? It can be accessed from their website.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardoedmundo View Post
    MAGURA - NEVER MORE
    On September 2014 I received my brand new OPEN 1.1 from Opencycle (great bike). It came with Magura MT6 disc brakes.
    After less than 200 km on the new bike, one day, riding slowly, I actuated the rear brake to stop and the brake hose came off at the lever squirting fluid.
    Took it to the local bike shop to refit the hose in position and bleed it. After that the brake started to feel sluggish and spongy. I rode it for several weeks and than took it to the mechanic to bleed it again. No improvement; always spongy and the engagement point getting lower and lower. The front brake engagement point started to get also low. At this point I drove to the big city and took the bike to a Magura certified mechanic. After bleeding the rear brake with no result, he removed the master cylinders from the handle bars and noticed that they were leaking, especially the rear one and said that this could be result of overtightening the clamp nuts, which I'm 98% sure was not the case.
    Carefully examining the master cylinder under good light and with a magnifying glass, it seems to be in perfect condition. Still under good light, actuating the lever, the leakage seems to be coming out of the little weep hole behind the master cylinder, where it mounts to the bars. The mechanic said that there was no way to fix it and that the only solution was to replace the master cylinders at a huge cost. Total disappointment! He also admitted that Magura brakes are very sensitive and often have complications. His personal advice was: switch to Shimano XT or XTR and will never have problems.
    A pair of complete Shimano XT disc brakes is cheaper than the repair of the Maguras.

    Magura warranties their brakes against leakage for 5 years.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    Magura warranties their brakes against leakage for 5 years.
    In Brazil Magura says that leakages can be caused by overtightening of the nuts or by using a different brand of mineral oil. In both cases you lose the warranty.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardoedmundo View Post
    In Brazil Magura says that leakages can be caused by overtightening of the nuts or by using a different brand of mineral oil. In both cases you lose the warranty.
    Hi,

    I never owned a Magura brake, so I don't know how fidget they are, but if anyone who is supposed to be a certified mechanics of whatever brand, would tell me that the caliper was leaking because "I" over tighten the nuts and refused to warranty them, hell would brake loose ...
    Regarding the use off a different brand of brake fluid, I totally agree with warranty loss, your brakes are made to work with a brake fluid so don't complain if you decide to use something that it was not supposed to work with.

    EDIT: next quote is copied from Magura site:
    This additional warranty and all our liabilities will void, if any of the points mentioned below are not respected:

    • Improper use of the brake or damage due to a crash or abuse.
    • Mixing and matching our parts with parts from other manufacturers.
    • Refinishing (e.g. painting or polishing) of any part
    • any attempt to disassemble brake lever and/or slave cylinder/caliper
    • Components broken due to overtightening, normal wear or improper maintenance
    • Shipping damages or loss
    It clearly stipulates in the underlined point, that you lose warranty if its broken due to overtightening, so if its not broken you won't lose your warranty.
    Last edited by Aglo; 06-23-2015 at 05:20 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    Hi,

    I never owned a Magura brake, so I don't know how fidget they are, but if anyone who is supposed to be a certified mechanics of whatever brand, would tell me that the caliper was leaking because "I" over tighten the nuts and refused to warranty them, hell would brake loose ...
    Regarding the use off a different brand of brake fluid, I totally agree with warranty loss, your brakes are made to work with a brake fluid so don't complain if you decide to use something that it was not supposed to work with.

    EDIT: next quote is copied from Magura site:


    It clearly stipulates in the underlined point, that you lose warranty if its broken due to overtightening, so if its not broken you won't lose your warranty.
    Thank you for your information.
    My master cylinders are not broken in any way that one can see by examining. I have already sent my report to Magura Brazil and Magura Germany. Magura Brazil says they they will not honor the warranty. Magura Germany has not replied after 5 days.

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