Results 1 to 44 of 44

Thread: Magura MT8 fail

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927

    Magura MT8 fail

    Today was the second time in a month that my MT8's lost all stopping power on my rear brake. The first time was the first ride after mounting them We had cut the lines, but they had been fine while I was bedding them in on the hill where I live, then on the trail they slowly lost all stopping power. it was a cold (teens) day. I figured they just needed to be bled, so I managed to bleed them using a fitting from my Avid kit.

    I've been riding them 3 times a week for 2-3 weeks without any problems. Then they quit again today, temp was 7 at the start of the ride. WTF??? The front brake was fine (thank God).

    So I bled them again tonight, figured I'd be all set since I bought a Magura bleed kit., and in the process found out that the kit doesn't provide you with the o-ring necessary for the caliper fitting. Grrrrr. Had to resort to the avid fitting again. Why sell something that is unusable out of the box???

    Anyone else have a similar issue with the MT8's? I checked all the fittings for signs of leakage and they were all dry. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with the cold, but the front has been fine.

    If it happens one more time it's going back.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Update: Called Magura USA regarding the o-ring. They said no o-ring is needed, but they'll send me a few anyway. I told him snugged it up pretty good but didn't want to over-torque it, and it was sucking air when I tried to draw the fluid back.

    Regarding the failure, my LBS is thinking its the cold, said some Shimano brakes suffer from seals shrinking in extreme cold and letting fluid pass. But my front brake was fine, well maybe it was fading a bit on the downhills, I attributed that to it getting too hot having to do all the work.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,948
    My bleed kit didn't have any parts for the caliper at all. Had to buy the dealer kit before I could bleed the brakes. Haven't had problems since, though.

  4. #4
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    as much trouble as people have with bleeding, it makes me wonder when bike calipers will start to come with bleed screws like on cars.

  5. #5
    Binned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24,856
    It's definately the temp. Most all brakes are known to have issues in such extreme temps. Put the bike away and the snow/ice gear out, LOL!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,727
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    as much trouble as people have with bleeding, it makes me wonder when bike calipers will start to come with bleed screws like on cars.
    They do.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    233
    7K or 7F or 7C :-)
    if my feet get cold after 30 minutes of riding...then it is too cold. Even my xtr vbrakes don't like cold.

  8. #8
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    They do.
    Really? With a tubing fitting? Why do I see bleed instructions like "ziptie down the brake lever and leave it overnight and hopefully in the morning the bubbles will have floated out the top?" If they had the tubing fitting, you could just recycle the fluid until the bubbles were all out. I definitely haven't seen anything like that. But maybe I'm not paying enough attention.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    It's definately the temp. Most all brakes are known to have issues in such extreme temps. Put the bike away and the snow/ice gear out, LOL!
    That ain't gonna happen.

    And my front brake was fine, so I'm thinking maybe an issue with the rear brake.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,727
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Really? With a tubing fitting? Why do I see bleed instructions like "ziptie down the brake lever and leave it overnight and hopefully in the morning the bubbles will have floated out the top?" If they had the tubing fitting, you could just recycle the fluid until the bubbles were all out. I definitely haven't seen anything like that. But maybe I'm not paying enough attention.
    You talking about this little guy? Shimano, Hayes, Avid, Hope, etc... all have them
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #11
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    You talking about this little guy? Shimano, Hayes, Avid, Hope, etc... all have them
    Wow, there you have it. Thank you. So I am left wondering why people have such problems bleeding their brakes. A question for another day. Thanks again.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,948
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Wow, there you have it. Thank you. So I am left wondering why people have such problems bleeding their brakes. A question for another day. Thanks again.
    That part doesn't determine how easy it is to bleed a brake, but the subject of this thread is the MT8 and it doesn't have that thing anyway. The problem I had with my initial bleed of the MT8 was the poor quality of the Magura bleed kit. You can't do it without the right tools.

  13. #13
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by craigsj View Post
    That part doesn't determine how easy it is to bleed a brake, but the subject of this thread is the MT8 and it doesn't have that thing anyway. The problem I had with my initial bleed of the MT8 was the poor quality of the Magura bleed kit. You can't do it without the right tools.
    Yes, I apologize. I didn't mean to sound like it was your fault you are having a problem, or anything like that. It sounds like you got a bad deal and are left trying to work with something pretty sub-optimal.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Yes, I apologize. I didn't mean to sound like it was your fault you are having a problem, or anything like that. It sounds like you got a bad deal and are left trying to work with something pretty sub-optimal.
    The MT's have a port (like the Elixir's) on the caliper body. You unscrew a plug, then screw in the fitting that is attached to a tube going to a syringe. In my case, the fitting is not seating completely and is allowing air to be drawn into the tube when pulling on the syringe plunger to pull the oil back out.

    I know that some of the other systems (the type that have a reservoir on the lever body) have a port that you simply loosen the valve and attach a tube. This is not one of those.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  15. #15
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    The MT's have a port (like the Elixir's) on the caliper body. You unscrew a plug, then screw in the fitting that is attached to a tube going to a syringe. In my case, the fitting is not seating completely and is allowing air to be drawn into the tube when pulling on the syringe plunger to pull the oil back out.

    I know that some of the other systems (the type that have a reservoir on the lever body) have a port that you simply loosen the valve and attach a tube. This is not one of those.
    Instead of pulling the syringe, what if you squeeze the brake lever, and force oil into the syringe?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    494
    Discontinue Gustav. Hello MT8. Now that's progress

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Instead of pulling the syringe, what if you squeeze the brake lever, and force oil into the syringe?
    I don't think that would draw the oil from the top syringe back into the system.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goannaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    In my case, the fitting is not seating completely and is allowing air to be drawn into the tube when pulling on the syringe plunger to pull the oil back out.
    Is there any chance you aren't torquing the fitting enough?

    I had no problem with mine (mt 6's, but they have the same bleed port set up) sucking air in at the fitting when I bled (had to bleed to to screwing up shortening the line on the front brake). I agree that the quality of the bleed kit leaves a bit to be desired. I was worried it would draw air in between the tube and syringe. Avid's kit blows this out of the water (but then it costs a lot more money).

    In any event, unless there is a torquing issue, it seems that if there is a machining issue in the caliper not allowing the bleed fitting to seal, it seems that there are going to be problems with the brakes letting air in at that bleed port, no matter what.

    Hope you get them sorted out. I know I love my MT-6's, and even though they were expensive, I don't regret upgrading from the Elixir 5's.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    220
    @dirtyjack: Brake lever bottoming out with little bite resulting on the caliper end?
    -Greg
    Lynskey Ridgeline 29-SL, Truvativ Hammerschmidt, Cannondale Lefty 29er SL w/ DLR (Project321 adaptor). 26 lbs.

  20. #20
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    The MT's have a port (like the Elixir's) on the caliper body. You unscrew a plug, then screw in the fitting that is attached to a tube going to a syringe. In my case, the fitting is not seating completely and is allowing air to be drawn into the tube when pulling on the syringe plunger to pull the oil back out.
    How would you feel about putting a bit of teflon tape on that fitting?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Goannaman View Post
    Is there any chance you aren't torquing the fitting enough?

    I had no problem with mine (mt 6's, but they have the same bleed port set up) sucking air in at the fitting when I bled (had to bleed to to screwing up shortening the line on the front brake). I agree that the quality of the bleed kit leaves a bit to be desired. I was worried it would draw air in between the tube and syringe. Avid's kit blows this out of the water (but then it costs a lot more money).

    In any event, unless there is a torquing issue, it seems that if there is a machining issue in the caliper not allowing the bleed fitting to seal, it seems that there are going to be problems with the brakes letting air in at that bleed port, no matter what.

    Hope you get them sorted out. I know I love my MT-6's, and even though they were expensive, I don't regret upgrading from the Elixir 5's.
    Possibly, but I'm not going to over-torque it trying to get a seal, when a simple o-ring will solve the problem.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by grnamin View Post
    @dirtyjack: Brake lever bottoming out with little bite resulting on the caliper end?
    Yes, when they failed, it was lever to the bar and zero braking.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    How would you feel about putting a bit of teflon tape on that fitting?
    Shouldn't be necessary. The o-rings should do the trick.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Well, yeah, it SHOULD, but I thought we were trying to figure out how to keep you from smacking into something.
    I was able to bleed them using the fitting from the Avid kit, and I've been riding a couple times since and it's back to normal. Next time (and I hope it's not for a long time) I have to bleed them, I'll have the right o-ring on the Magura filling, so it should be fine.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  25. #25
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    Shouldn't be necessary. The o-rings should do the trick.
    Well, yeah, it SHOULD, but I thought we were trying to figure out how to keep you from smacking into something.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    OT a bit, but isn't it odd that I replied to your post, yet my reply appears before your post?
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  27. #27
    DIY all the way
    Reputation: Mr.Magura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,111
    I am in no affiliated with the brake company Magura, but got the nickname "Magura" like 15 years ago.

    It's the usual story of hydraulic fluid. Magura brakes have been suffering this issue from day 1.

    The only solution I have seen that works, is to get hydraulic fluid with better thermal properties, than the overpriced Magura blood.

    Citroen hydraulic fluid is quite a bit better off in that regard, and is a fraction of the price of Magura blood.
    Do take note, to not use Citroen brake fluid, as that stuff will kill your brakes real quick.


    Magura

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    220
    It seems like a pocket of air is hiding somewhere. If air is somehow getting in after a bleed, then couldn't fluid get out as well? Since no fluid is leaking, maybe there's still air in there somewhere.

    Have you tried pumping the lever a few times after it bottoms out? My front MT8 has always been solid even after cutting the line and bleeding (just in case) (nozzles in kit didn't come with o-rings, either). The rear one would bottom out until I finally bled it well enough. The lever would still come up to less than 1/2" near bottoming out until I starting pumping the lever. Now, both levers come down to 1" from the handlebars.

    Would be nice if someone out there came up with a way to actively let air out of a hydraulic brake system without letting any fluid out as well. Maybe brake lines that are one-way gas porous, but not fluid porous?
    -Greg
    Lynskey Ridgeline 29-SL, Truvativ Hammerschmidt, Cannondale Lefty 29er SL w/ DLR (Project321 adaptor). 26 lbs.

  29. #29
    gran jefe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    OT a bit, but isn't it odd that I replied to your post, yet my reply appears before your post?
    Oh, that would be me. We are having a bit of a time dislocation here.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    I am in no affiliated with the brake company Magura, but got the nickname "Magura" like 15 years ago.

    It's the usual story of hydraulic fluid. Magura brakes have been suffering this issue from day 1.

    The only solution I have seen that works, is to get hydraulic fluid with better thermal properties, than the overpriced Magura blood.

    Citroen hydraulic fluid is quite a bit better off in that regard, and is a fraction of the price of Magura blood.
    Do take note, to not use Citroen brake fluid, as that stuff will kill your brakes real quick.


    Magura
    So you're telling me that Citroen fluid is better, but don't use it.

    Oops, you said hydro, not brake. Gotcha.

    I do have Pentosin CHF 71 but I don't want to void the Magura warranty by using it. If it happens again I'll look for a warranty replacement.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by grnamin View Post
    It seems like a pocket of air is hiding somewhere. If air is somehow getting in after a bleed, then couldn't fluid get out as well? Since no fluid is leaking, maybe there's still air in there somewhere.

    Have you tried pumping the lever a few times after it bottoms out? My front MT8 has always been solid even after cutting the line and bleeding (just in case) (nozzles in kit didn't come with o-rings, either). The rear one would bottom out until I finally bled it well enough. The lever would still come up to less than 1/2" near bottoming out until I starting pumping the lever. Now, both levers come down to 1" from the handlebars.

    Would be nice if someone out there came up with a way to actively let air out of a hydraulic brake system without letting any fluid out as well. Maybe brake lines that are one-way gas porous, but not fluid porous?

    Trust me, when I'm flying downhill and the lever goes to the bar, I be pumpin' it for all it's worth.

    When bleeding, after I pull the syringe out of the level, I gently apply pressure from the other syringe to ensure that I'm displacing oil when I replace the screw.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  32. #32
    DIY all the way
    Reputation: Mr.Magura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,111
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    So you're telling me that Citroen fluid is better, but don't use it.
    I'm telling you that Citroen hydraulic fluid is better, and I'm telling you to not use dot brake fluid

    Those are two completely different types of fluid.

    In the old Magura manuals, from before they figured it was fantastic business to sell overpriced hydraulic fluid, they recommended Citroen hydraulic fluid themselves.

    Magura

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    I'm telling you that Citroen hydraulic fluid is better, and I'm telling you to not use dot brake fluid

    Those are two completely different types of fluid.

    In the old Magura manuals, from before they figured it was fantastic business to sell overpriced hydraulic fluid, they recommended Citroen hydraulic fluid themselves.

    Magura
    yes, I noticed that and edited my previous post.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  34. #34
    DIY all the way
    Reputation: Mr.Magura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,111
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    yes, I noticed that and edited my previous post.
    Ahh, ok

    The cold weather issue of Magura's and Shimano's for that kind of matter, is a well known issue around here.

    I live in Denmark, and here we have 8 months of winter, and 4 months of real bad weather, so some sort of counter measures to stiff brakes, have been needed since the first Magura hydro stopper series.


    Magura

  35. #35
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    248
    Hello Dirtyjack and sorry for all the problems you are having with your brakes!

    Earlier stated within the thread , you mentioned shortening the lines without bleeding the brakes, typically this is fine but in some cases not. I might suspect the original problem due to this.

    Next, I would suggest a proper Magura M-6 bleed fitting that attaches to the caliper instead of the avid fitting. Then, you can eliminate the connection as being potentially part of the problem. (which may be)


    Below is a good source for our bleed kit or small parts.
    Tools - Brakes - Magura

    ....and here is a short video that could help.
    Magura MT8 Brake Bleed with Jude Monica www.mountainflyer.com - YouTube

    I typically just use the second syringe (minus the plunger) inserted into the master cylinder's EBT port.
    Just press the syringe (minus the plunger) nipple into the EBT port, don't thread it. The threads are just for re-installing the EBT plug itself.

    Let me know of your progress and how I can help.

    Good luck and thanks for persisting!
    Jude

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by judemonica View Post
    Hello Dirtyjack and sorry for all the problems you are having with your brakes!

    Earlier stated within the thread , you mentioned shortening the lines without bleeding the brakes, typically this is fine but in some cases not. I might suspect the original problem due to this.

    Next, I would suggest a proper Magura M-6 bleed fitting that attaches to the caliper instead of the avid fitting. Then, you can eliminate the connection as being potentially part of the problem. (which may be)


    Below is a good source for our bleed kit or small parts.
    Tools - Brakes - Magura

    ....and here is a short video that could help.
    Magura MT8 Brake Bleed with Jude Monica www.mountainflyer.com - YouTube

    I typically just use the second syringe (minus the plunger) inserted into the master cylinder's EBT port.
    Just press the syringe (minus the plunger) nipple into the EBT port, don't thread it. The threads are just for re-installing the EBT plug itself.

    Let me know of your progress and how I can help.

    Good luck and thanks for persisting!
    Jude,

    I watched your video a couple of times before attempting to bleed the brakes. As I said in my original post, I have a Magura kit, but couldn't get the fitting to seal, thus I resorted to the Avid fitting, which did seal. (I have since received some o-rings from Magura).

    I am curious that this has happened twice, once when it was around 18 degrees F, the other time it was 7 degrees. Can the cold temperature cause the brakes to lose stopping power?

    dj
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  37. #37
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    248
    Hi Dirtyjack

    Possibly the cold can affect the seals particularly at the MC where compliance is important for pressurization.
    I still suspect air trapped in the system even though you have tried bleeding them several times.

    I would offer to recieve the set and take a look if you would prefer and find a solution. You could have a set with wide tolerances (I'm reaching here) and therefore allowing the slave at the MC not to pressurize or even possibly ingest air on the take up stroke.

    That being said, we have ultra endurance athletes riding events such as the Alaska Extreme race series and have yet to have a cold weather specific issue. For example: Lou's Ultra-Endurance Adventures

    You make the call but I would be glad to have a go at your brakes for starters.

    Sorry for all the hassles but we can figure it out and take care of you while its winter.
    .... and goodonya for riding all year no matter the weather.
    Jude

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    566
    Do the MT8's use mineral oil? I read on this forum that the shimano brakes had issues in the cold because of the mineral oil. My brakes use DOT 4, and seem fine in the cold. Really haven't used them that much in the cold because my riding has been done on dirt roads. Not much braking required.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by judemonica View Post
    Hi Dirtyjack

    Possibly the cold can affect the seals particularly at the MC where compliance is important for pressurization.
    I still suspect air trapped in the system even though you have tried bleeding them several times.

    I would offer to recieve the set and take a look if you would prefer and find a solution. You could have a set with wide tolerances (I'm reaching here) and therefore allowing the slave at the MC not to pressurize or even possibly ingest air on the take up stroke.

    That being said, we have ultra endurance athletes riding events such as the Alaska Extreme race series and have yet to have a cold weather specific issue. For example: Lou's Ultra-Endurance Adventures

    You make the call but I would be glad to have a go at your brakes for starters.

    Sorry for all the hassles but we can figure it out and take care of you while its winter.
    .... and goodonya for riding all year no matter the weather.

    Jude, Thanks for your offer, but I don't want to be without my main ride. If it happens again I'll contact Magura for a warranty replacement.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    387
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    The cold weather issue of Magura's and Shimano's for that kind of matter, is a well known issue around here.

    I live in Denmark, and here we have 8 months of winter, and 4 months of real bad weather, so some sort of counter measures to stiff brakes, have been needed since the first Magura hydro stopper series.


    Magura
    I haven't had any problems with my 2004&2006 Louises in cold weather due the mineral oil and I live in bit colder place northeast from tropical Denmark.

    The 2004 needed seal swap though but have been faultless ever since and I have had the 2006 Louises on the other bike without any problems all the time. I store my bikes in unheated shed meaning that the temperature can be anything from +30 to -30C but hardly ever ride in colder than -10C due laziness and cold feet...
    I know that some models have had loads of problems in the cold, at least early Martas and some mid-series Julies weren't too reliable on winter but this is second-hand knowledge.

  41. #41
    DIY all the way
    Reputation: Mr.Magura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,111
    Quote Originally Posted by markom View Post
    I haven't had any problems with my 2004&2006 Louises in cold weather due the mineral oil and I live in bit colder place northeast from tropical Denmark.

    The 2004 needed seal swap though but have been faultless ever since and I have the 2006 Louises on the other bike without any problems all the time. I store my bikes in unheated shed meaning that the temperature can be anything from +30 to -30C but hardly ever ride in colder than -10C due laziness and cold feet...
    I know that some models have had loads of problems in the cold, at least early Martas and some mid-series Julies weren't too reliable on winter but this is second-hand knowledge.
    Ok, to be honest I was reporting from experience gained a while back, so you just might be right.
    My experience is based on riding in -15, where at least the older rim brake models did stiffen up. They still worked though, but were leaking and required quite a bit more actuation power.

    I have no experience with the newer Magura disc brakes, as they so far have a reputation for not dealing well with road salt. I don't know if that reputation is still well deserved, the last evidence I saw, was a 2005 Louise. It sure had given up the ghost.

    Magura

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    Ok, to be honest I was reporting from experience gained a while back, so you just might be right.
    My experience is based on riding in -15, where at least the older rim brake models did stiffen up. They still worked though, but were leaking and required quite a bit more actuation power.

    I have no experience with the newer Magura disc brakes, as they so far have a reputation for not dealing well with road salt. I don't know if that reputation is still well deserved, the last evidence I saw, was a 2005 Louise. It sure had given up the ghost.

    Magura
    My Tallboy will never see a lick of salt, haha!
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

  43. #43
    DIY all the way
    Reputation: Mr.Magura's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,111
    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    My Tallboy will never see a lick of salt, haha!
    Here that would be nothing but wishful thinking, as the roads salt is a problem from October till April


    Gotta move south I guess



    Magura

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dirtyjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    927
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    Here that would be nothing but wishful thinking, as the roads salt is a problem from October till April


    Gotta move south I guess



    Magura
    No, we have plenty of snow, I just don't ride it on roads.
    SantaCruz Tallboy C
    SantaCruz Solo C
    Specialized Fatboy
    Trek Madone 8
    Kestrel RT 700
    Lemond Zurich

Similar Threads

  1. Magura Brakes Scraping
    By peteuga in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 06-25-2013, 11:33 AM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •