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  1. #1
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    Magura MT trail sport?

    Anybody have any time on these?

    The price is right & the new lever design looks really good. I'm looking for something as consistent as my guides but MORE power.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  2. #2
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    I got one of the first sets and am very pleased. Compared to the MT Trail Carbons, yes they weigh more, but the feel is pretty much identical. They come with cheaper pads up front, which I was concerned about, but in the end they feel just as good.

    Overall, compared the Guides they replaced they are: better at modulation (miles ahead), more powerful, and easier to bleed.

    I think they turned me into a fanboy....

  3. #3
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    On my gf's bike we have a set of MT5's and mt4's (essentially the trails without the new levers). She now has way more stopping power than me and she weights like 60 lbs less than me, she has not had any problems with modulating the braking power she now has.

    about a month ago we were a a demo day for a few bike companies and she kept complaining about the shimano brakes being too on/off and the sram brakes she felt didn't have the same stopping power her magura's have.

    safe to say I was sold pretty fast on getting magura brakes for my next bike

    as for bleeding it is super simple and way easier than my current avids.

  4. #4
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    Mine should be coming in Saturday. Not in time for Saturday's ride.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Mine should be coming in Saturday. Not in time for Saturday's ride.
    Keep me posted. What brakes you on now?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  6. #6
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    I have XTR race levers (no Servo Wave) on my XC bike and the brakes the MTTS will be replacing are the Juin Tech DB-1 on the trail bike. The JT brakes never gave me any issues...it's just that the 30% off at Nashbar and 10% back from AJ made the brakes too hard to pass up. I've been curious about the Magura brakes so this is a good chance to get them at an excellent price. I really like the feel of the non Servo Wave levers. My GF has the XT and ZEE on her bikes...every time I ride her bikes I have to readjust to the feel of the SW levers. I also grabbed the Shiftmix clamp to integrate the X01 lever onto.

  7. #7
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    So I installed the brakes. Shortened the lines as per their instructions. Some fluid did come out of the MC, but they seem to work just fine on my ride. I only rode for about 1.5 hours and the trail didn't really have any long fast descents...but first impressions are pretty good. The HC lever is pretty comfortable...at least no worse than the XTR levers on my other bike. The modulation feels good near the limit.

    I do have a question about the front brake pads. With everything installed and torqued down...grabbing the brake and rocking the bike back and forth...I can feel play in the front end. I double and triple checked all the bolts on the caliper, adapter, rotor bolts, and even the headset. Everything is tight...but there is still play on the front. Then I noticed that the front pads have no pin holding them in. Apparently that's how they are designed. Anyone else have the same experience with these type of pads? I rode em...they brakes fine.

  8. #8
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    Aren't they magnetic? I've never had a brake that didn't have some rock to it. How's the power compared to your shimano's?
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

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    It's just the pads shifting slightly. It only happens if you apply light pressure to the brakes, then roll forward and backward. Otherwise, they stay in the same place when you're only using them going forward.

  10. #10
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    There's a little play in mine as well in the stand, but on the trail i've never noticed it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    Aren't they magnetic? I've never had a brake that didn't have some rock to it. How's the power compared to your shimano's?
    They are magnetic. I've never come across a brake that had magnets hold the pads on. I could swear that my Shimano brakes didn't have that much play...but if you guys say its normal...then I'll take your word for it.

    The place I went to didn't really have any sections where I was able to really seriously test out the brakes. I mean there were parts where I did grab them hard...but not to the extent to where they really got a chance to heat up. The way I like to go about testing out stuff I've never used before is to just ride and not think about it. If my ride was a good one...then I figure the part works pretty well...if that makes any sense.

    Initial impressions of the brakes are good though. I think they are lighter than the XT's and lighter than the ZEE for sure. If you are looking into a Shimano or SRAM alternative...I think these brakes are worth a good hard look.

  12. #12
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    if you want a pin I think you should be able to purchase replacement pins (for mt7's) and 4 separate pads (also from the mt7's). that is if you find this an issue after a few rides.

    with the limited riding I have had on the MT5's and mt4's I have not noticed any issue with the pads moving. but I do have to say I love these brakes.

  13. #13
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    Somewhat relevant opinion about Magura brakes in general:
    I have a (new to me) set of MT6 Next's that I finally got dialed in. I got them by way of a family/friend as take-offs with only a little use. I started a thread here with some initial setup woes, and wasn't sure if I liked them, or even if they maybe were broken/defective.
    After learning the bleed process, and (apparently needed) some new pads, I'm actually really impressed with Magura brakes after a few rides.

    My MT6's differ from the Trails in that mine only have a 2-piston caliper not 4 like the front end on the Trails, and the levers are a little different shape. I personally don't have any issue with the "old" lever shape but the new is definitely a nice shape.
    I'm 160lbs, and only ride 'trail' and 'XC', but with a 180mm rotor up front, I don't feel like they lack any power. I suspect a 4-pot caliper at the front wheel will be more than enough for most anything short of lift-service stuff. The back 160mm is totally fine and I can lock the rear wheel at will with a single finger.


    I came off Shimano m-615's and adjusted to the substantially increased modulation very quickly. I dig it.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  14. #14
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    Anyone have any experience running these with other brand rotors, specifically Hope? Wanting to use Hope floating rotors on my next build (want some bling), and I love the Hope E4 brakes a buddy has. However, the price of these Trail Sports (and having heard nothing but great things about them) have me intrigued...
    Patrick

  15. #15
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    Hopes are too thin. They start out at 1.8, which is the thickness that Storms are considered 'done'.

    I've tried my MT6s with my old Avid HS1 rotors, measured with digital metric calipers at 1.77 (so almost new) and the rear brake did not feel right. So I put the Storm rotor on (measures at 1.86) and it still felt off at the lever- too much throw, not firm bite. I found an old ProMax junk rotor in my parts bin and it measured 1.95. Magically all my braking woes went away.

    I'm sure someone will post a pic of their Magura brakes with non-Magura rotors and say I'm full of crap. I'm just posting my experience.
    My Magura brakes worked better when the rotor was near 2.0 like they suggested.
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  16. #16
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    I'm running the MTTS's with some Ashima floating rotors. They measure about 1.9 new. The lever's at the moment have a nice firm feel. Shimano rotors are done at 1.5. That means I'd be wasting a lot of rotor if I was to toss the Shimano ones at 1.8mm.

    Kinda sounds like Magura just wants you to run only their rotors. Like how SRAM says that only their chains will work with their 1x systems.

  17. #17
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    MT Trail Sport Weights

    Since none of the reviews I can find mention weight, I thought I'd get the numbers for science. I just got my set in today and threw them on the scale with uncut lines. Front is 245g, rear is 235g. Looking up the Bikerumor review of the Trail Carbons, their front came in at 252g, with the rear at 222g for a total of 274g - only 6g lighter. I think their front brake did have a longer hose, but still, that's a pretty small difference.

    Magura MT trail sport?-c00nz86.jpg

    Magura MT trail sport?-0ctffno.jpg

  18. #18
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    I was surprised at the weight when I put them on the scale. Lighter than the XT.

    I've got some real miles on them and I'm extremely happy with the performance.

    With the Shiftmix clamp...you get a clean install. I'm planning to get the 1x lever for my Reverb and a Shiftmix clamp.

    Magura MT trail sport?-magura-lever.jpg

  19. #19
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    I've been on mine now for several months. Was on SRAM Guide RSCs before that. I'm really liking the Maguras! But I actually preferred the feel of the brakes with Centerline rotors, not the Storms - too much shuddering.

    I have a new set of Shift Mix clamps if anyone is interested.

  20. #20
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    Most Magura 2-pot brakes are 100g-150g lighter than XT. Pretty much everything from Shimano save M9000 Race (400g) is about 580g. Magura's MT8 is around 400g. MT6, MT4, and MTS, more like 475g. Even MT2 isn't much above 500g.

  21. #21
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    Those weights sound about right. Looking back at my spreadsheet, my MT6s weigh 208F and 221R. No rotors or 180mm adapter.
    I measured the adapter at 18g and a 180 mm rotor at 113, the rear 160 was 88g.
    Total weight, all in was exactly 650g


    My old Deore M615s were 738g with dual 160mm Avid HS-1 rotors
    Donít modify the trail to match your skills, modify your skills to match the trails.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    With the Shiftmix clamp...you get a clean install.
    Unfortunately, Magura doesn't seem to import the i-spec shiftmix clamps to the US. Between needing to swap out the top cover of the shifter and shipping the clamp from Europe, it's almost $100 extra to get a clean setup with my Shimano shifter.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by coleam View Post
    Unfortunately, Magura doesn't seem to import the i-spec shiftmix clamps to the US. Between needing to swap out the top cover of the shifter and shipping the clamp from Europe, it's almost $100 extra to get a clean setup with my Shimano shifter.
    Magura USA | Lever and Lever Parts HANDLE BAR CLAMP SHIFTMIX 1+2 SHIMANO I-SPEC L+LL RIGH BLACK

    But probably ends up being at least the same price you mentioned above.

  24. #24
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    I have an extra set of Magura/ Shimano i-Spec II clamps (both right and left).

    PM me if you'd need it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Magura USA | Lever and Lever Parts HANDLE BAR CLAMP SHIFTMIX 1+2 SHIMANO I-SPEC L+LL RIGH BLACK

    But probably ends up being at least the same price you mentioned above.
    I bought a set at JensonUSA just last month.

  26. #26
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    One ride on mine and really like them. At 228lbs haven't wanted for more yet.

  27. #27
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    I rode the carbon version of these on a bike I raced on a few weeks ago. Biggest warning is that the pads take a bit to burn in. Make sure you do a GOOD set in session on the rode before you hit the trail. Secondly, these might be the best brakes I have ever ridden as far as checking all the boxes for modulation, power, weight. They hit a home run, sadly sram will keep putting out crap and people will buy the marketing, shimanos will continue to be on/off feel and Magura will not have the marketing funds to match either. Very sad when a cmpany has something this good on hand and very few buy it.

  28. #28
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    I'm thinking about getting these to replace my old Avid Elixir CR brakes on my Banshee Spitfire, which actually still work fine but I just want something new. I currently run 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors. What size F/R rotors are you guys using with the MT Trail Sports?

  29. #29
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    I'm running 180/180. #145 before gear.

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    I have the mt trail since a few rides and I am so far not as impressed others here... so maybe there is something wrong with mine?
    Running in the brakes took ages so much so that I rode down a ski slope and grabbed the brakes until they were literally smoking! After that and some time for cooling they started to bite better but the day after they were not biting any more...
    Can my pads be contaminated? Or the caliper leaking? The set was brand new when installed.

  31. #31
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    Sounds like you have a contamination problem or a bleed issue. They should have enough power to toss you over the bars at will on a full grab.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

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    Thanks Redneck! I guess that I am good for a pad swap...

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    on my MT5's (same 2 pistons as the MT trails) I had a similar issue with not having much bite. I re-bleed the brakes and now they bite a lot better so I would try to do a bleed as well as new pads.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2zmtnz View Post
    on my MT5's (same 2 pistons as the MT trails) I had a similar issue with not having much bite. I re-bleed the brakes and now they bite a lot better so I would try to do a bleed as well as new pads.
    Yeah, mine have been a bit tricky to bleed. When I bled them after cutting the lines, they felt great in the parking lot and through the initial bedding in, but a couple miles down the trail, they were spongy and the rear lever was pulling to the bar. After bleed #2 and a bunch of trail miles (including an enduro race), the front feels great. Rear works, but is still a little squishier than I'd like. I'll probably bleed it again some time this week.

  35. #35
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    Thanks guy!
    A bleeding kit and new pads are on the way
    Both levers felt spongy after pushing the pads back so that a bleed might help

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyMTB.fr View Post
    I have the mt trail since a few rides and I am so far not as impressed others here... so maybe there is something wrong with mine?
    Running in the brakes took ages so much so that I rode down a ski slope and grabbed the brakes until they were literally smoking! After that and some time for cooling they started to bite better but the day after they were not biting any more...
    Can my pads be contaminated? Or the caliper leaking? The set was brand new when installed.
    New pads and a proper bleed seem to have solve my issues.
    Bleeding is a bit tricky as you need to get as much oil as possible in order to get a decent stroke.

  37. #37
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    Nice! Glad it worked out! They are great brakes IMO

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

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    Watched the seemingly simple youtube video from magura on the proper bleed procedure and I still completely screwed it up.

    Downside to not going the SRAM/Shimano route is no one local has the bleed kit.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    Watched the seemingly simple youtube video from magura on the proper bleed procedure and I still completely screwed it up.

    Downside to not going the SRAM/Shimano route is no one local has the bleed kit.
    Try to push some more oil into the brake before removing the syringe from the caliper, it helped me getting a shorter stroke. It seems to help to place the caliper much higher than the lever when removing the syringe in order to let as little fluid as possible out.

  40. #40
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    I finally bought a set of these back in mid October, then broke my heel the day before they came in, so now I won't get to test them until next year . But I'm looking forward to it!

  41. #41
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    Just put these on my bike a couple of days ago. Got them bedded in with Storm HC rotors, but haven't gotten a ride in yet.
    Different feel at the lever from my Guide RS brakes. Even less takeup, and maybe a more linear feel throughout the lever pull. It's not a huge difference, but I don't doubt these things will modulate as well or better than the Guides did(and I love the Guides' performance, just have had too much trouble with them).
    I like the 1 finger levers, and how easy the reach is to adjust, too.
    Performing a successful "bubble bleed" after trimming the hose on the rear was simple and easy, and the front didn't even need that.
    The brakes themselves are also pretty light. Didn't write down the weight of the MT5 front, but my rear MT4 came in at 225g after shortening the hose. Rear Guide RS with the same length hose was 248g with aluminum backed pads that are ~11g lighter than the steel ones. There'll be a smaller difference with the MT5, so maybe ~60g lighter for the set with steel backed pads all around.

    I have a pair of Storm SL.2 rotors coming from Germany, along with some more extra parts and stuff. They list at 100g for a 160mm(Storm HC 160mm came in at 127g), and look like a cross between the Storm SL and HC. Didn't see them from any US dealers, so guess they haven't crossed the pond, yet. I'm gonna try them front and back, but can always leave a HC up front if the SL.2 leaves anything to be desired.
    Here's a pic of the SL.2:
    Magura MT trail sport?-24550331_10214296620472461_1319726868_n.jpg


    Only complaint so far is that retarded "EBT" screw. One of mine had a strip(thread?) wind off of it while it was being screwed in, and now the screw won't come out-which Google says is not an uncommon issue.
    It's ridiculous. You have to put far more pressure on the metal adaptor required for bleeding to get it in far enough that it won't leak, so there's no legitimate reason for making the bleed screw itself out of plastic. Now I'll have to turn the brake over and bleed it from the other side unless I buy spare EBT screws. At least they're reversible, and have them on both sides.
    Figures, though. Whole point of getting these things was the hope that they wouldn't be a headache like the Guides have been, so we're not off to a great start in that sense.

    Hopefully get to try them out on the trail before heading out for a week of hiking Tuesday or Wednesday.


    btw, I paid $221.41 for the set, buying from 365 Cycles in case of warranty issues, but bike-discount.de has them for 134.41 Euros/$159.52.
    That's pretty dang cheap for what seem to be a fine set of brakes...

  42. #42
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    I love mine. I found the bubble bleed works best on these.

  43. #43
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    I have a new set of MT5ís showing up on Thursday. Canít wait to try them. Magura USA had 30% off for Black Friday which was great.

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    I'm seriously considering the Trail Sports as a replacement for my XT M785s... basically looking for something with more modulation and the same power. Other contenders are Guide RSCs or Hope T3 E4s. The Trail Sports are appealing for great reviews on both power and modulation, are very light weight, and incredibly cheap, but lack contact point adjustment. Although, my XTs essentially don't have that either so I don't know if I'll miss it. The Hopes look great and have good reviews but lots of complaints about getting them adjusted right. Whereas the NSMB reviewer posted a video of his 3 year old bleeding the Maguras... yeah, that sounds better.

    What other brands' rotors can I use with them, or am I pretty much stuck with the Storm rotors? I've currently got 180mm Shimano IceTechs.

    What's the difference between the 3 different brake pads? I normally use metallic only, so being stuck with resin is a bit disappointing. I'm looking for performance and quietness, not overly concerned about spending $60 every half year to replace.

  45. #45
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    Magura rotors are thinner than Shimano. You can try with the IceTechs, but you may have issues with rubbing. I've only ever used the stock pads, but I'm pretty happy with the performance, though I will say that getting the one-piece front pads out is a bit of a pain - it might be worth upgrading the front pads at least just to get the 4 individual pads. They're as quiet or quieter than all of the other brakes I've had. They howl a bit when wet or cold, but that goes away pretty quick once they dry off or warm up.

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    Shimano rotors are not thicker than Magura. Itís the opposite actually. Magura rotors are 2mm thick when new, with a 1.8mm minimum requirement for the brakes. Shimano rotors start at 1.8, and their brakes are designed for 1.5-1.8 thickness.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaredpbt View Post
    Shimano rotors are not thicker than Magura. Itís the opposite actually. Magura rotors are 2mm thick when new, with a 1.8mm minimum requirement for the brakes. Shimano rotors start at 1.8, and their brakes are designed for 1.5-1.8 thickness.
    Yep, that's correct. Got it backwards.

  48. #48
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    Just verifying the weights in case it's of interest to anyone. I did weigh this brakeset out of the box(and the rear after shortening the hose). Found these on my phone...
    Uncut front:
    Magura MT trail sport?-20171122_132630.jpg

    Uncut rear:
    Magura MT trail sport?-20171122_132708.jpg

    Rear after trimming to length:
    Magura MT trail sport?-20171130_160822.jpg

  49. #49
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    Well, all the positive reviews and a $225 Jenson gift card burning a hole in my pocket got me to pull the trigger on these. I'll probably install them this weekend, and post my impressions of install / bleeding (having never installed brakes before) later.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Well, all the positive reviews and a $225 Jenson gift card burning a hole in my pocket got me to pull the trigger on these. I'll probably install them this weekend, and post my impressions of install / bleeding (having never installed brakes before) later.
    How are they?

    Same q to everyone else as well.

    Not sure I'm in the market for brakes. This year alone I went from Guide R's (bad modulation, leaky seal) to RSC's (sticky lever) to XTs. The XTs are really starting to annoy me with the crappy lever throw and pumping up after a few pulls. I've bled them perfectly and they just have a really variable bite point.

    So I've started to poke around. The prices on that .de website for Maguras are great.

    Overall how is the quality of the brakes, bleedability and performance consistency?

    I know this is the Trail Sport thread but does anyone have any comments on the other models?

    Thx

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyMTB.fr View Post
    Try to push some more oil into the brake before removing the syringe from the caliper, it helped me getting a shorter stroke. It seems to help to place the caliper much higher than the lever when removing the syringe in order to let as little fluid as possible out.
    Be careful if you crash alot. I must have destroyed the 0-ring or seal in my master cylinder twice. It wasn't leaking but would suck in air.

  52. #52
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    I have the MT5's. Started using the MT7 pads and they do wear better. I have no complaints besides the really long brake lever. Replace the fluid twice a year and clean them well to avoid sticky pistons.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffsterb View Post
    How are they?

    Same q to everyone else as well.

    Overall how is the quality of the brakes, bleedability and performance consistency?

    I know this is the Trail Sport thread but does anyone have any comments on the other models?

    Thx
    Based on my personal experience, I would say that Magura brakes are great Ö except maybe for the OEM MT-S they produced, a few years ago, for Specialized. Since then, I used the MT8 (180/160) with enormous success Ö and for the last two years, the MT-trail.

    Renowned for the excellent modulation, they also provide more power than needed (I can easily lock the wheel on command), at least for the conditions I ride in (North-East), and my weight (175#).

    Since the Magura runs on mineral oil, itís a good idea to use organic pads (as opposed to metallic or semi metallic, depending on local trails). Unfortunately, organic pads tend to scream in wet conditions.

    Bleeding is real easy (following Maguraís procedures). Tis said, I did have a not so good experience ounce with the 4-pistons caliper, where air bubbles seemed got trapped somewhere, but that was the only issue in nearly 10 years.

    Iím not sure if itís of Magura recommendations to flush the line and replace oil twice a year (since itís a closed circuit hydro-line), and again, each his own experience, but I donít understand why crashing would damage o-rings. Crashing can damage the levers, but they are not rigidly connected to the master cylinder (more like a push-rod type mechanism).

    Finally, the guys at Magura (USA) offer brilliant service Ö which also needs to be consider.

  54. #54
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    I overfill my brakes so i have maybe a cm of travel. Caught my brake lever while trying to be the new strava KOM. Bled it twice and replaced the mc. Took the mc apart and thepiston bore looks fine. No cracks but it still sucks in air. Something else i noticed was the fluid was no longer clear after 6 months of use. Must be either heat or moisture that causes the mag blood to be cloudy.

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    Piston
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Magura MT trail sport?-20171008_104617.jpg  


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    Yep ... I'm also guilty of over filing in order to compensate for pad wear.

    Also, I never noticed any degradation of the fluid. This said (and not sure if it's related or not to your problem), depending of your terrain, sticking to organic pads may be a good idea to have a better heat barrier between the pads and pistons ... thus helping to prevent the oil from boiling. In that sense, having KOM aspirations, is an excellent reason not to use the brakes ... ;-)

    Otherwise, I would give Magura-service a call ...

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffsterb View Post
    How are they?

    Same q to everyone else as well.

    Not sure I'm in the market for brakes. This year alone I went from Guide R's (bad modulation, leaky seal) to RSC's (sticky lever) to XTs. The XTs are really starting to annoy me with the crappy lever throw and pumping up after a few pulls. I've bled them perfectly and they just have a really variable bite point.

    So I've started to poke around. The prices on that .de website for Maguras are great.

    Overall how is the quality of the brakes, bleedability and performance consistency?

    I know this is the Trail Sport thread but does anyone have any comments on the other models?

    Thx
    I did my first ride yesterday, and they felt great to me. Basically, brakes are working how they should be: rear is for control, front is for stopping, with a very linear ramp up of power on both. Bite point did not feel like it varied at all on a 7 minute / 2.2 mile descent. Levers felt great on my trigger fingers, with a nice hook and solid feel.

    Bleeding was incredibly easy following the procedure on NSMB. I've never bleed a brake before and using the quick bleed procedure probably only took 15 mins, including drilling the syringe.

    I did notice an occasional squeak from my front brake, but I suspect it's due to me managing to drop the front rotor, edge down, on my concrete garage floor during installation. It didn't appear damaged, but I'm sure I managed to put a slight ding in the edge somewhere that is causing a bit of rub.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by griffsterb View Post
    How are they?

    Overall how is the quality of the brakes, bleedability and performance consistency?

    Thx
    I have a 4+ year old pair of MT8s that still work great. They run silent, have good power, and excellent modulation. At about 3.5 yrs in I noticed a loss of power and small fluid leak. All it took was one email to Magura support and they upgraded my levers and master cylinder to MT8 next. They are easy to bleed, but sometimes it takes me 2 tries to get it right.

  59. #59
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    FYI, the new Storm SL.2 160mm:
    Magura MT trail sport?-20171222_132618_000.jpg

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    any idea why my rear is cooking?

    contamination? Hope not, as the rotor and pads are new.

    same trails with my guide brakes never caused any issues.

    could smell it and noticed some discoloration Ė photo attached below.

    yesterday's ride had some bumpy and steep chutes, today's ride was more twisty, but not sketchy by any means.

    Magura MT trail sport?-cooked.jpg

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    any idea why my rear is cooking?

    contamination? Hope not, as the rotor and pads are new.

    same trails with my guide brakes never caused any issues.

    could smell it and noticed some discoloration Ė photo attached below.

    yesterday's ride had some bumpy and steep chutes, today's ride was more twisty, but not sketchy by any means.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did you bed them in well

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    define well

    I did a half-ass bed-in on my first ride, was impatient.

    The second ride I had some howling, so I cleaned/sanded pads and rotors,

    Did neighborhood (ie flat ground) sprints to firm stops, then before the third ride I repeated the firm stops repeats on the hill.

    I have replacement pads and a rotor for the rear, so if it continues, I'll switch it out. But just don't want to as these are new.

  63. #63
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    My rotors always blue up.
    You switch rotor sizes in the rear?
    Guessing a dual piston caliper is less of a heat sink and reduced pad size will create more heat than a 4 piston caliper and larger pads all else being equal.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    define well

    I did a half-ass bed-in on my first ride, was impatient.

    The second ride I had some howling, so I cleaned/sanded pads and rotors,

    Did neighborhood (ie flat ground) sprints to firm stops, then before the third ride I repeated the firm stops repeats on the hill.

    I have replacement pads and a rotor for the rear, so if it continues, I'll switch it out. But just don't want to as these are new.
    If you have enough power, does it matter?? Do you use the rear brake more than the front?

  65. #65
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    Definitely use the rear more. I'm not the most graceful of riders, it needs to be added.

    I did have rear brake fade and smelled smoke on a previous ride. But that was a fairly steep chute with a lot of chunk. My SRAM guide brakes never faded on that trail though.

    I'll keep riding them and report back. Have a couple of rides coming up in the next 3 days at the same spots.

    Not worried about the discoloration aesthetically, just wanted to make sure there wasn't a failure or bigger issue.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    Definitely use the rear more. I'm not the most graceful of riders, it needs to be added.

    I did have rear brake fade and smelled smoke on a previous ride. But that was a fairly steep chute with a lot of chunk. My SRAM guide brakes never faded on that trail though.

    I'll keep riding them and report back. Have a couple of rides coming up in the next 3 days at the same spots.

    Not worried about the discoloration aesthetically, just wanted to make sure there wasn't a failure or bigger issue.
    My understanding of brakes fade is that there is too much heat at the pad-rotor interface. The options I see are
    1. use a bigger rotor...but you're already on a 180mm.
    2. use a different pad...it could be that you need a different compound, Magura has 3
    3. change your braking style (and your ride technique - have you read the book by McCornack & Lopes - it was a revelation for me re: body position, lots of weight thru pedal vs bars, and dropping heels to push weight thru the BB..which allows more use of the front brake)
    4. Maybe you need another quad piston brake on the rear (as your old Guide's were) e.g. an MT5 (like is on the front now)?? The MT4 may not be powerful enough


    Out of interest, what you you weigh? This has a huge impact on brake requirements.

    What size rotor are you running up front? If you're running a 180 up front then this points to the rear brake not being powerful enough for your weight/braking style.

    What size rotors were you running with the Guides?

    You might do well to post this as a separate topic on the brake board?

  67. #67
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    Just my very limited experience, but for whatever reason, these pads/rotors are taking longer to bed in than I remember my other brakes taking. Thought I did as much for them as for either of my SRAM brakesets before riding them, but they seem to need more.
    If you're discoloring rotors, it seems like they'd have gotten pretty well broken in in the process, though!

    Been stove up, so mine just got their first hour in on the trail day before yesterday.
    Both the lever feel and modulation are fantastic, and I'm very pleased with those.
    The power level isn't quite there, though. My ride was not long, and didn't feature a whole lot of heavy braking with the front, just short bursts coming into corners hard here and there. The brakes did get a little stronger over the course of the ride, particularly the rear, which saw more use for control braking. Based on that, my assumption is that I'm not getting the full experience just yet. Right now, the front does not grab with nearly the same authority as my Guide RS when I hit it hard, but if it improves as much as the rear did with a little more use, I think it will be in the Guide ballpark, and more than enough for my use.

    I'm also using the Storm HC rotors, since I'd already started bedding them in, rather than installing the SL.2 rotors like I pictured earlier.

  68. #68
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    I purchased some MT Trail Carbons a couple of months back, and they are amazing brakes. Really a step up from my old.
    I do have a brand new spare 2 piston caliper, brand new spare 4 piston caliper, brand new brake line, and brand new lever assembly if anyone just needs spare part to purchase or something.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

  69. #69
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    I've had a few more rides on my Trail Sports. Overall, I'm still really pleased. The little squeak was gone on the second ride - probably related to the pads bedding in. I did notice that there's a little bit of noise as the rear starts to engage, more of a grinding noise than a squeak, so I'm guessing that's also related to the pads bedding in. I've only ever used metallic pads before, so I don't know if that's just a characteristic of organic pads.

    That said, either I'm a gorilla with a crescent wrench or the hose barb/olive fittings are really flimsy. I've managed to butcher them twice for my right brake by apparently overtightening the nut, which smashes the olive past the barb end, and causes fluid to gradually escape. I've ordered more from Universal, but that's kind of frustrating. Somehow I didn't manage to do that for the left brake after shortening the hose there twice, so I'm not sure what's going on. On the plus side, I'm getting REALLY good at the Pinkbike quick bleed technique while trying to resolve this.

  70. #70
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    You don't need a lot of force to get the hose to sit snug in the lever.

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    I got a new Frame and want to transfer my mt5s over but hose length is too short. Was thinking of making a set of color matched lines but am having a hard time finding a banjo. Is there a Magura service kit that contains them? of is bay my only option? Any help is appreciated.
    Last edited by BigPlans; 01-09-2018 at 08:27 AM.

  72. #72
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    Jagwire makes a kit for the banjo nut that is re-usable for Magura brakes.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigPlans View Post
    I got a new Frame and want to transfer my mt5s over but hose length is too short. Was thinking of making a set of color matched lines but am having a hard time finding a banjo. Is there a Magura service kit that contains them? of is bay my only option? Any help is appreciated.
    https://r2-bike.com/MAGURA-Bleed-Kit...-Magura-Brakes

  74. #74
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    Please delete.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by coleam View Post
    Unfortunately, Magura doesn't seem to import the i-spec shiftmix clamps to the US. Between needing to swap out the top cover of the shifter and shipping the clamp from Europe, it's almost $100 extra to get a clean setup with my Shimano shifter.
    You can find the top cover (if you're on XTRs) at Jenson.

  76. #76
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    Posted this elsewhere, but guess this is an appropriate place.
    Wolftooth now has a ReMote adapter available for Magura clamps.
    Doesn't have the Matchmaker's vertical adjustment, but the ReMote has some horizontal adjustment built in, and the adapter was a great addition that let me ditch the separate SRAM clamp+Matchmaker that I was still using.
    Magura MT trail sport?-1178467d1516151369-post-pic-your-latest-purchase-%5Bbike-related-only%5D-20180116_181553-1.jpg

    Magura MT trail sport?-1178468d1516151369-post-pic-your-latest-purchase-%5Bbike-related-only%5D-20180116_181105-1.jpg

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by OwenM View Post
    Posted this elsewhere, but guess this is an appropriate place.
    Wolftooth now has a ReMote adapter available for Magura clamps.
    Doesn't have the Matchmaker's vertical adjustment, but the ReMote has some horizontal adjustment built in, and the adapter was a great addition that let me ditch the separate SRAM clamp+Matchmaker that I was still using.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Great, thanks, will look into it!

  78. #78
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    I'll be giving these a go to replace a pair of XT M785 that have been pretty flawless for 4 years minus the on/off feel which as I've become a better rider is more annoying.

    Tempted to go with Guides since they are are more easily serviced by shops should something shit the bed, but I like the idea and price of these breaks.

    For those who bought these, have you all had to trim the lines to fit a medium frame?

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    I'll be giving these a go to replace a pair of XT M785 that have been pretty flawless for 4 years minus the on/off feel which as I've become a better rider is more annoying.

    Tempted to go with Guides since they are are more easily serviced by shops should something shit the bed, but I like the idea and price of these breaks.

    For those who bought these, have you all had to trim the lines to fit a medium frame?
    Definitely have to trim them.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  80. #80
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    I trimmed both on a medium Nomad 3.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    For those who bought these, have you all had to trim the lines to fit a medium frame?
    I trimmed the lines for my medium frame. I just followed their instructions I found in Youtube. Didn't require any bleeding.

    If you do need a partial bleed...it's pretty similar to the way Shimano does theirs. Magura uses mineral oil vs DOT in the SRAM brakes.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by OwenM View Post
    Just my very limited experience, but for whatever reason, these pads/rotors are taking longer to bed in than I remember my other brakes taking...Right now, the front does not grab with nearly the same authority as my Guide RS...but if it improves as much as the rear did with a little more use, I think it will be in the Guide ballpark, and more than enough for my use.
    Thought I'd update this. While they did take a little while to get there, the lack of power I felt relative to the Guides is no longer an issue, and the lever feel and modulation that I love hasn't changed. They're working out very well.
    I'm sure there's something "better"(isn't there always?!?), but given the performance for the cost, I would automatically buy another set today if I suddenly found myself in need of another brakeset. I'm not an expert on brakes, or any other component, but appreciate things that work when and how I want them to, so would not say that if I were anything less than satisfied with them.

    btw, that is still with the Storm HC rotors. I have yet to try the SL.2s.

  83. #83
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    I had a bitch of a time bleeding these. Finally needed a mechanic to get the job done.

    Took several long rides and descents to bed them in. Shimano's bed in very quickly....minutes or that is my experience.

    After 100mi of riding they seem to be firing on all cylinders, but I really can't decide if I like them or not. I had a good deal of fade on Whole Enchilada in sections. Water cooled them down.

    They are so different than my Shimano XT that I just can't tell if I am getting the feel I want. The front is powerful. The rear most definitely not powerful which I guess is the point according to reviews. I have to relearn how to brake which is OK, but still not sold on these yet.
    Last edited by WoodstockMTB; 05-18-2018 at 09:58 AM.

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    I just built up my new rig (Patrol Carbon) with Trail Sports, and I'm really disappointed. The power is really lacking. I had XT's on my last bike and I really enjoyed their power, but I wanted to try something a little different for a change. Are the stock pads just really bad? I'm totally confused. I thought these were suppose to have some serious stopping power. To put it more simply, my XT front brake had enough power to toss me over the bars if I wasn't careful, and the rear could stop the wheel instantly and skid even on pavement (not that I'm doing this, just using as an example). Also, I have them bled really well and I did the bed-in procedure. The lever action feels great though, actually. Plus, you can definitely tell the difference between a bad bleed job and a good one. I really feel like its the over-all power and pads maybe?

    Is there something I'm missing? Help

  85. #85
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    I'm 225lbs and get all the power I need from these brakes outside of dh. Try pulling the pads and rubbing them on some fine sand paper....(optional ) I would first put them in a small cup with some ISO alcohol and light em and let them fire (safely) til they fizzle out. It has worked for me when power was lacking...... That or Truckerco now has the pads on eBay for a good price.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by meSSican View Post
    I'm 225lbs and get all the power I need from these brakes outside of dh. Try pulling the pads and rubbing them on some fine sand paper....(optional ) I would first put them in a small cup with some ISO alcohol and light em and let them fire (safely) til they fizzle out. It has worked for me when power was lacking...... That or Truckerco now has the pads on eBay for a good price.
    Already ordered some Truckerco pads for the rear yesterday for 10 bucks off Amazon to try I've done the sand paper technique as well. Also, Magura pads are organic, and as far as I've heard using the flame on them is bad? I've done that successfully twice with Shimano metallic's so I know what you are talking about though.

  87. #87
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    I've done the fire on a previous pair of mt5 and trail sports as they were loud and under powered...... I think I got mineral oil on the pads.... Trick worked. I'm on my 2nd set of mt trail sports and mt5 on my Capra and won't ride anything else. Had Saint, xt, xtr, guide, Formula, and Hope v4.....Maguras are my favorite all around. Hope v4 are very powerful but I don't like the excess lever pull compared to maguras.

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    Alright, I'll give that a try then. Thanks! Your positive experience is what I expect of them, so something must be definitely wrong.

  89. #89
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    The pads that the MTTS come with aren't the most aggressive. They come with the "Performance" compound. They also have a Race compound and apparently a Comfort one too. The Performance fronts are held in by the magnets alone. The Race pads are held in with fixing bolts. I might give the Truckerco pads a try. I used them before and for the cost..they work pretty well.

    I'm 145lbs and they work great for me. I like the feel of the brakes over the Servo Wave on Shimano brakes. The MTTS feel like I have more control at the braking limit...before lockup. My GF has ZEE on her bike...I'll brake hard before taking off to remind me of which set of brakes I'm on. As for brute braking power...the Shimano dual piston has it down.

  90. #90
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    They seemed like they had a bit of a longer bed-in time than other brakes I've had. No need to use fire or sandpaper. Just bed them in properly.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  91. #91
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    So I tried a more aggressive ISO + fire method and then went with a different grit sandpaper paper, a quick few hard stops to bed them in, an wow! Rear brake is behaving much better. Although a trail run will be more telling, it was easily locking up the rear wheel. Maybe they were contaminated? They sure didn't look like it. When I glazed my Shimano ice techs last, it was pretty obvious. Maybe the heat helped bed them in better? Eitherway, thanks for the tip

    @RS VR6 yeah I looked at their other pad options but their oem pads are a little spendy compared to after market ones. I'll for sure be giving the Truckerco a try for 10 bucks before oem haha!

    @coleam originally I did above 40 hard slow downs on a slight incline to get them bedded. My usual technique. I could tell when they were done but they still didn't feel great. Maybe it just takes much more than I'm used to for Shimano?

  92. #92
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    Yeah, they take more time than Shimano. I did the 40 stops thing as well, and it still took a few rides for them to get up to full power

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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    Hey guys, quick update:

    Good:
    Brakes are working fantastic! Lever feel is really comfy and they're just grabby enough like my previous XTs. There was a some fade in the rear 2 pot on a 180mm rotor on a long 20+ mile shuttle ride. I put a 203 in the back and it's been fine since. I'm also still on the stock organic pads.

    Bad:
    Front brake (4 pot) is making a TERRIBLE squealing/high pitch squeaking sound. It's not the normal loud brake sound common with other brands or metallic pads. It's much more like a high pitched fake-mouse squeaking sound...,if that makes sense. I read somewhere because the stock 4pot pads are just sitting in there with magnets and not attached with a screw like the rears, and so it sometimes makes squeaking noises? On the plus side, they work! Really really well hahaha!

    Any advice?

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    Krau,
    Are you using 4 or 2 pads for the front?

  95. #95
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    Sounds like pad contamination to me. Try the rubbing alcohol + fire trick to try and burn off the impurities. Otherwise, just throw on the 4-pad set instead of the stock pair. Those ones get bolted in place, so you know they're not moving.

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    @ttchad
    Stock 2 pad

    @Andeh
    I'll check, but I recently did this when I first got them a few weeks ago since they seemed contaminated out of the box or something.

    Is there anything that could contaminate pads that isn't brake fluid? I live in dry/dusty California so getting wet wouldn't be the culprit.

  97. #97
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    I'm in NorCal also. I had 1 set of pads that I got something on that really shrieked pretty bad, and the problem went away as soon as I replaced them. They will squeak for a bit after they get wet (I had a couple rain rides this winter) but that dies out really quick as soon as the heat dissipates the moisture.

    I've managed to contaminate pads before with chain lube, and also with some frame protector spray. Since then I've just used Muc-Off for cleaning and had no issues.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by krau View Post
    @ttchadIs there anything that could contaminate pads that isn't brake fluid? I live in dry/dusty California so getting wet wouldn't be the culprit.
    Anything oily (and possibly other chemicals) can contaminate brake pads...even the small amount of oil on your fingers!

  99. #99
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    Posts
    251
    Hey KlainmeisterÖ.after a year now, what do you think of those original pads?
    Jude

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    25
    Update on not so good brake experience:

    The Bad:
    Front brake is still making high pitched squeaking sound and I have a video of it. It doesn't sound like the normal brake squeal from glazed pads or overheating. I've tried all the techniques discussed above twice, re-bed etc, and they do this no matter what. Is this just how the stock pads are? I'm in disbelief and disappointed It's louder in person.
    Video: https://youtu.be/reMXZGxX5aw


    The Good:
    Truckerco rear pad works great. A little noisy very rarely, but the normal metallic compound noisy. Not bad enough consider it an issue. Power is solid. I just got done with my first longer DH run with this pad specifically, and my 203 (Rear) rotor has burning discoloration on it now. See picture below. Its 90F outside here, so I'm not surprised things are heating up but still...I have never seen anything like this with my previous XTs. I checked the pads to see if they were glazed and they look fine. A little dark, but not glazed and shiny. I noticed no fade while on the run either, they honestly work great. Is this normal? Should I ignore it?
    Rotor burn: https://i.imgur.com/cNm87Js.jpg
    Truckerco pad: https://i.imgur.com/S1h6Tph.jpg


    thanks for all the help guys

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