Magura Marta SL Setup/Bleeding Tips
I will be getting my marta SL's soon and I was wondering if anyone had some tips to offer on setup and/or bleeding. I have some good experience with bleeding the XTRs so I know what i am doing for the most part, but installation is another thing. I'd appreciate any help.
Have you checked the Magura Cult Website?
It's the most comprehensive site for all info relating to Maggies including installation & bleeding.
Life....the original terminal illness
didn't know about it. i'll check it out. thanks!
In addition to the Cult's bleeding tips, here's what I did with my 2 sets of Marta SLs:
Originally Posted by Kaparzo
As brakes go, the Martas rank amongst the easiest to bleed. Over the years, I've bled: Hope C2s, Hope Minis, Hope Mono Minis, Formula B4s, Formula B4 SLs, Formula B4 SL+ and Shimano XTR/XTs.
Loosen master-cylinder and rotate until the reservoir is level. Tighten the master-cylinder.
Position the rear caliper so the hose connection is at the highest point...you might find that using only 1 of the caliper's bolts will allow you to tighten the caliper in the required position.
Fill syringe with Magura blood, remove caliper bleed screw and attach the syringe hose. Magura recommends using the small tiny o-ring, but most here have found that NOT using the o-ring creates a better bleed. When I used the o-ring, it created thousands of tiny air bubbles...when it was not used, there were no air bubbles.
Gently loosen the tiny Torx screws in the master-cylinder reservoir cap, remove cap and rubber membrane and set aside.
Now, with the system open, gently push the fluid from the caliper to the master-cylinder. You'll need a second syringe/hose to extract excess fluid from the reservoir. Keep gently pushing until the caliper's syringe is nearly empty.
Now, reverse the process. Gently pull the fluid back into the caliper's syringe while adding the excess fluid back into the master-cylinder's reservoir from the second syringe. Make sure to keep the reservoir fluid level topped-off, otherwise, you'll be starting over.
I repeated this push/pull technique a couple of times (3-4) until no air was seen leaving the system at the caliper or entering the reservoir. I finish by nearly emptying the caliper's syringe....leave about 1/5 full.
Slowly pull the lever (15-20 times) to push fluid back down the caliper. Make sure to keep the reservoir fluid level topped-off, otherwise, you'll be starting over. Check for air bubbles at the caliper. If no air is seen, move onto the next step. If air is seen, consider starting the bleed again.
Gently put the reservoir membrane and cap back on, but, do not tighten the tiny Torx screws yet...just hold the reservoir and cap down with gentle thumb pressure. Now, gently press the caliper's syringe to expel any air bubbles that may have been trapped in the reservoir under the membrane. You'll want to have a wrag handy because the excess fluid will be dripping out of the reservoir.
While still pushing on the syringe to maintain pressure, I tightened-up the reservoir screws....man, those screws are tiny!
Lastly, remove the caliper bolts and re-installed the pads and positioned the caliper on the rear rotor and gently push the caliper's syringe. Because the caliper is floating, it will self-center and will fill the system to it's max capacity. Once done, remove the caliper and pads, and then remove the bleed syringe and re-install the bleed valve.
Once the system is completely closed (and any excess fluid on the caliper is cleaned-up), re-install the pads and position the caliper over the rotor....perfect alignment!
Now, the ultimate test....grab a handful of lever and give a nice tug....wow! Beautifully crisp and solid with perfect engagement point!
The front brake installation was a mirror of the rear and resulted in a similarly feeling brake.
If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask!
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