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  1. #1
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    Magura Louise FR Power (180/160)

    Hi, im not to sure where to start really but here goes my first thread! I bought my 05 Louise FR brakes about 18month ago, they were fitted to my Marin Northside Trail which had Marzocchi MX Comps on(At this point the brakes were great), recently I sold the frame and forks and bought an Azonic Evolution frame swapped everything over from the Marin and put some 05 Pike SL's on. Since then ive not been able to get the brakes right, the rear squeals, warbles and has a real on off feel with too much power, the front has hardly any power at all. Ive had the disc mounts faced on the frame and the mounts on the fork faced more to bring the caliper away from the wheel so I could get the caliper over the centre of the disc. Ive searched the forums to no avail as it seems everyone else just has the brake squeal problem! Im pretty sure ive shimmed the calipers up ok but ive checked that many times I just dont know anymore! Any suggestions would be most appreciated!

  2. #2
    No, that's not phonetic
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    Pull the pads out and check the friction material. It likely wore based on the interface with the rotors in a way particular to how your old frame mated these together. Lightly sand the faces of the pads to make them pretty flat and remove any glazing. Reinstall them (maybe trade the pads between the front and rear calipers to equalize wear) and then you will need to bed them in again (a number of very hard, fast, full-power stops). It may take a few rides to bring them up to full power again. If the front never recovers, the pads may have gotten contaminated during the swaps.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  3. #3
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    Ok i'll give that a try and see if that solves the problem. Would there be any point in re-bleeding the brakes as well to see if that helps? Also with regards to pad choice has anyone used Goodridge pads with Magura's? Ive got them in my Hayes 9's on my other bike and they feel so much better than the original pads, as the rear Louise feels so powerfull, bordering on uncontrolable I was wondering whether a change of pad compound might help?

  4. #4
    Do It Yourself
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    Quote Originally Posted by oli h
    Would there be any point in re-bleeding the brakes as well to see if that helps?
    Unless the lever pull is mushy, a bleed isn't going to help. I agree that you probably have an issue with the front pads. My rear warbled a bit when new but has since worn down and is quite as a church mouse. You could try to file the edges of the rotor. And definitely sand down or replace the pads and rebed.

    With respect to the Goodridge pads, as long as you don't use metal sintered pads, you'll probably be okay to experiment. The sintered you may cook your seals (mmm, yummy). No idea on the results though. However, the stock pads should have plenty of power for their intended use.
    Long Live Long Rides

  5. #5
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    Right, ive swapped the pads round, re-shimed both calipers and the front now has power! The rear was pretty silent all yesterday too! Result....almost, one thing I did notice was when I pull the rear brake lever at the start of depressing it, it makes a little 'pop' noise? Plus both levers come very close to the bars when on full and the rear still has that on/off feel?

  6. #6
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    sounds like it's time for a bleed based on the lever pull action.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtn_man2
    sounds like it's time for a bleed based on the lever pull action.

    Ditto. Unless your pads are very worn, your levers shouldn't get that close to the bar. If your pad wear indicators aren't worn, it's time for a bleed. That would explain the on/off feeling as well if you're initially compressing air which compresses quickly then trying to compress the brake fluid which gives much less resistance. This could easily give you a grabby feel.

    But that pop noise doesn't sound right though. Maybe try the "reanimation" for the seals to see if that helps. Basically remove the pads and spray off the piston area (Clean Streak or WD-40 and maybe give a little scrub with a toothbrush if you can get it in there). Then squeeze the pistons back, lube around the piston seal with a bit of Magura Blood, and CAREFULLY pump the piston out (use the brake block if you need to). Lather rinse repeat until it's smooth. This will give you an up close and personal view to see if anything else is wrong.
    Long Live Long Rides

  8. #8
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    The pads have plenty of life left in them. I'll try the reanimation part first to try and solve the popping sound though the pop is actually coming from the brake lever end. One thing im not to sure about is how to attach the catch bottle tube to the reservoir? Ive only ever bled Hayes 9's and they have the attachment for the tube on top. Any tips for attaching it?

  9. #9
    "El Whatever"
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    Quote Originally Posted by oli h
    The pads have plenty of life left in them. I'll try the reanimation part first to try and solve the popping sound though the pop is actually coming from the brake lever end. One thing im not to sure about is how to attach the catch bottle tube to the reservoir? Ive only ever bled Hayes 9's and they have the attachment for the tube on top. Any tips for attaching it?
    The instructions are on Magura site... http://www.magura.com/english/frameset/frameset.htm

    However, you should need just a syringe to suck up any overflowing oil. If you're unsure how to do it with the bottle, go with a second syring to suck up the overflowing oil.
    Check my Site

  10. #10
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    Brakes all sorted, bled rear, swapped quick release lever over to derailler side and hey presto no squeeling and I can feather them or lock them up! Cheers for all the replys!

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