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  1. #1
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    Magura Louise FR help

    I bleed my front brake and it feels great, but if I go for an hour ride it starts to feel mushy. I cannot find any leaks in the system and the oil has been completely changed out in case of the possibility of contamination. I really don't think that it is a bleed problem as I have done the rear brake a few times as well and it turns out great every time. I just don't know what’s up. What do you guys think keep bleeding them? What parts should I start replacing if I can't find the leak?

  2. #2
    Bodhisattva
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    AK,

    Have you followed the steps on the Cult site carefully?

    I know you don't want to hear this, but you most likely still have air in the line that's becoming intermittently trapped and that's why the brake feels good at times & mushy at others.

    Be sure to do the reverse bleed via the lever, set the pads on the rotor to ensure optimal filling and hold down the unscrewed reservoir cap while pushing fluid through to purge any hidden bubbles trapped under the membrane.

    I don't know if it matters but I also make sure the lever is fully extended before bleeding by backing out the lever set screw.
    Life....the original terminal illness

  3. #3
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    I have read all of the stuff on the cult website. Its how I got the my first bleed job done about a year ago I will give it another try tonight. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    I've had the same issues with the Louise FR 04's the only way I could get them to work is to follow the recommendations on the magura site. The first thing I noticed that helped a lot is I misread the instrucitons and though tube should be verticle not horizontal. However even after that and repeated bleeding I could not get it where I liked it.

    The only thing that worked for me was to do the normal bleeding, then leave the lever horizontal, take the cap off, and work the lever and add fluid as needed I got a lot of small air bubbles out that way, tapping on the lines and working the lever, then I'd let it sit overnight and do the same thing the next day, when that was done I'd top it off with fluid and put the cap back on.

    That is the only way I could get a good lever feel with them. I bet I bled them 25 times, between two bikes before I started doing that trick. I was about ready to toss them away, and I've ran magura hydraulic rim brakes exclusively on all my bikes for 5+ years, and I've never ever seen anything such a pain to bleed.

  5. #5
    Bodhisattva
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    Todd,

    I'm not sure if I'm reading you correctly and please pardon me if I misunderstand.

    You say you've read the cult instructions and followed them yet you imply that the reverse bleed was your idea. Jimi told me about the reverse bleed two years ago and I've been passing that info along ever since. Far as I know the reverse bleed info has been up on the Cult site for quite sometime and I've had great success purging any stray bubbles in the line by doing in that way. Same guys for setting the pads on the rotor and forcing the fluid up through an unscrewed reservoir cap.
    Life....the original terminal illness

  6. #6
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    Yeah I should have explained better.

    I'm not talking about reverse bleeding, after I finish the entire magura cult listed steps, including the reverse bleeding, and all hoses/syringes etc. are disconnected. So at this point the bike is all "done" you could take it out and ride it. So this would start after step 11 on the cult's page.

    I then take off the reservoir cover, and tap lines and work the brake lever to let any air bubbles work their way up to the highest point (the reservoir) along with tapping the lines and I usually put the bike in a stand to help the angle of the lines to the lever. There's still nothing attached to the brakes now, no syringe etc.

    I can usually get little bubbles out of this process for awhile, work the lever a little, let it sit a few minutes, repeat, then I'll leave it overnight and do it one last time, top of the reservoir and put the cover back on.

    Sorry for the confusion I wasn't trying to make it look like I invented the reverse bleeding tip

  7. #7
    Bodhisattva
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    Gotcha.

    Only problem I see with that technique is that you run the risk of introducing air under the reservoir cover when you replace it. And since the syringe is disconnected, you can't go back and try to flush them out.

    Whenever I bleed, I bleed forward and reverse a minimum of 3 times, then purge air under the cover, set the pads, etc.... This may accomplish the same end result as your technique.

    It's all good...
    Life....the original terminal illness

  8. #8
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    Yep, I certainly agree that if you get some air in there, there's no way to get it out, though I think with the cap design if you fill the reservoir up it's probably a small chance.

    None the less, I wouldn't recommend trying it unless nothing else has worked, for me it was the only way I could get the lever feel I wanted, there might be some flaw in my interpretation of the cult instructions and I'm making a mistake somewhere along the way, because it seems to work for most everyone.

    Todd

  9. #9
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    I bled them again and the front brake seems to be doing better. I have been on one ride so far and no problems. Hopefully they will work well tonight too. I do have one question though, when you pull the lever should both pads move toward the rotor and even amount? Because it seems that the piston closest to the hub is about 3 times more active than the other one.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBiker
    I bled them again and the front brake seems to be doing better. I have been on one ride so far and no problems. Hopefully they will work well tonight too. I do have one question though, when you pull the lever should both pads move toward the rotor and even amount? Because it seems that the piston closest to the hub is about 3 times more active than the other one.
    Funny thing about hydraulics, the piston that is the loosest will move first then the other will follow, sometimes after the first pad makes contact with the rotor. This was a common issue with the Magura rim brakes. The only way to solve that problem was to run line splitters so that both cylinders got fluid at "almost" the exact same time. But we can't run splitters on disc brakes (at least I don't think so) so the pads most likely won't ever move at the same time unless they are both lubed perfectly, that probably will never happen since we ride in dirt, though I may get one of those disc covers to see if that helps with dirt and mud (you know like they run on motocross bikes).
    Pat T.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToddM
    There might be some flaw in my interpretation of the cult instructions and I'm making a mistake somewhere along the way, because it seems to work for most everyone.

    Todd
    Probably not, it took quite a few tries with my front Gustav the first time I bled them, not sure why but air just kept coming out. My Louise FR's bled fine the first time no problems, same bike so the lines were the same length.... really weird. I think sometimes we just get a system that wants to hold air in it. I helped a buddy bled his Hayes, took us all day..... they would just not bled right. Next day first try they were fine.... farggin bikes LOL
    Pat T.

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